Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2020 Editor’s Picks

Rochas: A car mechanics garage overgrown with plants played host to designer Federico Curradi’s second menswear collection for Rochas. Models descended a metal staircase onto the concrete floor in a series of light and layered looks with an artisanal bent. Breezy longer length jackets with military details were slung over jersey vests and slouchy trousers, while crumpled silk unbuttoned shirts were nonchalantly tucked into baggy board shorts. Elsewhere, sloopy hand knitted jumpers, one with a deep V neckline and another with a flora motif, and a pair of paint splattered jeans and shirt further suggested an artists wardrobe. Porcelain charm necklaces, floppy sun hats and suede espadrilles accessorised the look.

Nanushka: Set in a tranquil courtyard secluded from the busy outside street, pieces of furniture and sculptures, created in collaboration with Studio Betak, lined the space. Designer Sandra Sandor described her second full menswear collection as ‘bohemian minimalist’. The clean lines of a high shine vegan leather jacket framed a striped soft linen shirt, while a pair of lightweight cotton drawstring trousers were juxtaposed with a sharp cropped blazer. The easy and elegant mood continued with a translucent printed robe nonchalantly thrown over a silk jersey vest, and a striped knitted polo casually tucked into fluid track pant-like trousers. Floppy sun hats and fisherman sandals competed the high summer look.

Thom Browne: The École des Beaux-Arts played host to Thom Browne’s theatrical S/S 2020 show. On entering guests were greated by a line of models standing like statues encased in oversized suit carriers. Then James Whiteside, American Ballet Theatre’s principal dancer, took to the catwalk pirouetting and leaping in a high-cut tutu and trompe l’oeil blazer leotard. The suit carriers were then pealed back one by one to reveal the models wearing Ivy League inspired sports suits consisting of a neat seersucker jacket and matching shorts with attached cod pieces. More sports references followed, shoulder lines were extended resembling American football uniforms, while fabric made basketballs appeared caught in voluminous crinoline cage pants.

Acne Studios: Creative director and brand co-founder Jonny Johansson presented his S/S 2020 collection in a plush carpeted room. Models brushed past audience members through narrow rows in a collection that embraced experimentation with art school gusto. Unexpected fabric combinations collided in a transparent acetate jacket with jacquard lining, while multiple strips of ribbon were latticed together to make a pair of trousers. Elsewhere, a jumper and coat of mashed up knit techniques came with heavy fringing, and an iridescent shirt grew a crochet panel at its bottom. The craft-like spirit continued into accessories – earrings were inventively made from chains and cable ties, and cuffs had threads that hung down over the hand.

MYAR: Designer Andrea Rosso takes vintage military garments and amends them using artisanal techniques to create unique pieces. For S/S 2020 he looked to the island of Hawaii and its culture for inspiration. Classic Hawaiian shirts were fused with dead stock army garments and camouflage fabrics and reworked into a series of tailored pieces. An upcycled jacket came lined with a tropical shirt while another carried a patchwork palm motif on its back. Elsewhere striped Telnyashka T-shirts from the Russian army are printed with hibiscus flowers, and block colour patch pockets disrupt exotic prints. For the first time the story and customisation process behind each garment will be fully revealed by scanning the QR codes thermo-applied inside each piece.

Ann Demeulemeester: Designer, Sébastien Meunier, set sail this season in collection awash with sea fairing troupes. Models strode through a mist filled room to an upbeat soundtrack. Traditional sailor uniform codes ran throughout – jackets came with tarnished gold buttons and angular lapels that enveloped the shoulders, trousers were wide and worn half mast, billowing shirts had lace up fronts and sides. Elsewhere, fisherman net tops clung to the body and lightweight canvas coats resembled ship sales. Oversized duffle bags that tied with thick ropes, wader-like boots and a single pearl earring completed the look.

GmbH: Designers Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik presented their S/S 2020 collection at the I.N.J.S. building. Guests sat outside facing the lush gardens as models walked the stone terrace in a series of sleek and powerful silhouettes. The designers continued to develop their take on modern tailoring – strong shoulder jackets and sculpted waist overcoats featuring statically placed harness-like straps had a regal about them. Body hugging tops and billowing silk shirts covered in an Evil Eye print were teamed with tailored wide leg trousers. Elsewhere, contoured denim shirts where tucked into hip hugging jeans with the fly zip exposed. In addition, shoes with an overlapping strap were cleverly made by an Italian supplier from apple pulp. Mirrored eye shaped sunglasses and belt bags completed the collection.

Officine Générale: Pierre Mahéo is a designer not concerned with the seasonal whirlwind of hard and fast trends, choosing instead to quietly build on his brand aesthetic. For S/S 2020 he was in full holiday mood, thinking about the Italian island of Ischia and a high summer wardrobe. Softly tailored blazers and neat bombers were teamed with board shorts and flat front trousers cropped at the ankle. Pyjama-style shirts came with pipping around their edges or covered in a tiny mosaic print. A lightweight longer length jacket worn with an unbuttoned plaid shirt, jeans and sandals exuded a casual elegance.

Byredo: On the wooden floor of a Parisian sports hall, Byredo’s creative director Ben Gorham fulfilled his childhood dream of becoming a professional basketball player by recreating a NBA backdrop to introduce his new Byproduct concept for S/S 2020. The designer worked with Stockholm-based tailor A.W Bauer & Co. to create ten suits inspired by basketball players’ style of the early 2000s, basing the cuts of the long blazers and trousers on their athletic body shape. Similarly, the Byproduct sneakers nod to the basketball aesthetic while being assembled in a patchwork of leather waste from the brand’s handbag products.

Namacheko: A narrow multicoloured curtain lined corridor was the setting for Namachecko’s S/S 2020 show. Models brushed by guests in tailored and knit ensembles. An update on the black suit opened the show – its jacket moulded to the body with panels and an elongated patterned knit emerging from underneath. Overcoats came spliced together, their top halves in a bold block colour the bottom patterned with small glass-like tubular rods appliquéd on top. These were teamed with shirts, their extended collars reaching a sharp point, and nylon knitted longer length tank tops. Narrow leg trousers with stirrups were worn over derby style shoes with a crochet rubber toe cap. Four oversized jumpers made of woven striped knitted bands closed the show.

Wooyoungmi: The invitation to the show – a white cassette tape – hinted at the vintage reference to the collection. The Seoul/Paris label channelled the energy and drive of City Pop, the musical genre shaped by the long-reigning post-war optimism in the 70s and 80s in Japan. The jazz, new wave fusion soundtracked the yuppie era when clothes were bold and punchy. Holiday shorts were matched with smart jackets; utility tailoring came in nylon. Hawaiian sunsets inspired acid dip dye denims and were printed over short sleeved shirts. Silver dolphin and palm tree charms, worn in the ears and high around the neck on chains, were made in collaboration with Korean jewellery brand, Portrait Report. The muse was young and sun-seeking.

Pierre Hardy: This season Pierre Hardy looked back at some of his most successful shoe styles and reworked them for now. The designer continued to push his signature sneaker in new directions, this time colourful leather and knitted panels where spliced together for graphic effect, while their moulded angular and sweeping soles were decreased in size to modest proportions. On the flip side a classic Chelsea boot and Derby shoe were given an optical update in pure white. Elsewhere, a suede trekking sandal came with Velcro fastening straps and rubber grip sole, and a hiking inspired boot with padded upper and chucking laces running up its front made their debut.

Dunhill: Models marched purposely out of a fine vale of smoke onto a high shine metal catwalk. The pounding electronic soundtrack intensifying with each look exit. Elegant volumes ran throughout – generously cut double breasted jackets that fastened with a single button hovered around the body, liquid satin trousers sometimes layered under shorts were worn with leather hotel slippers or heavy duty gold toe capped shoes, billowing elongated silk shirts came printed with classic images of the Dunhill Jermyn Street store or house logo. Elsewhere, a soft black leather tracksuit, lean blazer with sharp lapels and midnight blue poncho added a touch of danger. Safari-like jackets were cinched at the waist with long trailing belts, and lightweight wool coats cocooned the wearer. Oversized briefcases with lizard details and quilted attaches resembling a classic car interior complete the collection.

OAMC: Designer Luke Meier presenter his S/S 2020 collection in a spacious auditorium encased in huge diaphanous sheets of white muslin. These floating panels acted as a serene backdrop to a collection of restrained modern menswear. The silhouette was light and layered – a billowing lightweight anorak floated effortlessly over an elongated top and baggy trousers, while voluminous board shorts where layered over elongated sock boots. Elsewhere, boxy tailored jackets and utility shirts were heavily pressed with harsh crease lines, and diagonal ribbed knits addeded a graphic rigour. Quilted rucksacks and totes appeared like fluffy pillows, with some featuring watercolour motifs. The brand continued its collaboration with Adidas Originals with the Type-04, a cut-away technical sneaker.

Vetements: The show was hosted inside the two-floor McDonald’s on Paris’ Champs-Élysées. The clichéd, everyday setting made a perfect backdrop to the brand’s cynical, pop approach to clothes. The guests all sat sipping filtered cola as the scent of fries permeated the air. The clothes were textbook Vetements; police uniforms, tracksuits and ‘Black Friday dress’ were all riffed on and turned inside out, corporate logos revamped. Biker denims, crushed pinstripe suiting, repurposed football jerseys – archetypal ‘clothes’ repurposed into fashion. The recognisable forced into your face. It was frenzied and fabulous.

Eytys: Swedish brand Eytys is best known for its shape shifting footwear. Recently they added RTW and this season they made their Paris presentation debut with a full blown collection. Big and baggy was the mood with 90s RnB style notes – wide leg slouchy jeans hung on the hips, while fluid silk shirts were worn left open. Cargo pants came in washed denim with the usual side pockets switched to the front. A graphic printed zip up anorak and MC leather jacket added some hip hop swagger. Sneakers with bumper car soles, cowboy boots with heavy duty treads and pumped up sandals kept the volume at max.

John Lobb: This season artistic director Paula Gerbase presented her S/S 2020 collection on a series of specially commissioned sculptures. New styles includ the ‘Foundry’ sneaker – taking inspiration from 1920s sportswear silhouettes from the Lobb bespoke archive, the five panel upper uses a technical nylon canvas and a hardy cross grain leather for the first time. Appearing in the brand's classic house palette of russet, turquoise and grey, the colours allude to the oceanic tones of the Cornish coastline. In addition, three expertly crafted unisex sandals made there debut – the ‘Cross’ is a city sandal with criss-cross straps and an open toe, the single buckle ‘Stratton’ features a toe and back strap, and the ‘Beacon’, is a double buckle slider, which nods to fastenings of Lobb’s signature ‘William’ style. Each is available in a black or white colourway, in the newly developed cross grain calf, with rubber or leather soles.