Style findings: 2016's dispatches from the Wallpaper* fashion team
House of fun
22 December
London based-fashion designer Matty Bovan has created a selection prismatic of Christmas wreaths for House of Voltaire. Created from marble foam, plaster and bedazzling jewels, the decorations are an acid-trip take on festivity.
Hybrid handbags
21 December
Renowned for creating clothes that defy classification, Sacai’s Chitose Abe has turned her hybrid aesthetic to handbag design. Collaborating with Katie Hillier on her debut bag collection, the six enigmatic styles, crafted in soft leather, crocodile skin and mink act as spliced versions of archetypal silhouettes.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Wool worth
20 December
This season sees the return of an exclusive C.P. Company fabric, which was developed by designers Paul Harvey and Alessandro Pungetti four years ago. Named Shetland SL, a heavy-duty lycra is formed by bonding light weight traditional yarn-dyed wool.
The team worked with a bouclé yarn for the first time, which was typically used for men’s outerwear in the 1950’s and 60’s. Combined with the Shetland SL technique, the fabric boosts the coat’s protective qualities whilst maintaining the natural elasticity of the wool fabric.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Feeling Plein
19 December
The latest addition to the New Bond Street fashion mile, Claudio Pironi & Partners, the architecture practice who designed Philipp Plein’s expansive Milanese showroom, has worked with the German fashion designer on his new London flagship. The majestic three-floor store boasts marble, gold and mirrored surfaces, bedecked with Plein’s idiosyncratic logoed and rhinestone finishes.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
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Seeing clearly
19 December
New Zealand-based sunglass maker Karen Walker has used industrial acetate and monel in her debut range of clear lenses. The vintage-like oversized frames are the ultimate eccentric optical update.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Mythic method
15 December
The casual aesthetic of German brand Closed and the delicate yet humorous embroideries of designer Jackie Villevoye are brought together in a three-piece line launching in spring next year. Villevoye, the founder of Jupe by Jackie, worked together with her team of master artisans in India, who hand-stitch the mythological creatures directly onto the garments.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
On the right track
14 December
Go-faster stripes race through Smythson’s new luggage offering for S/S17, with every piece from the Burlington Stripe collection boasting bold hand-printed navy and blue track lines. The pattern pays homage to the heritage brand’s signature jacquard, used in the lining of the Bond Street bag, which was the first ever produced by Frank Smythson in 1902.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Travel right
13 December
Robe de Voyage work with a collective of talented weavers in Bihar, East India, to craft its lightweight khadi cotton and silk travel robes. Scribble, the first print in the collection, which evokes rippled sunlight on water, was hand-painted by founder Jessica Linklater in her London studio, and then screen-printed in Delhi. Constructed in vibrant colourways, bright oranges, salty blues and rich reds were inspired by landscapes in Zanzibar, Kyoto and Malabar.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Stiff sophistication
12 December
Renowned for its attention to American craftsmanship, FRAME has collaborated with Cone, the oldest fabric mill in the US on its debut range of rigid denim. Reimagining 11 archive styles, including denim jackets and its signature cropped bootcut silhouette, the faded and frayed finishes are inspired by vintage denim fabrics.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Into the wild
9 December
Inspired by his childhood spent overseas, men’s artistic director Kim Jones has brought a piece of Africa with him to the Louis Vuitton menswear pop-up shop in Selfridges. Teaming up with regular collaborators the Chapman brothers, Jake and Dinos have added wild flair to the pop-up with African animal illustrations. Customers can also enjoy exclusive products from the pre-spring/summer 2017 and S/S 2017 shows and shop at the brand’s denim bar.
Writer: Aylin Bayhan
Have you met Suzy?
8 December
Bally has a new addition to its ever expanding accessories family, and the Suzy bag is its disco-centric little sister. Showing off the same B Turn lock, its smaller shape and gold chain shoulder strap is both youthful and rebellious. Stepping out in studded, block and tri-colour versions of suede, python and calfskin, it makes for most B-loved dance floor date.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Prada’s plush interiors update
7 December
Constantly revitalising the interior design of its store spaces, Prada has added velvet accents, geometric carpeting and exquisite glass and marble furniture to its Harrods concession in London. Exclusive Osvaldo Borsani chairs in plush strawberry pink complement the colourful furs on display, while the marble, steel and glass finishes of tables and counters reflect the embellishments of bags and costume jewellery. These luxurious updates are also featured at Prada’s Monte-Carlo outpost.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
California dreaming
6 December
Personalised gift curation service Assembly of Objects has looked to the creative flair of California for its new collection of bespoke gift boxes. In limited edition runs of 100, founder Zoë Black has curated gift sets for him, her and new mother and baby, exquisitely packaged in screen-printed wooden boxes. Covetable gifts found inside include artisanal linen-bound notebooks, copper coffee measuring scoops and hand-dyed shibori silk scarves.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Glow with the flow
5 December
In 1996, Calvin Klein commissioned the artist Dan Flavin to create Untitled, a configuration of red and white tube lights, which opened on Madison Avenue a month after his death. Lighting large storefront windows and doorways, Flavin’s installations are on view once more at the NYC flagship, acting as a minimalist antidote to overblown festive decoration.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Raw materials
2 December
G-Star Raw has experimented once more with Italian selvedge denim for the launch of its first RAW Research capsule collection. Launching tomorrow at Dover Street Market in London, Tokyo and NYC, the 20-piece collection features G-Star Raw's new Rackam 3D denim jeans in bleached-white, and a bomber jacket that can be strapped to and carried on the shoulders, in untreated raw indigo.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Perfectly measured
1 December
Neapolitan tailor Kiton has added a bespoke floor to its newly expanded and refurbished Munich boutique. The floor is devoted entirely to a bespoke tailoring service offering German customers an opportunity to experience the artisanal approach that exemplifies the brand. The store will also stock an exclusive selection of Kiton fabrics selected from the personal archives of brand founder Ciro Paone.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Woolly two-shoes
30 November
Awarded the New Zealand design award for best product recently, Allbirds is making a name for itself in an oversaturated trainers market where logos are ubiquitous. For Allbirds founders Tim Brown and Joey Zwillinger comfort comes first. In New Zealand, they source sustainble merino wool – never used in footwear before – which has incredible airing and isolating qualities; the footwear is then produced by Italian mills. Expect flocks of fans.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Magic circles
29 November
Black, deconstructed and minimalistic, Yohji Yamamoto’s sunglasses collection for spring/summer 2017 casts a spell on us. With curves in all the right places, the styles feature rounded glasses in an array of metal frames.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Wool power
28 November
There’s more than meets the eye with Danish brand Carcel. The brainchild of social entrepreneur Veronica D'Souza, Carcel works together with inmates in a women’s prison in Cusco, Peru to produce knitwear made of 100 per cent fine alpaca wool. Designed by Louise van Hauen, the minimal shapes come in many colours, combining comfort with Scandinavian cool. Via Carcel, the women have a market to sell their products. ‘We pay them $15 for one sweater', Souza explains. 'This adds up to more than three times the minimum wage in Peru.' Carcel’s next collection – made entirely made out of organic silk – is to be manufactured by women in India. Stay tuned.
Writer: Vas Panagiotopoulos
Golden eye
25 November
In the Noughties, Citizens of Humanity was synonymous with fitted and flared styles of denim that elevated jeans into the designer realm. Today, the brand has grown bigger than that, boasting four sub-labels. One of these is Goldsign, a denim brand that designer Karen Phelps was tasked with reviving. Phelps created a modern aesthetic that’s nonetheless soft around the edges. By laundering the fabrics before sewing them, she reverses the usual denim manufacturing process. The result: relaxed, super soft separates that cut a slightly 1970s silhouette.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Into the fray
24 November
Italy-based brand Alanui brings ethnic flair to your modern day look. Founder Nicolo Oddi’s unisex Navaro jacquard cashmere cardigans offer a vibrant tone of Indian American patterns, framed by fringed-edges that feel decidedly relaxed. Eleven hours of knitting and assembling goes into creating each cashmere piece. Worth a trip to Selfridges in London, Tsum in Moscow and Beymen in Istanbul.
Writer: Aylin Bayhan
Bags of attitude
23 November
Each season Kris Van Assche revisits Dior’s iconic house monogram in a capsule accessories collection for Dior Homme. For A/W 2016, the designer taps his rebellious streak with overprinted checks, embroidered streaks and paint splashes running riot on coated canvas backpacks and travel bags. A series of works by Japanese artist Toru Kamei completes the collection.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Danish debut
22 November
Danish designer Martine Jarlgaard, who previously worked as head of Diesel’s female apparel, has launched her eponymous line. Jarlgaard’s debut during London Fashion Week showed sculptural silhouettes in minimalist tones which were made of organic and recycled fabrics.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Roll up, roll up
18 November
In Fellini’s fantasy world, the circus was a major fascination figuring in the legendary director's films, from La Strada to I Clowns. On the occasion of its new Double T Circus bag, Italian leather goods brand Tod’s revisits this festive theme in the holiday windows of its Madison Avenue boutique. Decorated with a red-and-white striped circus tent dotted with acrobats, the scenes were devised by none other than the Academy Award-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. With these three Italian favourites lined-up, the circus comes full circle.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Knitted and booted
17 November
Camper has widened its young talent collaborations with designer duo Eckhaus Latta, New York Fashion Week’s underground stars. Reworking the block-heeled boot to meet the athletic sock, the result is a knitted shoe that comes in off-white, grey and mustard. The shoe’s offbeat aesthetic was captured in motion, as actress/model Hari Nef’s stormed through the torrid plains of Mallorca.
Writer: Aylin Bayhan
Vibrant vision
16 November
The bold and the beautiful come together in Roksanda Ilincic’s debut sunglasses collection, made in collaboration with luxury eyewear brand Cutler and Gross. Vivid, contrasting colours clash with geometric lines in handmade frames of the highest quality Italian acetate. The sunglasses are the latest addition to Roksanda’s growing accessories range.
Writer: Jason Hughes
The rainmakers
15 November
As designers make increasingly clever use of 3D printing, Alexander McQueen is the latest to foray into digital fabrication with its new 'Black Skull' umbrella. McQueen enlisted a helping hand in the form of Berlin-based company VOJD Studios, which specialises in luxury 3D printed goods. Created from a cast of a handprint, the ergonomic handle was scanned in 3D and then printed, so as to fit organically and comfortably in any grasp. The asymmetric handle has been galvanised to achieve the resulting high-shine, mirror finish, and a slim brass stem leads up to a wide, canopy, embroidered with the classic McQueen skull emblem.
Photography: courtesy of Ssense
Writer: Elly Parsons
Give and take
14 November
Free shopping may seem like an oxymoron, but Lablaco Give, a new social app that focuses on fashion, promises a proxy to it. The brainchild of Lorenzo Albrighi, Lablaco Give offers a solution for fashion’s waste problem by creating a framework within which surplus clothing can be given away.
Conceived as a ‘free vintage store’, givers and followers can find each other locally and share clothing by picking the garment up in person or by using DHL, a world-wide Lablaco partner, for delivery. The cost can then be split or taken on by a chosen party. Albrighi sees the potential of the app to develop into a hub for philanthropy as well, explaining, ‘There’s an option named Crowd Giving, for areas which may be affected by natural calamities such as earthquakes.’
Writer: Siska Lyssens
High spirits
11 November
Two German tastemakers are set to combine tomorrow in Berlin. Discerning boutique Andreas Murkudis – where clothing is just one aspect of the beautiful objects displayed – will open its doors to host the tenth anniversary celebration of Stählemühle, a fine brandy distillery. Three of the company’s best vintage flavours - Constantinople apple quince, Sicilian blood orange and Nymphenburg cornelian cherry – are bottled for the occasion in the finest Nymphenburg porcelain, an artisan product with a history going back more than 266 years. Actually, make that two German tastemakers – and one historical authority on craftsmanship.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Art and soul
10 November
Having recently joined Mount Street’s distinguished retail arena, J&M Davidson brushes up its art credentials, launching a new collaboration with fashion illustrator Tanya Ling. With every purchase from the A/W 2016 handbag collection, the brand will offer a personal customisation option. The 'Belle', 'Olivia' (pictured) and 'Oona' bags become canvases for Ling’s artistic endeavours, transforming them into abstract, sculptural works. Customers will be able to purchase any bag from the Mayfair boutique and order the unique commission to be painted on them until 31 January.
Writer: Aylin Bayhan
Slope star
9 November
Neil Barrett takes to the slopes for A/W 2016, with the release of his first skiwear collection. Hooded anoraks and quilted jackets come emblazoned with modernist graphic motifs and the brands' emblematic thunderbolt, while ski-pants come with tailored front pleats or a tuxedo-inspired stripe running down the leg. Informed by Barrett’s distinctive menswear vision, the skiwear collection combines modern luxury with performance materials.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Jean genie
8 November
From patches to tassels and your initials – or even Wallpaper’s asterisk, if so inclined – the new M.i.h online customisation service makes personalised denim possible. It’s not just the brand’s jeans that are cut out for it; even non-M.i.h denim can be sent in for upcycling. Besides the different personalisations (think custom cuts and patch packs) there is also the option to craft a one-off look, completely tailored to anything you can dream up. The project is an on-going service with new components added to the service each season.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Reformation station
7 November
Reformation has built a reputation for affordable, original and feminine clothing that’s on the right side of dressy, with the added benefit of sustainable awareness. They’re opening up a temporary shop on London’s Monmouth Street today, with an interesting retail concept that allows customers to shop from touch screens while also trying on the clothes, and then have the purchases shipped home for free. The pared-down space is airy, with white walls and parquet floors. Dressing rooms and a seating corner are furnished in muted cream, pink carpets and leafy shrubs – an LA code of cool.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
If the shoe fits
4 November
For Salvatore Ferragamo, one’s personal tastes are equally important to quality and craftsmanship when deciding which shoes to wear. A made-to-order option was therefore not far on the horizon for the Italian footwear brand, and they’ve taken their iconic Giglio men’s line as the foundation of that personalized program. The Oxford, The Monkstrap and the Monkstrap boot will be open to bespoke input on material, colour and buckle finish, along with personalized lettering on the sole. Named Tramezza, the service is available in stores and online.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Patchwork players
3 November
If you ever dreamed of wearing a crying moon on your sweater, or fantastical flora and fauna patches all over your jeans, now’s your chance. Visual artist Frances Upritchard has left her mark on a capsule collection with fashion designers – and longtime friends and collaborators – Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos. Everyday separates like tops, sweaters and stonewashed denim are transformed under Upritchard’s artful watch, with ancient Peruvian embroidery, colourful fraying and more. Created in exclusive collaboration with matchesfashion.com under Amex's partnership umbrella, it’s a perfectly tuned coupling that sees cultures collide.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Colour blocking
2 November
British design icons Paul Smith and Anglepoise have joined forces to create a new version of the latter's classic Type 75 Desk Lamp. Taking inspiration from artists Piet Mondrian and Theo van Doesburg’s De Stijl movement, primary colours come out to play in the lamp's graphic palette of white, red, yellow and blue.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Arm candy
1 November
Strap on, pouch off - the Transformer bag (pictured right) by Theory is the brand’s first customisable cross-body bag. It is part of Theory’s inaugural accessories collection, designed by newly minted creative director Rory O’Hanlon. The Transformer allows you to build your own bag by selecting from a range of straps and up to three pouches. From calf hair and suede, to shearling and patchwork fur, each pouch can easily be removed or adapted for a different look. Also new to the Theory family is the Whitney (left), a clever piece in which jewellery and handbag design come together.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Westwood on Westwood
31 October
Get A Life, Vivienne Westwood urges us in characteristic irreverent fashion, with a collection of diary entries meant to spur the reader into activism. Taking us along on her trips to, among others, the Amazon rainforest and to David Cameron’s Cotswolds home – as well as opening up about her daily fashion responsibilities – Westwood shows us the inside of her mind and the back of her tongue in these compelling and detailed diaries. On these pages, she admits: ‘I don’t like sounding bossy even though I’ve got strong opinions.’
Get A Life, by Vivienne Westwood, £16.99, published by Serpent's Tail.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Accessories with Mr A
27 October
A collaboration based on a good story is one that has legs – literally in the case of André Saraiva, the Paris-based artist who stumbled upon a pair of vintage Bally boots from 1973 while packing for a trip. He still liked the boots so much that he wanted his girlfriend to have a pair too. So Saraiva and Pablo Coppola, design director at Bally, got down to work on redesigning the boots and creating, in the process, a small leather goods capsule collection that’s embossed by Saraiva’s graffiti-artist alter ego, Mr A – a cheery, top-hatted, leggy stick figure.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Álvaro González’s boot debut
26 October
This season, sandal specialist Álvaro González takes his first steps into the world of women’s boots. Featuring an almond toe and a straight leg, the unfussy design comes both in a knee-high and ankle version – both with a chunky wooden heel. The boots are fully lined in shearling and crafted from a single piece of calf leather by artisans in workshops around Florence. Available exclusively on matchesfashion.com.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Signature simplicity
25 October
Azzedine Alaïa, as usual, presented his S/S 2017 collection only once it felt right. The latest line-up was rich with graphic detail and desirable, beautifully developed silhouettes – all while furthering the designer’s reliable repertoire of sculpted leather, athletic knit dresses and flawless tailoring. You need only consider the opening look, a peasant dress in the supplest leather marked with a single saw-toothed band of red and cinched with moulded belt, to realize how his simplest statements are wondrously deceiving. Swishing dotted fringes and arrangements of studs – an Alaïa signature – transitioned from grid-like formation to curving, swooping lines down and around the length of his dresses. When one of the optical illusion motifs played out as a jacket and maxi handkerchief skirt total look, the result was movement within movement.
Writer: Amy Verner
The beautiful game
24 October
Football in China is enjoying a groundbreaking sartorial boost, with the national team stepping out in a crisp new capsule wardrobe of off-field formal and leisurewear, designed and made by Italian menswear brand Ermenegildo Zegna.
Zegna’s newly-appointed artistic director Alessandro Sartori was responsible for the bespoke new look, that comprises a navy blue, single-breasted Trofeo fabric suit with a scarlet lining (a nod to the official Chinese colour), paired with a soft white shirt, a pocket square and black Derby shoes. A contemporary take on the classic raincoat completes the ensemble.
The leisure side of the collection sees slim-cut denim jeans, a full zip sweatshirt, a navy blue backpack and the highlight – a triple-stitch trainer in a fire-red grained calf leather.
‘Over the past 100 plus years, Zegna has been dedicated to creating a contemporary look for men of all ages and from all walks of life, among them artists, successful businessmen and athletes,’ CEO Gildo Zegna says. ‘The way we look at it, art, sports and fashion are interlinked on many levels.’ We agree that it’s a perfect fit.
The triple stitch sneakers are available in stores in other colour variations; a red version may become available to the public in the future.
Writer: Catherine Shaw
Private rooms
21 October
There are still four months left to discover ‘Rik Wouters & the Private Utopia’, a thematic exhibition at Antwerp’s ModeMuseum (MoMu), which zooms in on the Post-Impressionist painter and his intimate domestic scenes. Wouters’ expressive style hasn’t lost its dynamism, and is translated in works by a number of contemporary artists and designers included in the exhibition.
One of these is fashion designer Dirk Van Saene, who, together with The Woolmark Company, has created a picturesque rug as lively as Wouters’ brushstrokes, and which was hand-tufted by a family-owned firm in the western Belgian city of Moeskroen.
A rug based on Van Saene's one will be on display at Biennale Interieur in Kortrijk until 23 October, at the 'Limited Edition' booth.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
‘Iconic Classics’
20 October
Bentley’s ‘Iconic Classics’ capsule collection is intended to ‘complement the lifestyle of our customers’, as Karin Schilcher, director of licensing and branding, disclosed to Wallpaper* earlier this month.
Inspired by the Continental GT, the brand transcends the automotive world and brings iconic detailing to an apparel and accessories collection for both men and women.
The collection features go-to, versatile pieces such as a knitted polo shirt, a wool poncho, Mongolian cashmere and Italian-made silk scarves in a palette of black and white, graphite, delicate neutrals and deep purples.
Cross-stitching techniques or matrix grille lining cuts reflect the shape of a Bentley dashboard, injecting the signature craftsmanship of the Cheshire-based brand into every piece.
The collection is available at authorised Bentley retailers and online.
Writer: Aylin Bayhan
Maiyet's meticulous concept
19 October
Co-founder and CEO Paul van Zyl was beaming at the opening of the Maiyet Concept Store on Conduit Street. No wonder, as his team and their talented partners – Tom Dixon, Phaidon and Tata Harper among them – succeeded in getting the Mayfair space in perfect condition in about 12 weeks, from conception to execution, for a pop-up that will last three months.
Jasmine Hemsley debuts her Ayurvedic café East by West here too – a good reason to take the slow approach to visiting the sustainable luxury fashion brand’s London outpost.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
East meets West
18 October
Western historic outerwear meets East Asian-manufacturing tradition in a collaboration between Woolrich and Japanese fashion designer Shinsuke Kojima, a designer whose personal work has been influenced by vintage American military and work wear.
For the capsule collection, Kojima drew inspiration from the Woolrich archives. Several classic styles such as the Jungle Jacket and the Mountain Parka were modernised for contemporary use. Manufactured in Japan, the products are made of the latest regional fabric techniques and come in a classic colour palette of blue, grey, sand and green.
The collection will be available in Japan and outside Japan exclusively at Woolrich stores.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Moynat tangoes with Mambo
17 October
French heritage leather goods brand Moynat and French-Hungarian street artist Mambo join forces for an unusual merging of tradition and modernity, creating a collection of totes, pouches, passport holders and scarves.
Using Moynat’s signature marquetry technique, Mambo applied his iconic 1960s-style portraits of Claudia, Brigitte and Michel to the colourful accessories.
Available at all Moynat boutiques from mid-October.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Porth authority
14 October
Bespoke London boot maker John Lobb, under the creative direction of Paula Gerbase, continues to widen the options for men who are looking for a shoe that can handle a physical journey as well as offer lightweight style.
Lobb’s newest trainer, the Porth, offers that kind of quality thanks to a full lining in natural leather and perforations at its tip that allow the shoe to breathe. Its seven eyelets and ‘sacchetto’ construction turn this sneaker – available in five different colours, in both suede and leather – into a super flexible form that adapts to the movement of the foot.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Cross-cultural exchange
13 October
On the Friday evening of London’s Frieze Art Fair, recent Central Saint Martins graduate John Alexander Skelton presented his second collection at Hostem Spring Store.
In an intimate setting, the designer revealed a collection inspired by Britain’s fractious relationship with India, from Gandhi’s Swadeshi movement to the political leader’s visits to Lancashire.
The use of repurposed cloth, British wools and naturally dyed materials gave his collection a traditional and sustainable feel.
Skelton’s collection is now on display at Hostem, in Shoreditch.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Sock it to ‘em
12 October
‘Falke for Liberty’ sees a partnership between two renowned heritage brands through the creation of a unique capsule collection of luxury socks for A/W 2016.
The limited-edition collection comprises seven styles, each covered with a signature print from the Liberty archive. Heritage patterns such as ‘Strawberry Thief’ and ‘Felix & Isabelle’ are mixed with selection of contemporary designs from recent seasons, including the Oriental inflections of S/S 2016’s ‘Paisley Tears’ and the pomegranate motif of A/W 2015's ‘Gambier’.
The collection is available to purchase from Liberty and Falke.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Hindmarch's personal touch
11 October
Nothing shows your individuality like something made bespoke. Anya Hindmarch will be launching a personalised strap service to go along with its latest A/W 2016 bags, where customers can choose crystal initials and symbols to adorn their embellished strap.
Each personalised strap comes in an array of colours with space for up to six symbols, ranging from hearts and eyes to the entire alphabet, all to create something unique.
The service will be launched in selected stores from today.
Writer: Ievan Darwin
Social sisterhood
10 October
With the S/S 2017 fashion weeks over and done with, Dior offers clients and admirers alike a rare peek behind the atelier's curtains.
Zooming in on the women who worked in tandem with the first female creative director of the French house, Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Instagram series – found via #thewomenbehindmydress – follows Lili, the calligrapher, Aida Neddaf, the première d’atelier and the petite mains who work on the garments, to the models who wear them.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Peter Saville x Paco Rabanne
7 October
The UK’s most famous graphic designer, Peter Saville, has revealed a new fashion collaboration – this time, Paco Rabanne, under the creative direction of Julien Dossena for the past three years, gets the Saville treatment.
Saville has designed a limited collection of t-shirts with topical phrases that are surprisingly mild: 'futuresex', 'canned candies', and the more cryptic 'akt in ketten'. Inspired by the 1969 book of Jean Clemmer photographs Nues, and its various translated titles, this collaboration is inspired by typography and national identities.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Gavin Turk's 'London Brick'
6 October
Jewellery design-duo Emily Bradbury and Dawn Hindle of True Rocks have collaborated with artist Gavin Turk on a special limited-edition charm necklace entitled ‘The London Brick’. The handcrafted charm playfully elevates the humble block into an artworld status symbol.
Launching at Frieze London, the charm comes cast in solid silver and plated with 18ct rose or yellow gold. An 18ct solid gold version will also be available exclusively at Damien Hirst’s gallery OtherCriteria.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Team spirit
5 October
Iffley Road is a premium running wear brand created by husband and wife team Bill Byrne and Claire Kent. Born out of the couple’s love for the sport and frustration with the gaudy and ill-fitting kit ruling the market, Iffley Road offers a range that delivers on performance and style in equal measure.
Working with high-quality textiles that give long-lasting technical performance and comfort, kit essentials include sleek short-sleeve tops made from a bespoke micro-blend piqué, running shorts manufactured in a leading Italian mill with a long tradition of technical innovation, and beanies made from 100 per cent merino that are completely itch-free and ideal for cooler months.
For autumn, the duo have commissioned artist Fergus McHugh to add a contour design to their Thorpe merino tops and Thompson shorts.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Prada’s presents Borsani editions
4 October
In the womenswear departments of selected Prada stores, worldwide customers will now find a selection of reproduced iconic chairs by 20th-century Italian designer Osvaldo Borsani.
Highlighting a passion for craftsmanship, technology and innovation, the chairs – which were no longer in production – have been brought back exclusively for the brand.
The designs, including the classic ‘D32 Atelier’ sofa from the 1950s, retain their original shape and material but have been given a new finish and color scheme.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Pure document
3 October
Japanese photographer Fumi Nagasaka is known for her grainy documentary style. Ever searching for the human side of her subjects, Nagasaka’s most recent personal project portrays youth – kids she encounters in everyday life – as an honest and pure keepsake. Her first book, Untitled Youth, captures just that: New York, Berlin, England and Stockholm youngsters in their street subculture habitat, balancing the artifice of fashion and identity.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Needle work
30 September
Even with haute couture collections, Karl Lagerfeld never shies away from sketching over 60 silhouettes. Some of these were tacked to a wall in Chanel’s New Bond Street boutique, where the S/S 2017 presentation for couture clients and press was held.
Tweed jackets received an update with square shoulders and angular topstitched crested seams and trims that modernised the material. The eveningwear as usual exhibited the incredible skill of Chanel’s trusted partner ateliers. A gown with crystal and rhinestone embroidery by Lesage and another silhouette with Fortuny pleating and a jewel-embroidered Camellia realised by Atelier Flou showed the handmade quality that keeps the Chanel clientele coming back for more.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Ice Ice Baby
29 September
A/W 2016 sees the return of Stone Island’s iconic ‘Ice Jacket’. Known for its innovative approach to design through garment construction and fabric development, the jacket is one of the brands most technological pieces.
This time round sees the jacket made of Resin-T fabric – a translucent nylon that changes colour according to temperature thanks to a thermo-chromatic coating. The thermo-sensitive shell comes with a removable inner down jacket in fluro-coloured nylon that creates an extra layer and colour play.
Writer: Jason Hughes
McQueen's military kicks
28 September
This season, Alexander McQueen has introduced a new luxury sneaker made of smooth black and ivory suede. Inspired by the military and ceremonial references of the A/W 2016 collection, the sneaker comes as a high top with round toecap and rubber sole. Military ribbon binding conceals the laces underneath while a silver metal spine adorns the back heel. The sneakers will be available from Alexander McQueen stores worldwide and online.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Goose goes online
27 September
This week marks the launch of arctic outerwear brand Canada Goose’s online store. Customers will be able to browse through exclusive styles and limited-edition collaborations as well as the A/W 2016 collection, which includes the re-design of the brand’s classic Hybridge 2.0 jacket. Besides the online retail destination, Canada Goose will open two standalone flagship stores in Toronto and New York later this year.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Paola Navone’s everyday interiors
26 September
Over the course of two years, Paola Navone and Spencer Bailey collaborated on Tham ma da: The adventurous interiors of Paola Navone, a coffee-table book published by Pointed Leaf Press that looks back on the Italian architect, interior designer, product designer and art director’s considerable career.
With insightful essays by Bailey, a design writer and editor, the tome gathers both residential and commercial projects Navone has worked on, that reflect her philosophy of adopting elements of the ordinary in her designs. Hence the tome’s title, which means ‘everyday’ in Thai.
Navone feels very close to Asia, where she’s been working, travelling and living for large periods of time. The book illustrates how the region’s flavours and colours have informed her eclectic work, that ranges from bold retail spaces in Japan to rustic Mediterranean homes.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Custom central
23 September
As a quintessential lifestyle brand, Polo Ralph Lauren could not have done a more thorough job with their newest London store. Housed in a grand Regent Street corner building and comprising three floors, it offers every aspect of the brand’s extensive range.
Menswear takes up the ground and lower ground floors, in a low-lit wooden space filled with leather couches and antique carpets. The smart casual, sportswear and formal suiting collections – as well as eyewear and fragrances – can be found here. Tailors on site are at the ready for fitting requests; and the very first of Polo Ralph Lauren’s global launches of the Polo Custom Shop, a digital service that allows personalisation of some of the brand’s iconic pieces, is exclusively being rolled out.
On the first floor, women’s wear and children’s occupy two separate, light-filled spaces. Another exclusive takes pride of place here: the ‘Sullivan’ saddle bag, the hand-beaded straps of which can only be personalised in-store.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
CP Company's future fabric
22 September
CP Company has never been afraid to experiment when it comes to new manufacturing techniques and materials. For A/W 2016 the brand has introduced a new innovative sweatshirt fabric in the form of Felpa Doppia.
Felpa Doppia takes the spacer fabric concept normally used in automotive thermal insulation and applies it to sweatshirt construction. Two superfine cotton jerseys are held apart by a single nylon mesh to produce additional thermal insulation with minimal increase in weight.
Sweatshirts and hoodies from the range are available in store and online.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Nike's Milanese design lab
21 September
This week, Nike opens a new store in the heart of Milan’s historical Brera district. NikeLab ST18 will stock a curated collection of the brand's pinnacle products, as well as exhibiting work from Milanese design talents.
First up is Martino Gamper, who has created 12 chairs, eight stools and a central totem structure within the store. Each of the pieces convey Gamper’s unique style through the choice of bold colours and distinct mix of materials.
NikeLab’s latest collaboration with Italian sportswear brand Stone Island will debut at the store. The ‘Windrunner’ blends Nike’s iconic design with Stone Island’s innovative fabrics, garment dyeing techniques and construction.
Writer: Jason Hughes
JW Anderson enters the world of M/M
20 September
After several successful collaborations, JW Anderson Workshops is hosting a presentation of exclusive products designed by creative agency M/M (Paris). For ‘World of M/M’, founders Mathias Augustyniak and Michael Amzalag collaborated with the Tokyo-based travel goods brand Toshiki. The result? A collection of colourful tote bags and duffle backpacks decorated with embroidered patches.
In addition, JW Anderson teamed up with the creative duo to create two unisex sweatshirts, dubbed ‘Eyes’ and ‘Twins’.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Let’s dance
19 September
Brothers Lucas and Josua Hoffalt are one of a kind: their passion for dance and design has brought them to create Hoffalt, a unique ‘dancewear’ collection for both men and women. A principal dancer with the ballet company of the Paris National Opera, Josua knows how to free the body’s movement from clothing. Paris-based designer Lucas, on the other hand, was keen to reconcile elegant lines with the technical expertise required by professional dancers.
Carefully chosen, the colours and fabrics – think cream neoprene combi-short, elegant turtleneck leotards, graphic leg warmers or charcoal combed-cotton high-collar polo short – compose a smart, casual line that can be worn outside the dance studio.
The Hoffalt collection is exclusively sold at the Galerie de l'Opéra de Paris and online
Writer: Clara Le Fort
Eye spy
16 September
This week Californian sunglass brand Oliver Peoples opened its first European store on London's Sloane Street. Working with Los Angeles-based architects Marmol Radziner, the amber-hued space is a modern riff on the Britan's old world clubs achieved through a mix of luxurious materials including graphite suede walls and textured oak floors. Black and white leather shelving and cabinet tops have been teamed with rich rosewood marquetry, while authentic optometry stools step up the space's seating stature.
In addition to the brand's seasonal offering the Sloane Square store also features collaborations with The Row and Byredo.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Troubadour get tanned
15 September
For A/W 2016, London-based accessory designer Troubadour has expanded its range of handcrafted bags to include a collection of belts and small leather goods. Wallets are cleverly constructed through ingenious folding to ensure a slim yet capacious silhouette, while belts come streamlined with minimal details. The collection is made from all-natural vegetable-tanned Italian leather so that every piece looks better with age.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Wax London
14 September
Newly-launched contemporary menswear label Wax London create considered and functional clothing using modern finishes and technical fabrics. Influenced by the founders' backgrounds, their A/W 2016 collection takes inspiration from classic British outerwear paired with the aesthetic ease and functionality of Scandinavian design.
Casual tailoring, durable outerwear and lightweight jersey pieces all pay tribute to classic workwear staples in a collection that is underpinned by the brand's ethos of quality and wearability.
Wax London’s A/W 2016 collection is available online now
Writer: Jason Hughes
Jac + Jack + Japan
13 September
As part of London Design Festival, luxury brand Jac + Jack will showcase an installation created by design team Soft Baroque at its Soho store.
The Japanese art of ‘suiseki’, which is the appreciation for small, naturally-shaped rocks, inspired the London-based duo for their ‘Daiza Daze’ installation. Just like the stones used in suiseki, Jac + Jack garments are presented on wooden bases, known as a ‘daiza’, to create objects of meditation.
The installation will be on display from Friday 16 September to Sunday 25 September at 33 Great Windmill Street, London, W1D 7LR.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Making patterns
12 September
There are plenty of enviable archives in the world, but here's one that had escaped our gaze until the launch of Peter Koepke's new Phaidon tome Patterns: Inside the Design Library. It offers a behind-the-scenes peek into New York State's Design Library, the world’s largest archive of pattern and textiles with more than 1,200 different categories dating from the 1750s to the present day. The facility, located in a converted 1907-built mill, which now also includes a London showroom, was founded in 1972 by textile designer Susan Meller.
Featuring designs from visionaries including Bianchini-Férier, Raoul Dufy and Yves Cuvelier, it's no wonder that it's been regularly frequented by fashion names as broad as Alexander McQueen, Uniqlo and Calvin Klein over the years.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Dion Lee x Akin Creative
9 September
Fashion designer Dion Lee has opened a third store in his native Sydney. Known for his experimental craft, which embodies pioneering modern cuts, traditional techniques and voluminous fabrics, the newest iteration perfectly mirrors the architecturally interesting clothes he creates.
Interiors, realised by Kelvin Ho of Akin Creative, combine industrial and luxe elements, with pared-back chrome geometric beams fitted with strip lighting, exposed white brick and plywood in the main room, and blush pink carpets and walls in the changing rooms.
The new store can be found at 20 Glenmore Road, Paddington, Sydney.
Writer: Emilee Tombs
It takes two to tango
8 September
Cult New York label Sies Marjan has teamed up with interior marketplace 1stdibs on a curated space within London’s Selfridges for the presentation of its A/W 2016 collection. The pop-up is dotted with rare and desirable objects, including exquisite pieces by Talisman, which perfectly align with creative director Sander Lak’s effortlessly feminine designs.
The collaboration will be in store until 15 October.
Writer: Ievan Darwin
Stutterheim gets set for autumn
7 September
For A/W 2016, outerwear specialist Stutterheim has added a range of padded jacket liners to its collection. The liners can be worn separately or attached to the inside of the brand's classic jackets to add extra warmth and protection from the elements.
New jacket silhouettes and colourways in the brand's classic rubberised cotton material have also been added, along with a newly developed bonded cotton fabrication. All of the jackets are handmade using the finest craftsmanship and are characterised by simplicity, functionality and timeless design.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Van Note(n)book
6 September
Following the beautiful publication made to accompany Dries Van Noten’s 2014 exhibition at Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris, the designer has now created two limited-edition books to celebrate his collections for A/W 2017.
The book on the men’s collection focuses on the show itself, which was staged at Paris’ Palais Garnier for the first time. The reader will see the collection through the eyes of the guests, as imagery was shot by both established photographers and amateurs, the latter sourced via social media.
For the women’s book, British artist Bill Button illustrated a selection of silhouettes, details and fabrics from the collection. The artist had previously worked with Van Noten, having been asked to paint the invitations for the show.
The books are available at Dries Van Noten boutiques worldwide.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Cycle style
5 September
In addition to launching its great outdoors inspired S/S 2016 collection at Pitti Uomo, adventure specialists Woolrich also debuted a new collaboration with Australian bike brand Deus. The resulting e-bike, that’s entirely handmade in Italy by Deus Cycleworks, features ‘fat’ tires, which tackle country trails just as well as city cobblestones.
The Woolrich e-bike will be available from all Woolrich stores.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Claude Parent’s illustrious life
2 September
‘Claude Parent – Dessiner la mode’ is a new exhibition paying tribute to the late French architect, held by fashion designer Azzedine Alaïa and featuring a selection of Parent's fashion illustrations. The theoretician and practitioner of the ‘oblique function’ – who inspired many artists and architects – worked with his grandson Laszlo Parent on a series of fashion drawings in ink, inspired by Alaïa’s designs, until his death this past February.
Parent’s works see silver lines crossing items of clothing at angles. The exhibition will feature the original ink drawings, sketches on tracing paper and his very last unfinished pieces. A book published by Association Azzedine Alaïa and edited by Donatien Grau also accompanies the exhibition.
‘Claude Parent – Dessiner la mode’, will run at Galerie Azzedine Alaïa until 25 September.
Writer: Ievan Darwin
Building Block
1 September
The Los Angeles-based accessories label Building Block has slowly amassed a cult following since its inception in 2011. Created by sisters Nancy and Kimberly Wu, Building Block’s array of leather goods displays a stark sense of geometry, rendered in smooth, sleek leather with only the most sparing of details. The pair’s select use of oversized tassels, rounded acrylic handles and slender cord shoulder straps bestows their collection of bucket bags, flat totes and cylindrical duffels with just the point of difference that minimalists hold dear.
Hot on the heels of opening its first boutique in LA’s Chinatown last month, the sisters have collaborated with director Georgia Tribuiani on a film titled At Work, which casts Building Block’s wares in familiar office-centred work situations. Tongue-in-cheek and stylishly put together, it sums up just what Building Block is all about.
Writer: Pei-Ru Keh
Eytys scores an 'Ace'
31 August
Swedish unisex footwear brand Eytys has introduced a new slim silhouette sneaker for autumn. The ‘Ace’ references classic tennis shoes with its minimal leather last and crepe sole. The sneakers form part of a new deluxe line from the brand, manufactured in premium materials.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Tinct time
30 August
The British label Tinct, known for its vegetable-tanned leather accessories, is coming to London. The brand has chosen to open a pop-up shop in Chelsea as its first retail offering in the capital.
Besides a vast selection of leather bags and accessories there will be a selection of new designs available, including a made-to-order motorcycle helmet bag. In celebration of this, the design can be customised with a range of base colours and the application of a bespoke embossed design.
The Tinct pop-up shop will be open from 1-10 September at 121 Sydney Street, London, SW3 6NR.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
APC x Outdoor Voices
26 August
Jean Touitou's latest style mission is the beautification of the gymnasium, and as a result APC has teamed up with Outdoor Voices on a suitably sophisticated activewear collaboration. Rooted in functionality, the urban capsule draws upon the New York brand's fabrication expertise in the activewear realm, cue a super absorbent double-woven stretch crepe, and ranges from a hybrid legging/jogging pant for men to backless long-sleeve bodysuits for women. Not to forget leisure gear to wind down in: being APC there's of course plenty of grey marl jersey and a chic trench for when it's time to head back out onto the street.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Tricker's
25 August
British shoe brand Tricker’s release their very first seasonal collection for AW 2016 with the iconic ‘Stow’ boot being updated in six new colourways. For almost 200 years Tricker’s has been hand crafting shoes from its Northhampton factory. The ‘Stow’ boot was created by founder Joseph Tricker in 1840 and quickly became a brand signature style and has remained a key part of the collection ever since. The boot has been updated with a contrasting coloured sole, cotton stitching and classic ‘Tricker’s blue’ lining.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Raf Simons x Fred Perry
24 August
For his 14th collaboration with Fred Perry, Raf Simons brings his bold and graphic design approach to a series of iconic styles from the British brand.
Fred Perry’s iconic polo comes with colour-blocked sections, while a padded bomber jacket has a chunky woollen hem and smooth welt pockets to create a slimline silhouette. Knitwear plays a key role in the collection – a double-layer V-neck sweater gives the illusion of wearing two lightweight pieces together and the classic knitted sports shirt is restyled with a contrast-colour hem and collar.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Caravaggio’s coat
23 August
‘I have always wanted to commission a painting,’ says Matthew Miller. And so, for A/W 2016 he did just that. Two replica paintings of Caravaggio’s David and Goliath were commissioned and afterwards cut up. The frayed remnants were used to create two vests and coats, which were seen during Miller’s show at the beginning of this year.
To celebrate the launch of his A/W 2016 collection, the hand-painted coats will be available to buy on his website as bespoke made-to-order pieces from the beginning of September.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
A Melbourne man's world
22 August
The idea for Melbourne menswear brand Robinson Man was cooked up while its co-founders were living in Milan studying fashion design. The brand's design-focused spatial identity, on the other hand, came to the fore from perusing the city's Salone del Mobile fair. In 2014 they launched a menswear offering, focused on luxurious cashmere knits and tailoring; and working with the local firm Edwards Moore, they have now also realised their architectural dream.
The earthen store's interiors were inspired by desert landscapes and bold rock forms, and are grounded by a custom-made gold chrome display counter. Locally-sourced materials were incorporated wherever possible – from the blue stone occasional table source from Ballarat to spotted gum joinery – while the firm worked with Caroline Comino on the store's elegant object curation.
Writer: Katrina Israel
John Varvatos Oculus store
19 August
To celebrate the opening of its newest boutique in New York’s iconic World Trade Center Transportation Hub, John Varvatos has commissioned the artist/photographer Karsten Staiger to produce a series of photographs that pays homage to the city’s skyscraper heritage.
Working with Westfield World Trade Center, Staiger has captured daredevil views of the city from high above. The images are being digitally exhibited across the shopping center’s 19 large format screens, starting at the entrance of the Westfield entrance, continuing underneath 1 World Trade Center and culminating in the four-storey elevator screen located in Tower 4.
As one of the most identifiably New York designers, Varvatos says, ‘It has very special meaning to open in the new Santiago Calatrava-designed building at the site of the World Trade Center. To me, it is a statement of the strength of NYC and a message to everyone on not being intimidated by the evil minority in this crazy world. We celebrate our city with Karsten’s striking imagery.’
‘From New Heights’ is on view as of this week and continues until the end of September.
Writer: Pei-Ru Keh
Belstaff’s star appeal
18 August
Working alongside creative director Delphine Ninous, Belstaff brand ambassador and creative contributor Liv Tyler has taken inspiration from the British heritage label’s spirit and archives to create a special 13-piece collection.
Based on classic silhouettes with an emphasis on strong and modern femininity with a touch of masculinity, the collection is made up of predominantly outerwear with accessories and pussy bow blouses – set to fit seamlessly into any modern wardrobe.
The Liv Tyler X Belstaff capsule collection is now available in stores and online.
Writer: Ievan Darwin
'Hug' at Harrods
17 August
Agnona has teamed up with Giorgetti Design on the brand's first homeware space at Harrods. Taking centre stage is the ‘Hug’ armchair – a collaboration between the two brands. A beautifully handcrafted wooden frame design by Giorgetti curves around softly-shaped Agnona upholstery, creating a chair that is the perfect fusion of luxury and modernity.
The space also plays host to Agnona’s full A/W 2016 home collection. Blankets and pillows in soft plaids are made from the finest yarns, such as cashmere, alpaca and silk, their edges trimmed with napped leather and fur. A loungewear line of dressing gowns and elegant loafers accompanies the collection.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Alice Waese’s wonderland
16 August
New York-based Alice Waese is a jewellery and fashion designer whose background lies in fine art.
Waese’s design process often begins with a drawing, or an image from a dream or the natural world. From there, the designer sources objects from the drawing or image, and transposes this into materials such as silver, gold or different stones.
The botanical forms in Art Nouveau furniture were an inspiration for Waese’s A/W 2016 collection, resulting in pieces both elegant and abstractly organic.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
In the bag
15 August
German bag brand Tsatsas is adding two new designs to its collection for A/W 2016. The 'Atlas', a sleek shoulder bag, and' Biko', a reinterpreted briefcase, are handcrafted from the finest cowhide, finished with Italian brass studs and lined with blue nappa leather.
The bags are another example of Esther Schulze-Tsatsas and Dimitrios Tsatsas’ passion for minimalist design. These new styles boast the unmistakable, contemporary elegance for which Tsatsas is world renowned.
Writer: Hannah Edwards; Photography: Gerhardt Kellermann
Showroom vortex
12 August
Remy Uno is a Marseilles-born artist well known for his ability to successfully work in both the studio and in the streets.
For the pre-spring 2017 Emilio Pucci ‘Resort’ collection, Uno installed his work Vortice (Vortex) in the brand’s Milan showroom. Part of a wider project on anamorphosis and the way the eye moves, the work is curated by art historian Valentina Casacchia. The work is a complex installation of mirrors inspired by the 'Vortici' print, one of the most beguiling patterns from the ‘Resort’ collection, designed by Massimo Giorgetti.
Writer: Daniel Scheffler
Havaianas hits the beach
11 August
It’s all about Rio right now and Havaianas has created a special collection celebrating the best thing the Brazilian city has to offer – the beach. Twelve uniquely designed sandals have been introduced to celebrate each section of the beach that stretches from Leme to Leblon in Rio. Each design is to mark each 'Postos' or lifeguard station, marking the different zones where people of all kinds come together as one.
Writer: Ievan Darwin
Oliver Spencer goes global
10 August
Music has always been a big inspiration to designer Oliver Spencer – and his A/W 2016 collection is no exception. Following in the footsteps of maverick musician Ginger Baker and his legendary trips to Africa in the 1970s, Spencer immersed himself in the world of Afrobeat. Stripy knits, rusty corduroys, neat porkpie hats, patched suedes and slim cut jackets all tap into the spirit of the scene.
To celebrate the inspiration behind the collection, Spencer brought together some of his favourite musicians and friends for a jamming session and captured it all on film.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Viva la Hava
9 August
This season, Proenza Schouler expands its ‘Hava’ bag family with the ‘Hava Top Handle’ as well as several cross body styles.
The name ‘Hava’, which is Cuban-Spanish slang for bag, gives a little nod to the city of Havana – the original inspiration for the Spring 2016 collection during which the range first launched.
Hand crafted in Italy, the bags feature the brand’s signature design elements such as topstitching and painted edges.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Furry friends
8 August
Fendi's Fendirumi ambassadors, Piro-chan and Bug-kun, have been touring London this past week to celebrate the opening of the Roman brand's summer pop-up at Harrods. The giant mascots pay homage to the Japanese phenomenon of kigurumi animal suits, and are also re-imagined in miniature bag charm form for purchase.
The Harrods Fendirumi pop-up is open until Tuesday 30 August.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Dover Street's new resident
5 August
Golden Goose Deluxe Brand has opened its latest flagship store on the corner of London's Dover Street and Hay Hill. Showcasing the Italian brand's women's, men's, children's and HAUS/GGDB collections across two floors, the light-flooded boutique's key design features include expanses of white Carrara marble, industrial-inspired floating racks, an antique Venetian mirror and a locally sourced vintage 1950s velvet sofa.
Golden Goose Deluxe Brand can be found at 30 Dover Street, W1S 4NB.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Kenzo and H&M’s jungle fever
4 August
The first glimpses of H&M’s long-awaited collaboration with Parisian label Kenzo have been revealed. The collection features a striking tiger print that is bold, colourful and exudes individuality.
The first three images from the lookbook feature London make-up artist Isamaya Ffrench, musician Oko Ebombo, activist Amy Small and DJ Juliana Huxtable. More are to be revealed with a collection that celebrates young creatives and influencers.
The collection will be available in over 250 selected H&M stores worldwide, as well as online, from 3 November.
Writer: Ievan Darwin
G-Star Raw x Marc Newson
3 August
Industrial designer Marc Newson continues his collaboration with G-Star Raw for A/W 2016 with a collection of updated menswear pieces.
Using premium fabrics such as Japanese selvedge denim and leather finishes, the classic bomber, five-pocket denim jacket and sweaters return in vivid colours, in addition to a graphic chevron print.
Standout pieces include the 'MN Parka' inspired by the iconic 'M65 Fishtail Army Parka'; and the 'MN Wool Jacket', a new take on the varsity bomber with grained leather sleeves in a vibrant shade of cinnamon.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Chanel's Coco Chain frames
2 August
Chanel has launched a new range of eyewear entitled Chanel Coco Chain. Named after its famous founder, the collection presents three optical styles as well as four frames for sunglasses. All styles, including a classic pilot frame and cat eye, feature Chanel’s iconic metal chain interlaced with leather.
The lenses match the colourful frames and play with mirrored and gradated effects. The design would, of course, not be complete without the brand’s well-known double C, which is discretely punctuated on the chain.
Chanel Coco Chain will be available in boutiques from September.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
MSGM's rave room
1 August
The Italian brand MSGM's Milanese showroom continues its seasonal evolution with a new light installation designed by regular collaborator Fabio Ferrillo. Titled Aisle and created by studio OFF Arch, the rave intervention pairs large images of Italian photographer Alice Rainis' work with fuchsia fluorescent tubes and an Andrea Ratti-curated soundtrack. The effect is a feeling of visual and chromatic disorientation.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Off & racing
29 July
In celebration of London's impending summer of sport, Être Cécile has teamed up with Shoreditch concept store Modern Society to debut the brand's pre-fall 2016 Olympics Collection.
The one day only pop-up at 33 Redchurch Street today rounds up the season's competitive edge, from primary hued speed-striped track pants to their signature tees emblazoned with 'No.1' and 'Rapide'. Get a run on.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Event Horizon
28 July
Launching as part of Givenchy's A/W 2016 collection is the Horizon Bag. The design has an architectural shape and monochromatic aesthetic – the clean silhouette is one of Riccardo Tisci’s accessory trademarks. The Horizon comes in different sizes and a variety of colours, and is available in three different fabric styles – leather, suede and exotic.
Writer: Nathalie König
Herschel Supply Co's steadfast bags
27 July
Accessories brand Herschel Supply Co pushes fabric innovation forward with its dynamic BHW Collection of backpacks. The bags feature the label's first trademarked fabric technology with ApexKnit – a stretchable woven material that retains its intended form.
Available in black, grey and orange, the bags are currently available from Selfridges and premium stockists worldwide.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Greenwich Traveltime
26 July
Coinciding with this season’s summer travel spirit, Smythson has launched its new carry-on luggage collection. Named after Greenwich Meantime, the Greenwich collection embodies both Smythson’s British heritage as well as the timeless nature of the designs.
Handcrafted in Italy, the collection features a selection of different sized calf leather luggage pieces as well as travel accessories.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Timo Trunks
25 July
Adding a little extra graphic edge to your poolside pursuits this summer is Bangkok-based men's swim brand Timo Trunks. Creative director Pow Foongfaungchaveng's latest punchy prints offer a playful riff on timeless patterns in an unexpected colour range that feels refreshingly modern.
Utilising fast-drying, water repellent microfibre fabric, Foongfaungchaveng's trunks also possess as much tech cred as they do sartorial sass. Dive in.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Wanderknit
22 July
Designer Emily Diamandis is an intrepid traveller. Her father is Bangladeshi, her mother Welsh and Diamandis grew up in Brighton, before moving to Asia where she solidified her relationships with hand weaving collectives in Rajasthan and denim mills in Japan.
Her next move was to New York for Rag & Bone, where she is still based, having set up her own knitwear-focused lifestyle brand Tabula Rasa in 2013. ‘It’s a cross over from the way we dress to the way we travel,’ she says of her artisanal collection, that is dominated with myriad knitted textures and techniques.
‘That’s Peruvian chain knit,’ she says, talking through her A/W 2016 offering at MatchesFashion’s townhouse – a collection that makes you want to forget about ever wearing anything woven ever again. ‘That's space dyed then hand macramed,’ she continues, referring to one webbed dress. Her super-fine silk mohairs mingle with chunky Aran cables. ‘I like to use yarns as my paints and pencils,’ the modern day journeywoman adds.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Packing a punch
21 July
Louis Vuitton’s new range of packaging pays homage to the house’s origins as a luggage maker, bringing back the bright ‘Imperial Saffron’ shade that has featured across its pieces since the 1920s. It can be seen on many iconic heritage pieces, such as the 'Citroën' trunk from the Louis Vuitton archives.
The distinctive yellow is highlighted with blue ribbon, creating a modern twist on the signature look, reminiscent of the golden age of travel. The raw cotton ribbons and flat-pack boxes show a greater focus on sustainability on behalf of the brand.
Writer: Hannah Edwards
Frenn revels in Scandinavian simplicity
20 July
Frenn is a Helsinki-based menswear brand that combines tailoring with Nordic simplicity.
For S/S 2017, design duo Antti Laitinen and Jarkko Kallio looked to the graphic lines seen in city architecture fused with their love of the great outdoors.
Softly tailored jackets and trousers printed with graphic stripes and bold checks offer a dynamic contrast with one another, while shirts and knits come in linen-cotton to add further ease. The brand's wares use only ecologically-sourced European fabrics and are hand-manufactured.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Rhythm and Moves
19 July
To celebrate its A/W 2016 collection, Hugo Boss has released an energetic video directed by Barnaby Roper. Titled Rhythm and Moves, the film introduces a bored young man waiting in a reception room. Becoming restless, he begins to explore.
A single finger tap evolves into spinning, striding and gliding; all while his outfits seamlessly change to the beat. Contemporary silhouettes made from iconic materials such as houndstooth and corduroy slide through abandoned rooms.
The film ends as it began, with the man back in the room, while we’re left to wonder if it was all just a dream.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Luxury waste
18 July
Plane is an innovative new British brand that produces bags and accessories, which are both sustainable and durable, originally derived from recycled aeronautical materials. Founded by Ben Tucker in July 2015, Plane rescues aircraft seating fabrics from landfill and turns them into modern small leather goods, which the company terms ‘luxury waste’.
All the products are made in the UK, and a selection of items is available to order via pledges to Plane’s Kickstarter page.
Writer: Hannah Edwards
Raquel Allegra’s LA home
15 July
Fashion designer Raquel Allegra has launched her flagship boutique on Los Angeles’ West 3rd street, enlisting Montalba Architects (of Little Beach House and Nobu Malibu fame) to make her longtime bricks and mortar dream come to life.
Behind the steel door and tree branch handle, the narrow space is rugged yet sophisticated with polished concrete floors, teak woods and two central skylights that cast a glow down on the raw stucco walls, antique brass sculptures and racks that suspend the ethereal designs from the ceiling. Hand-dyed cashmere, webbed tees and printed silks with delicate-to-rugged detailing are all staples of the collection which fans can try on in the glass dressing rooms with mechanical linen drapes.
Writer: Carole Dixon
Anya Hindmarch's summer selection
14 July
British designer Anya Hindmarch is offering a seasonal collection of men’s pieces this July. The capsule collection will include three styles of bags, small leather goods and sneakers.
All the pieces include signature graphic treatments such smiley faces, googly eyes and Space Invaders symbols, giving her fine craftsmanship the usual dose of humour.
The collection launched on 1 July and can be found globally in-store and online.
Writer: Nathalie König
Berluti hits the track
13 July
Berluti has created a hybrid shoe that seamlessly moulds a formal last with a sports-inspired sole.
The ‘Fast Track’ shoe comes with an upper crafted from the house's newly sourced leather, Vitello Unico, and features brogue detailing on the toecap, while the sole carries a bold flash of colour that takes it lead from the world of athletic footwear. The collection is now available to buy in store.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Just one
12 July
This week marks the launch of PER/se, a new label by Mandeep and Hardeep Kaur.
Exploring the universe of a single object, the brand’s Nebula coat will be re-interpreted bi-monthly via a series of collaborations. For the first edition, design textile company Kvadrat was invited to create the fabric from which the coats are being made.
Featuring discreet pockets in supple leatherette and origami inspired sleeves, each coat is made to order in London and will be personally delivered.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Walking on water
11 July
London brand Orlebar Brown launched in 2007 with a tailored approach to men’s swim shorts, offering wares simultaneously suitable for the beach and pool, as well as being smart enough for a post-dip drink or lunch.
The range is now evolving, with the first full coverage footwear you can swim in. Designed with an ultra lightweight sole that is comfortable and practical, and an open mesh weave for quick drainage, it's the ultimate dual-purpose shoe for wet or dry.
Writer: Elisa Carassai
Surfin’ USA
8 July
Saint Laurent’s unisex 'New Wave' S/S 2016 catwalk sunglasses are pure Cali-cool.
First debuted at Hedi Slimane’s summer menswear show for the iconic French house, the oversized glasses come in black and ivory, and are composed of hand-polished acetate frames with smoky, retro lenses.
Writer: Elisa Carassai
Santoni's French fancy
7 July
Today marks the opening of the much-anticipated Santoni boutique in Paris – the first of 11 new concepts to launch this year.
Conceived by Wallpaper* Design Awards judge Patricia Urquiola, the space follows in the footsteps of the brand's two flagship stores in Milan and New York, accommodating fine men’s footwear and leather goods, all presented in a sophisticated 50 sq m space on Avenue George V.
Decorated with Kvadrat wall coverings, green capitonnè Moroso poufs and a marble fireplace topped with a majestic mirror, the space oozes luxury, intimacy and warmth.
Writer: Melinda Akerbrant
Step up
6 July
British luxury shoe maker John Lobb is releasing a series of short films over the next few months, that celebrate the brand's heritage and commitment to craftsmanship.
The second film explores the relationship between an artisan and his tools, and shows the process of turning humble materials into objects of refinement. Following on from the creation of a wooden last in the first film, watch a shoemaker use a unique pattern to cut a flawless leather base above. There are three more installments to come within the ‘series’ concept.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Atlein’s accolades
4 July
Antonin Tron, founder of Atlein, has been announced as the winner of 2016’s First Collection Prize at the ANDAM Fashion Awards.
Tron, who studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, trained at Louis Vuitton, Givenchy and Balenciaga before launching his own brand last March. Atlein’s debut collection was defined by clean cuts and structured drapes, which proposed an athletic silhouette for a dynamic woman.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Come rain or shine
4 July
Parisian milliner Maison Michel has teamed up with British outerwear label Mackintosh on a capsule collection of waterproof hats.
Each style has been designed and hand-stitched in Maison Michel's Paris HQ, using Mackintosh's signature waterproofed rubber bonded cotton fabric, before being finished off by hand in Scotland. The unisex collaboration includes a stylish spin on three classic styles: the fisherman’s hat, bucket and flap cap.
The collection will be available from Colette in Paris and The Webster in Miami, as well as Maison Michel Paris stores and Mackintosh outlets.
Writer: Elisa Carassai
Sleeping at Selfridges
1 July
The womanswear brand Cherevichkiotvichki has revealed an artistic display at London's Selfridges to introduce its A/W 2016 collection – its first to be stocked in the store. Translating as ‘a shoe by Victoria’ in old Slavic, Cherevichkiotvichki was founded by Victoria Andrejeva. Originally focusing on shoes, the brand recently expended to garments.
Andrejeva’s ‘Colours of Sleep’ installation features five female mannequins gently resting against a patchwork backdrop. Each mannequin is wrapped in soft coloured garments of hand spun silks, wools and linens. Both the mannequins and backdrop were finished with a natural dyeing technique also used for the garments in the collection.
The installation will be on display until 9 July at Selfridges’ Oxford Street store, on the Designer Womenswear Floor.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Take three
30 June
The latest arrival to the Céline Paris family, the 'Trifold' bag is further confirmation of the brand’s strong attention to craft and design detail.
Following classic pieces such as the 'Luggage', the 'Trapeze', the 'Trotteur' and the classic 'Clutch', the 'Trifold' is one of the most sophisticated and luxurious handbags produced by the French maison.
Made in high quality leather, the bag comes in monochromatic tones, with the classic gold printed logo on the base.
Writer: Roberta Pinna
Versace in Boston
29 June
Versace has collaborated with British architect Jamie Fobert on a newly opened boutique in Boston. The 225 sq m retail space features mosaic floors inspired by 9th century Byzantine churches, in contrast with Perspex walls and floating shelves.
To celebrate the opening, Donatella Versace has designed a limited edition of the 'Palazzo Sultan' bag in laminated leather craquelé, embellished with an iconic Medusa head.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Nica’s cross-body backpack
28 June
The London label Nica – conceived by South Korean bag designer Nica Kim – has launched its A/W 2016 collection. From colourful prints to classic shapes, Kim’s designs combine high British quality with an Oriental sense of fun.
The new collection sees the introduction of a cross-body backpack, which comes both in black and chestnut, and is a perfect fit for everyday practicality.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Globe-Trotter and McQueen's capsule carry-ons
27 June
The iconic British brands Globe-Trotter and Alexander McQueen have joined forces to collaborate on a very special capsule case collection.
The limited-edition pairing includes two rock 'n' roll pieces: a 13-inch mini utility case and a 21-inch trolley case. Studded with silver rivets and sealed with a rather serious skull padlock, the case interiors are of course lined in McQueen's signature ivory and black skull print.
Writer: Elisa Carassai
Legal high
24 June
Firebrand fashion design duo Eckhaus Latta have opened their first store in Los Angeles, in an unpolished East Hollywood neighborhood. Housed in the minimal confines of a former cannabis dispensary called Natural Life Healing (it’s still on Yelp), the brand enlisted designers Emma Price and Skye Chamberlain to create a cosy single-rack boutique connected by a mirrored door to Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta’s design studio.
The cult label’s wearable anti-fashion earned them inclusion as artists in the Hammer Museum’s recently opened 'Made in LA' biennial. True to form, the store will feature installations by artist friends of the designers; currently, Nora Jane Slade’s explosively bright paintings and ceramics pop in the corner. A show by renowned sculptor Jessi Reaves opens in August.
Writer: Maxwell Williams; Photography: Rob Kulisek
Holland & Holland’s new faces
23 June
Founded in 1835, Holland & Holland finds its roots in the English countryside. The British brand has now joined forces with long time friends and English roses Stella Tennant and Isabella Cawdor, who have turned their stylish hands to the brand’s timely reinvention. ‘Everything should have a function,’ says Tennant who has always embraced the bucolic lifestyle. ‘Holland & Holland aspires to both use and beauty.’
In spite of the pair’s high fashion connections, here they have been determined to retain the functionality of the house’s traditionally masculine silhouettes, reworking multi-pocket jackets and high-waisted trousers, adding luxe fur vests and the highest quality plaids and tweeds.
The collection will be available from June 2016 in the Holland & Holland store on London’s Bruton Street, and from September 2016 at Dover Street Market.
Writer: Roberta Pinna
Add to basket: Christopher Kane
22 June
London's Christopher Kane launches his first in-house e-commerce platform today. The site, which will ship globally, will run the gauntlet of ready-to-wear and accessories, including special content across womenswear and menswear. In celebration of the launch, the platform will also be featuring a preview of A/W 2016's ‘K’ sweaters, which won’t retail anywhere else until the full season drops in August.
Unique, limited edition pieces (think Kane paperweights) will also be exclusively available for a limited amount of time, which provides all the more reason to keep clicking back.
Writer: Elisa Carassai
Gucci DIY, part 2
21 June
Gucci’s Do It Yourself initiative kicked off last month at the house’s Milan flagship, with the opportunity to customise a 'Dionysus' purse. The next phase gives customers the opportunity to personalise men’s tailoring and unisex jackets, as well as shoes.
Through fabrics, buttons and monogram lettering options, the DIY initiative allows for a free interpretation of house creative director Alessandro Michele’s aesthetic vision. Depending on the garment, there is even the option to apply a motif on your customised item. Patches or embroidery chosen from the Gucci portfolio can be applied either discreetly or as a large statement appliqué.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Ettinger: a modern classic
20 June
Established in 1934, Ettinger has more than 80 years experience in the making of leather accessories.
Born from a collaboration with London design agency PearsonLloyd, the two-tone 'TT' collection revamps classic shapes in unexpected hues. Contrasting leathers in pastel tones accentuate the brand’s timeless shapes, giving wallets and coin purses a fresh twist. Functionality and craftsmanship are the British brand’s priorities, meaning these pieces will last for many years to come.
Writer: Elisa Carassai
Homme home
17 June
Issey Miyake has opened its first independent Homme Plissé Issey Miyake store within the stylish Tokyo suburb of Daikanyama. Designed by Japanese industrial designer Naoto Fukasawa, the concrete space is fractionated by dramatic wide beams, from which the sportswear-inspired clothes are neatly hung, adding a touch of colour to the otherwise urban environment. The men's lifestyle store is a further development of the brand's signature pleating technique, reworked here with a sporty twist.
Writer: Roberta Pinna
Photography: Masaya Yoshimura
Firenze calling
16 June
As the men's fashion week calendar lunges into full throttle for spring/summer 2017, Prada welcomed the fashion pack to Pitti Uomo with an exclusive in-store display of portraiture by Willy Vanderperre, which takes visitors behind-the-scenes of the house's autumn/winter 2016 collection. The in-store series' second act opens in Milan on 16 June, and will feature a digital showcase masterminded by OMA and Michael Rock, followed by a final display at the Paris Faubourg Saint-Honoré boutique, starring Craig Dean's haunting campaign pictures of Eddie Redmayne from 22 June.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Preview: Ganni goes technical
15 June
Copenhagen-based womenswear brand Ganni have extended their popular range of coats and jackets with a new line of technical outerwear for autumn/winter 2016. The new line is constructed from high-quality tech fabrics that are designed to protect from the rain and hard weather conditions, while remaining breathable and allowing body heat to easily escape.
The collection consists of four pieces – a padded bomber jacket; a double coat with a hood, hidden zippers and a detachable quilted inner-jacket; a long raincoat with detachable hood; and an entirely quilted jacket. All of the styles have been thoroughly road tested by Ganni’s design team in Copenhagen.
Writer: Jason Hughes
DKNY x New Museum
14 June
Since designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne took the helm at DKNY last year, the quintessentially New York brand has been tinkering with its modern, street savvy legacy. The latest permutation of this is ‘The New Women’s Project’, a collaboration with the New Museum’s New Inc incubator, which provides workspaces and professional development to artists working in art, technology and design. As of this month, DKNY’s flagship Soho store will feature a rotating series of artworks by Andrea Wolf, Karolina Ziulkoski, Emilie Baltz and Nitzan Bartov, commissioned especially for its shop windows each month.
Wolf’s piece (pictured) riffs on the mosaic tiles that adorn most of the city’s subway stations. The animated digital patterns merge and collide into each other like a kaleidoscope to capture the frenetic rhythm of New York life.
Writer: Pei-Ru Keh
Chanel Catwalk: The Complete Karl Lagerfeld Collections
13 June
Celebrating Thames & Hudson’s first title in a series of high-end tomes showcasing some of the greatest collections of the world’s top fashion houses, Chanel Catwalk: The Complete Karl Lagerfeld Collections serves up the back catalogue of one of the most successful fashion unions of all time.
A treasure trove of inspiration, the book illustrates the influences behind Lagerfeld's couture and ready-to-wear collections, his muses, the accessories, statement beauty looks and flamboyant set designs. Starting from his first collection in 1983, the tome also offers an exemplary overview on how Lagerfeld has turned the iconic double C's into one of the most revered fashion powerhouses.
Writer: Elisa Carassai
Bottega Veneta's 'Art of Collaboration' exhibition opens in Beijing
9 June
Celebrating the combined milestones of Tomas Maier’s 15th anniversary at Bottega Veneta and the house's 50th birthday since its founding in Vicenza, the brand has launched a new Beijing exhibition showcasing prints from the tome The Art of Collaboration at the Ullens Centre for Contemporary Art (UCCA).
'Art of Collaboration' was launched by Maier a year after he joined the company as creative director in 2001. The on-going project consists of collaborating with international photographers and visual artists on the brand’s campaigns each season, and culminated in 2015 with the release of the book. Collaborators selected by Maier include Nan Goldin, Peter Lindbergh, Robert Longo and David Armstrong.
The exhibition features a selection of photographs from the project and runs until 28 June.
Writer: Elisa Carassai
Other gets crafty
8 June
London-based brand Other has teamed up with British textile suppliers Merchant & Mills on an exclusive range of menswear separates for S/S 2016.
With a focus on traditional craft techniques, block-printed polka dots, geometric shapes and hand drawn checks adorn utility-style shirts and artisan smock tops, while loose-fit trousers come in washed, heavy linen.
The limited-edition collection is available at the brand's Kingly Street London flagship store and online.
Writer: Jason Hughes
The Pokit suit
7 June
Bayode Oduwole and Claire Pringle of British brand Pokit are known for designing contemporary classics crafted from traditional British fabrics. Having successfully cut a niche in the market with their unique approach to ready-to-wear, the brand has now launched a men’s bespoke tailoring line.
The service offers customers the choice of five key jacket and three trouser styles, while fabric options come courtesy of UK based mills. Unlike other bespoke services, Pokit already have each suit style made up in all sizes, allowing customers to fully experience what looks best in their first fitting.
Watch a film of architect and Pokit suit wearer Jonathan Sergison waxing lyrical on the approach to his practice. The short features his apartment building in Hottingen Zurich, designed by EMI architekten.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Equipment and Kate Moss team up for a rock 'n' roll capsule
6 June
In celebration of the model’s 1990s-synonymous style, a new limited-edition collection is signature Moss. Bowie-inspired lightning bolt prints electrify cropped sweaters, star-printed neck-tie shirts are layered under well-tailored classic blazers, while Equipment’s button down staples are monogrammed with a handwritten ‘KM’.
Moss’ trademark palette of red, black, white, grey, and leopard print unites the line, which also includes slinky slip dresses, slim black or wide leg trousers and a festival-ready military jacket.
The collection will be available exclusively from Net-A-Porter until 16 June.
Writer: Elisa Carassai
Colour worship
3 June
Within the gothic-style cloisters of Westminster Abbey, Alessandro Michele presented an eccentric riff on traditional Victorian dress for his hyper-hued Gucci Cruise collection.
The house also saw to each guest's pew-side comfort, with each seat sporting a Gucci-green hydra-embroidered pillow, befitting of Michele's eclectic style.
Writer: Katrina Israel; Photography (left): Jason Lloyd-Evans
Garden society
2 June
Pansies took over Christopher Kane's Mayfair store and, indeed, his latest hyper-real collection during a salon presentation of the London designer's Resort 2017 line yesterday.
Rooted in free-flowing silhouettes and mixed separates, pleated split skirts were sprinkled with sequins and teamed back with oversized cardigans, as manmade gingham checks pushed up against oversized pansy photo prints.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Dior's British escape
1 June
Following a hearty lunch on the Orient Express as it hurtled through the English countryside, the stately home of Blenheim Palace was the imposing setting for Dior's Cruise 2017 presentation, that fused the house's elegant French codes with a modern spin on traditional British aristo garb.
Christian Dior showed a collection at Blenheim in 1954, and 62 years later his maison's latest hunting party was devoted to gathered silk floral tea dresses (with plenty of puffed sleeves), equestrian scene jacquards, fluted capri pants (a jet-set hangover) and Queenly topcoats that had an upright, masculine eccentricity. This grand tour's next stop? Scott's of Mayfair, where the house has installed a floral Dior Terrace until 12 June.
Writer: Katrina Israel; Photography: Daniel Jackson for Dior
Louis Vuitton’s tropical travels
31 May
Oscar Niemeyer's Niterói Contemporary Art Museum – located in the tropical utopia of Rio de Janeiro – turned out to be the perfect stage for Nicolas Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton Cruise 2017 show.
Ghesquière paid homage to Brazilian artists Helio Oiticica and Aldemir Martins, whose works came to life in the form of colourful blocked prints, abstract cutouts and lightweight capes and dresses made from parachute fabric. Beautifully embroidered skirts wrapped like beach towels and futuristic thongs hinted at Brazil’s beach culture.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
John Varvatos Moscow store opens
27 May
American menswear designer John Varvatos opened his first Russian store this week in the countries capital Moscow, the brand's 25th stand alone retail space globally.
In true rock 'n' roll style the opening event welcomed fans of John Varvatos to experience a concert that celebrated Russian and American culture, music and fashion.
The 3,200 sq ft store will stock all of the John Varvatos lines including the brands catwalk collection, footwear collaboration with Converse, fragrances and full accessories range.
Writer: Jason Hughes
The grand tour
25 May
Until 19 June, Louis Vuitton's New Bond Street maison is hosting 'The Art of the Journey', a showcase dedicated to the brand's enchanting trunk heritage, and continued expertise and innovation from 1885–2016.
The journey opens with a trunk tower inspired by a 1970s black and white photograph of the Tour Eiffel by Jacques Henri Lartigue, and continues through the store's accessory and women's gallery (look out for the Earl of Lonsdale's 1927 picnic trunk, the 1928 grooming suitcase of the Maharaja Hari Singh and Nicolas Ghesquière's Epi Denim 'Wardrobe Trunk' from his first A/W 2014 collection), before continuing in the house's upstairs Apartment.
Here, within the Gentleman's Room, the house's 'Malle Casino' (complete with logoed chips) holds court alongside the 'Cave Whisky' and 'Boite Caviar'. Next door, a fold-out trunk bed and 'Malle Croquet' wind things down some.
Nowadays, it takes between two and six months for a custom-made trunk, and as Vuitton's UK managing director Tom Meggle explains, 'Hopefully this will serve to further inspire the imagination of our clients.' The house has also rounded up a selection of pieces from its 'Objets Nomades' collection, also on show in The Apartment, to do just that.
Louis Vuitton, 17–20 New Bond St, London, W1S 2RB. Guided tours available upon request in store.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Super silver
24 May
Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter – a vibrant historical centre in ‘the city of a thousand trades’ – forms the basis for a new brutalism-inspired collection from Alice Made This.
Featuring both polished and matte finishes, the ‘Silversmith’ collection includes ‘Bancroft’ cuff bracelets and a tie bar, and ‘Erno’ and ‘Denys’ cufflinks (natty references to those titans of brutalist design). This is the label’s first collection to be made completely out of solid silver and each piece is stamped with the Birmingham industry hallmark.
‘Silversmith’ is available online and at selected retailers from this month onwards.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Garden life
23 May
In celebration of London's incoming summer, Hermès has opened the first-floor terrace of its New Bond Street flagship for refreshments and sweet treats until 30 May.
Watched over by Henry Moore's Draped Reclining Figure sculpture, the topiary-lined courtyard will be open daily from 11am to 4pm.
Hermès, 155 New Bond Street, London W1S 2UA
Writer: Katrina Israel; Photography: Adam Slama
Pramma time
20 May
For her third eponymous collection, Italian designer Stefania Pramma continues her focus of uniting a minimalistic aesthetic with an idiosyncratic sense of humour.
Introducing graphic check-like patterns, metal chain embellishments, bold new colours such as rose pink and hunter green, and playful decorative elements – including delicate clusters of white jade, onyx and pink opal – Pramma’s designs are perfect for lovers of architectural rigour, with a good dash of femininity.
Writer: Elisa Carassai
Montrose on Montrose
19 May
Opened in March this year, 18montrose’s Glasgow hub is a welcome, multifaceted retail space. Y-3, Common Projects and Stone Island are just a few of the many renowned brands that can be found in store, alongside uniquely curated beauty products, books and homewares.
18montrose extends beyond this physical space by providing an online shop, presenting customers with an innovative retail experience that reflects the company's spirit.
New locations will soon be opening in Nottingham and London; in-store events with local DJs and artists will be taking place to celebrate 18montrose's arrival in these cities.
Writer: Roberta Pinna
Mr Hare's London flagship
18 May
British luxury shoe brand Mr Hare opens its new flagship store in London’s buzzing Notting Hill this week.
Taking inspiration from the Bauhaus, designer and founder Marc Hare has cleverly used industrial materials such as laminate plywood, lacquered steel, mirror and textured carpet titles to create a graphic interior that showcase the brands growing collection of high-end shoes and accessories.
The store also comes equipped with a coffee and rum bar, and will double up as an after-hours events platform.
Writer: Jason Hughes
All at sea
17 May
Historic denim brand Seafarer has teamed up with Italian leather label DROMe to create a reconfigured version of the former's classic bellbottom trouser. Originally founded in Brooklyn, Seafarer supplied the US Navy for many years before segueing into fashion.
DROMe's dream was to enrich the Seafarer collection with leather. The result is the iconic flared 'Penelope' style recreated in five different shades of suede. The design will be available from July onwards.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Jacquemus' fresh e-commerce spin
16 May
Known for his intricate, deconstructed shirting, French designer and LVMH Prize winner Simon Porte Jacquemus horsed around for his latest S/S 2016 campaign collection 'La Nez Rouge', which features plenty of new riffs on a classic wardrobe archetype.
Shot in an idyllic field, 'Le Look Blanc' and 'La Chemise Petite Jean' are the perfect realisation of how his talent for tailoring and his love for the surreal and symbolic merge poetically.
Writer: Elisa Carassai
Everlane Shoe Park
13 May
In its latest effort to bring its digital universe to reality, the minimalist e-tail label Everlane has collaborated with set designer (and Wallpaper* friend) Robert Storey to create an interactive playground dedicated to its women’s shoe collection.
Located in a lofty, column-filled space in New York’s Soho district, the pastel-toned installation will be welcoming visitors for the next ten days. Once through the rainbow-shaped archways, visitors will be asked to take off their shoes before venturing into the cork-lined space, where six Everlane styles – from sandals to leather mules – will be ripe for the picking.
The sculptural displays, made from plywood and mirrored aluminium, can be climbed over, walked through and sat on, while a peg board wall shows off a line of dipped canvas backpacks, tote bags and hold-alls.
Everlane Shoe Park – located at 83 Wooster Street – is open daily from 11am–7pm until 22 May.
Writer: Pei-Ru Keh
Ten years in the driving seat
12 May
Louis Vuitton’s iconic driving shoe celebrates its tenth anniversary this year.
And to celebrate, the shoe is available in both a neutral colour palette and eye-popping rainbow hues – all topped off with LV's signature initials. The driver's hand-stitched, soft leather makes them an easy travel companion for a summer on the road.
Writer: Melinda Akerbrant
John Lobb steps forward
11 May
John Lobb has launched its 'Featherweight' collection; a trio of super lightweight, unlined suede shoes that bring a barefoot sensation to the wearer and come with natural soles.
Designed by artistic director Paula Gerbase, the shoes is replete with hidden laces and an overlaid saddle, giving a refined and sleek feel. The supple suede upper hugs close to the foot, making it fully flexible and the perfect summer shoe.
Writer: Jason Hughes
J Brand dives in to swim
10 May
This summer, denim label J Brand is introducing its first range of J Brand bikinis. The pieces come in a mid-blue wash and are made of a new, flexible fabric (registerd as J Brand Hi-Def Stretch – ISKO Blue Skin) that offers great comfort because of its four-way stretch.
Denim being denim the bikinis aren’t waterproof, but will be perfect for the festival season.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Alex Eagle takes flight in Soho
5 May
This week, Alex Eagle opens its new store at 6–10 Lexington Street, Soho. The new space will shift away from the idea of a conventional shop, repositioning the retail space as a ‘creative hub’.
The space will stock own-brand Alex Eagle wares, alongside other fashion, art and furniture pieces. Also included in the new hub – and here’s where the ‘creative’ part really comes in to play – is an Alex Eagle studio: an events and gallery space conceptualised with the intention of inspiring outside of the usual retail parameters.
Writer: Nathalie König
Mih Jeans' London pop-up
6 May
London-based denim brand Mih Jeans is celebrating its 10th anniversary with a summer pop-up at 7 Upper James Street, Soho and a ten-piece capsule collection of their cult archive styles to mark the milestone.
The temporary boutique, which features a mix of denim and pre-autumn 2016 styles, will remain in-situ until 23 May, and follows on from the brand's new special identity (pictured), designed in collaboration with Matteo Fogale and Laetitia de Allegri, which they are rolling out within key department stores globally. Chief creative officer Chloe Lonsdale says a bricks and mortar store is also on the cards, but before that she plans to expand the brand's lifestyle possibilities. Standby for accessories and even homewares.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Ferragamo Off-Duty
5 May
Salvatore Ferragamo have launched a new line of unisex accessories, fusing sporty, streetwear-inspired fashions with the brand’s traditional craftsmanship.
The gender-neutral S/S 2016 collection – dubbed ‘Ferragamo Off-Duty’ – includes a lace-up and slip-on sneaker, classic moccasin in various summer hues and the driver, which the brand likens to a sports car in its sleek design.
The collection is available at Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques across the globe.
Writer: Alex Fraser
Made in Walthamstow, by Alfred Dunhill
4 May
British luxury goods brand Dunhill has produced a short film exploring the traditional craftsmanship employed at its Walthamstow leather workshop, in London’s East End.
Skilled artisans work on making accessories ranging from calfskin weekend bags and attaché cases to embossed wallets, alongside specially commissioned pieces from customers. Each item features the signature of its particular worker on the leather label inside.
Watch the film by clicking above.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Hedi's abstract jacket
2 May
For his last collection, Saint Laurent creative director Hedi Slimane collaborated with New York artist Alexander Muret to fashion a motorcycle jacket that incorporates his abstract style.
Muret is best known for his wax encaustic works in which language, communication and expression all play a major role.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Lindberg solar
29 April
For those of us heading off to warmer pastures for the bank holiday, Lindberg's avant-garde S/S 2016 'Sun' collection reflects nothing but substance.
Fusing fashion with function, the household eyewear brand's directional use of daring cut-outs and floating solar lenses has been paired with its world-renowned customising service.
In addition to the extremely lightweight titanium frames and a minimalist Scandinavian aesthetic, one can also choose their preferred fit (as with Lindberg's cult optical frames). Cue a selection of temple lengths and adjustable nose-bridges to ensure optimal comfort, whether your summer plans involve swirling sands or city streets.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Andreas Murkudis x Céline
28 April
In celebration of Gallery Weekend Berlin, design destination Andreas Murkudis is presenting a Céline jewellery installation at its gallery-like Potsdamer Strasse store.
Fashioned from an array of natural elements including dried grasses tied with bamboo trim and African-esque vessels by Linck Keramik, the display showcases Phoebe Philo's S/S 2016 bijou collection, composed of dangling forest creatures, along with other enamel porcelain, brass and gold necklace, bracelet and earring designs.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Whitney’s first birthday
27 April
Today marks the first design anniversary of Max Mara’s iconic Whitney bag.
The bag was created in collaboration with Renzo Piano Building Workshop to coincide with the relocation of the Whitney Museum of American Art, from Manhattan's Upper East Side to the Meatpacking district (at the source of the High Line).
Inspired by museum founder Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney herself, this re-imagined version features a leaf and flower relief that embodies both sophistication and Italian craftsmanship.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Italians do it better
26 April
Bespoke Italian tailoring brand Sartoria Giuliva held its first presentation in London this week. Within the grand enclaves of Mark's Club in Mayfair, founders Vittorio d’Agostino and Gerardo Cavaliere talked through a selection of handmade suits crafted in the Neapolitan tradition.
Inspired by the sartorial choices made by gentleman on the Amalfi Coast in the 1950s, each garment is cut from a unique selection of Italian produced fabrics and sewn by a skilled artisan at the brand's Roman atelier. Jackets are softly tailored and structureless, while trousers come slim but with a double pleat. They are also unlined with internal buttoning as a throwback to the days of yesteryear.
Writer: Jason Hughes; Photography: Michelle Beatty
Volez, Voguez, Voyagez
25 April
Louis Vuitton’s Olivier Saillard-curated exhibition, ‘Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton’, arrives in Toyko this week.
The travelling exhibition, which is a retrospective of the brand and its founder’s journey from 1854 until now, showcases the house’s historic alliance with Japan, including its collaborations with Japanese artists such as Murakami and Kusama.
Telling Vuitton’s story through ten chapters, for this Tokyo installment one specially created room, designed by Robert Carsen, has been devoted to Japan. Here, the ultimate symbol of the brand – an antique malle – opens the chapter, which also features objects made by craftsman from Villa Kujoyama, Kyoto.
Writer: Alex Fraser
Denim footprint
22 April
Christina Martini and Nikolas Minoglou's latest Ancient Greek Sandal reinvention for S/S 2016 sees their classic slides' uppers cut in dark denim.
The artfully frayed indigo finishes the brand's five cult styles including the 'Thais' slide and 'Clio' dual-strap sandal, and is also also available in a lighter wash, complemented by a natural sole.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Hats off
21 April
Coinciding with the recent opening of its Paris flagship store, luxury milliner Maison Michel has launched its e-store.
The website, which has also undergone a makeover, now offers customers the chance to purchase the brand's entire catalogue online.
Those disinclined to digital commerce can also pick up one of Maison Michel’s signature felt fedoras at the brand's new store at 22, rue Cambon in Paris.
Writer: Alex Fraser
AMI’s understated opulence
19 April
Following success with stores in Paris and Tokyo, French menswear company AMI has now opened its first London flagship boutique. Located on Duke Street, the new store adopts a Grade II listed former-patisserie building as its home.
The new 240 sq m space has been transformed by architects Studio KO – Alexandre Mattiussi’s fifth collaboration with the firm – exuding elegance and masculinity. With an interior spread across two floors and through the use of contrasting materiality, AMI hopes to showcase its collections in an opulent yet understated manner.
Writer: Sam Clark
Blue is the warmest colour
20 April
French menswear label Officine Générale has once again teamed up with Mr Porter on a capsule collection of summer essentials, their fourth together since their first collaboration in 2014.
Using a traditional Japanese dying technique, the collection consists of 16 pieces in different shades of indigo and will be sold exclusively online. Stand-out pieces included a grandad collar cotton selvedge shirt, yarn dyed chinos and a series of cotton jersey long sleeve t-shirts. Designer Pierre Mahéo also introduces easy-to-wear patterns in the form of indigo polka dots and checks covering shirts and lightweight jackets.
Officine Générale capsule collection will be available from MrPorter.com.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Bold moves
18 April
Affordable Swedish jeanswear titan Cheap Monday has teamed up with Parisian designer Faustine Steinmetz on a new limited edition, unisex denim collection. Inspired by Faustine’s interest in the 1990s Norwegian Black Metal scene and a variety of textural distressing techniques, classic denim archetypes have been re-calibrated using two central fabric manipulation concepts: merino wool felting and fabric pulling. As a result, each piece from the collection's range of denim jackets, jeans and tees is entirely unique, reinforcing Steinmetz’s artisanal approach.
The Cheap Monday x Faustine Steinmetz collection is available online and in-store at Cheap Monday's London Carnaby Street store.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Nik Ramage’s obtuse logic
15 April
Currently being hosted by Paul Smith at No. 9 Albemarle Street is a new exhibition of quirky mechanical sculptures by Nik Ramage. Known for repurposing machines and objects, Ramage is exhibiting over 40 pieces of his work under the name ‘Haphazards’.
A collection of peculiar contraptions, the exhibition aims to fill the downstairs gallery with a cacophony of sound. The wares being displayed are a re-imagining of everyday objects, summed up as a ‘motley crew of unreliable devices and wayward machines, following their own obtuse logic’.
Writer: Sam Clark
Feeling blue?
14 April
Contemporary denim brand AG is launching an exclusively indigo knitwear line for A/W 2016, fittingly named the Indigo Capsule Collection.
It has been inspired by the brand’s desire to give this lifestyle-focused category a new lease of life, resulting in roomy mariner striped tees, fisherman’s roll necks, oversized culottes and cardigan coats, all with a denim-look finish. Many of these soft separates are unisex by design, thanks in part to their voluminous silhouettes and relaxed proportions.
The Indigo Capsule Collection will be available from Harrods and Selfridges.
Writer: Alex Fraser
Hardy heads East
13 April
Pierre Hardy has announced the opening of his premier Japanese boutique, located in Tokyo's Aoyama district. An 80 sq m space, the store was envisioned with the themes of minimalism and modernity in mind.
Conceptualised by the French designer as a place constructed of contrasts, the store aims to encapsulate masculinity and femininity, shadow and light, and several other juxtapositions. Behind the glassy shop-front, the store will offer the fashion house’s shoes and bag collections for men and women.
Writer: Sam Clark
Balmain hits Manhattan
12 April
Balmain has opened its new flagship store in New York, designed by French architects Studio KO. Located in SoHo, the Parisian fashion house’s first American boutique captures the blend of energy, creativity and beauty of downtown Manhattan.
Inspired by the simplicity and spacious nature of American postwar architecture, the 200 sq m interior has been designed to feel like ‘the interior of a modern house perched on a Mediterranean cliff’. The new store will allow Balmain to showcase a larger range of designs for men, women and, soon, children, to an American audience.
Writer: Sam Clark
Valextra's Belgian connection
11 April
With its reputation for refined design, Valextra's choice to work with the young Belgian architect Bernard Dubois is just the latest demonstration of the Italian leather label's good taste.
Dubois has designed a playful, yet minimal environment for the label's Milanese flagship boutique, which was quietly revealed in January. 'When I first entered the store, I found its interiors extremely fascinating for their structure made of columns and beams, which were hidden in the previous concept,' he explains.
Dubois' design is centred on sculptural furniture pieces serving as product display. Comprised of stacks of grey bricks, these components are juxtaposed by beige carpet and pastel coloured walls, thus recalling Valextra's own hybrid of textures, colour and structure in each of its sophisticated wares. Bold, yet clean and inviting, the interiors keep pace with the design fervor that takes over the city during Salone del Mobile.
Writer: Pei-Ru Keh
Gant's S/S 2016 town shirt
8 April
New Haven shirt maker Gant has been producing shirts at their Connecticut factory since 1949. This season they've launched a new sub-brand, Diamond G (its moniker derived from the brand's diamond logo), aimed at outfitting the modern city slicker's wardrobe, for pursuits from work to play.
The line's newest star is the ‘Traveler Shirt’, which is a modern interpretation of the brand's classic 'Good Traveler Shirt' from the 1960s. The slim, 100 per cent cotton fitted style comes in a sateen weave with town collar, and features the Diamond G logo subtly embroidered on the sleeve placket.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Bea Bongiasca x Toiletpaper
7 April
Toiletpaper and Italian designer Bea Bongiasca have collaborated on a new collection, ‘Endless?’, which combines religious iconography with military inspired pieces and chevalier rings.
‘Memento Mori’, the medieval concept of reflecting upon morality, is a partial inspiration for the ten-piece collection, which features silver, gold plated and enamel rings, earrings, necklaces and a brooch.
Pieces are embellished with text reading, ‘Why Me?’ and ‘The End?’ – sentiments typical of Toiletpaper’s irreverent humour and iconic style.
‘Endless?’ is available at Colette, 10 Corso Como and online at the Toiletpaper store.
Writer: Alex Fraser
APC at home
6 April
After seeing the recent work of his sister Laurence, APC founder Jean Touitou felt it was time to make available a selection of her household items in the brands stores worldwide.
The 'La Liste Tunisienne' collection consists of items found in a traditional Tunisian home but with a contemporary twist. Laurence and her team have worked in close collaboration with local artisans on rugs, baskets, placemats, tablecloths, table plates, bowls, fouta towels and dresses for the house.
The collection will be available from APC stores.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Clark Kent's British glasses
5 April
British bespoke eyewear maker Tom Davies has designed an iconic dark-framed glasses model for Superman’s alter-ego Clark Kent, as played by Henry Cavill in the recently released Batman v Superman: Dawn of Justice (such sartorial picks, given the critical response, are somewhat classier than the film itself).
Davies' design reflects Kent's/Superman's very essence – he aimed to play with the lines of the frame to alter the viewer’s perception of the character.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Steve McQueen meets Mr Burberry
4 April
Christopher Bailey has teamed up with Oscar and Turner Prize-winning British director Steve McQueen for the launch of his latest men's fragrance, 'Mr Burberry'.
Shot within London's Café Royal hotel (or more specifically the Ming-green marble bathtub that originally had to be airlifted into the Dome Suite), the campaign's steamy love tryst sets the scene for the woody, herbal scent, that's been concocted by super nose Francis Kurkdjian and is inspired by London's converging contrasts and contradictions.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Victoria Beckham's eastern expansion
1 April
In partnership with retail conglomerate the Joyce Group, Victoria Beckham has opened her first store in Asia. Located within Hong Kong's Landmark mall, the 2,198 sq ft shop has also been designed architect Farshid Moussavi, who has continued the London flagship's polished concrete theme, with Beckham's modern designs hanging from floating racks, punctuated by adjustable gold chains.
Writer: Katrina Israel
(New) New Balance 580
31 March
New Balance’s blend of form and function takes a new stand this week with the unveiling of the Deconstructed 580 – a streamlined, pared down version of its cult favourite, in three different styles. Come 1 April, the sleek three-piece shape will factor a breathable neoprene bootie and heel webbing for improved breathability and a closer fit.
There’s no skimping on the details either – subtle embossing and perforations add a visual flair while a full grain veg-tan leather tongue provides a streetwise edge. Dating back to 1996, the 580 trainer was originally designed as an off-road trail running shoe. Twenty years on, the Deconstructed version brings that ethos to city living (for a mere $139.95).
Writer: Pei-Ru Keh
Curtis Kulig x Bao Bao Issey Miyake bags
30 March
This week sees the launch of an exclusive collaboration between Bao Bao Issey Miyake and New York-based artist Curtis Kulig on a collection of Bao Bao Issey Miyake bags.
The triangular segments which make up the bags have become a canvas for Kulig to paint on. His impulsive ‘Love Me’ message is captured in rich brushstrokes on both totes and clutches. The bags come in a limited run of 25 each and are available from the MoMA Design Store.
Writer: Jason Hughes
La Perla heads East
March 29
La Perla has opened a striking new glass flagship boutique in Aoyama, Tokyo, designed by Italian architectural studio, Baciocchi Associati.
The store is based around an art gallery concept, with the architectural composition of the interior working with the products on display so they feel like works of art in themselves.
The 380 sq m space is set over three floors and is home to both menswear and womenswear, as well as a private lounge and exclusive made-to-measure and Atelier collection pieces.
Writer: Alex Fraser
NikeLab x Riccardo Tisci
24 March
Sportscore has become a familiar fashion trend on the runway, but only now is the tendency reversing, with NikeLab's first collection with creative director Riccardo Tisci.
Due to land in July, the collection aims to 'disrupt the transitional notion of training footwear and apparel'. Combining Tischi's bold and refined aesthetics with Nike's performance technologies (like Dri-FIT and Flykit), the modern silhouettes pare said to provide new performance solutions. Two capsule collections will cater to different personalities: the audacious kaleidoscope print features a fearless blend of flowers, stars and skulls while a monochrome palette provides a more sober option.
While the proposition may sound like a simple one, it was not without its challenges as Tisci explains: 'It was a difficult process because to make something that is very dynamic, to do sport and to do activity, and make it strongly recognisable — a fashion statement — is not easy. But we achieved something that's amazing. There's a lot of sensuality.'
Writer: Sam Rogers
Springing into action
23 March
Spring's official arrival brought with it the reopening of Covent Garden's revamped COS store.
The Long Acre locale has been extended to include a 149 sq m menswear section across two floors – with it's own independent street access – and to make shopping a more spacious experience by way of larger fitting rooms and generous ambling space. Designer elements – like Michael Anastassiades lights, Kasthall rugs and Carl Hansen furniture – complement the natural oak flooring and raw steel rails system with ease.
Matching the fresh new layout is the spring summer 2016 collection uses cotton, silk and denim to create organic shapes that feel as natural as they look.
Writer: Sam Rogers
Sunny disposition
22 March
Italian menswear brand Brioni has launched a new eyewear collection in collaboration with Kering Eyewear. Made employing eco-friendly materials, the handmade frames capture the luxury and urban aesthetic of the brand.
Four different styles make up the collection, including a retro-inspired Aviator and timeless Phantos frame, and are available in four colour ways: shiny black, havana, horn grey and rust.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Ellery's new extras
21 March
Australian designer Kym Ellery's latest A/W 2016 collection may have been inspired by the liberation of women from the strict codes of 19th century dress, but her new shoe line, debuted in Paris, is nothing but modern. Her criss-crossed peep-toe leather and shaggy rabbit fur sandals are finished with an architectural, sliced wooden heel. Off the runway, Ellery's trademark flares have also gotten a new lease on life, reworked as a Japanese denim line that's made in Turkey and Italy, and finished with gold plated Swiss hardware.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Bright young thing
18 March
Sydney designer Dion Lee has created a sculptural 'dress' illuminated by over 5000 Swarovski crystals in celebration of The National Gallery of Victoria’s ‘200 Years of Australian Fashion’ exhibition.
'The piece is an extension of the concepts explored in our autumn 2016 collection, experimenting with backlighting, using perforations and suspended crystal embellishments to play with perspective,' says Lee who just showed during NYFW. 'I really wanted to create a piece that extended beyond the form of a garment, rotating from above and using LED lighting to create a projected light within the space, filtering through the suspended crystals.' The installation falls from a mannequin suspended five metres in the air and was inspired by the graphic light work of German artist and sculptor Otto Piene.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Chucs' new boutique and café
17 March
Luxury lifestyle brand Chucs, renowned for its 1950s Riviera styling, is now catering to the palete as well as the garb of the jet-setting modern man with its second resort-wear boutique cum Italian restaurant on West London's Westbourne Grove. The chic establishment is open breakfast, lunch and dinner, with the morning's pastry counter seamlessly evolving into a martini bar by late afternoon. A perfect pairing all round.
Wrtier: Katrina Israel
Yohji's new frames
16 March
Japanese master of design Yohji Yamamoto has unveiled his second sunglasses collection for spring/summer 2016, inspired by the label's instantly recognisable handwritten logo.
The entire collection is an exploration of Yamamoto’s now signature round eye shape, while the metal frames follow the linear forms created by the continuous motion of a pencil on paper. All of the sunglasses merge traditional with futuristic elements in their construction and come with uniquely developed gold acetate lenses as well as handcrafted metal work. On the hints of gold throughout the range, Yamomoto says, 'If I continue with only black, people get tired. Gold is to wake up'.
Writer: Jason Hughes
DKNY takes NYC
15 March
This week marks the opening of DKNY's redesigned store in Soho, New York. Architect Andreas Bozarth Fornell of Koncept Stockholm worked together with Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, creative directors of DKNY, to create a concept that reflects New York City as well as the evolution of DKNY as a brand.
The building used to house the famous Mary Boone and Leo Castelli Galleries. As a nod to its history, the design of the store channels an artist's space, focusing on discovery and change. Throughout the year, DKNY will collaborate with several visual artists to explore the iconic elements of New York as a city.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Lagos in London
14 March
London-based jewellery brand Chalk has collaborated with luxury silk scarf label Sarah & Sorrentino on their latest collection, ‘Lagos’ – a selection of geometrically crafted pieces that shimmer with hints of mirrored gold, bright orange and blue.
The brainchild of architects Malaika Carr and Hazel Thompson, the Chalk aesthetic is informed by graphic shapes and created using laser cutting techniques first honed while making models of buildings at university.
The abstract elements and vibrancy of Sarah & Sorrentino’s ‘Lagos’ scarf and the angular patterns that adorn it are the inspiration behind the collection. Both brands' shared affinity for vivacious colours and interesting forms and patterns makes the ‘Lagos’ collection a natural development for Chalk.
Writer: Alex Fraser
COS x Sou Fujimoto Salone preview
11 March
Off the back of Sou Fujimoto's S/S 2016 Akris collaboration with creative director Albert Kriemler, which resulted in a 2016 Wallpaper* Design Award, the architect is embarking on another fashion pairing – this time with COS, for next month's Salone del Mobile.
Take an architectural tour of Tokyo with Fujimoto with the above video, as he introduces the concept for his 2016 Salone installation that interweaves sound, movement and illumination within a 'Forest of Light'.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Valentino’s reveals new London flagship
10 March
Valentino has opened its latest flagship boutique on London’s Old Bond Street, marking a significant development in the brand’s worldwide retail expansion.
The store, which is part of an ongoing collaboration between creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, together with respected British architect David Chipperfield, combines elements both new and old, exuding a grand Palazzo atmosphere.
The boutique steers away from a more traditional retail environment, instead opting for a more residential format, structurally designed to complement the designer wares on offer with subtly luxe materials such as grey Venetian terrazzo.
The 409 sq m Mayfair store will be home to a range of womenswear products including ready-to-wear, fragrances and accessories.
Writer: Alex Fraser
Orlebar Brown and Gieves & Hawkes go exploring
9 March
Orlebar Brown and Gieves & Hawkes have joined forces on a capsule collection of ready-to-wear separates that celebrate travel and exploration.
Looking to the pre-eminent Scottish explorer David Livingstone for inspiration, Orlebar Brown have reimagined his meticulous hand-drawn maps as prints over a range of utilitarian items designed by the longstanding Savile Row tailors.
Pieces include a pith helmet, safari jacket, multi-pocket utility vest and cargo trousers, along with t-shirts and swimming shorts.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Marni in bloom
8 March
Marni has brought a little bit of Italy to Japan, opening the first Marni Flower Café in Osaka's Umeda Hankyu Department Store.
The space itself channels the lively ambiance and iconic prints associated with the brand through an array of brightly coloured furniture, unusual shapes and materials.
Flowers, cakes and focaccia breads are among some of the delights on offer at the café, which is heavily emblazoned with the signature Marni house logo – an explicit reminder to the customer of its iconic roots.
Many of the products on sale have been created exclusively for the store, which will undergo a transformation every four months with the arrival of a new theme.
Writer: Alex Fraser
Dover Street Market Ginza unveils Alessandro Michele's Gucci Garden
7 March
The renowned Elephant Room at Dover Street Market Ginza has been transformed once again by Alessandro Michele’s flora and fauna embellished vision, Gucci filling the room with giant butterflies, ladybird and flower motifs.
To celebrate the brand’s S/S 2016 womenswear collection, Gucci – who first made their mark on the space last October, covering it in a GG Blooms floral print – have created a stunning installation in the space surrounding the much loved elephant figure.
Alongside the brightly coloured fabrics and fantastical accessories hung from fabric birds is Michele’s ‘Human Eye’ symbol – emblazoned on the elephant itself, as well as on the tailor’s dummies.
Writer: Alex Fraser
Nouveau bateau
4 February
Last year's Hyères International Festival of Fashion winner Annelie Schubert has collaborated with Petit Bateau on a chic capsule collection that subverts the quintessentially French brand's classic striped bateau top.
The 28-year-old Franco-German designer trained with Haider Ackermann after studying art and design in Berlin, and was awarded the Hyères by Karl Lagerfeld, who headlined the 2015 event's 30th anniversary.
The four-piece collection goes on sale 27 April.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Valentino pops up at Harrods
3 February
This week, Valentino’s S/S 2016 collection – based around a celebration of Africa’s cultural diversity and featuring traditional beaded ornamentation, woven textures and feathered necklines – was the focus of a series of pop-ups at Harrods.
The first takes place on the department store's ground floor, and features both Valentino accessories and a craftsman displaying the hand painting techniques that define the collection. From the escalators to the first floor, customers can catch a glimpse of the brand's runway for the S/S 2016 collection on the balconies. The first and fifth floors have been transformed into pop-up art gallery spaces, temporarily home to the ready-to-wear and shoe collections.
Writer: Nathalie König
Maison Kitsuné opens third store in Daikanyama, Tokyo
2 March
Three years after opening its first boutique and cafe in the district of Aoyama, Maison Kitsuné’s new Tokyo outpost in Daikanyama carries both women's and men’s collections in a purpose built space that evokes a traditional yet modern Japanese house.
The boutique is built using a wooden post and beam construction and plays tribute to Tokyo’s iconic 1960s Hotel Okura – a symbol of Japanese modernist design. A secret bamboo forest in the back of the boutique offers a calm retreat.
To celebrate the opening, Maison Kitsuné has launched a capsule collection emblazoned with exclusive patterns and prints inspired by Hotel Okura’s emblematic elements.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Iris Apfel in Paris
1 March
To mark the beginning of Paris Fashion Week, Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche has invited soi-disant ‘geriatric starlet’, Iris Apfel, to style the perfect day in Paris.
Ten Parisian locations inspired Apfel to create looks drawn from her personal collection – ‘Iris at the Opera’, ‘the Flea Market’, and ‘in Bon Marché’ among them. The style department created a range of signature accessories under Ms Apfel's direction, while Éric Giriat's original illustrations are exhibited on the second floor.
Writer: Jean Grogan
Wooyoungmi x Mathias Kiss
29 February
Mathias Kiss has become the eighth artist to join South Korean brand Wooyoungmi for their S/S 2016 artist collaboration project, ‘Out of Time’. Long admired by creative director Madam Woo and her daughter Katie Chung for his unique vision and use of gold leaf, the two felt that the ambiguous style of Kiss’ work, not associated with a particular period or type of art, complemented the ‘present future’ concept of the collection.
The installation, which will be on display in the brand's Paris store for the next month, re-imagines traditional French savoir-faire in a contemporary context, transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary – and communicating the shared sense of timelessness that inspires both the artist and the brand.
The art piece – a gold encased desk covered with the objects of an unknown owner – creates the illusion of a frozen moment that can not be attributed to any specific period in time: past, present or future.
Writer: Alex Fraser
Couture on tour
26 February
Karl Lagerfeld's S/S 2016 Haute Couture Chanel presentation – more specifically, the collection's key eco-friendly wooden beaded designs – left the confines of his tranquil wooden block house (itself more far-flung Aman resort than a mere private residence) for a whistle stop tour of London this week.
If you take a closer look, you'll even see pencil shavings miraculously sewn one atop the other in look 41 (pictured left). Mind-bending stuff.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Paul Smith hits the road
25 February
World renowned car giant Land Rover has teamed up with one of Britain's most beloved designers, Sir Paul Smith, to create a new version of the Defender.
The bespoke creation has an exterior painted in 27 colours, based solely on references from the designer himself. In addition, the surprises keep coming via charming details such as a hand-painted bee on the roof and a Paul Smith fascia replacing the classic Defender clock – all representative of both the designer's persona and the car's long history.
Writer: Melinda Akerbrant
Great taste in Miusic
24 February
Miu Miu's newly launched Miu Miusic app allows its users to create their own videos by selecting from 10 exclusive tracks and eye-popping graphics, which can then be remixed into a bespoke audio-visual treat.
DJ Frédéric Sanchez – who has worked with the brand’s team for many years – took inspiration from the mood of their fashion shows to create the app's tracks, affording the user a full Miu Miu experience.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Dunhill launches digital home
23 February
Today sees the launch of Dunhill’s first foray into e-commerce, accompanied by an online editorial platform, The Club.
The website not only allows customers to shop but brings to life the iconic tailoring brand's rich history – allowing users to explore Alfred Dunhill’s legacy, design and crafted products through exclusive articles and video content.
At a click, customers can discover the bespoke leather workshop located in the heart of London’s East End; watch a short film on the Dunhill sponsored classic car race, Rally Nippon, in Japan; or read a feature on the venerable legacy of the blazer.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Met preview
22 February
Over breakfast during New York Fashion Week, the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute unveiled a preview of its next exhibition, 'Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology'. The show, which opens on 5 May, will investigate the relationship between hand- and machine-made clothing, highlighting traditional techniques like embroidery and lacework alongside emerging technologies such as 3D printing and laser cutting.
The exhibition is to be designed by OMA, the architecture firm with an extensive portfolio of fashion collaborations and a penchant for exploring the possibilities of technology.
Writer: John Gendall
Eddie Borgo's second sac collection
19 February
Accompanying Eddie Borgo's latest 'Allure' jewellery line (which returns to the designer's more graphic, geometric signature) the New Yorker's second bag collection for S/S 2016 has also embraced a more molten semblance – and in the case of the 'Vic Minaudière' clutch, a dual purpose.
By creating a leather canteen case to hold the architectural clutch, the wearer can go hands-free at will. Alternatively, the 'Vic Minaudière' can be adapted for day use with a cross-the-body leather strap.
Writer: Katrina Israel
All-star footwear
18 February
Converse’s much beloved Jack Purcell style has been given a makeover courtesy of London-based jewellery designer Andrew Bunney. The line, which will be available from April, channels the attention to detail and craftsmanship synonymous with the Bunney brand, with each shoe featuring premium textile uppers from British company, Linton Tweeds.
The new additions are branded with Bunney's signature rabbit logo and will be available in classic lace-up and slip-on styles.
Continuing the ethos of the Bunney brand, the collaboration casts the familiar shoe, ‘in a new light with precious materials, becoming starkly new yet, at the same time, with the warmth of the familiar’.
Writer: Alex Fraser
Ten years of 3.1 Phillip Lim
17 February
To celebrate its tenth anniversary, 3.1 Phillip Lim has released a short documentary film, providing an intimate insight into the creative process behind the brand’s recent Spring 2016 runway show. The film offers exclusive backstage footage, focusing on the incredible sculptural installation artist and environmentalist Maya Lin created for the event.
The show was based around the concept of taking a moment to ‘stop and smell the flowers’ – a simple philosophy befitting of the event’s landmark status, co-founders Phillip Lim and Wen Zhou reminding themselves to pause and take it all in. Click above to watch the film
Writer: Alex Fraser
Inside Gentle Monster’s stunning new store
16 February
Incorporating interactive displays with beautifully geometric traditional materials such as wood, metal and mirror, Gentle Monster’s first New York flagship store is a true showcase of the talent that earned architect Rafael de Cárdenas this year’s Maison et Objet Americas' 'Designer of the Year' title.
The ‘monster home’ is a physical manifestation of the Seoul-based label's self-described ‘high end experimentation’ philosophy; citing de Cárdenas’ ‘comprehension of art that fits with the brand and the energy of New York’ as the basis for their collaboration.
The store ethos revolves around the concept of a harmonious coexistence of fashion and art – the space also houses a gallery for collaborations with local artists.
Writer: Alex Fraser
Hostem's new home
15 February
The cult store Hostem has decamped for the season; though its new, stark white home – replete with with vaulted glass ceiling – is just a stone’s throw away from the its old Redchurch Street hub.
‘The green oak framework in the first gallery is made without a single nail, all carved, engraved and installed on site,’ explains artistic director Christie Fels of the new space's interior.
Inspired by artist Oscar Tuazon’s vernacular architecture installation My Mistake, it’s just one of the structures handmade by Hostem’s in-house carpenters. Original Pierre Jeanneret furniture as well as art by Graham Collins, Kika Karadi and Lucian Smith, all from Hostem founder James Brown's private collection, punctuate the space.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Lucky charms
12 February
Founded in 2012 by Dimitra Kolotoura and Mareva Grabowski, Hellenic fashion label Zeus + Dione is fuelled by the pair’s concern with the dramatic decline of industry and skilled craftsmanship facing Greece as a result of the economic crisis.
The brand collaborates with a network of Greek artisans, designers, workshops and manufacturers to reinterpret its heritage in a completely contemporary way.
Zeus + Dione has just launched the 'Lucky Charm' collection – a small selection of jewellery inspired by the Greek goddess of love, Aphrodite – with all of the pieces representing different aspects of her character: love, beauty and pleasure.
Writer: Alex Fraser
Mansur Gavriel puts its first foot forward
11 February
There's no denying the allure of the mule's recent redux and as we head into spring, cult New York bag brand Mansur Gavriel has thrown their hat in the ring.
Debuting on Net-A-Porter today, Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel have launched with four slip-on sandal styles available in various heel heights and six colour ways, made from supple suede or tanned vegetable leather.
'The addition of shoes to the line was a natural evolution from our core handbag collection,' explains Mansur of the gem-hued offering, 'We look at both product lines as beautiful sculptural objects with clean details and golden proportions.' Going by the sell-out success of their bags, catch them if you can.
Prices start from £315 at Net-A-Porter
Writer: Katrina Israel
Light and shade
10 February
Award-winning London designer Craig Green has teamed up with sportswear brand Björn Borg on a 20-piece capsule collection inspired by the human fascination with light and shadow.
Highlights include padded trousers, performance running leggings and a lightweight raincoat in technical fabric. The collection comprises a canny pairing of Green’s conceptual approach to design with the function and performance of the brand's heritage.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Ten years of Margaret Howell and StudioSmall (and Eric Gill)
9 February
In celebration of the 10-year collaboration between designer Margaret Howell and StudioSmall, the latter is launching a limited edition publication titled Ten Years of Margaret Howell and Eric Gill (the title reflects the studio's choice of the Gill family of typefaces as an integral part of the label's identity).
The book features StudioSmall's own selection of Margaret Howell show invites from the last decade as well as an essay written by Eye magazine editor John Walters.
The chosen designs showcase how the identity of Margaret Howell as a brand has evolved while staying true to the modernist design philosophy of beautiful products made simply and properly.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Form with function
8 February
Not only was Akris’ S/S 2016 set and collection directly inspired by creative director Albert Kriemler’s collaboration with architect Sou Fujimoto, so too were these sculptural rings.
Modeled after the architect’s Naoshima Pavilion in Japan, the season’s design pairing also won the duo our 2016 Design Award for Best Alliance.
The silver metal plated or fiberglass rings will arrive in Akris’ stores in March.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Filling station
5 February
Motivated by company founder, designer and architect Guillaume Philibert’s desire to ‘produce premium quality for an honest price’, Amsterdam-based footwear brand Filling Pieces aims to bridge the gap between luxury and streetwear fashion.
Innovation is the essence of the label. Which is why it comes as no surprise that the S/S 2016 collection is inspired by the concept of metamorphosis – a profound change in form – and sees the brand evolve from their signature Italian vulcanised soles with three new offerings: the Space, Ghost and Top Stripe Soles.
All shoes are hand made in Portugal; prices start at around £145.
Writer: Alex Fraser
Simone Rocha’s S/S 2016 Kyoto installation
4 February
To mark the arrival of the the brand's S/S 2016 Kyoto collection, Simone Rocha has once again teamed up with set designer Janina Pedan, this time for a new installation at Rocha's Mount Street store.
The display is a sculptural reinterpretation of Jacob Lillis' ‘Flowers and Cars’ campaign images featured in the Book of Simone Rocha, published last year. The installation reflects the juxtaposition of natural and man-made that has been recurrent across all of the designer’s collections.
An accompanying film by Joe Ridout will also be screening in-store during fashion week.
Writer: Alex Fraser
Bertoni 1949 pops-up at Selfridges
3 February
Italian luggage company Bertoni 1949 comes to Selfridges this month, taking over a corner dedicated to its women’s collection.
The pop-up concession embraces the brand's love of art, graphics and craftsmanship in a selection of timeless handcrafted styles, ranging from the iconic Mini Squared Bertoncina – available in a variety of luxurious skins and colours – to the classic big American travel trunk.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Final flourish
2 February
Launching on 18 March, the final collection by Uniqlo and Lemaire aims to build on the foundation of the brands' previous collaborations – comprising everyday mens and womenswear, and incorporating clean silhouettes, functionality and design codes in line with the ethos of both.
Writer: Zoë Sinclair
John Lobb’s new visual identity by APFEL
1 February
‘We wanted to create an identity for John Lobb which felt contemporary yet still respectful of the brand’s history as a British bootmaker of the highest regard since the mid nineteenth century,’ explains Emma Thomas, A Practice for Everyday Life founder, of the rebrand that included a new logo, typography and colour scheme for the heritage label. ‘The identity also reflects the direction that artistic director Paula Gerbase has taken with the collections: precise, refined, sensitive to materials and to function, and respectful of this heritage,’ she adds. ‘It has been a fascinating process exploring John Lobb’s history and archive to come up with new designs to capture that spirit in a contemporary, forward-looking way.’
Writer: Katrina Israel
Haute cuisine
29 January
Christian Dior loved the Plaza Athénée – one of Paris’ great hôtels particuliers – at 30 Avenue Montaigne, just a few easy steps from his atelier. So much so, he named dresses and collections, 'Plaza', in homage. During couture week, the super-chic hotel returned the compliment, with chef Philippe Marc devising daily Dior menus inspired by the designer’s favourite dishes at its Le Relais Plaza restaurant. Our gourmand treat du jour? Russian style boiled eggs.
Writer: Caragh McKay
Plein time
28 January
Philipp Plein has finally released its long-awaited watch collection #PLEINTIME, featuring the exuberant Spitfire, Destroyer I and Destroyer II timepieces, catering to its adrenaline seeking, modern man. The new models come in a striking camouflage print along with stark white and matt black, and all are imbued with the robust touch that personifies the brand. This latest launch comes ahead of the brand's new London flagship store, slated to open later this year.
Writer: Melinda Akerbrant
Spring pumps
27 January
Launched in A/W 2014, Rag & Bone’s Standard Issue collection encapsulates a core offering of men’s essentials, including denim, t-shirts and accessories.
For Spring 2016, footwear joins the ranks – a superlative collection of gender-neutral of lace-up and hi-top plimsolls perfect for pounding the New York streets.
Writer: Zoë Sinclair
Galvin Brothers x Wayside Flower
26 January
The handcrafted furniture makers Galvin Brothers have teamed up with English clothing manufacturer Wayside Flower on a limited edition collection of utility wear pieces. Made in the costal town of Bridlington, the rugged collection consists of a traditional joiner's apron, a woodturner’s smock and draftman’s roll made in Japanese selvedge denim.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Back to basics
25 January
As fine jewellery week kicks off in Paris during today's haute couture shows, we immediately thought of the latest collection by the fine jewellery designer Ana Khouri, titled – simply – 'Simplicity'.
'My idea for this new collection was going back to basics,' says the Brazilian designer. 'Focussing on what is essential.' Standouts included molten gold hair clips and earrings that wrap the lobe in diamonds and precious stones. The collection is in store now; explore 'Simplicity' by watching above.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Furry phones
22 January
What's not to love about Fendi's new iPhone friends? The Roman brand's fluffy bag bugs have leapt onto the house's new leather and mink iPhone 6 and iPhone 6 Plus covers for pre-autumn. The covers are priced at around £280.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Public enterprise
21 January
The inaugural ‘JW Anderson Workshops’ has opened its doors on Shoreditch High Street, in a space adjacent to the Ace Hotel.
Beyond his six yearly fashion collections, Anderson’s interests and knowledge are wide-ranging – encompassing art, architecture, photography and ceramics. And what better way to showcase all this than through a physical space?
Workshops – an idea conceived to channel the Bloomsbury Group’s early 20th century Omega Workshops enterprise – will play host to installations, exhibitions and events, as well as featuring Anderson-designed products exclusive to the Shoreditch store. Kicking off with a collaboration with Luis Venegas – the Spanish editor of Fanzine137, EY! Magateen and Candy – Workshops will showcase a curated exhibition and sale of his publications; Anderson also will work with Venegas to produce merchandise to sell alongside his popular magazines.
Writer: Celeste Chipperfield
Mood movements
20 January
There’s a brilliantly mischievous streak in the way Hublot subverts artisanal fine watchmaking techniques with an offbeat, pop feel and a fine jewellery touch. The moodboards for its current 'Big Bang Broderie Sugar Skull' watch reveal its way of thinking: the careful intricacy of classic feminine lace techniques is upturned in a folksy Day of the Dead skew.
The folk-art hand-stitching of Hublot’s native Switzerland is reinterpreted by Swiss embroidery specialist Bischoff, who take a defiantly technical, as opposed to artisanal, approach to thread art. The cacophony of turquoise, fuchsia, yellow, orange, violet and metallic Lurex threads fused with red spinel accents brings centuries-old techniques kicking and screaming to life.
Writer: Caragh McKay
'Saint Laurent at The Palladium'
19 January
Hedi Slimane is taking his S/S 2016 menswear show on the road and across the pond. Taking place on 10 February, 'Saint Laurent at The Palladium' is being held at the Hollywood Palladium – a Sunset Boulevard venue that has hosted Sinatra, The Rolling Stones and Prince, among many others, and a fitting setting for the collection.
Slimane is staging the show in tribute to the flourishing local music scene – a creative hotbed the designer has long championed – and is his second event in the city, following the exhibition 'California Song', held at the LA Museum of Contemporary Art in November 2011.
Writer: Zoë Sinclair
Soft landing
18 January
Three years ago, 18-year-old London designer Archie Hewlett founded his own footwear brand Duke & Dexter, based on the the classic gentleman's slipper. Now 21, Hewlett sells his slip-ons in myriad patterns, hues and textures to over 100 countries – and they've even walked the 2015 Academy Awards red carpet, courtesy of our Design Awards judge Eddie Redmayne.
His latest success story is a pop-up at Liberty London, for which Hewlett has chosen his 'Ultimate 10' men's collection, specifically curated to reflect the store's traditional British heritage.
Writer: Katrina Israel
To the slopes: Julien David x Quiksilver
15 January
Quiksilver has once again teamed up with Paris-born, Tokyo-based designer Julien David for the slopes. Working with Repreve, a leader in sustainable fabrics, the collection focuses on comfort and functionality as well as great looks.
Featuring op-art graphics, the capsule offers a spin on 1980s Quiksilver iconography from the 'Surfers of Fortune' and 'War Paint' collections. The images, once modified and computerised, have been projected onto surf trunks, snow jackets and wetsuits in prominent iridescent colours.
Writer: Celeste Chipperfield
Sound off
14 January
What do you get when you combine the exploits of fashion's most in-demand sound designer with his Muppet mini-me? The best fashion film we've seen in a long while.
Today Mercedes-Benz launches Episode 4 of its 'Fashion Creatives' series starring mix master Michel Gaubert and his side-kick 'assistant' Petit Michel – brought to life by Jim Henson Company puppeteer Victor Yerrid. Written and directed by Los Angeles-based director Toben Seymour, the film is a day in the life of man and puppet. It's as charming as it is humorous, as Petit Michel encroaches on his mentor's signature look and fashion fame.
'He broke into my laptop and remixed all the remixes of my remixes…,' Gaubert laments in one scene. In this instance imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, and Petit Michel lands himself a front row seat at this month's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, along with assured internet stardom.
Writer: Katrina Israel
Fashion on file
13 January
Parisian fashion label Vetements has teamed up with IDEA Books to document the house’s S/S 2016 collection. The 300-page publication – in a print run of 500 – is the most comprehensive document of a single fashion collection ever published.
Though relatively new to the scene, Vetements – launched by Demna Gvasalia, the recently appointed creative director of Balenciaga – is quickly becoming a fashion favourite. Photographed by Pierre-Ange Carlotti in the days before, during and after the Spring 2016 show, the images give us a behind-the-scenes insight into the world of the label; from the mundanity of show rehearsals to the chaos of office life. The book will be launched in Paris during Men’s Fashion Week at the Comme des Garçons Trading Museum and available thereafter at Dover Street Market London, New York and Ginza, Tokyo, as well as via the publisher.
Writer: Celeste Chipperfield
Moto Milano
12 January
Caruso has once again turned its attention to the film industry, following the release of their first short feature last summer.
Giancarlo Giannini returns as the protagonist of The Good Italian II: The Prince Goes to Milan, the latest chapter in the Parma-based menswear label’s charming series. Travelling to Milan in an elegant Lancia Aurelia Spider B24 – a symbol of Italian design and industry in the world – Giannani arrives at the historic Four Seasons Hotel and orchestrates the ideal dinner date. From food to attire, the film leads us through the most desirable aspects of Italy – the perfect suit is, of course, requisite.
Writer: Celeste Chipperfield
David Bowie: style icon
11 January
To coincide with the release of David Bowie's Blackstar – and arriving with the tragic news of the chameleonic pop icon's untimely death today – Paul Smith has teamed up with designer Jonathan Barnbrook to create a limited edition t-shirt bearing the the album's cover art.
Available online in black and white options, the shirt is a defacto tribute to one of the last half century's most enduring, inimitable polymaths.
Writer: Tom Howells
Flight of fancy
8 January
Until 21 February, Paris' Grand Palais plays host to Louis Vuitton's latest sensory exhibition ‘Volez, Vogues, Voyages’, a retrospective that celebrates the house's savour-faire heritage, dating back to 1854.
Curated by Olivier Saillard (director of Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris), and realised by art director Robert Carsen, the pair worked closely with fifth generation family member Patrick Louis Vuitton on the showcase – which is spread over nine rooms (or chapters) – of the brand's lineage; from the house's early traveller trunks to its latest designs by current creative director Nicolas Ghesquière.
Writer: Katrina Israel; Photography: Grégoire Vielle
Tight spot
6 January
Founded by Edzard van der Wyck, luxury hosiery label Heist Studios is the first to produce seamless tights using a special yarn, making them invisible under clothes.
Available in two different denier counts and low or high waistbands, the tights are designed in an old Spitfire factory in London and made in a small town in Italy called Castel Goffredo (known as the historical home of tights).
The tights are available online through the Heist Studios webstore.
Writer: Nathalie König
Bunney goes biking
7 January
Contemporary jewellery and accessories label Bunney has team up with Vespa to create a dazzling version of the iconic PX 150 scooter.
The scooter appears in the house colour of 'Bunney grey' with back racks, footplates and lights handcrafted in sterling silver at the label's London workshop. A seal of approval comes with an enlarged hallmark from the Assay Office, prominently stamped on the front of scooter.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Cage creatures
5 January
Dover Street Market New York embraces the New Year with a bag installation by metal artisans Anndra Neen, designed by AMOIA Studio. The New York based brothers, Samuel and Dominic Amoia, hand plastered each form, encrusting them with terrazzo, clustered rock and semi precious stones. Each piece took five days to create – we hope they still found time for turkey.
Writer: Zoe Sinclair; Photography courtesy Dover Street Market New York
Transforming tradition
4 January
The Finnish-born, Paris-based shoemaker Achilles Ion Gabriel is a master of reinterpretation. The Derby, Chelsea and work boot are all transformed in his latest offering of offbeat footwear. Incorporating thick soles, contrasting toecaps and a juxtaposition of block colours through the brand’s signature strap detailing, Achilles’ work plays with androgyny, convention and the notion of a classic shoe.
Achilles Ion Gabriel can be found online at LN-CC or in store at Dover Street Market.
Writer: Edward Siddons
Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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