Tom Ford Q&A
Come Saturday, the fashion crowd descends on Milan to see Men’s Spring Summer 09 collections and one name will be on everyone’s lips: Tom Ford. It’s been four long years since Mr Ford vacated the creative director position at Gucci but he’s returning to Milan in timely style to open his first retail store in Europe. Fashion notables will be given a walk around the five floor, 9,000 sq ft space at Via Verri 3, on Monday 23rd, in the middle of fashion week. But we couldn’t wait till then so quizzed the man himself a few days before to find out how he feels about returning to the city where he made his name...
We love your label for its unapologetic formality. Where does your passion for formal dressing come from?
Formality feels right to me right now. At a time when fashion is getting increasingly more casual and broken down, I think that 'dressing up' shows that the wearer has self-respect and respect for the people around him. Maybe it is also a reaction against all the trends out there in menswear at the moment. Formal is just how I want to dress right now.
What inspires you?
I am inspired by everything around me.
What does it mean for you to be opening a store of your own label, under your own name, in Milan particularly, given the success you had here under Gucci?
It is great to be doing something that is purely 100% my own taste, my own vision, my own creation from the ground up. It is also wonderful to be returning to Milan which is one of my favorite cities in the world. It is not only Italy’s fashion capital, but it is also the Italian home of luxury menswear.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Do you see a progression in your work as a designer?
The progression of my work as a designer very much follows the progression of myself as a person. As I grow older, I see myself and the world differently. I have different role models and different values. Authenticity has become increasingly important to me in my life and in my work.
What bespoke services are available in your Milan store?
We will offer the same made-to-measure services in all of our Tom Ford flagship stores. It is not a bespoke service from the ground up. We work off four different bases, we take your measurements, work out which base is right for you, modify it, send it to our factory, and when it comes back we have a sample room in the store where we can do dramatic alterations. When you go to a bespoke tailor, you can have almost anything made. When you come to us, you come for a certain Tom Ford look and then it’s modified. This is a hybrid that did not exist. We offer much more customization than you can get from any other design company. At the same time, it has more of a personal stamp than Savile Row.
This is your second flagship – how many more have you planned, where and when?
We will be opening directly operated Tom Ford flagship stores in Milan, London, Los Angeles, and Las Vegas over the next 2 years as well as free standing stores in Baku, Moscow, Dubai, and Puerto Banus which will total over 100 free-standing Tom Ford retail stores worldwide over the next 10 years. We have also just opened a shop this spring in Zurich, with shops in Daslu, Bergdorf's, Harry Rosen, Lane Crawford Hong Kong and Neiman Marcus to follow in September.
Is retail design more significant now than it was 10 years ago?
Retail design has always been significant in helping to define a brand and has become more important than ever as the entire luxury industry has become more homogenised. More than ever, the brand experience is, in part, determined by the retail space.
You’ve turned your hand to fashion, accessories, beauty and fragrance. Have you any plans to branch into homeware?
For the moment, we are focusing on the existing categories and have no plans to branch into homeware.
What single thing would improve the quality of your life?
More time.
Describe Tom Ford in three words.
Loyal, shy, perfectionist.
Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
-
Wallpaper* checks in at the refreshed W Hollywood: ‘more polish and less party’
The W Hollywood introduces a top-to-bottom reimagining by the Rockwell Group, capturing the genuine warmth and spirit of Southern California
By Carole Dixon Published
-
Book a table at Row on 5 in London for the dinner party of dreams
Row on 5, located on the storied Savile Row, emerges as a perfectly tailored fit for fans of fine dining
By Ben McCormack Published
-
How a bijou jewellery salon in Monaco set the jewellery trends for 2025
Inside the inaugural edition of Joya, where jewellery is celebrated as miniature works of art
By Jean Grogan Published
-
How 2024 brought beauty and fashion closer than ever before
2024 was a year when beauty and fashion got closer than ever before, with runway moments, collaborations and key launches setting the scene for 2025 and beyond
By Mahoro Seward Published
-
Watch: Angelina Jolie pays ‘cinematic homage to feminine beauty and power’ in a campaign film for Tom Ford
Angelina Jolie takes a cinematic turn in Tom Ford Beauty’s new ‘Runway Lip Colour’ campaign film, directed by Mert + Marcus
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
Haider Ackermann is the new creative director of Tom Ford
French-Colombian designer Haider Ackermann will make his debut at Tom Ford for A/W 2025, replacing Peter Hawkings, who left the brand earlier this year
By Jack Moss Published
-
The best waterproof make-up for hot weather, as recommended by the Wallpaper* Beauty Editor
Waterproof make-up products from an immovable Chanel eyeliner to a smear-safe Dior lipstick, recommended by Wallpaper’s Beauty Editor Hannah Tindle
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
A/W 2024 beauty moments from the runways, as selected by Wallpaper*
We recap stand-out A/W 2024 beauty moments from the runways, including JW Anderson, Chanel, Hermès, and more
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
Year in review: top 10 beauty and grooming features of 2023, selected by Wallpaper’s Hannah Tindle
Our top 10 beauty and grooming features of 2023 span from Prada’s make-up debut to Japanese hair styling and the secrets of Björk’s nail artist
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
Glitter: five sophisticated ways to wear the make-up texture on your face, hair and body
These glitter make-up products exude an aura of sophistication, including Guido Palau’s Zara Beauty collection, Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle lotion, and Giorgio Armani’s eye tint
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
How Tom Ford changed the beauty industry
As Tom Ford steps down from his eponymous beauty brand, we pay tribute to his contribution to the industry
By Mary Cleary Published