At the inaugural 2017 Desert X biennal in the Coachella Valley, American artist Doug Aitken created the land art installation Mirage, a mirrored house reflecting its arid, shrub-lined environment on its fractured façade. The structure was designed to act as a visual echo-chamber, informed by the architectural philosophies of Frank Lloyd Wright, who believed architecture should exist inside and outside of the landscape.
Last night in Venice, a stream of Saint Laurent models weaved around another futuristic Aitken structure, situated like a shining spaceship among the lush plants and trees of Isola della Certosa. Titled Green Lens, the mirrored living artwork was commissioned by the Parisian maison and formed the breathtaking backdrop to its S/S 2022 menswear show, the first physical catwalk presentation held by the brand since the Covid-19 pandemic began.
‘Green Lens is a living artwork. It is simultaneously an artwork, installation and stage. It’s like a lighthouse that one can journey to and have a very personal experience, while it also transmits light, ideas and questions. A focal point that allows all of us to share our ideas and visions for the future post Covid... a celebration and inquiry into the future,’ Aitken explains of the intention behind the artwork, which is on view to the public throughout July, and will be the location of thought-provoking performances and coversations.
Saint Laurent artistic director Anthony Vaccarello also offered visual inquiries into the future, creating a collection that interwove reflective elements from the past, like billowing Victorian capes, Glam Rock vertiginous platform boots, New Romantic frilled blousons and tailored jacquard trousers, and punky denim gilets. Like Aitken's sculpture, which emphasised mankind's present moment, situated somewhere in trepidatious time between the start and end of the Covid-19 pandemic, the Saint Laurent S/S 2022 collection riffed on genres through time to posit clothing for the present.
‘From the exterior [Green Lens] creates a choreography of changing reflections of clouds, mist and wild green vegetation. As day turns to night it glows and becomes a kinetic light sculpture and sound composition,’ Aitken adds.
INFORMATION
-
Year in review: Barbie to Snoop Dogg, the starriest design collaborations of 2024Design collabs went stellar as Snoop Dogg & Dr Dre served up Gin & Juice with Ini Archibong; Michael Bennett showcased lighting with Gantri; and Barbie turned Kartell furniture pink
-
RollAway Hospitality describe their all-electric RV as a luxurious suite on wheelsA Californian start-up combines zero emission tech with expert packaging to create a designer camping experience
-
‘I’m always looking for something weird’: Palace’s Lev Tanju on his new role as creative director for Fila+Wallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss sits down with Lev Tanju as the Palace founder brings his unabashed love of clothes to a new role as creative director of Fila+
-
Summer games, from pétanque to pool floats, get a fashionable spinFrom a luxurious pétanque set to pool floats and playing cards, summer games and toys from the world’s best-known fashion houses
-
Aaron Esh on his subversive menswear, inspired by friends‘It’s about taking something authentic, the people that I know, the clothes they wear,’ says Aaron Esh, the recent Central Saint Martins graduate making menswear inspired by his native east London
-
Sharp edge: A/W 2022 menswear, inspired by the undergroundPhotographed by George Harvey, an edit of menswear looks encapsulating this season’s nocturnal mood – from Balenciaga to Loewe
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Dior recreates Paris bridge, Pont Alexandre III, for A/W 2022 showDior recreated Paris’ landmark bridge, Pont Alexandre III, for its A/W 2022 menswear show, which took place on 21 January 2022, the date of Christian Dior’s birthday
-
Kenzo returns to Galerie Vivienne for Nigo’s A/W 2022 show debutFor his debut, A/W 2022 Kenzo show, the brand’s new creative director Nigo chose Paris’ Galerie Vivienne, the location of founder Kenzo Takada’s first boutique
-
Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022: Prada to FendiA Prada catwalk peppered with Hollywood stars; menswear's new erogenous zones and a modern take on classic silhouettes: all you need to know about Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022
-
Men’s fashion week A/W 2022: all you need to knowThe locations, the brands, the buzz: our expert guide to men’s fashion week A/W 2022
