The grooming trends that defined Paris Fashion Week A/W 2014

AW 14 B Dries Van Noten
(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Dries Van Noten: Make-up artist Peter Philips kept faces bare in contrast to the designer's neon-hued show, with bold black eyes that spoke of 1960s block minimalism. The look was completely in tune with Van Noten's Op-Art patterns, spirals and swirls

AW 14 B Gareth Pugh


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Gareth Pugh: Alex Box fashioned a flock of pared-down Marie Antoinettes for Gareth Pugh's show. Woven hairnets and chalky faces, set against Pugh's striking, ice white silhouettes, were reminiscent of a resplendent Louis XVI style, stripped back to 'nude beginnings…an innocent, raw sketch'

Goga Ashkenazi's architectural collection for Vionnet was notable for its lack of embellishment


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Vionnet: Goga Ashkenazi's architectural collection for Vionnet was notable for its lack of embellishment; Tom Pecheux's make-up direction for the show was no different. Eyes proved to be the focus and were kept simple and strong with structural black spikes - think Twiggy with a twist

Tom Pecheux created 'natural' Balmain girls this season.


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Balmain: Tom Pecheux created 'natural' Balmain girls this season. Bare-faced beauty 'with a little brow' was the look, as Balmain's leathers, exotic prints and safari khakis were complemented by nude skin and sharp centre-partings. Both raw and wild, it ferociously declared that the no-makeup trend is here to stay

AW 14 B Rick Owens


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Rick Owens: With the smoothest of ivory skin and artfully untamed brows, the models (and real women) cast at Rick Owens were transformed into 'other worldly' creatures by Lucia Pieroni

AW 14 B Lanvin


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Lanvin: Cat's eyes were given the smoky treatment by Pat McGrath at Lanvin. Luscious false lashes were trimmed into blocks to frame dense black lids, creating a pack of dark and dangerous femmes fatales. Hair, if not hidden by elaborate headgear, was immaculately groomed, contrasting with the scruffy eye make-up

AW 14 B Isabel Marant


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Isabel Marant: With faces left au naturel, the Isabel Marant girls glowed as Sam McKnight's beach-fresh tresses lent an air of nonchalant glamour

AW 14 B Maison Martin Margiela


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Maison Martin Margiela: Peter Philips created a harmony of opposites, artfully balancing the masculine with the super-feminine for Maison Martin Margiela - mirroring the collection. Modestly minimal make-up, mature and unfussy hair (by Guido Palau) and brushed brows - often creating an androgynous look - were tempered with faintly blushing lips and sparkling eyes

Pat McGrath was on hand to turn models into glam-rock goddesses at Dior with glitzy metallic eyes


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Christian Dior: Pat McGrath was on hand to turn models into glam-rock goddesses at Dior with glitzy metallic eyes and Ziggy Stardust cheekbones, perfectly matched to the girls' sculptural, swept-back hair

AW 14 B Roland Mouret


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Roland Mouret: Giving the models' full lips, slender brows and hair as poker-straight as Pocahontas', Val Garland created the 'native American girl in the Roland Mouret style' - that being stylish, timeless and feminine. Strong, black eye make-up kept the look on the right side of safe

AW 14 B Haider


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Haider Ackermann: Yadim created a 'blue print of a deconstructed society woman' at Haider Ackermann. Hair was kept in 1950s turbans, as though straight from a Billy Wilder movie, and slender strands of elastic were glued in graphic arches onto brows, creating a mob of modern-day Marlene Dietrichs

AW 14 B Acne


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Acne Studios: Aaron de Mey highlighted unearthly pale skin with lip gloss at Acne, giving the girls a hi-shine appearance, straight out of hyperspace. Lips, meanwhile, were emphatically matte. Combined with Anthony Turner's wet-look hair, it made the models look extraterrestrial, perfectly in keeping with some of the collection's more futuristic pieces

The Chloé girl was natural and wild looking this season, with wide eyes and flowing hair.


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Chloé: The Chloé girl was natural and wild looking this season, with wide eyes and flowing hair. Eyelids the colour of lilacs, dewy skin and flowing Botticelli-inspired locks signalled the arrival of a fresh, bright and modern antidote to the colder months

The look at Kenzo was '1950s with a slight punk edge'.


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Kenzo: The look at Kenzo was '1950s with a slight punk edge'. The edge in question came courtesy of Aaron de Mey, who electrified vintage flicks with Klein blue liner. Skin was otherwise left demurely bare

AW 14 B Givenchy


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Givenchy: Pat McGrath at Givenchy reminded us that statement brows aren't going anywhere. Brushed-up, bushy and bleached, they were central to a futuristic Snow Queen look, amplified by strong, highlighted cheekbones in glimmering fawn and fierce bronze

Diane Kendal and Guido Palau kept things light and crisp at Akris


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Akris: Diane Kendal and Guido Palau kept things light and crisp at Akris, with drenched hair scraped back off the face and hardly a scrap of make-up on the models' lightly honeyed skin. Bleached brows and flash-bulb highlights kept things up to date

AW 14 B Giambattista Valli


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Giambattista Valli: The designer enlisted Val Garland to create this season's 'handsome heroes'. Massaging moisturiser rather than make-up onto the models' faces, Garland gave their skin a subtle, pearly sheen, suggestive of the 'beauty and simplicity of really perfect-looking natural skin'

The heavy layers and rich palette of Sacai's collection were contrasted by barely-there make-up and loose faux-bobs


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Sacai: The heavy layers and rich palette of Sacai's collection were contrasted by barely-there make-up and loose faux-bobs, fashioned by tucking the models' glossy hair into their collars. The resulting look was low-maintenance and effortlessly cool

Pat McGrath's girls at Stella McCartney were the picture of easy-going


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Stella McCartney: Pat McGrath's girls at Stella McCartney were the picture of easy-going, carefree youth, with quiet smudges of caramel sitting above untouched lashes and just a slight semblance of a blooming blush on the cheeks. Otherwise, lightly golden skin was left nude, suggesting fading memories of the summer's sun

Pat McGrath transformed the models at Alexander McQueen into otherworldly warrior women.


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Alexander McQueen: Using rich metallics to contour otherwise ethereally pale skin, Pat McGrath transformed the models at Alexander McQueen into otherworldly warrior women. Hair was tightly woven into cornrowed skullcaps, leaving elfin ears revealed, creating an entrancing breed of mystical creatures

AW 14 B Moncler


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Moncler Gamme Rouge: With heavy fur hats and collars rising high, negligible skin was on show at Moncler Gamme Rouge. Consequently, Val Garland needed to keep things simple. These pristine beauties had nothing but a touch of barely-there eye shadow and the faintest gloss on pale pink lips, becoming the archetypal 'urban kids…global, young and fresh'

AW 14 B Hermes


(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Hermès: With their sweeping side-partings and delicately rosy lips, models at Hermès emanated a subtle, turn-of-the-century vibe, utterly compatible with the collection's stealth silhouettes and Silk Road prints

Read more
Simone Rocha A/W 2025 model
Simone Rocha A/W 2025 beauty: an embellished twist on ‘overplucked eyebrows’
Prada A/W 2025
Prada A/W 2025’s ‘dishevelled’ beauty look confronted the big tech algorithm
Abra A/W 2025
Abra’s A/W 2025 beauty look embraced the 1980s with furry wigs and ‘greige’ lipstick
Chanel A/W 2025 runway show at Paris Fashion Week A/W 2025
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2025 highlights: Chanel to Saint Laurent
Pat McGrath's make-up backstage at Marc Jacobs S/S 2025
Pat McGrath collages make-up onto faces for Marc Jacobs S/S 2025
AW25 Runway Trends Takeaways
The Wallpaper* A/W 2025 trend report: raw glamour, waistlines and an animal instinct
Latest in Fashion & Beauty Events
Everything Must Change Sharna Osbourne Martine Rose Sadie Coles Film Exhibition
Martine Rose’s first gallery show celebrates the radical queer energy of Bronski Beat
Pharrell Williams takes bow at Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2025
Met Gala 2025 and ‘Superfine: Tailoring Black Style’ exhibition: everything we know so far
Vuitton Listing Image
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind café
Tatras Tokyo Ginza Store Interiors
Japanese outerwear label Tatras’ expansive new Tokyo store finds ‘beauty in contrast’
A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake fashion looks
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
John Lobb Saint Crepin Brogue Shoes
These limited-edition John Lobb brogues pay ode to the patron saint of shoemaking
Latest in Feature
the toteme store in China by herzog & de meuron
Bold, geometric minimalism rules at Toteme’s new store by Herzog & de Meuron in China
lo scoglio byron bay review
Wallpaper* checks in at Lo Scoglio: an Australian vacation rental with regenerative principles
zaha hadid architects future projects
The upcoming Zaha Hadid Architects projects set to transform the horizon
black and white image of kitchen
‘La Cocina’: the kitchen is a chaotic melting pot of contemporary culture in Alonso Ruizpalacios’ new film
lean lui guide to hong kong
A local’s guide to Hong Kong, by photographer Lean Lui
people at watch show
What can we expect from Watches and Wonders 2025?