Piquadro launches a capsule collection designed by Antonio Marras
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Are you a 'Steve' (McQueen) or a 'Serge' (Gainsbourg)? A 'Franz' (Kafka) or a 'Jack' (Kerouak)? Antonio Marras, one of Milan's most creative fashion designers, put these questions to the audience at his latest show for the handbag house of Piquardo.
His capsule collection of multi-patched handbags, presented during Milan men's fashion week, was certainly a new step forward but the real originality came in his inventive installation: a series of tableaux vivants where the models emulated 'great travellers' of quintessential male-ness.
The characters posed, frozen, on stage sets within the gilded walls of Milan's Palazzo Clerici. There was Joseph Beuys with his rucksack, perched on his latest anthropomorphic art installation; and Bob Dylan on a stage littered with marker-scrawled posters. Alberto Giacometti sat with a briefcase in his studio amid several haunting sculptures, McQueen on his bike carrying a satchel.
To elaborate without interfering with the still-life, Marras handed out an iPad with headphones to each guest, where he'd downloaded images and recordings for each vignette.
Novelist and travel writer Bruce Chatwin is seen here as the character 'Bruce'
The character in this room is called 'Léonard', after Léonard Tsugouharu Foujita, a Japanese painter and artist who adopted the name Léonard as a tribute to Leonardo da Vinci. Foujita was apparently obsessed with cats
Watch the video to see Marras' tribute to 'Léonard'
Serge Gainsbourg inspired this character 'Serge'
The room 'Joseph' depicts artist Joseph Beuys with his rucksack
'Steve', duly named after Steve McQueen, perches on a bike with his 'Departures' satchel
From left: 'Georges' and 'Bob', inspired by Georges Simenon and Bob Dylan respectively
Franz Kafka, one of literary history's greatest figures, is portrayed here as 'Franz'
From left: Installation views of rooms dedicated to the characters 'Bruce' and 'Joseph'
From left: Novelist Jack Kerouac; Steve McQueen
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Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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