Y/Project S/S 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s

Scene setting: Creative director Glenn Martens is a whizz when it comes to historical references, and his collections have brought the world of bygone couture into the cool of the Zeitgeist. For S/S 2020, the designer took an underground excursion into the cool, cavernous arches beneath the Pont Alexandre III Bridge, a Beaux-Arts style design, festooned with nymphs and winged horses, designed by Joseph Cassien-Bernard and Gaston Cousin between 1896 and 1900. ‘It was all about opulence and the Belle Époque,’ Martens said backstage. His show was accompanied by Johann Strauss’s The Blue Danube, which was distorted and fast-forwarded as if played on a malfunctioning tape machine, shrill, squeaky and barely audible. ‘It’s like 19th century Paris on acid’, he explained.
Mood board: Marten’s aesthetic acid trip was a fusion of genres and styles, that sublimely demonstrated his street-meets-couture sensibility. ‘I like a bit of flamboyance’ he added. For spring, this meant deconstructed sport knitwear, worn ruched, pulled and turned upside down, denim streaked with gold paint, seductive 30s gowns with cleavage revealing draping and oversized 80s tailoring. Medieval silhouettes, mini skirts and mind-bending Art deco prints, were all part of his on-acid opulence.
Finishing touches: XL accessories are all part of Y/Project’s aesthetic agenda. For spring, earrings were enormous and resembled heart-shaped springs, vintagey leather handbags were long like musical instrument cases and gold heels wrapped around the ankle like a Slinky.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Japan in Milan! See the highlights of Japanese design at Milan Design Week 2025
At Milan Design Week 2025 Japanese craftsmanship was a front runner with an array of projects in the spotlight. Here are some of our highlights
By Danielle Demetriou
-
Tour the best contemporary tea houses around the world
Celebrate the world’s most unique tea houses, from Melbourne to Stockholm, with a new book by Wallpaper’s Léa Teuscher
By Léa Teuscher
-
‘Humour is foundational’: artist Ella Kruglyanskaya on painting as a ‘highly questionable’ pursuit
Ella Kruglyanskaya’s exhibition, ‘Shadows’ at Thomas Dane Gallery, is the first in a series of three this year, with openings in Basel and New York to follow
By Hannah Silver
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to Hermès
In this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
By Laura Hawkins
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins