The trend for in-your-face bras and OTT branding has given simple nude underwear a rather bad rep of late. However, just as outerwear has embraced a more minimalist approach, lingerie has also undergone a similar undressing. Superfluous frills, trims, bows and lace have been shunned by a new breed of contemporary labels, whose combined focus lies in paring-back the intimates market.
After cutting her teeth at Calvin Klein and Narciso Rodriguez in New York, Jo Rossell founded her London-based line in 2015 with the intention of producing modern, underwire-free cotton and silk underwear. Her approach is dominated by clever panelling for a contoured fit, rather than wires and synthetic elastane. ‘The natural stretch cotton I use is more commonly used in ready-to-wear than lingerie,’ she explains. ‘Combined with a geometric cut and construction, this offers the same amount of support as a conventional underwire bra, giving the wearer a sense of freedom.’
Also following suit is fellow London label Marieyat, which uses a nostalgic rib to fashion its cool cut-out separates, and Danish brand Baserange, which similarly champion a sporty spin on barely-there bras and briefs.
As originally featured in the November 2016 issue of Wallpaper* (W*212)
’Bra’, £85, by Rossell England
Briefs, £34, by Marieyat
-
All-In is the Paris-based label making full-force fashion for main character dressingPart of our monthly Uprising series, Wallpaper* meets Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø of All-In, the LVMH Prize-nominated label which bases its collections on a riotous cast of characters – real and imagined
-
Maserati joins forces with Giorgetti for a turbo-charged relationshipAnnouncing their marriage during Milan Design Week, the brands unveiled a collection, a car and a long term commitment
-
Through an innovative new training program, Poltrona Frau aims to safeguard Italian craftThe heritage furniture manufacturer is training a new generation of leather artisans
