Designer debuts, city swaps, runway returns – this September, women’s fashion month is back in what’s already primed to be a standout season of shows. As ever, from New York to Paris, expect an eclectic mix of the world’s best-known houses and a rising creative vanguard, together defining the S/S 2023 season ahead. Here, in an ongoing report, discover everything Wallpaper* knows about the womenswear schedule so far.
Women’s fashion week S/S 2023: all you need to know
New York Fashion Week 9 – 14 September 2022
While recent seasons have seen New York Fashion Week run with a largely depleted schedule, this September sees something of a revival for fashion month’s American stopover – halting any talk of its demise. Notably, the week has attracted two blockbuster international guests, Francesco Risso’s Marni – showing in the city as part of a ‘world tour’ for the Italian label – and Fendi, who will hold a celebration of its seminal ‘Baguette’ handbag (the house, currently helmed by womenswear creative director Kim Jones, will also continue to show its S/S 2023 collection in Milan). Elsewhere, a new vanguard of home-grown American talent brings fresh creative energy to the city, among them Peter Do (nominated for both the Woolmark and ANDAM Prize this year), Area, Puppets & Puppets, Judy Turner and Luar, while New York City stalwarts Tom Ford, Michael Kors, Coach, Gabriela Hearst, Tory Burch and Proenza Schouler will all make their return to the runway, the latter opening the week on the first Friday.
London Fashion Week 16 – 20 September 2022
London Fashion Week also looks set to return with new energy; in a surprise announcement last week, it was revealed that Belgian designer Raf Simons will bring his eponymous label to the city to present his S/S 2023 collection on Friday 16 September. ‘It’s been a dream for a while to show in London – a city where fashion and creativity are omnipresent on the streets... I’m very happy to welcome the amazing people and faces that make up the London scene to my show. Can’t wait to see you and dance the night away,’ he said in a statement. Simons will be joined by Riccardo Tisci and Jonathan Anderson who both make their return to the London Fashion Week schedule with Burberry and JW Anderson respectively, while the busy five days will also amalgamate both mens- and womenswear designers, from established London names (Simone Rocha, Molly Goddard, Erdem) to a rising generation (Nensi Dojaka, SS Daley, Knwls, Chopova Lowena, Stefan Cooke).
Raf Simons A/W 2022.
Milan Fashion Week 20 – 26 September 2022
The biggest news of Milan Fashion Week this season is the slew of designers making their runway debuts as creative directors: among them Filippo Grazioli for Missoni (following a low-key menswear presentation this past June), Rhuigi Villaseñor for Bally, and Marco de Vincenzo for Etro. Perhaps most anticipated, though, is the arrival of young British designer Maximilian Davis at Salvatore Ferragamo, who will show his debut collection for the Florentine house on the afternoon of Saturday 24 September. Elsewhere, look out for Matthieu Blazy’s sophomore outing at Bottega Veneta, an open-to-the-public show from Glenn Martens at Diesel, and the guest appearance of London-based Matty Bovan, who is showing at Milan Fashion Week courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana. The busy week is rounded out by the city’s blockbuster houses: Gucci, Giorgio Armani, Fendi, Prada, Max Mara, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace, which remain some of Milan Fashion Week’s biggest draws.
Paris Fashion Week 26 September – 4 October 2022
The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode has released its provisional schedule for Paris Fashion Week S/S 2023, which looks set to round out the month in high-wattage manner: expect the usual big-ticket shows from Louis Vuitton, Dior, Chanel, Saint Laurent, Loewe, Hermès, Valentino, Balenciaga, Givenchy and Miu Miu, among others. Alongside, new additions to the nine-day schedule include Victoria Beckham, in her Paris debut, while Ib Kamara – a longtime collaborator with Virgil Abloh – will reveal his vision as art and image director of Off-White on Thursday evening. Elsewhere, the contingent of Japanese designers who have shown for decades in the city – for the past two years unable to travel due to quarantine restrictions – will make their womenswear return, including Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe and Yohji Yamamato (Issey Miyake will also show its first collection since the eponymous founder’s death earlier this month). Rounding out the week are a new generation of energetic young designers from Paris and beyond: Ester Manas, Vaquera, and Weinsanto among them.
Stay tuned for more Wallpaper* coverage from women’s fashion week S/S 2023.
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