A balloon-shaped bra. A biker glove. A gravity-defying heel. Surreal and sublime, here are the 11 things Wallpaper* wants most from the AW 2022 collections.
Head on: Raf Simons (above left)
Inspired by the attire seen in Pieter Bruegel the Elder’s 1559 painting Netherlandish Proverbs, Raf Simons’ collection included a series of hats created with master milliner Stephen Jones – from fuzzy helmets to a cap that fell away into a cloak.
New utility: Prada (above right)
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons proposed a new menswear uniform at Prada, injecting utilitarian garments with glamour. Case in point, a shirt and trousers (reminiscent of a boiler suit) rendered in high-gloss leather, uniting function and elegance.
Colour spectrum: Dries Van Noten
Fashion designer Dries Van Noten has channelled his mastery of colour into a new beauty collection, comprising lipsticks in 30 brazen shades of neon magenta, pumpkin orange and an ultra-saturated bruised raspberry called Latin Carmine. Mary Cleary
Lipstick, £30, by Dries Van Noten
Dye job: Celine
Celine’s Triomphe monogram has become a defining symbol of Hedi Slimane’s tenure at the Parisian house. Here, it adorns the latest iteration of the ‘Triomphe’ handbag, reimagined this season in fluffy shearling, tie-dyed to unique effect.
Bag, £2,200, by Celine
Tipping point: Alaïa
Feats of engineering and technical accomplishment have long defined the house of Alaïa. Creative director Pieter Mulier continues this legacy, encapsulated here in a pair of gravity-defying pumps with a slanted heel, screwed on Meccano-style.
Shoes, £1,100, by Alaïa
Head to toe: Salvatore Ferragamo
Salvatore Ferragamo’s menswear collection offered top-to-toe dressing with lithe all-in-ones, and sweaters with hoods. Worn together, they provide a streamlined layer of protection against the elements, preparation for the change in seasons.
Sweater, £720; all-in-one, £1,085, both by Salvatore Ferragamo
In season: Bottega Veneta
Matthieu Blazy’s debut as Bottega Veneta’s creative director was defined by his luxurious riffs on the quotidian, alongside playful moments, including this sequinned dress, recalling a kiwi fruit, sliced in half and ready to eat.
Dress; boots, both price on request, by Bottega Veneta
Below zero: Hermès
This sheepskin-lined parka by Hermès, designed to envelop its wearer through the winter months, is part of a menswear collection that saw creative director Véronique Nichanian encapsulate moments of ‘joy and softness, effervescence and elegance’.
Parka in Frost Blue, £18,000, by Hermès
Petrol head: Dior
Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri gave the opera glove a high-octane update this season, recalling motocross riders and video-game racers with an elbow-length motorcycle glove in vivid panels of coloured leather.
Gloves, £1,790, by Dior
Blow up: Loewe
‘A balloon creates tension, it will pop,’ says Jonathan Anderson of the Perspex balloons that provided a surreal flourish to his Loewe collection, whether squeezed between sandal straps or forming this bra, sitting atop a balloon-printed gown.
Dress, £3,250; bra, £895, both by Loewe
Call of the wild: Boucheron
Boucheron’s creative director Claire Choisne looked to the natural world for high jewellery collection Ailleurs – the ‘Feuillage Diamant’ cuff features aluminium strands woven around a green tourmaline as if they were blades of grass. Hannah Silver
Cuff, price on request, by Boucheron
INFORMATION
A version of this article appears in the September 2022 issue of Wallpaper*, available in print, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today!
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