Juicy Couture open London flagship
In dark times we could all do with a bit of colour to brighten things up. And colour, together with a lot of tracksuits, has arrived in London’s Bruton Street in the form of a new European flagship for the LA brand Juicy Couture.
Above, Phillip Johnson, director of store design. Click here to see more of the new London store
Juicy, as it’s fondly referred to by those in the know, is a brand that wears its heart on its sleeve. It’s fun, it’s ‘cool’ in an LA-way and it’s a difficult thing to pull off with class; veer too far in one direction and it becomes saccharine kitsch – too far in the other and it loses its aspirational value for its core audience.
The new London store is testament to how well the brand pulls off this tightrope teetering and that’s thanks to Phillip Johnson, director of store design and visual services. Formerly the Creative Director of Barneys in LA, Johnson’s been with the label for three and a half years and has in that time created a retail identity that brings the clothes to life.
'I went through Pam and Gela’s (Juicy’s founders) scrapbooks to find out who they are,' explains Johnson, 'in there I found a lot of anglomania and eccentricity – a fusion of art, fashion, music and travel and it’s this mix that I wanted to recreate in the stores.'
The London store was a challenge to say the least. At number 26, next door to the Hartnell Building ('did you know the Queen was born there?' Johnson asked) it had previously been a ‘white’ gallery – all sterile plasterboard with no original features on show. Many brands might have rejoiced, inserted a few rails and opened their doors soon after, but Johnson chipped away and uncovered a wealth of original 18th century decoration, still intact.
Filigree plaster cornicing, a painted wooden ceiling and a wrought iron staircase were some of the more significant things that were hidden and unsurprisingly British Heritage stepped in and listed the building. So began a painstaking back-and-forth process of enhancing the existing elements, whilst remaining true to the Juicy aesthetic.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
'The process was a bit like an education for me actually,' says Johnson. 'It took 18 months. We cast interior mouldings for the centre of the ceiling from the Hartnell Building next door. I wanted to lay a herringbone parquet floor but British Heritage told me it was French and not faithful to the original decoration of the time, so we laid a rectangular parquet instead, which is what would have been there in 1760.' So successful was he in his quest to keep the detail in line with the original décor British Heritage have now added his additions to the listing of the building.
Of course he didn’t stop there. 'The look we wanted to create was similar to what you’d expect a rock star and his girlfriend to do to a Georgian townhouse if they lived there.' This means taxidermy with make-up and jewellery, mannequins wearing Juicy clothing and armour, custom-made toile wallpaper with motifs of surfboards and palm trees inserted, almost subtly.
Though the colours are brash, intentionally of course, it’s the detail that adds an element of sophistication. 'It’s shopping as entertainment,' explains Johnson, and who can deny that a bit of technicolor entertainment isn’t a welcome addition on the retail scene right now?
ADDRESS
27 Bruton Street
London W1
Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
-
The most whimsical hotel Christmas trees around the world
We round up the best hotel Christmas tree collaborations of the year, from an abstract take in Madrid to a heritage-rooted installation in Amsterdam
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Stone dials are making a comeback: here are the watches doing it best
Watches with hard stone dials are enjoying a surge in popularity
By Chris Hall Published
-
These illuminating fashion interviews tell the story of style in 2024
Selected by fashion features editor Jack Moss from the pages of Wallpaper*, these interviews tell the stories behind the designers who have shaped 2024 – from Kim Jones to Tory Burch, Willy Chavarria to Martine Rose
By Jack Moss Published