Why seersucker is integral to Thom Browne’s design DNA
The brand's ‘Seersucker season' S/S 2020 offering celebrates the preppy puckered fabric, which first attracted its founder in his youth

Thom Browne is usually spotted sporting a slate grey suit of his own design, favouring in warmer months, a knee-length short style that reflects his obsession with preppy Ivy League dress codes. As a child, the first summer suit which Browne’s mother bought him was cut in lightweight seersucker cotton. ‘It was always part of my life…summer life…’ Browne explains, of the striped puckered fabric, first used in men’s suiting in 1909 by tailor Joseph Haspel in New Orleans, which today riffs on rumpled elegance and is essential to the designer’s take on American prep.
For Browne’s S/S 2020 women’s show, the designer was keen to immerse guests in his favourite fabric, creating a garden of Versailles-like show set in Paris, created entirely in grey and white stripe seersucker fabric. Seersucker roses grew from the ground and tongue-in-cheek urinating cherub statues were also swathed in the crumpled fabric. Browne bought his Wasp-y world to 18th century silhouettes, pairing saccharine seersucker suiting with architectural panniers, sported by models in towering Pompadour wigs and twizzling straw boater hats on sticks.
‘This is the uniform for everyone’s summer wardrobe,’ adds Browne. For men, short suits were imagined in an array of vibrant striped hues, from candyfloss pink to cornflower. The beauty of the fabric lies in its everyday ease. It’s infinitely elegant, yet gains even more aesthetic beauty as the fabric develops another time-worn wrinkle. Browne's silhouettes will withstand a gamut of garden parties, and they're best sported when lounging in a deck chair, sipping a strong cocktail and staring at a bed of roses, be they from the designer's Versailles-inspired landscape, or in their natural state.
RELATED STORY
Thom Browne's S/S 2020 womenswear show set
INFORMATION
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
At this secret NYC hangout, the drinks are strong and the vibes are stronger
For People's bar, Workstead serves up a good time
By Anna Fixsen
-
‘Fall Guy’ director David Leitch takes us inside his breathtaking Los Angeles home
For movie power couple David Leitch and Kelly McCormick, interior designer Vanessa Alexander crafts a home with the ultimate Hollywood ending
By Anna Fixsen
-
Real or imaginary? Step inside the alternate world of Jeff Wall's photographs
Jeff Wall's major show at MAAT in Portugal dives into four decades of the photographer's career
By Emily Steer
-
Thom Browne A/W 2019 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Marta Represa
-
Thom Browne at Paris Fashion Week Women’s S/S 2019
By Marta Represa
-
Diller Scofidio + Renfro on the divine design of the MET’s ‘Heavenly Bodies’ exhibition
By Pei-Ru Keh
-
Bright idea: Moncler unveils Genius Building at Milan Fashion Week
By Laura Hawkins
-
Thom Browne A/W 2018
By Dal Chodha
-
Thom Browne S/S 2018
By Marta Represa
-
Thom Browne S/S 2018
By Dal Chodha
-
Thom Browne A/W 2017
By Ann Binlot