New York A/W 2011 Fashion Week: Grooming trends

Altuzzara’s dramatic look last season involved dark ink spots sprayed onto model’s faces and hair. For fall, the girls took on a more glamour-inspired guise, with hairstylist Paul Hanlon for Fekkai and makeup artist Tom Pecheux for MAC pushing forward 1990s nonchalance with ’Hollywood boudoir’ glamour and sensuality.

Inspired by New York’s modernist crowd, DKNY gave each model a polished face with graphic eyeliner outlines on the eyes by Charlotte Willer for Maybelline New York. Hair by Wella Professionals creative director Eugene Souleiman was scrunched up and wispy.

The theme of all-American glamour revisited was given a perfect outing at Diane Von Furstenberg when lead makeup artist James Kaliardos pitted the girls’ pouty red lips against black metallic eye shadow, and Orlando Pita created a sleek low ponytail to complete the look.

Thakoon’s fun-loving colour burst came through in eye-popping shades by Diane Kendal for NARS Cosmetics, while hair was embellished rather joyously with wool strips and pom poms by Odile Gilbert for Kerastase Paris.

Y-3 concentrated on geometrical half-moon eyeliner shapes by makeup maestro Pat McGrath, while deconstructed braiding by hairstylist Eugene Souleiman underscored the collection’s modern back-to-nature edge.

The polished 1970s look over at Tommy Hilfiger, where Diane Kendal’s minimal makeup using MAC was paired with straight glossy hair, styled into a clean centre parting and just a hint of texture through the body, under the direction of Eugene Souleiman.

Zero + Maria Cornejo’s collection reminded makeup artist Gucci Westman (Revlon’s global artistic director) of the desert goddess look, so she added touches of bronze and gold for a sunswept dusty look, with glossy lips to give things a modern twist.

Faces at Marc by Marc Jacobs were clean and polished with makeup by Dick Page for Shiseido, so Guido Palau for Redken enhanced the freshness by scraping hair back into a sleek high ponytails. 

Wistful and romantic, the grooming at Rodarte had the skillful James Kaliardos with MAC giving eyes just the slightest wisp of colour, while hair was swept over the face and pinned to the side by Odile Gilbert with Aveda. 

Pat McGrath gave eyes a smokey edge over at Diesel Black Gold, while Guido Palau engineered wavy hair into side-parted sleekness by adding gloss to the hair from the roots.

The girls at Marc by Marc Jacobs were given a grown-up edge with quiffed updos by Guido Palau for Redken, while Dick Page for Shiseido made sure faces were natural with a rosy glow.

It doesn’t get more futuristic than Thom Browne’s grooming, which featured dramatic fake eyelashes, framed by knitted white hood-caps, the execution of which was carefully monitored by Tadashi Harada for Shiseido.

The long crimped Botticelli-style hair was one of the grooming focuses at 3.1 Phillip Lim, put together under the direction of Odile Gilbert with Kerastase. Meanwhile Lisa Butler using NARS drew focus to the eyes with layers of blue and green shadow bases.

Ports 1961’s fantastic geometric eye-liner and a hint of lip gloss, paired with a feminine low-slung side-parted ponytail, can only be the handiwork of hairstylist Guido Palau and makeup artist Pat McGrath.

Proenza Schouler concentrated on peach tones to accentuate the lines of the face, while hair was dramatically long and left to hang in a tousled loose ponytail just below the nape.

Faces at Calvin Klein Collection were dewy with a hint of shimmer just above the cheekbones and in the corner of eyes, while hair was slicked back and pulled up into a high ponytail.

Ralph Lauren’s dramatic look for fall was seen through by giving lips an injection of bright red colour. Makeup artist Tom Pecheux’s sensual colour palette was complemented by the sleek centre-parted ponytail, engineered by Guido Palau.