S/S 2011 Menswear Collections, Paris: grooming trends

Dior Homme: Smooth, slicked back hair, by hairstylist Paul Hanlon, goes a long way at Dior Homme

(Image credit: TBC)

last updated 17 August 2022

side profile head shot of male model

Dior Homme: Designer Kris Van Assche’s futuristic vision of the Dior man called for flawless skin, courtesy of make-up artist Aaron de Mey

(Image credit: TBC)

back of male models head with slick back hair — Dior Homme: In contrast to the billowing silhouettes on the runway, the sophisticated, minimalist look was even more effective

male model head shot with slick hair and blue eyes — Dries Van Noten: To complement the idiosyncratic references to 1970s street culture showcased on Dries Van Noten’s runway, hairstylist Paul Hanlon looked to London ska boys and skinheads for inspiration

male model head shot looking to left side with smoothed over hair — Dries Van Noten: Hair was polished yet tough, thanks to rounded fringes sweeping severely across the forehead

back of male model head with smoothed downhair — Dries Van Noten: The overall look was youthful with a hint of European elegance

male model to the left of the frame wearing a beige blazer, long fringe and glasses — Viktor & Rolf: Viktor & Rolf’s Spring 2011 collection loosely referenced Hollywood stars from the 1940s holidaying in Biarritz

male model wearing shirt, tie and blazer, long textured fringe and glasses — Viktor & Rolf: Heavily textured hair still managed to look polished, thanks to the stylings of hairstylist, Christoph Hasenbein

male model wearing black shirt, glasses and long textured fringe — Viktor & Rolf: Make-up artist Victor Alvarez gave models lightly bronzed skin, recalling Hollywood’s glory days

male model wearing blue suit and slick back hair — Dunhill: Using Bumble & Bumble products, hairstylist James Rowe conjured up a smart style that’s far from rigid to represent the new relaxed Dunhill man

Male modeling looking to the left with smoothed back hair and wearing blue suit — Dunhill: Make-up maestro Peter Phillips gave models a natural, healthy look that’s fresh from walking in the countryside

back of male models head wearing blue suit, blonde hair smoothed back — Dunhill: The overall look complements designer Kim Jones’ inspiration: Roger Fry and the artsy Bloomsbury set

male model with dark textured hair looking to the left — John Galliano: Always one to put on a show, John Galliano’s version of Charlie Chaplin could not have been more on the money

male model head shot with rumpled hair and smokey eyes — John Galliano: The conventional film noir look is brought into the 21st century, thanks to rumpled hair, smoky eyes and gleaming skin

back of male model hair with dark rumpled hair — John Galliano: Wet-look curls make a comeback for Spring 2011

Male model with blue vest, wavy textured hair and dark framed glasses — Jean Paul Gaultier: Backstage, the team helmed by make-up artist Carole Colambani and hairstylist Delphine Corteille kept photographs of YSL to hand as references

Male model in blue vest and dark framed glasses looking down to the left — Jean Paul Gaultier: No prizes for guessing whom Gaultier reincarnated this season - Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakech circa 1970

tousled hair on back of male models head — Jean Paul Gaultier: Textured hair was key, some models wore glossy, tousled locks, while others worked a more edgy, natural look to match Gaultier’s Moroccan inspiration

head shot of male model with short dark hair — Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci: To match Riccardo Tisci’s black and white exploration of lust and piety, faces were given an ethereal touch of pink on the eyes and lips

male model with short dark hair looking to the left — Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci: Models were a perfect picture of austerity

back of male models head with short dark hair — Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci: Hair was close-cropped or scraped back

male model head shot with dark hair and short beard — Hermes: The Spring 2011 Hermes man was the epitome of modern luxury

Male model with dark hair and short beard looking to the right — Hermes: A little light grooming was all that was needed to underscore the collection’s quiet elegance

back of male model with dark tousled hair — Hermes: Tousled, feathery manes gave models a relaxed, Mediterranean vibe

male model headshot with light hair styled upwards

Kris Van Assche: It was all about getting down and dirty at Kris Van Assche, whose workwear-influenced collection inspired this rebellious look

(Image credit: TBC)

profile shot of male model with light hair that has been styled

Kris Van Assche: … while hair was tousled with pin-up worthy nonchalance

(Image credit: TBC)

back of male model head with short and styled hair — Kris Van Assche: … while hair was tousled with pin-up worthy nonchalance

Male model head shot with hair voluminous and slicked back — Lanvin: Lanvin models worked edgy, windswept hair to coincide with the collection’s energetic feel

profile shot of male model looking to the left with short styled hair

Lanvin: Skin was kept light and ethereal to further emphasise the sense of movement

(Image credit: TBC)

back of male models head with styled hair — Lanvin: Mirroring the textural, unfinished quality of the clothing, the look was sophisticated, yet not too polished

male model with long fringe and chest tattoo under thin vest — Paul Smith: Paul Smith traded in his signature Sixties’ Mod for dirtier,1970s rock this season

side profile of male model with dark hair and long fringe

Paul Smith: Models were reincarnated as rock and rollers, with a modern twist

(Image credit: TBC)

male model looking over his right shoulder with dark hair and long fringe — Paul Smith: Hair was voluminous and slightly shiny for an authentic, grungy feel

head shot of male model with textured and styled hair — Raf Simons: Paul Hanlon worked his hair magic once more, giving models’ mops an innocent, easy texture

male model looking to the left with styled hair — Raf Simons: Fresh, luminous skin was the perfect foil to Simons’ predominantly white collection

back of male models head with neat and styled hair — Raf Simons: No one does avant-garde like Raf Simons, his collections are never contrived

male model with shoulder length brown hair — Rick Owens: Androgyny was the order of day at Rick Owens

side profile of male model with brown shoulder length hair

Rick Owens: Models were imbued with a post-apocalyptic austerity and serenity

(Image credit: TBC)

back of male models head with brown shoulder length hair — Rick Owens: Hair by Luigi, make-up by Aaron de Mey

head shot of male model with styled back hair — Louis Vuitton: At Louis Vuitton, a new take on the global traveller resulted in this glamorous, slicked back ruffled coif by hairstylist Shon

male model with slick back hair looking down to the left — Louis Vuitton: Make-up artist Sil Bruinsma gave models’ skin a glow with a hint of colour

headshot of male model in blue shirt and shaved hair

Walter Van Bierendonck: In contrast to his playful collection, complete with frills and ruffles, Walter Van Bierendonck’s models were kept looking as natural as possible

(Image credit: TBC)

side profile of male model in blue shirt and shaved hair

Walter Van Bierendonck: Models were the epitome of masculinity, sporting freshly shorn hair

(Image credit: TBC)

back of male models head with shaved hair — Walter Van Bierendonck: The designer’s fearless approach has won him numerous fans, including Rei Kawakubo

male model with slicked back styled hair — Yves Saint Laurent: Stefano Pilati also paid tribute to the 1970s vision of Yves Saint Laurent, opting for a pared back, yet sophisticated take on the icon

male model with slicked back styled hair looking to the right — Yves Saint Laurent: The pale complexions worked well with the relaxed, androgynous silhouettes that went down the runway

back of male model with slicked back hair — Yves Saint Laurent: Make-up by Carole Colambani, hair by Delphine Corteille

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

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