Paris Fashion Week A/W 2015: menswear collections editor's picks

Dior Homme: Pressed flower badges and Prince of Wales checks at Dior Homme.
Acne Studios: It was game on at Acne Studios where post-punk mods lined up in front of a Tron-like lighting installation.
Sacai: The serene setting for Sacai's presentation, where creative director Chitose Abe toyed with structure and textural effects in a collection that reworked casual classics.
Ami: There was a hard edge at Alexandre Mattiussi’s outing, where pierced models knuckled down in snow-white parkas and a herringbone coat thrown over a hoodie.
Comme des Garçons: Charcoal drawings by New York-born photographer and artist Roger Ballen donned the back of jackets at Comme des Garçons
APC: The brand presented a striking study in beige, embracing it for a fashion audience and not just off-duty bankers and lawyers.
Kenzo: The house presented its A/W show within the newly opened Jean Nouvel-designed Philharmonie de Paris.
Kenzo: Inside, the Legoland rubber-coated seats were just as cool.
Ann Demeulemeester: An unexpected pop of colour on the Demeulemeester runway by the founder’s former second in command, now creative director, Sébastien Meunier.
Berluti: Up, up and away. The balloon filled entrance at Berluti
Loewe: JW Anderson's confident second men's collection for Loewe pushed his ethos of feminised masculinity even further into the realms of luxury.
Sandro: Post-punk patches, army surplus inspired jackets and lots of leather at the Sandro presentation.
Maison Kitsuné: We stopped by the opening of Maison Kitsuné’s latest boutique designed by Emiliano Salci and Britt Moran of Dimore Studio.
Cerruti 1881: Creative director Aldo Maria Camillo takes a bow after the Cerruti 1881 Paris presentation.
Kolor: High performance sportswear meets fashion with Kolor's new Adidas collaboration.
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Junya Watanabe: It was high hats and Motown tuxedo jackets all the way at Watanabe.
Film: Antonio Camera
Pierre Hardy: The skater slip-on got a luxurious upgrade for A/W in supple leather.
Yohji Yamamoto: Street-fighting men walked the Yohji Yamamoto catwalk in clothing that carried battle scars and Frankenstein-like construction.
Camper: This season's Camper presentation showcased the brand's new advertising campaign and signaled an exciting new vision under creative director Romain Kremer.
Issey Miyake Men: Eccentric layers reflected the different facets of a man's lifestyle at Issey Miyake Men.
Haider Ackermann: The Belgian designer lined up rich jewel tones and velveteen textures for his dandyish A/W effort.
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Raf Simons: Thierry Dreyfus' cinematic lighting of a vast, derelict warehouse in the Parisian suburb of Ivry-sur-Seine set the scene for Simons' autobiographical autumn 2015 collection.
22/4_Hommes_Femmes: The flickering LED screens that lined the stairwells before entering the 22/4_Hommes_Femmes show.
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Valentino: Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri worked with Australian artist Esther Stewart on their show's colourful carpet catwalk.
Valentino: The house's geometric colour blocking up close in the Valentino showroom.
Lemaire: A clean slate at Christophe Lemaire who dropped his first name but not that polished minimalism.
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Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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