Martine Rose
Initially focusing almost entirely on shirting in her debut S/S 2011 collection, Martine Rose has been building with each season. S/S 2013 feels like it is now a complete line, with a reworking of bleached-out denim in huge volume standing out alongside full neoprene jackets in almost chemically bright colours. Snakeskin vinyl trousers add a touch of Ziggy Stardust to the eclectic references that mix 1990s rock and a Benini sculpture called The Rape of Proserpina with a contrasting dose of the futuristic
Martine Rose
Initially focusing almost entirely on shirting in her debut S/S 2011 collection, Martine Rose has been building with each season. S/S 2013 feels like it is now a complete line, with a reworking of bleached-out denim in huge volume standing out alongside full neoprene jackets in almost chemically bright colours. Snakeskin vinyl trousers add a touch of Ziggy Stardust to the eclectic references that mix 1990s rock and a Benini sculpture called The Rape of Proserpina with a contrasting dose of the futuristic
Oliver Spencer
As ever Oliver Spencer took classic men's pieces and gave them a utilitarian twist in traditional tones contrasted against bolder colours. To be accessible, wearable and well designed are the values at the core of the brand, highlighted by the show's eclectic all-age casting, appealing to a diverse customer
Oliver Spencer
As ever Oliver Spencer took classic men's pieces and gave them a utilitarian twist in traditional tones contrasted against bolder colours. To be accessible, wearable and well designed are the values at the core of the brand, highlighted by the show's eclectic all-age casting, appealing to a diverse customer
Gieves & Hawkes
A longstanding staple of Saville Row, Gieves & Hawkes is not a tailor to rock the boat. Producing suiting, shirts and accessories for over 200 years, subtle updates, as opposed to reinventing the wheel, is more their style. For this season those new twists included seersucker suits in pastels, silk ties in a rainbow of colours and a slightly boxier cut
Hardy Amies
Distinguished tailoring for the discerning gentlemen is where Hardy Amies comes into its own, providing classic dinner suits and tuxedos alongside day suits for the modern dandy. Rounded lapels, detail buttoning and subtle tonal contrast silk ties all appeal to the more left-of-centre British traditionalist. Amongst chandeliers and lavish floral arrangements, the collection sat well in its opulent surroundings of the Hardy Amies Savile Row flagship store
Hardy Amies
Distinguished tailoring for the discerning gentlemen is where Hardy Amies comes into its own, providing classic dinner suits and tuxedos alongside day suits for the modern dandy. Rounded lapels, detail buttoning and subtle tonal contrast silk ties all appeal to the more left-of-centre British traditionalist. Amongst chandeliers and lavish floral arrangements, the collection sat well in its opulent surroundings of the Hardy Amies Savile Row flagship store
Spencer Hart
Nick Hart's Spencer Hart label is one built on the classic foundations of the menswear wardrobe - suiting, polo shirts, a well-cut trouser and a simple, wearable jacket - but at the same time, there is something distinctly nightlife about his aesthetic. Pulling references from a whole host of inspiring British cultural figures, this season was as much 'Saturday night at the disco' as it was 'Sunday afternoon in the pub'
Christopher Shannon
A modern sports aesthetic is the central point to the designs of Christopher Shannon, who looks to Northern Britain and its obsession with casual wear for his references. A softer, more clean-cut direction was evident for S/S 2013 with British folklore and gap year parties used as reference points. The athletic models were made up with flowers on their faces and straw in their hair, as if they had just got back from a perfectly-formed roll in the hay. Alongside his main line, Shannon showed a second season Kickers collaboration with pony skin and suede footwear, and debuted a line of tasseled leather backpacks with Cambridge Satchel Company
Christopher Shannon
A modern sports aesthetic is the central point to the designs of Christopher Shannon, who looks to Northern Britain and its obsession with casual wear for his references. A softer, more clean-cut direction was evident for S/S 2013 with British folklore and gap year parties used as reference points. The athletic models were made up with flowers on their faces and straw in their hair, as if they had just got back from a perfectly-formed roll in the hay. Alongside his main line, Shannon showed a second season Kickers collaboration with pony skin and suede footwear, and debuted a line of tasseled leather backpacks with Cambridge Satchel Company
E-Tautz
Taking a younger, fresher and more colourful approach to classicism, Patrick Grant's E. Tautz came through with a contrasting collection setting British youth culture against wardrobe staples. It was a showing of long-sleeved printed T-Shirts and fishing hats in almost neon pops alongside trenches, suiting and knitwear - which oozed as much of 'acid house' as it did traditional tailoring
James Long
James Long's super modern and super confident man was in full effect for his new collection. A mixture of glamorous nightlife stylistic references, combined with futuristic ideas, meant loose freestyle geometric patterns on sleeveless shirts, bold tartans, statement trousers and, of course, his signature deconstructed knitwear. This was not a collection for the faint hearted, but why should it be?
James Long
James Long's super modern and super confident man was in full effect for his new collection. A mixture of glamorous nightlife stylistic references, combined with futuristic ideas, meant loose freestyle geometric patterns on sleeveless shirts, bold tartans, statement trousers and, of course, his signature deconstructed knitwear. This was not a collection for the faint hearted, but why should it be?
Katie Eary
For one of the heavily anticipated shows of the season, Katie Eary looked again to her 'glamorous streetwear', this time taking in references from Californian skate culture. Plenty of shimmering gold and opulent patterning gave a rococo twist and made her lo-fi inspirations seriously luxurious
MAN: Agi & Sam
The new collection was all about visiting your grandma and being forced to watch 'boring' detective TV programmes, according to the duo. A wide variety of models - from young to old, handsome to striking - were all emblazoned with fetching Magnum PI moustaches. Known for their adaptation of print, this season Agi & Sam developed the motifs from upholstery fabrics, which were then used throughout on trenches, suits, slim-leg trousers and sportier silhouettes. Even socks - a collaboration with Tabio - featured matching upholstery prints
MAN: Agi & Sam
The new collection was all about visiting your grandma and being forced to watch 'boring' detective TV programmes, according to the duo. A wide variety of models - from young to old, handsome to striking - were all emblazoned with fetching Magnum PI moustaches. Known for their adaptation of print, this season Agi & Sam developed the motifs from upholstery fabrics, which were then used throughout on trenches, suits, slim-leg trousers and sportier silhouettes. Even socks - a collaboration with Tabio - featured matching upholstery prints
MAN: Astrid Andersen
A completely body-obsessed man forms the core of Astrid Anderson's story, who sees the gym as a modern-day replacement for the church and religion. The muscular models exuded a sense of confidence as they walked the runway - even while they were wearing the likes of a bright yellow lace bomber jacket or faux-fur panel sheer mesh vests
MAN: Astrid Andersen
A completely body-obsessed man forms the core of Astrid Anderson's story, who sees the gym as a modern-day replacement for the church and religion. The muscular models exuded a sense of confidence as they walked the runway - even while they were wearing the likes of a bright yellow lace bomber jacket or faux-fur panel sheer mesh vests
MAN: Shaun Samson
After a series of tough streetwear and street culture-inspired collections, Shaun Samson continued his theme, but this time gave things an added dose of cute. Oversized printed t-shirts, cropped layered check shirts reminiscent of LA gangs and chrome embellishment all gave the collection a hardcore feel - that is, until the kittens came out. Giant cat's head prints adorned sweatshirts and T-Shirts, injecting a dark sense of humour to the collection
MAN: Shaun Samson
After a series of tough streetwear and street culture-inspired collections, Shaun Samson continued his theme, but this time gave things an added dose of cute. Oversized printed t-shirts, cropped layered check shirts reminiscent of LA gangs and chrome embellishment all gave the collection a hardcore feel - that is, until the kittens came out. Giant cat's head prints adorned sweatshirts and T-Shirts, injecting a dark sense of humour to the collection
J.W. Anderson
Forging forwards and defiantly taking menswear in new directions, Jonathan 'J.W.' Anderson offers his man a whole new concept in clothing. Super wide-leg tonal floral print trousers and matching ruffle neck smock tops, cape-style coats and sheer twin sets featuring all-over appliqué were included. How this will eventually translate into what we see on the shop floor is something else entirely
J.W. Anderson
Forging forwards and defiantly taking menswear in new directions, Jonathan 'J.W.' Anderson offers his man a whole new concept in clothing. Super wide-leg tonal floral print trousers and matching ruffle neck smock tops, cape-style coats and sheer twin sets featuring all-over appliqué were included. How this will eventually translate into what we see on the shop floor is something else entirely
Jonathen Saunders
It was psychedelia meets David Bowie's Thin White Duke for the master of colour and print's latest menswear offering. Jonathan Saunders is a designer who manages to succinctly straddle Men's and Women's, offering continuity between both. Rather than make masculine clothes for women, or feminine clothes for men, Saunders takes his cues and reinterprets them for each line successfully. And this collection was no exception
Jonathen Saunders
It was psychedelia meets David Bowie's Thin White Duke for the master of colour and print's latest menswear offering. Jonathan Saunders is a designer who manages to succinctly straddle Men's and Women's, offering continuity between both. Rather than make masculine clothes for women, or feminine clothes for men, Saunders takes his cues and reinterprets them for each line successfully. And this collection was no exception
Margaret Howell
Never one to be defined by trend, Margaret Howell keeps things simple with a clear understanding of her man, season after season. Wearable colours, flattering shapes and elegant styling are what she's known for and it is that succinct ideology that keeps you coming back. It might not be a collection that gets pulses racing, but it is one that effervesces subtle refinement and desirability
Nicole Farhi
Inspired by the great British seaside, notably Brighton's rundown chic, the S/S 2013 offering from Nicole Farhi was calm, collected and effortless. Print was a theme that ran throughout - a new direction for the Farhi menswear, but one that lifted the collection and worked successfully within the context of the simpler, toned down, elements
Nicole Farhi
Inspired by the great British seaside, notably Brighton's rundown chic, the S/S 2013 offering from Nicole Farhi was calm, collected and effortless. Print was a theme that ran throughout - a new direction for the Farhi menswear, but one that lifted the collection and worked successfully within the context of the simpler, toned down, elements
Pringle of Scotland
Alistair Carr's final collection as Pringle creative director, before he moves on to pastures new, pulled on both the label's heritage and the designer's own modern aesthetic. Outerwear was an important feature - using structural and loosely-tailored elements - as was the knitwear, of course. Drawing on his love of development, the line saw subtle shadow argyle and a seemingly digitalised camouflage motif making an appearance
Pringle of Scotland
Alistair Carr's final collection as Pringle creative director, before he moves on to pastures new, pulled on both the label's heritage and the designer's own modern aesthetic. Outerwear was an important feature - using structural and loosely-tailored elements - as was the knitwear, of course. Drawing on his love of development, the line saw subtle shadow argyle and a seemingly digitalised camouflage motif making an appearance
Richard James
It was bright pops of colour at Richard James, set against a backdrop of greys and softer, lighter tones, that made for a well-received Spring offering from the modern tailor. Nonchalantly adding a little sparkle to his striking ensembles, a number of looks were teamed with a jewelled slipper, allowing his gentlemen to have a little Cinderella moment all of their own
Richard James
It was bright pops of colour at Richard James, set against a backdrop of greys and softer, lighter tones, that made for a well-received Spring offering from the modern tailor. Nonchalantly adding a little sparkle to his striking ensembles, a number of looks were teamed with a jewelled slipper, allowing his gentlemen to have a little Cinderella moment all of their own
Richard Nicoll
Richard Nicoll has been a leading light on the womenswear schedule in London, season after season, so the audience's excitement was palpable as it awaited his menswear debut. In keeping with his understated aesthetic, the collection was based around well-trodden menswear silhouettes, but with a striking and luxurious update. Sportswear and more tailored elements featured in beautiful fabrics, while a well-cut denim jacket added an off-duty edge
Richard Nicoll
Richard Nicoll has been a leading light on the womenswear schedule in London, season after season, so the audience's excitement was palpable as it awaited his menswear debut. In keeping with his understated aesthetic, the collection was based around well-trodden menswear silhouettes, but with a striking and luxurious update. Sportswear and more tailored elements featured in beautiful fabrics, while a well-cut denim jacket added an off-duty edge
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Hella Jongerius’ ‘Angry Animals’ take a humorous and poignant bite out of the climate crisisAt Salon 94 in New York, Hella Jongerius presents animal ceramics, ‘Bead Tables’ and experimental ‘Textile Studies’ – three series that challenge traditional ideas about function, craft, and narrative
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A photographic study of a family hi-fi store is a vivid portrait of a small businessFashion photographer Nik Hartley looked behind the scenes at Wilkinson’s Hi-Fi, a longstanding part of its Lancashire community.
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The Contestant: inside the dark and exploitative beginnings of reality TVClair Titley’s The Contestant examines a sensationalist moment in TV history, before Big Brother meant reality became an accepted part of popular culture
