Milan S/S 2011: show tunes
Showmanship is almost as important as the clothes at the Menswear Collections, and if clothes make the man, it’s the production - and all that encompasses - that makes the show. Meticulous planning goes into each sartorial extravaganza and music is an element that no producer can afford to be blasé about.
This season’s soundtracks reflect this intense process, and the names below read like a roster of music royalty – past and present. Common themes do arise and an overarching presence of über-cool remixes and classic tracks abound throughout the productions of DJs like Michel Gaubert and Frederic Sanchez – names that hold as much weight as the artists they so carefully select.
Saturday 19/06
No more “I Love You’s” – Annie Lennox, Why – Annie Lennox, A Whiter Shade of Pale – Annie Lennox, There Must Be An Angel – Annie Lennox
Live performance
Calvin Klein Collection
Walk On The Wild Side – Lou Reed
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez
Burberry Prorsum
The House Of The Rising Sun - The Animals, Don't Let Me Be Misunderstood - The Animals, You’ll Never Walk Alone - Gerry and The Pacemakers, Wonderful Land - The Shadows
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British music selected by chief creative officer Christopher Bailey
Versace
Howlin' For You - The Black Keys, We are the Bankers - Poni Hoax, Divisive - We Have Band, Psycho Killer (Lexicon Avenue Remix) – Talking Heads, John, I'm Only Dancing - The Polecats
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez
Sunday 20/06
Paris, Texas - Ry Cooder, Hang on St. Christopher - Tom Waits, New York is killing me - Gil Scott Heron, No Safety Zone - Ry Cooder, Goin’ Out West - Tom Waits
Sound production: Michel Gaubert
Emporio Armani
Death - White Lies, To Lose My Life - White Lies, Spit It Out (Alexander Kowalsky Remix) – Iamx, Hold My Hand – Unkle, Nightlife – Iamx, Reign (Three AM’s Black Swan Vocal Mix) - Unkle
Sound production: Giorgio Armani In House Team
Gianfranco Ferre’
Psycho Killer (Live Remix) – Talking Heads, Once in a Lifetime (Live Mix) – Talking Heads
Sound production: Michel Gaubert
Salvatore Ferragamo
Das Buch Der Klänge : Part 10 - Hans Otte,– Complainte DʼEurydice (C.W. Gluck) - Georges Auric, Music From The Towers Of The Moon: I - Balanescu Quartet, High Life For Nine Instruments - Balanescu Quartet, The Real Sydney - Acid Pauli
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez
Vivienne Westwood
The Road We Travel (Suspension) - Africanz On Marz, In Her Pride – Grasscut, Golden Years (Mano Le Tough edit) - David Bowie, Meu Nome E Ze - City Of Gods soundtrack, Yerbaguena - Pepe Habichuela & The Bollywood Strings, We Can’t Fly – Aeroplane, Don’t Let Go (Pete Herbert edit) - Tony Orlando, Gadget Funk - The Herbaliser, Spider (The Time & Space Machine remix) - Kirsty Almeida, …You Too – Fontan, The Banquet - Camille Claudel soundtrack, Bebele - Sally Nyolo, Hummelflug (Zar Saltan) (Antar, Op.9 - symphonic suite) - Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov, Overdrive (Morgan Geist remix) - Bot’Ox, Djomani (Disco Jams mix) - Black Joy, Fiera De Vinil (Bonde Do Terror remix by Rio Neurotic Bass) – Sunsplash, Manha De Carnaval - Luiz Bonfà, Teenage Spaceman - Booka Shade, Red Dress (The Glitch Mob remix) - Tv On The Radio, Punkadelic (Krikor remix) - Freq Nasty, Hummelflug (Zar Saltan) (Antar Op.9 - symphonic suite) - Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov, I Can’t Stand The Rain (Mindless Boogie re-edit by Villa) - Tina Turner,
music by Jerry Bouthier
Sound production: Andrea Gorgerino / JBAG
Moncler Gamme Bleu
Azzurro - Adriano Celentano, Bicycle Race - The Paper Bag Players, Bicycle Race - Louis Clark & Royal Philharmonic Orchestra, Tour de France (Instr.) - Kraftwerk, Tour de France (Señor Coconut and His Orchestra) – Kraftwerk, Tour de France (Remix François K.) – Kraftwerk, Tour de France (Kling Klang Analog Mix) – Kraftwerk, Bicycle Race – Queen, Beatlephonic Medly - The Royal Philharmonic Orchestra
Sound production: Michel Gaubert
Prada
Bela Lugosi’s Dead – Bauhaus, Double Dare - Bauhaus, Each Man Kills The Things He Loves - Ingrid Caven, Each Man Kills The Things He Loves - Jeanne Moreau, Die Tränen Einer Dame - Peer Raben, Das Schiff Und Der Seemann - Peer Raben, Dark Chariot (Instrumental) - Umebayashi Shigeru
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez
Roberto Cavalli
Seamus - Pink Floyd, Heartbroken, in disrepair - Dan Auerbach, Howlin’ for you - The Black Keys, Shake that devil - Anthony and the Johnsons, Come in please - Edward Sharpe & The Magnetic Zeros, California Swamp Dance - Kim Fowley
Sound production: Daniele Cavalli
Monday 21/06
Off The Wall - Ryo Murakami, Waltz For Koop - Koop feat. Cecilia Stalin, Slip Into Something More Comfortable – Kinobe, Elle Et Moi - Max Berlin, Love Me, Please Love Me - Michel Polnareff, Crystal - Piero Umiliani, Monster Island - Claude VonStroke, Hopeful (Zombie Remix) - Worm Is Green, La Piscine - Michel Legrand, Heaven - Kasper Bjørke, Une Belle Histoire - Michel Fugain & Le Big Bazar, Voglio Vivere Cosi - Ferruccio Tagliavini
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez
ZZegna
California – Claude VonStroke, Gertler - Michael Nyman, Fly Drive - Michael Nyman, Paradise Circus (Gui Boratto Remix) - Massive Attack, Paradise Circus - Massive Attack, Voglio Vivere Cosi - Ferruccio Tagliavini
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez
Gucci
So Divine – The Rolling Stones, Hustle and Cuss - The Dead Weather, Everlasting Night - The Black Keys, The High Road - The Broken Bells
Sound production: Michel Gaubert
D&G
Hot N Fun - N.E.R.D featuring Nelly Furtado.
Neil Barrett
Opening - Mademoiselle Caro, Courage - The Whitest Boy Alive, Midnights (fan death remix) - Lost Valentinos, Rollerskate - Matias Aguayo, Farewell To Wendo - Mock & Toof, Re-Stacks (Thomas Bedford mix) – Bon Iver
Lorenzo LSP
Pringle of Scotland
Ulysses - Franz Ferdinand, Do you want to - Franz Ferdinand, Severed Heads - Franz Ferdinand, Matinee - Franz Ferdinand
Acoustic set by Franz Ferdinand during the catwalk presentation
Tuesday 22/06
Porto - Matthew Herbert, Walk On The Wild Side - Dj Disse, Sycamore Feeling – Trentemøller, Triangle Folds - James Holden, Huibuh - Ellen Allien, Cut By The Brakes - Grand National, Shades Of Marble – Trentemøller, Our Utopie - Ellen Allien, Shameless - Groove Armada
Sound production: Giorgio Armani In House Team
Dsquared2
No Musik, No Life - Laurent Garnier, Do You Think I'm Sexy? - Queen of Japan, Da Ya Think I'm Sexy? - Rod Stewart, Call Me - Blondie, Madame Hollywood (Ursula 1000 remix) - Felix da Housecat, Money (That's What I Want) [Full Acapella (128 BPM) Mix] - Yves & Vera, Orally Fixated - Róisín Murphy, Attention Whore - Melleefresh And Deadmau5, Acapella (david guetta extended mix) – Kelis, Yes Sir, I Can Boogie – Baccara, Call Me - Blondie
Sound production: Dean & Dan, Adriano Alboni
Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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