New York Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 Editor's Picks

Nanushka: It’s no surprise we have a soft spot for Budapest-based label Nanushka - the brand is renowned for its supple vegan leather. It’s S/S 2019 presentation was a postmodern mash up of references, from the symbolism of ancient Egypt to the heel-kicking aesthetic of Wildern Western rodeo. Think draped silk gowns, vegan leather bustier dresses paired with leopard print shirting and delicate floral print slips. For S/S 2019, the brand also debuted its first jewellery collection, featuring snake motif chokers and tusk shape earrings. Lucky for us, the jewellery is available to purchase now.

Rag & Bone: The utilitarian, urban ethos of Rag & Bone took a more boisterous tone with prints, particularly a burst of florals and abstract camouflage interpretations, bringing a new dimension to the label’s androgynous silhouettes. In addition to apron dresses, skinny knits and masculine blazers, the label also introduced some new crowd-pleasing accessories, including a new fishnet, open-weave tote bag for a slouchier look for spring.

Maryam Nassir Zadeh: Downtown darling Maryam Nassir Zadeh chose a long-vacant building on a busy corner of Canal Street and Broadway to show off her newest collection. Skimpy crop tops, bicycle shorts and swimwear in pastel hues were paired with boxy blazers, tailored trousers and cascading ruffle skirts for a street-inspired aesthetic that has made her a favourite of the cool Manhattan set.

Gabriela Hearst: The sustainability-focused designer drew from a wealth of historical references, ranging from a poem by the Argentinian writer Jorge Luis Borges to Hieronymus Bosch’s Renaissance masterpiece ‘Garden of Earthly Delights’, to create a breathtaking collection. The garments, which ranged from wafting dresses to cool suits, boasted architectural pleating, sculptural corseting details and also an undeniable lightness that gave each of the pieces an elegant wearability. Teamed with chunky cork-soled flatform sandals and covetable new leather accessories, particularly the tiffin box-like Joni bag, the collection was a dynamic portrait of contemporary femininity.

Ralph Lauren: It was a historic event for Ralph Lauren, as the all-American brand held a spectacular show in Central Park in celebration of its 50th anniversary. The host of A-list front rowers was on repeat on social media that evening, as Oprah, Pierce Brosnan and Hillary Clinton took in looks on a carpeted runway that showcased five decades of Lauren’s men’s and women’s sports-focused heritage. Take varsity sweaters paired with fringed skirts, crafty patchwork skirts and military jackets, tweed tailoring, cowboy hats and fur coats. It was opulent and alluring, celebratory and sophisticated, a sublime encapsulation of fifty years of a New York stalwart. 

Zero + Maria Cornejo: The empowering, sustainable principles that Maria Cornejo has held dear for over thirty years couldn’t be more poignant this season. Taking heed from the Chilean painter Gracia Barrios, whose work features the faces of numerous extraordinary women, Cornejo adapted it into a print, and the collection’s female-forward aesthetic was palpable in the austere yet fluid lines, sensual textured jacquards and a bounty of earthy tones, which were all also inspired by Brazilian modernist design.

Tibi: Mindfulness seemed to be at the forefront of Tibi’s Amy Smilovic’s thinking, producing a calm and happy collection for Spring/Summer 2019. Mixing an urban colour palette of browns, blacks and burgundy with sun-drenched shades of yellow, green and blue, the relaxed, polished collection included structured yet relaxed tailoring, dropped waisted dresses, plenty of transparent layers and see-through shoes for an airy, but directional feel. Rich leather handbags, designed for the label by Myriam Schaefer, were practically sized and luxuriously made from globe leather for an added dose of everyday elegance.

3.1 Phillip Lim: The traveller spirit that Phillip Lim established last season is alive and well, this time venturing to the Moroccan desert and weaving in the textures of the nomadic Berber communities for a rustically elegant result. In addition to woven fringing, bouclé patchwork and shearling trim that nodded to the desert subculture of the mid-century, there were exuberant hits of 60s futurism by way of colourful pop prints, metallic crochet knots and amoebic hardware that decorated architectural necklines.

Opening Ceremony: No stranger to fusing fashion and performance, Opening Ceremony seized the chance to team up with the New York drag queen Sasha Velour on a highly resonant showcase of freedom, expression and creativity. The label’s new collection, which was inspired by fantasies of travelling the world, also included new collaborations with labels such as Buffalo London, John Fluevog, Columbia and Lacoste for a retro futuristic vibe.

Rimowa: The luggage label – which was acquired by LVMH in 2016 – wheeled into NYFW with a presentation of pieces which reflect their new visual identity, one which we featured exclusively in our March 2018 issue of Wallpaper* (W*228). The brand’s signature aluminium suitcases and newly designed packaging feature a new logo and monogram and its classic hard-wearing styles were displayed alongside Rimowa’s host of imaginative recent suitcase collaborations, including those with Fendi and Off-White.

DVF: Diane Von Furstenberg celebrated a pioneering spirit this season, whilst still holding on to and reinterpreting the values that have continued to make her namesake label such a stalwart for so many years. The new collection saw her signature wrap dress adapted in crisp poplin, with full skirts and pockets. Elsewhere, equally feminine bias cut and chiffon dresses were teamed with plenty of flourishes like cascading ruffles and a dizzying array of florals.

Area: The fun-filled ethos that has established Area as one of New York’s most watched emerging brands took shape as a glittering and colourful collection that proved to be the three-year old label’s strongest to date. Sheer, jewel-encrusted dresses, iridescent bustiers and a clever use of oversized ruffles and wide fishnet overlays brought a dramatic whimsy to the collection, which was realised in vibrant shades of green and fuchsia. Inspired by the Czech designer Libuše Niklová, who’s credited with creating the first inflatable children’s toys in the 1960s, the collection was playful – pure and true. 

Rosetta Getty: The designer’s ongoing love of art, and her support of female artists continued with this season’s collaboration with the artist Liz Glynn. Drawing inspiration from the ceramic glazes and clay tones in Glynn’s Joshua Tree studio, Getty’s latest collection saw utility jackets, utility trousers, evening knits and pleated cotton dresses come to life in shades of butter, jade and bisque. Glynn’s influence was also evident in a geometric print, adapted from her sketches, as well as the installation of furniture and other accents in Getty’s showroom as well.

Paul Andrew: The show aficionado highlighted this season’s focus on natural materials with a reinforced design approach. The designer collaborated with artisans in countries including Morocco and Spain to create the knotted, braided and sculpted elements that peppered his latest collection. Snakeskin-printed wedges, large abalone shell embellishments and spherical-shaped heels were just some of the features that gave an elevated edge to his always-elegant creations.

Tory Burch: This season, Tory Burch looked back to the summer jaunts of her parents Buddy and Reva Robinson, which imbued her collection with a Mediterranean wanderlust. Swarthy bohemian silhouettes were teamed with jewellery-charm embellishments, needlepoint details and classic silk scarf prints, and were topped off with woven hats and sensible laced-up shoes.