Milan and Paris fashion week venues S/S 2013: menswear collections
Moncler Gamme Bleu: Has Milan's Padiglione Visconti turned into a ship? With steel details already resembling a naval deck, Etienne Russo and his Villa Eugenie team embellished the space with lifebuoys and naval flags to fit the nautical mood of the collection. Benches were painted in Moncler's signature red, white and blue in tribute to the French flag
Words: Rosa Bertoli
Prada: Prada and AMO collaborated on yet another incredible space. Upon entering the label's via Fogazzaro headquarters, guests walked past a futuristic white hallway spelling out the brand name in large, optically distorted letters to find themselves in the show space, which was completely transformed by the Rotterdam design studio. AMO created an antiseptic contrast with the venue's rough appearance and added geometric elements such as whitewashed seating blocks and a catwalk outlined with light on the wide floor space
Trussardi: Set in the garden of a beautiful villa in the heart of Milan, the Trussardi show felt more like an informal summer party than a fashion event. The refreshing set-up by Studio Storage saw the models walk down a path amid the greenery, with props like bikes and sunbeds casually completing the scene
Salvatore Ferragamo: Every season the 1930s Palazzo Mezzanotte plays host to the Ferragamo show. This year a white geometric entryway emblazoned with the house's logo stood in contrast to the building's neoclassical façade. Inside, the same asymmetrical shape was replicated at the catwalk entrance, with the rest of the space left minimal and a set of spotlights illuminating the models' route
Umit Benan: At the Palazzo della Permanente, a white curtain was pulled aside to reveal eight cosy beds, bedroom furniture and accessories such as mirrors, bedside tables and coffee cups. The spectacle was designed by Urban Production
Kenzo: At the Maison du Judo, Kenzo's guests were seated on the terraces, while on the floor below them plywood boxes served as pedestals for the models. Villa Eugenie used them to create contrast with the venue's original red floor
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Dries Van Noten: The Villa Eugenie Team painted a white catwalk to clash with the rough appearance of the Garage Vaugirard, and lined it with wooden black benches.
Givenchy: Despite being a huge space, the atmosphere in the Halle Freyssinet was intimate, thanks to two narrow rows of white benches outlining a concrete catwalk, and a beautiful geometric arch of white lilies creating a romantic passage for the models' entrance
Lanvin: It was all about the dusky lights. Etienne Russo and his team placed a thin neon door to light the models' entrance over the black rubber catwalk. Further lighting was provided by a panel of spotlights placed on one side, as well as the elevated windows that lined the space
Rosa Bertoli was born in Udine, Italy, and now lives in London. Since 2014, she has been the Design Editor of Wallpaper*, where she oversees design content for the print and online editions, as well as special editorial projects. Through her role at Wallpaper*, she has written extensively about all areas of design. Rosa has been speaker and moderator for various design talks and conferences including London Craft Week, Maison & Objet, The Italian Cultural Institute (London), Clippings, Zaha Hadid Design, Kartell and Frieze Art Fair. Rosa has been on judging panels for the Chart Architecture Award, the Dutch Design Awards and the DesignGuild Marks. She has written for numerous English and Italian language publications, and worked as a content and communication consultant for fashion and design brands.
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