Back in 1989, Issey Miyake began making revolutionary, lightweight, wrinkle-free pleated fabrics by feeding cut and sewn designs through a heat press. The innovative Japanese brand's fabric manipulations continue to inspire, forming a strong presence on this season's catwalks. At Jil Sander, the precise, narrow pleats of shirt-dresses were softened by voluminous cocoon sleeves, while at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson finished pleated dresses in sandy hues with shawl-fringed graphic ruffles, and Consuelo Castiglioni's final show for Marni updated chiton-like shapes with colour-blocked pastels and asymmetric sleeves. Meanwhile, celebrating its own wrinkle-free heritage, Issey Miyake's Yoshiyuki Miyamae created accordion-pleated jackets, cut and pasted to form sculpted concentric shapes.
As originally featured in the March 2017 issue of Wallpaper* (W*216)
Left, jacket, £1,620, by Issey Miyake. Right, dress, £1,675; shoes, £695, both by Loewe. 'PK80' daybed in walnut leather, €15,584, by Poul Kjærholm, for Fritz Hansen
INFORMATION
The newspaper section of our March issue was shot at the Uphill House, designed by Robert Dye Architects. See more of the house here
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Margot Robbie, Marina Abramović and a 15-step Korean scalp treatment: the most-read Wallpaper* beauty stories of 2024The news of Margot Robbie becoming the face of Chanel No.5 and an illustrated guide to a 15-step Korean scalp treatment are just two of the most-read Wallpaper* beauty stories from the year gone by
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These illuminating fashion interviews tell the story of style in 2024Selected by fashion features editor Jack Moss from the pages of Wallpaper*, these interviews tell the stories behind the designers who have shaped 2024 – from Kim Jones to Tory Burch, Willy Chavarria to Martine Rose
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Vans’ West End store turns skatepark, with a 200 sq m travertine rampPart store, part community hub, Vans West End in London ramps up its skateboarding credentials with a design by Andrea Caputo Studio
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Loafer bags to sock shoes, 2024 was all about the mashed-up accessoryWallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss reflects on the rise of the surreal hybrid accessory in 2024, a trend which reflects the disorientating nature of contemporary living – where nothing is quite what it seems
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Wallpaper* beauty editor Hannah Tindle’s eclectic gift guideWallpaper* beauty editor Hannah Tindle ideas for festive gifting include a scalp-stimulating hairbrush, a mid-century ‘party’ ashtray and an archival poster for Stanley Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut
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20 years of Dover Street Market’s transporting in-store installations, from giant elephants to soft toysAs Dover Street Market, Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe’s radical London concept store, celebrates its 20th anniversary, we look back at ten of its most colourful installations, crafted alongside Simone Rocha, Jonathan Anderson, Martin Parr and more
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Alaïa’s secret new London café and bookstore is inspired by the art of hostingHoused on the third floor of Alaïa’s London flagship, the intimate space – inspired by Azzedine Alaïa’s famed hospitality – includes a Violet Cakes bakery and a bookstore by Claire de Rouen
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‘Music is in the DNA of the brand’: AV Vattev on creating this year’s loudest accessoryRising London designer AV Vattev – who has recently outfitted Charli XCX and Troye Sivan for their viral ‘Sweat’ tour – talks about the influence of music on his ‘bold and unapologetic’ collections
