Thom Browne: A Japanese teahouse set the scene for the designer's kimono inspired collection that transported us to Mount Fuji and beyond
Y-3: The Y-3 show began with a performance by the TAO Dance Theatre. Voluminous lightweight parkas where worn over T-shirts bearing the slogan 'I don't bother you', while the back of deconstructed jackets read 'Don't bother me
Officine Générale: Pierre Mahéo of Officine Générale name checked Marcello Mastroianni and his elegant nonchalance as an inspiration for spring. Trousers were pleated and tapered at the ankle to give volume, while long and large trench coats came belt-less for ease
Sandro: Chet Baker and his track 'Let's Get Lost' was the starting point for Sandro's S/S 2016 collection. Highlights included a generous coat with drop shoulders worn with white jeans cropped at the ankle, as three button suit jackets where teamed with pleated high-waisted trousers
Junya Watanabe Man: This season Junya Watanabe collaborated with Vlisco, the Dutch company that has been a supplier of fabric to West and Central Africa since the mid-19th century. Textiles were patched together on reversible jackets, shirts and board shorts, all topped off with heavily beaded necklaces and bangles
Rick Owens: The M-65 field jacket and work of artist Steven Parrino inspired a collection of hard edges and soft silhouettes at Rick Owens. Tabards appeared crumpled with stiffened areas, whilst draped jersey tunics appeared in pale green and orange
Ann Demeulemeester: The label's designer, Sébastien Meunier, explored transparency in a collection of light sheer layers in classic Demeulemeester black, burnt orange and dark emerald. The collection also showcased the labels first sunglasses range in collaboration with Linda Farrow
Ami: Alexandre Mattiussi presented a collection inspired by Paris life and the real guy on the street. Wide leg track pants were teamed with tailored overcoats, faded denim was worn uniformly head-to-toe and zip-up blousons were seen tucked into straight leg trousers.
Acne Studios: The gender bending American rock band New York Dolls and surfboard artist Robin Kegel were the inspirations behind Acne Studios' spring/summer 2016 collection. Abstract graphics prints were seen on loose jumpsuits, whilst voluminous shirts were tucked into short shorts, all worn with platform boots
Sacai: Taking inspiration from the legendary New York nightclub Paradise Garage, Sacai's hybrid approach to construction appeared in military motifs mashed up with tuxedo shirt ruffles, while fragments of the nightclubs logo was spliced into garments.
Alexander Wang: Taking evening wear to the street, Wang gave his MA-1 tuxedo flight bomber jacket a high gloss duchess satin finish. Sportswear met tailoring with the combination of broad shorts and track jackets in Italian summer wool suiting
Yohji Yamamoto: The Japanese designer tackled a leaner silhouette this season. Models appeared with stripes marked on their faces, a motif that also ran through into the clothes and signalled the danger line of Yamamoto. Yellow and black caution stripes appeared on shorts, whilst others were inserted into jackets and trousers.
Ann Demeulemeester: The label’s designer Sébastien Meunier explored transparency with a collection of light sheer layers in Demeulemeester black, burnt orange and dark emerald. The collection also showcased the label’s first sunglasses range in collaboration with Linda Farrow
Julien David: The Parisian designer, who lives between London and Tokyo decided to iron his crinkles for spring; his utility tailoring resembling rice paper, while masks were somewhat less innocent.
3.1 Phillip Lim: The New Yorker offered a more relaxed spin on the city slicker’s pinstriped banker’s suiting for spring.
Kolor: After seasons of shying away from the well-trodden inspirations of military and sports in fashion, Junichi Abe made an about turn and decided to tackle them head on. In a palette consisting almost entirely of sober hues, the codes could be seen in a lightweight, camouflage printed trench and the utility patch pockets on his shirts and trousers.
Pierre Hardy: Showing within a suite at the recently opened Les Bains hotel, Pierre Hardy's S/S collection moved seamlessly between the formal and casual. A new take on camouflage blended both geometric and organic motifs covering totes, sheer scarves and espadrilles, which tied at the ankle
Haider Ackermann: In the light of the evening sunshine, Haider Ackermann presented his unique eclectic vision of menswear. A printed kimono shirt cinched in at the waist with a heavily strapped cummerbund teamed with super skinny pinstripe jeans and gold Lurex Chelsea boots epitomised the look.
Lemaire: Christophe Lemaire continued to advance his minimalist utilitarian aesthetic in a collection that seamlessly fused sportswear and workwear for spring. Highlights included bomber jacket-like shirts with zip-up fronts that could be worn in or out, high-rise loosely cut trousers and breezy jackets.
Carven: The French house made a fresh start this season with designer Barnabé Hardy at the helm. Shirts came printed with ginkgo leaves, and lightly quilted jackets with a swirling embroidered motifs, while butter soft leather bombers debuted a new zipper hardware - a C within a circle
Y/Project: Deep in the depths of a Paris nightclub, fledgling label Y/Project made an impact with a collection that distorted familiar sartorial items through a play on proportion and materials. City gent pinstripes appeared not in their uniform state, but here as an elongated vest and oversized trousers. Similarly, wide legged track pants came in leather and a trench coat in distressed denim
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Art, culture, watches & jewellery editor Hannah Silver’s gift guideFrom a Beryl Cook cushion to an offbeat diamond ring, there's something for everyone on this Wallpaper* editor's gift guide, embracing art, culture and style
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Feldspar makes its mark on Mayfair with a festive pop-up at Corinthia HotelDevon-based bone china brand Feldspar makes its first foray into shopkeeping with a pop-up at London’s Corinthia Hotel. Ali Morris speaks with the founders and peeks inside
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Dip into Wyld sauna: Liverpool's floating Finnish-style destination for lovers of extreme heatWyld sauna has opened in Liverpool, offering the perfect excuse to take a dive into the Nordic wellness tradition
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At home with Rick OwensAs California-born fashion designer Rick Owens is named one of the Wallpaper* USA 300 – a celebration of creative America – we revisit our conversation with Owens in the run-up to his S/S 2023 menswear show last year
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Acne Studios’ new Paris store combines classicism and countercultureOpening on Rue Saint-Honoré, the new store utilises Saint Maximin stone to monolithic effect. Here, Acne Studios’ creative director Jonny Johansson and architects Arquitectura-G tell Wallpaper* the story behind the project
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Lemaire celebrates Joseph E Yoakum's ‘spiritual unfoldments’Works by Native American folk artist Joseph E Yoakum inspire a capsule collection by Lemaire and go on show during Paris Fashion Week; we speak to the label’s founders
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Acne Studios’ A/W 2022 show set featured sunken living roomsFor Swedish brand Acne Studio’s A/W 2022 womenswear show at Paris Fashion Week, guests snuggled into sunken living rooms, swathed in cosy fake fur
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Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to HermèsIn this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek -
New York Fashion Week A/W 2021: drive thrus and digital distortionNew York Fashion Week's digital-first offering presented solutions to life post-pandemic and political crisis, from brands including Tom Ford, Proenza Schouler, Khaite and Collina Strada
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Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion WeekHow the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
