Rendez-Vous: Roger Vivier's demi-couture collection embarks on its latest world tour

It's not unusual for French haute couture houses such as Chanel or Christian Dior to fly their one-of-a-kind confections around the world accompanied by its petite mains, to visit clients for follow-up fittings, or in the case that they could not attend the maison's Paris show. It's a high-flying privilege that has quietly been extended to the world of accoutrements by the storied house of Roger Vivier.
Marrying couture's artisan expertise with the creative fluidity of prêt-à-porter, Roger Vivier creative director Bruno Frisoni's 'Rendez-Vous' collection has clocked up platinum frequent flyer status over the past seven seasons – thanks to the 12-city world tour that the limited edition collection enjoys every six months.
'I wanted to have something that would be a good substitute to couture actually,' explains Frisoni, who is in London this week to showcase his S/S 2014 line. 'Not that couture is not the right thing to do, just that it was not suiting me anymore. I wanted a shorter delivery and another way to look at things, so now they can buy a beautiful bag or a pair of shoes like they would buy an edition of a beautiful photo in an art gallery, he says, adding, 'And you also have the security, not to have everybody [wearing] the same thing!'
After Frisoni's latest Fall collection debuted in Paris during the recent couture shows (think Rue Saint-Honoré via a Far Eastern discothèque), his Spring 'Rendez-Vous' collection – which revived the 'Virgule' comma heel that Monsieur Vivier built his reputation on in 1963 – began its journey with an intimate cocktail reception, hosted by the designer and Madame Isabelle Emie, wife of the French Ambassador, at her Kensington Palace Gardens residence. 'It could be a private place, it could be a lunch', Frisoni explains, within the property's grand hall, as to the variety of events built around the shoe and bag collection.
Each season, Rendez-Vous journeys across the globe (from Taiwan to New York), remaining for no more than 24 hours in each destination – essentially just long enough for Frisoni's clients to be fitted with black satin lasts, representing each new design, from which only 20 pairs of each style will ever be made.
Offering a glimpse into his design process, Frisoni's now iconic watercolour illustrations accompany the house's invitations. 'Actually if you look at the little book [invitation],' he continues, 'the first one and the last one were the two first sketches I have done when thinking about Rendez-Vous. For working drawings I like to have fun when I look at them, pin them on the wall, instead of having a very precise thing that doesn't make sense to me.' Next stop: Milan and then Tokyo, where the chaussure voyage continues.
'A/W was about central Asia and the disco ball – totally covered in crystals,' explains Roger Vivier creative director Bruno Frisoni. 'Every piece has the disco ball as the signature closure'
Couture beading techniques unite the collection's clutch and ankle boots
Frisoni's signature watercolour illustrations offer a glimpse into his design process
Inside Roger Vivier's Paris atelier, where the latest Rendez-Vous collection made its debut last week during the haute couture shows. The showroom was clad in Oriental rugs for the occasion, partly inspired by the work of Italian artist Rudolf Stingel
A watercolour illustration by Frisoni of pieces from the A/W 2014-15 collection
Bruno Frisoni, meanwhile, was in London this week where he and Madame Isabelle Emie, wife of the French Ambassador, hosted an intimate cocktail reception at her Kensington Palace Gardens residence to celebrate the start of his S/S 2014 Rendez-Vous collection's world tour
The S/S 2014 collection on display in the French Ambassador's residence in London, first unveiled during the couture shows last July. The collection will move onto Milan, and then Tokyo
Marrying couture's artisan expertise with the creative fluidity of prêt-à-porter, Frisoni's Rendez-Vous collection has clocked up platinum frequent flyer status over the past seven seasons
At the Rendez-Vous events, clients are fitted with black satin lasts, representing each new design, from which only 20 pairs of each style will ever be made
The 'Virgule' comma heel leads on from the the first created by Monsier Vivier in 1963
An illustration of Frisoni's S/S 2014 'Plastique Cristal' designs
Bugle beaded sling-backs from the S/S 2014 Rendez-Vous collection
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Revolutionary Apple icon designer Susan Kare unveils a playful jewellery and objet collaboration with Asprey Studio
Asprey Studio's new collection, Esc Keys, brings digital artworks by Susan Kare to life
By Hannah Silver Published
-
What is the role of fragrance in contemporary culture, asks a new exhibition at 10 Corso Como
Milan concept store 10 Corso Como has partnered with London creative agency System Preferences to launch Olfactory Projections 01
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
Jack White's Third Man Records opens a Paris pop-up
Jack White's immaculately-branded record store will set up shop in the 9th arrondissement this weekend
By Charlotte Gunn Published
-
‘What is beauty?’: Balenciaga’s Demna on creating thoroughly modern haute couture
Balenciaga creative director Demna opens up to Wallpaper* about his transformative haute couture collections, which instil a mood of modernity into the most traditional of mediums
By Dal Chodha Published
-
Haute Couture Week S/S 2024: Fendi to Maison Margiela Artisanal
Haute Couture Week S/S 2024 took place in Paris this week, representing the pinnacle of French style and savoir-faire in some of the season’s most opulent runway presentations
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Forever Valentino: inside the Italian house’s most comprehensive exhibition yet
Qatar Museums and Maison Valentino present ‘Forever Valentino’, an homage to founder Valentino Garavani which spans 1959 to present day
By Martha Elliott Published
-
Kim Jones mines the Dior archives and couture techniques to embellish the modern man
By Dal Chodha Last updated
-
The quiet couturier: inside the world of Bouchra Jarrar
By Dan Thawley Last updated
-
Frieze frame: Roger Vivier teams up with Ambra Medda on a limited-edition Miss Viv'
By Katrina Israel Last updated
-
Haute happenings: Tales from the Paris Couture Spring/Summer 2014 season
By Dan Thawley Last updated
-
Christian Lacroix's couture collection for Schiaparelli presented in Paris
By Amy Verner Last updated