New York Fashion Week S/S 2017 womenswear editor's picks

Delpozo: Arguably the most beautiful collection of New York Fashion Week, Delpozo’s Josep Font proved that he’s the master of eveningwear. Font was influenced by Spanish light master Joaquín Sorolla and Korean-American artist Soo Sunny Park’s installation art. Sculptural trousers, tops and gowns in soft pastels came out from the runway, along with an assortment of ruffles, stripes and shiny floral embellishments. 

Tomas Maier: Embroidered floral details, hand-painted hems and colour blocking brought a playful element to Tomas Maier understated spring/summer collection that was clearly meant for discrete city dwellers. The German accessories expert’s take on the furry slide trend, in a diverse range of colours, as with the metallic leather bags, showed his firm grasp of what his audience is waiting for

Narciso Rodriguez: The New Yorker put out a number of minimal separates for his S/S 2017 collection. Calf wedges were styled with photogram print silk dresses and loose silk trenches

Rodarte: Alexandre de Betak of Bureau Betak once again juxtaposed technology and nature for the Mulleavy sisters’ S/S 2017 set that saw fluorescent tube lights intermingled with yellow wild flowers

Gabriela Hearst: For her sixth collection, Gabriela Hearst looked at witches as her starting point, churning out oversized silk trenches, guipure lace pencil skirts and chic separates that can be dressed up or down

3.1 Phillip Lim: The floor of the 3.1 Phillip Lim show was dusted with flowers, which alluded to the prints that would soon walk out onto the runway. The varying floral prints ended up being the strongest part of the collection, decorating a white jacket, and showing up on several blouses and dresses that were teamed back with contrasting linear stripes.

DKNY: Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, the two born-and-bred New Yorkers now behind DKNY, took it upon themselves to redefine New York’s fashion future by creating a collection that inhabits in a place they called ‘Neo Soho’. Here the pair flexed their streetwear expertise, incorporating edgy windbreakers with tailored blazers and oversized knits.

The Row: The American brand may not be releasing its S/S 2017 runway images until January, but the New York show did give us a chance to get better acquainted with its new art-filled Manhattan store.

Zero + Maria Cornejo: Maria Cornejo used one hue for her entire S/S 2017 collection: off-white. The pieces were loose and wearable, yet stylish; clothes that women who care about comfort and the way they’re dressed would covet.

Diane Von Furstenberg: Jonathan Saunders’s debut at DVF was a commanding success, with the designer adding new life to the house’s signature wrap dress, with vibrant, intersecting prints and a looser fit. Touches of bold stripes and laser cutting made it more interesting, while being wearable and accessible to DVF loyalists. 

Sies Marjan: For his second NYFW outing, Sies Marjan’s Sander Lak continued to maintain the buzz around his label with an array of monochromatic looks, featuring a sprinkling of an abstract pastel prints, and looks that proved that he knows how to elegantly drape, wrap, and slouch. A layered, shimmery fiery orange gown fell just so in all the right places, while a subtle navy off-the-shoulder v-neck top revealed an easygoing elegance. 

Hood By Air: Never one to hold on to convention, Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver tapped Pornhub to sponsor his S/S 2016 show, even using porn as the inspiration for the show’s beauty looks, smearing Vaseline all over the models’ heads. Crisp, deconstructed white shirts rolled out, many covered with the word Wench – the collection’s theme. Models stumbling around while wearing double-sided cowboy boots, showed that they are probably more fashion than function, while HBA’s signature logoed jackets also made an appearance. 

Eckhaus Latta: Despite the sweltering heat, a coterie of artists, musicians and downtown scenesters showed up for Eckhaus Latta’s runway show, which was located in a park on New York’s Lower East Side. There’s a reason why Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta’s label is one of New York’s most buzzed about, especially amongst New York’s creative set; it’s the way they form innovative silhouettes by rejiggering denim, so that it looks new and fresh, just as they retool knits with carefree open backs. In short, they give traditional staples a new perspective

Lacoste: Felipe Oliveira Baptista dreamed up a tennis match on the rooftop of the modernist Villa Malaparte in Capri, where comfort, elegance and sensuality were of prime importance. The designer reinterpreted terrycloth robes into dresses, while turning Lacoste’s crocodile into an edgy, artful print.

Paul Andrew: Fresh on the heels of being named footwear director of Salvatore Ferragamo, Paul Andrew put out a collection of architecturally minded shoes. A rainbow of basic pumps started it all, before branching out into heavy lacings on sandals and heels. Prominent buckles accented a lot of the shoes, and simple mules were made for the more minimal minded

Area: Piotrek Panszczyk and Beckett Fogg combed old issues of iconic American fashion magazines to find inspiration for their S/S 2017 collection. ‘There was a lot of sports involved, so from that we started this intarsia on silk track jackets,’ explained Panszyczyk. ‘It starts as a bow that is appliquéd on the jacket, and it finishes as a bow that’s tied onto the neck’

M. Martin: The team at M. Martin looked to the fashions of Ernest Hemingway and his many women for S/S 2017, showing an easygoing collection dominated by tropical prints, loose-fitting safari jackets and its signature pyajama-cut pieces