London Collections: Men A/W 2015 editors picks

3986316068001 Maison Martin Margiela: After a four-year absence from fashion John Galliano took his first bow for Maison Martin Margiela on the final day of London Collections: Men. The new creative director donned the house's trademark white lab coat in a show of solidarity at the presentation of his debut 'Artisanal' collection.

(Image credit: Antonio Camera)

By Jack Moss

last updated 31 October 2022

in Features

**Tom Ford:** After so many seasons of trying to limit his imagery's immediate release Tom Ford provided happy snappers with the best set up possible for his A/W men's presentation

Tiger of Sweden: The synth pop pioneers of the late 1970s inspired Tiger of Sweden's tautly tailored suits — **Tiger of Sweden:** The synth pop pioneers of the late 1970s inspired Tiger of Sweden's tautly tailored suits with their sharp jackets and high-waisted trousers.

Paul Smith: Acrobatic endeavours at Paul Smith showcased the stretch and performance of his 'A Suit To Travel In' line — **Paul Smith:** Acrobatic endeavours at Paul Smith showcased the stretch and performance of his 'A Suit To Travel In' line. A suitable workout indeed

CP Company: The brand's iconic Goggle Jacket was crafted in high performance Micro Key fabric to celebrate its 40th year

CP Company: The brand's iconic Goggle Jacket was crafted in high performance Micro Key fabric to celebrate its 40th year

(Image credit: press)

The English Gentleman Savile Row tailors: The setting of Apsley House transported us back to the heyday of the dapper British gentry. — **The English Gentleman Savile Row tailors**: The setting of Apsley House transported us back to the heyday of the dapper British gentry.

Thom Sweeney: The essential tailored wardrobe on display at the recently opened Thom Sweeney ready-to-wear store on London’s Bruton Place — **Thom Sweeney:** The essential tailored wardrobe on display at the recently opened Thom Sweeney ready-to-wear store on London’s Bruton Place

**JW Anderson:** We were off to planet purple courtesy of JW Anderson's lilac rubber chip covered catwalk

Several: For London label Several’s A/W showing, creative director Graeme Fidler was inspired by Chris Killip’s photographic series ‘Skinningrove’ — **Several:** For London label Several’s A/W showing, creative director Graeme Fidler was inspired by Chris Killip’s photographic series ‘Skinningrove’ - a brief and intimate glimpse into an insular working class community in Britain during the late 1970s and early 1980s

Berthold: The charcoal paper set at Berthold's presentation by Georgina Pragnell turned light into darkness — **Berthold:** The charcoal paper set at Berthold's presentation by Georgina Pragnell turned light into darkness

Agi & Sam: At the tender age of four, Agi started sketching his first clothing collection. These drawings, rediscovered on a trip back to his family home and together with a trip to his old primary school, provided a fresh burst of inspiration for the A/W 2015 collection – even down to the name,'Coolman'. Wanting to have fun with clothes - and Lego - again, bold, primary colours were cut, pasted, patch-worked and splashed onto tailored jackets and trousers that were fitted together with Velcro panels.

Matthew Miller: There was an air of controlled chaos at Matthew Miller — **Matthew Miller:** There was an air of controlled chaos at Matthew Miller, with clashing textures, burnt burgundy and canvas grey, and military MA-1 bomber jacket details fused with tailoring.

Woolmark Prize: New York natives Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osbourne of Public School took home 2014/15 Men's International Woolmark award at London's Somerset House. The duo initially set up Public School with the goal of manufacturing their cutting-edge sportswear entirely in the Big Apple. Their ongoing support of local craftspeople and penchant for ‘finding perfection in imperfection’ has since also earned them 2014's CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year citation

Moschino: The calm before the snowstorm at Moschino's winter wonderland — **Moschino:** The calm before the snowstorm at Moschino's winter wonderland

Joseph: Mark Thomas riffs on the elegantly disheveled weekend wardrobe of the public school gentleman for his third season at Joseph — **Joseph:** Mark Thomas riffs on the elegantly disheveled weekend wardrobe of the public school gentleman for his third season at Joseph

Moschino: Jeremy Scott took us to the ski fields and beyond with his ode to camp alpine après. — **Moschino:** Jeremy Scott took us to the ski fields and beyond with his ode to camp alpine après.

Christopher Shannon: The former Central Saint Martins graduate applied a Pop Art approach to A/W including our highlight — **Christopher Shannon:** The former Central Saint Martins graduate applied a Pop Art approach to A/W including our highlight - puffed Michelin Man-style jackets.

Kilgour: Carlo Brandelli gave the designer sneaker market a run for its sophistication with his grey felted wool trainers — **Kilgour:** Carlo Brandelli gave the designer sneaker market a run for its sophistication with his grey felted wool trainers, built low to the ground to match seamlessly with the hem of his flannel trousers

MAN: Rory Parnell-Mooney chose the humble smock as basis for the Irish-born designer's oversized A/W silhouette. — **MAN:** Rory Parnell-Mooney chose the humble smock as basis for the Irish-born designer's oversized A/W silhouette.

Casely-Hayford: The hooded finale at Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford's A/W offering — **Casely-Hayford:** The hooded finale at Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford's A/W offering

John Lobb: Paula Gerbase’s debut collection for the British book maker honed in on the house’s handmade heritage. Fusing craftsmanship and modernity, Gerbase designed a seamless boot, made from one piece of leather entirely, before updating the house’s signature single buckle – leaving it half open to hint at the house’s bespoke DNA, as another nod to its founder’s handwriting

Christopher Raeburn: The puffer jacket was re-imagined at Christopher Raeburn in inflatable rubber latex. — **Christopher Raeburn:** The puffer jacket was re-imagined at Christopher Raeburn in inflatable rubber latex.

Coach: The tension between utility, functionality and luxury was explored through classics from the great American wardrobe — **Coach:** The tension between utility, functionality and luxury was explored through classics from the great American wardrobe

Topman: The British high street retailer kicked off LC:M with a 1970s homage titled ‘Bombay City Rollers’, which offered up shearling coats, flared jeans, double-breasted tartan suiting, and patchwork boiler suits in its east meets west mixer. Best in show was a degrade wool Peacoat that mimicked a sunset over Mumbai’s Gateway of India monument.

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Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

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