At different venues in the environs of the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo in the heart of Florence, an exhibition named ‘Across Art and Fashion’ (Tra Arte e Moda), that encompasses clothing, accessories, fabrics, works of art, books, periodicals and photographs, considers the often-discussed relationship between fashion and art.
'In the last 10 years, artists have been reflecting on the commercial aspect more and more', according to Stefania Ricci, director of the Ferragamo Museo. 'And fashion designers are using art more too', she continues, 'in research and inspiration'.
With the weighty backdrop of Florence’s history as a meeting place of artists and incubator of art, it’s only fitting that Salvatore Ferragamo chose Uffizi Gallery, the National Library, Museo Marino Marini and the museum of Textile in Prato as its collaborators. 'In the Renaissance, there was no difference between art and craftsmanship', Ricci remarks, and that’s where Mr Ferragamo, the Florentine shoe designer comes into the picture.
There is no question that he was deeply fascinated by avant-garde art, as much as he was fascinated by the glamourous Hollywood world he equipped with elegant footwear. He collaborated with both Dior and Schiapparelli, and bedecked both Audrey Hepburn and Peggy Guggenheim.
Ferragamo took a great deal of inspiration from the colourful works of Sonia Delaunay and from Kenneth Noland’s circular abstraction, and along these pieces contemporary designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake share the plinths with Yinka Shonibare, a Nigerian artist who uses African waxprint textiles in 19th century silhouettes, and Martin Margiela, Helmut Lang and Gareth Pugh. 'Essentially, they all address the problem of the body', concludes Ricci. As did Salvatore Ferragamo, who produced his best work in the 1920s and 1930s, and who will go down in fashion history as the shoe designer who artfully altered our silhouette from the ground up.
Sketches of one of Ferragamo’s shoes inspired by a rhinocerous’ horn, along with Stephen Jones’ shoe hat
One of the halls showcasing shoes from the collection, including a Peggy Guggenheim inspired shoe, on the far left
Pictured here, Salvatore Ferragamo’s ’Tirassegno’ suede pump with kid appliqués with a target-shooting motif, and Kenneth Noland’s Untitled painting from 1958, acrylic on canvas, 96 x 96 cm
On the left, Rosa Genoni’s ‘Pisanello’ court cape, in silk velvet with embroidery, from 1906
Issey Miyaki’s dress inspired by Yasumasa Morimura’s three-panelled Portrait series, 1986–90
Yves Saint Laurent’s world-famous 1960s Mondrian shift dress, pictured here next to the artist’s painting by which it was inspired
Pictured here, Andy Warhol’s famous The Souper Dress, produced in the Seventies with the motif of the famous Campbell’s Soup can, an image repeated in sequence as silkscreens
Two dresses by the Italian fashion designer and stylist Germana Marucelli, inspired by the work of Spatialist artist Paolo Scheggi
One of the interactive halls in the Ferragamo Museum
Martin Margiela was also one of the designers who was continuously inspired by art and fascinated by the human body, pictured here, some of his famous creations
INFORMATION
'Across Art and Fashion' continues through 7 June 2016. For more information, visit the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo website
Photography: Guglielmo de' Micheli
ADDRESS
Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza di Santa Trinita, 5/R, 50123 Firenze, Italy
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