The grooming trends that shaped Milan Fashion Week S/S 2015

Sam McKnight pulled hair into loose ponytails with bright-coloured leather corsages at Fendi.
Fendi: Sam McKnight pulled hair into loose ponytails, secured at the nape of the neck with bright-coloured leather corsages at Fendi. However, the star of this show was no doubt the girls' graphic blue eyeliner; the bold colour offered a focal point to the otherwise clean faces defined by Peter Philips
(Image credit: Fendi)
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an image of model with softly smoky eye with bare lips

Gucci: This season the Milanese house demonstrated how a softly smoky eye can also work well in summer. When paired with bare lips and matte skin – save for a touch of highlighter on the high points of the face – the girls' darker eye shadows didn't look heavy at all. Hair, on the other hand, was softly slicked back into a classic ponytail, leaving the make-up as the focal point

(Image credit: Gucci)

Fresh, dewy skin and juicy pink lips gave enhanced look to the model

Emporio Armani: Fresh, dewy skin and juicy pink lips formed the backdrop for Linda Cantello's strong-eye look at Emporio Armani. Moving away from a graphic shape but keeping with the bold colour trend – and taking her cue from the bright blue that appeared in the collection – Cantello smudged a shimmering, intense cornflower to the lids. Roberta Bellazzi pulled hair away from the face in loose chignons, but added in a little height at the crown

(Image credit: Emporio Armani)

Clean, straight hair and skin completely bare with a light dusting of powder

Jil Sander: Front of house we were celebrating Jil Sander's new creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga, while backstage the stalwart team of Guido Palau and Pat McGrath ensured the minimalist continuity of the house's hair and make-up direction. Clean, straight hair was brushed into side partings. Skin was left almost completely bare with a light dusting of powder. Brows were combed and filled as necessary, with just a touch of mascara to subtly enhance lashes

(Image credit: Jil Sander)

The model was given a silvery shimmery shadow Hair pulled back into low ponytails

Marco de Vincenzo: A reinterpreted archive fabric was the starting point for a collection that focused on rich, varied materials. With that in mind, the make-up direction needed to be pared-back so as not to compete. Skin was perfected with a heavier foundation, but the focus was around the eyes: brows were pushed up to emphasise the frame and a silvery, shimmery shadow was brushed onto the lids. Hair was pulled back into low ponytails, with side parting, as was the trend this season

(Image credit: Marco de Vincenzo)

This 20th anniversary collection looked back at some core elements of the Marni aesthetic,

Marni: This 20th anniversary collection looked back at some core elements of the Marni aesthetic, and most notably the line between raw, organic and man-made. To that end, S/S 2015's beauty persuasion suggested minimal intervention. Tom Pecheux used barely any make-up for spring, focusing instead on priming skin to be so dewy, it looked almost as if the models had just stepped in from a rain storm. Hair was slicked back away from the face, with some strands caught up in the dewy highlight of the skin

(Image credit: Marni)

The makeup done by Tom Pecheux and hair by Sam McKnight gave a vibrant look to the model

Max Mara: A strong eyeliner shape popped up yet again at Max Mara, although this time by Tom Pecheux. Red is ordinarily a challenging colour to employ around the eye, but by using a vibrant, primary shade in a graphic shape, eyes looked sharp and striking, rather than tired. Sam McKnight left hair loose and long with a side parting, to soften the overall look

(Image credit: Max Mara)

he theme for S/S 2015 at Armani was sand

Giorgio Armani: The theme for S/S 2015 at Armani was sand, which was also reflected in the show's make-up through the use of soft, earthy colours and shimmery taupes worn with a brighter white eyeliner to keep the eyes wide. Hair looked windswept but artfully so, with soft wisps framing the face

(Image credit: Giorgio Armani)

Jeremy Scott's muse this season was Barbie and the hair and make-up stayed true to the three cornerstones

Moschino: Jeremy Scott's muse this season was Barbie and the hair and make-up stayed true to the three cornerstones of her iconic look: lips, lashes and locks. Lips were coated in bright bubblegum lipstick, lashes were long and hair was piled high with cascading curls

(Image credit: Moschino)

Make-up done by Tom Pecheux and hair stylist Paul Hanlon gave a fantastic look

No. 21: While other brands focused on the eyes, Tom Pecheux put the emphasis on lips at No. 21. A rich, vampy berry (Alessandro dell'Acqua spoke of an 'exquisitely Italian' taste for luscious colours) was the centrepoint of an otherwise bare make-up look. Paul Hanlon left hair super-natural and air-dried to contrast with the precision of the lipstick application

(Image credit: No. 21)

MAC products were used by Tom Pecheux to create a lively look

Philipp Plein: To complement a collection inspired by the ocean, make-up was concentrated around the eyes at Philipp Plein. Tom Pecheux used MAC products to create a lived-in look. Skin was softly bronzed and glowing. For hair, Orlando Pita created strong, slicked-back side partings, falling in loose curls

(Image credit: Philipp Plein)

The house presented a pretty, pearly look for spring.

Ports 1961: The house presented a pretty, pearly look for spring. A gold-tinged apricot eyeshadow was washed over the lids and tear duct, along with plenty of mascara on the lashes for a wide-awake look. Hair was fixed with a centre parting and brushed out in waves throughout the length

(Image credit: Ports 1961)

An intense black cat eye was drawn by Pat McGrath

Prada: The most classic incarnation of this season's graphic eyeliner was shown at Prada. An intense black cat eye was drawn by Pat McGrath, with a dramatic lift at the corner of the eye. Brows, too, were given a graphic treatment with a sharp line at the top of each brow and the natural hairs filled in below. Hair was kept back from the face in a ponytail, but with strands pulled forward to frame the face

(Image credit: Prada)

Lisa Butler bronzed the skin lightly, and brought definition to the eye with a darker crease

Emilio Pucci: Befitting the carefree, bohemian vibe of the Pucci girl and her summer wardrobe, Orlando Pita kept hair long and beachy. Lisa Butler bronzed the skin lightly, and brought definition to the eye with a darker crease colour – plus plenty of mascara

(Image credit: Emilio Pucci)

Pat McGrath gave a subtle make up look and hair done by Guido Palau and his team

Roberto Cavalli: Though the collection was called 'The Light of Summer', muted, shimmery greys and purples brought a subtle smokiness to Pat McGrath's make-up for spring. Brows were pushed up but the rest of the face was left fresh and clear. Hair was simply straightened and parted by Guido Palau and his team

(Image credit: Roberto Cavalli)

Diane Kendal brought an earthy freshness to the models' faces at Salvatore Ferragamo.

Salvatore Ferragamo: Diane Kendal brought an earthy freshness to the models' faces at Salvatore Ferragamo. A light terracotta on the eyes was tied together with bronzed skin and slicked-back hair by Anthony Turner

(Image credit: Salvatore Ferragamo)

Earth tones were seen again at Sportmax with oranges and light browns used around the eyes

Sportmax: Earth tones were seen again at Sportmax with oranges and light browns used around the eyes in addition to delicate, soft pink lips. Hair, too, seemed to combine several seasonal trends, pulled back into a ponytail yet leaving wispy fringes behind, lightly misted with water to look dewy

(Image credit: Sportmax)

Soft, shimmery white highlighter was used on all the high points of the face.

Versace: Donatella Versace spoke of a 'fresh, new Versace' this season and the make-up direction was a beautiful example of the ways cosmetics can impart a youthful glow. Soft, shimmery white highlighter was used on all the high points of the face. Subtle pink blush on the cheeks and a matching colour on the lips suggested vitality. Brows were filled. The hair was pulled away from the face but with some added volume

(Image credit: Versace)

Pat McGrath reflected this in her make-up by building a stronger flush to the cheeks.

Bottega Veneta: Tomas Maier was inspired by the body in movement and conceived the idea of the dancer en route to rehearsal for spring. Pat McGrath reflected this in her make-up by building a stronger flush to the cheeks. Hair was pulled back into loose ballerina buns, softly framing the face

(Image credit: Bottega Veneta)

Dsquared2 has always kept its make-up look minimal.

Dsquared2: Generally known for outlandish fashion, Dsquared2 has always kept its make-up look minimal. In keeping with the earthy colour trend we've seen this season, Gordon Espinet and the MAC Pro team added a little gloss to warm, rusty eyeshadow that was framed with plenty of mascara on both the top and bottom lashes. The models' hair was then softly side parted to frame their shimmering faces

(Image credit: Dsquared2)
Alice Shaughnessy
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