Milan Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2019 Editor’s Picks

Armani/Silos Fabula Charles Fréger: Milan Fashion Week Men’s allowed editors the chance to catch Armani/Silos’ exhibition of the work of Charles Fréger. The photographer is famed for capturing different global communities, rituals and dress codes, and the showcase features over 250 retrospective images, from Steps, Fréger’s portraits of the Finnish ice-skating team, to the famed series Wilder Mann, a series dedicated to pagan figures, which crosses 18 European countries. The exhibition is on view until 24 March 2019.

Kiton: There was an air of expedition behind Kiton’s A/W 2019 offering, one crafted to cater to its on-the-go tailoring and travel obsessed customer. Suiting has taken on an ease, unstructured and more casual, with heritage houndstooth and Prince of Wales check taking on a renewed relaxation. The collection also introduces a range of outdoors worthy pieces new to Kiton’s canon, including luxurious parkas lined with fur and cosy sheepskin jackets.

Versace: RuPaul’s commanding refrain ’Shante you stay, Sashay away’ announced the start of Donatella Versace’s A/W 2019 show. The opening section paid homage to the bondage codes Gianni dabbled with in the early 1990s - harness printed T-shirts were teamed up with see through plastic trousers, while backless tailored jackets held together with straps where worn over baroque silk shirts. Elsewhere, sharply cut grey suits were given a high octane boost with floro lace linings and feather boa trims. The tempo revved up further in a collaboration with Ford. The automotive giants iconic logo was emblazoned over jeans and shirts. An update of the brand’s souped-up Chain Reaction sneaker came in leopard and an array of ultra brights.

Andrea Pompilio: The designer continued to evolve his unique approach to producing playful updates on wardrobe staples. He looked to rave culture and the early morning post club journey home for inspiration. Big and baggy proportions were key, with Pompilio turning up the volume on a plaid duffle, while elongated shirts appeared from under boxy blazers. Elsewhere, a macro-check wool overcoat had the ease of a dressing gown and jumbo cord trousers were teamed with plus-size sneakers. Other highlights included a down jacket and parka in mismatched heritage fabrics and tech nylon, and an anorak  emblazoned with leopard print.

Church’s: This season Church’s took a leisurely stroll around the streets of West London. Presented against a photographic backdrop of houses and front doors, styles were displayed on Church’s logo emblazoned door mats. The brands classic Shannon style appeared with a creeper sole and a bold silver buckle side fastening, while their Pembrey penny loafers were given a punk makeover and covered in flat studs. Elsewhere, the cobbler expanded its St. James’s collection with new bag styles and an elegant double buckle monk in soft grain leather.

Bed J.W Ford: Self-taught designer Shinpei Yamagishi was feeling reflective ahead of his Milan Fashion Week debut. Since 2010, his label – pronounced ‘Bedford’ – has become known for its street slouchy tailoring and play on gender codes. For A/W 2019 the duality was illustrated in thick wools paired with elegant satins, soft leather with nylon. There were fringed shawl collars on wool trench coats. Rolled velvet collars. Dusty jewelled tones of rust, amethyst and red. It is a languid eclecticism favoured by Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester and Haider Ackermann. New for the season was a capsule made with Adidas Originals. The sportswear brand’s iconic three stripes are brought inside the leg on purple velvet track pants. Sock boot sneakers had gently spiked soles.

Brioni: Newly appointed executive design director Norbert Stumpfl presented his quietly confident debut collection for Brioni in a velvet lined room. The sumptuous surroundings showcased a collection of considered pieces that focused on effortless tailoring with luxurious details. A formal coat hides a shaved beaver lining, while a softly cut blazer came with an astrakhan collar. Elsewhere, a field jacket was given an exotic makeover in crocodile and a trench appeared in butter soft leather. As always tailoring was key – blazers in knitted jersey and cashmere had an easy elegance. The collection also introduced the Primo suit, a new slender fit silhouette and minimal construction making it the perfect day to night uniform.

Brunello Cucinelli: The brand loosened things up this season in a collection that turned up the volume while staying true to the brand’s classic silhouettes. Generously cut caban jackets and roomy cable knit cardigans were effortlessly thrown over single and double-breasted blazers. A suit in Bordeaux cashmere moleskin had a casual gentlemanly elegance about it, while the easy yet luxurious feel continued with a series of corduroy tuxedos. Elsewhere, fine v-neck knits appeared from under shirts, and relaxed fit jeans came in premium Japanese denim. Brown leather trekking boots and suede Derbies with rubber soles added a rugged sensibility.

Dondup: The Italian label is known for its subtle detailing and sure-fire wearability. For the coming season, the modish, understated outfitter pushed an outerwear message with the warmest, urban chicest style; a trench in wool plaid had a generous volume. Sleeves on slim cashmere knits were extra long. A nylon parka had fuzzy, teddy bear lining. Standout were custom parachute patchwork cargo pants – a canvas of velvet, corduroy, ultra light nylon, silk and heavy cotton. They had a modern, military rhythm.

Giuseppe Zanotti: The glamour and glitz of the label’s namesake founder was front and centre with splashy, sparkling leathers and glimmering textures on its classic styles. Standout was the Blabber capsule of sneakers, a development from S/S 2019’s Urchin style. This elegant new shape for the brand has a double tongue and double silver eyelets, lending it a lo-fi, 1990s Japanese insouciance. Covered in 3D printed vinyl spikes, it’s still packed with Zannotti’s seductive joie de vivre.

Miaoran: The Chinese-born designer Miao Ran moved to Italy to study at the Politecnico di Milano and has a Masters from Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti, where he teaches today. After some time working with Missoni, Ran launched his namesake brand in 2015 in Milan. He referred to his A/W 2019 show as a love letter to Milan – ‘seen through foreign eyes’. Earlier in the week Alessandro Sartori talked of the diversity and transience of the city; Ran’s approach is to remix its sartorial codes. From the clergymen to the Carabinieri and pizzaioli, the clothes had a monastic line. Washed denim was in workwear shapes. Fine-wool suiting had formal uniform details lined in hot-pink piping. Trousers were ruched at the waist. The clothes had a sombreness that felt local yet unknown.

Missoni: Angela Missoni presented the brands A/W 2019 collection in an installation created by artist Anton Alvarez. Mannequins stood amongst a series of colourful cylindrical sculptures dressed in a more minimalist Missoni attire. Striped unstructured blazers, grandfather style cardigans and chunky jumpers came in a refined colour palette of soft gradients - shades of camel fluidly morphed into ochre; crimson red into bright orange; and deep wine into electric blue. Texture was also key with different knit techniques often being layered over each other for tactile effect. In a special collaboration with Alvarez, two distinctive cable knit dégradé sweaters came with whirling relief patterns embroidered by hand.

Etro: There was a pinch of A Midsummer Night’s Dream’s playful Puck in Etro’s A/W 2019 collection, one designed to take wearers on a fantastical pastoral voyage, through verdant forests and across flowering fields. The offering abounded with medieval style tapestries, patchwork motifs, foliage prints, the house’s signature paisley and alchemical gold thread details, and featured sumptuous smoking jackets, bold suits, puffer jackets and shearling coats. Excellent finery for escapades in enchanted forests.

Ralph Lauren Purple: This season Ralph Lauren mounted his horse and channeled his deep affinity for riding in a collection rich with equestrian tropes. A soft suede bomber emblazoned with laser cut ridding motifs taken from archival scarf looked polo ready, while a gabardine raincoat featured the same scarf print as a lining. A generously cut wool overcoat closed with buckles was inspired by the RL Stirrup Watch, this also appeared on belts and sneakers with a strap fastening. Wool-cashmere turtlenecks, and Fair Isle sweaters were tucked into high-waisted trousers reminiscent of jodhpurs. A touch of fun came in the form of a coat made of Steiff teddy fur.

Santoni: The accessories house has never followed convention and this season was no exception, with the brand holding a mock auction to present their A/W 2019 collection. Guests were invited to bid on pairs of shoes, each lot being humourlessly introduced by the auctioneer. The brand’s classic double buckle monk appeared in shiny ebony leather with a slightly squared toe, while an ankle boot with eliminated seams looked super sleek. The brand’s signature lace-up mountain boots came in a high-top version with soft ankle padding and para rubber sole, alongside a low cut walking style. Elsewhere, loafers in exotic crocodile were toughened up with a chunky tread, and brogues came with untreated heals and soles. A range of running shoes using the brand’s unique artisanal approach and finest leather completed the collection.

Tod’s: Set in the grounds of the grand Villa Necchi Campiglio, Tod’s presented a collection of fine menswear staples, giving each a luxury makeover. A classic puffer came in super soft chocolate brown leather, while a utility jacket in pale grey suede had an easy elegance. These were teamed with fine cashmere roll necks and basket weave knitted jumpers. Elsewhere, neat bombers and overcoats were made in eco-sustainable fabric. As always footwear was key – pull-on boots came with a new toecap embossed with the Gommino pattern, the classic Tod’s moccasin got a sporty update with a neoprene inner sock; and sneakers appeared in brushed calfskin with a Velcro fastening.

Tom Ford: The designer took a more minimalist approach this season in a pared down collection that played with volume, while staying true to the brand’s sleek silhouettes. The focus was high voltage outerwear - a blown up black parka revealed a cosy duvet lining, while a super lightweight puffer in copper came with a double-breasted zip fastening. The protective yet luxurious feel continued with nylon jackets and matching trousers that could be worn uniform-like. Elsewhere, a black leather suit with pronounced topstitching along its seams added a touch of danger, and an arctic white cashmere zip-up hoodie looked après ready. Bags in exotic skins came with concealed zips and robust hardware, and a new more sturdy monk strap ankle boot expanded Ford’s accessories range.

Jimmy Choo: A statement hybrid sneaker/trainer/shoe is the footwear of today; Jimmy Choo’s A/W 2019 collection explored a retro vision of the future. A millennial penchant for the glamorous and bold encouraged creative director Sandra Choi to new limits. The Diamond style sneaker which premiered last season returned, but amped up. Based on a crafted racing shoe, its chunky, semi-transparent octahedron sole is designed to look as if you’re about to step into a brilliant gemstone. It is a nod to Cinderella’s slipper via rock-infused, sportswear-inspired 1960s Americana and the ergonomic metallic sheen of the mid-century space race. Fantasy and the final frontier.