Festive florals
20 December
Still-life artist Donald Sultan has collaborated with swimwear brand Vilebrequin on limited-edition print for the brand's signature swimming shorts. Sultan, a long-time friend of the label, has designed a red and white lantern flower print in his famous abstracted style. The red floral blocks of colour are detailed with black stigmas at the centre of each flower, making it a wonderfully appropriate palette for the festive season. They make for a sublime stocking filler for those lucky enough for some winter sun.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Surf’s up
19 December
More and more information is being uncovered about the devastating impact of human waste on our seas and oceans. Parley for the Oceans works tirelessly to build a network of creatives who can spread the word about the devastating impact of plastics on fragile maritime ecosystems. Now, it has teamed up with online auction platform Paddle 8, in its sale of The Amazing Earth by Ed Ruscha- a surfboard emblazoned with striped washes of colour and typography. All proceeds from the auction go towards the Ocean Defense Fund, and with the auction ending tomorrow, it’s time to get into the swim of things.
Writer: Laura Hawkims
Fine print
18 December
We’re putting in a good word for Valentino’s latest menswear capsule collection. The typography-focused offering features the words ‘Always and Anywhen’ emblazoned across t-shirts, biker boots, down jackets and knitwear. The pieces make for perfect wardrobe staples for graphic design aficionados, and just like the phrases used across the collection, can be worn always and anywhen. How’s that for an A+?
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Driving seat
15 December
In April this year, luxury group, For The One, introduced LONB - an accessories label inspired by the extravagant and sophisticated 1960s traveller. Now, a new collection for men and women comes rooted in exotic hides, like calfskin, crocodile and suede, which work seamlessly with the demands of dynamic and busy lifestyles. With a fascination for the finest details, creators Reinhard Mieck and Melissa Morris leave no detail unconsidered. The clasps and zips in the collection mimic the ‘cluck’ of a convertible roof folding or the ‘wumpth’ of a 911 Porche door closing. Our favourite design includes ‘The Runaway II’, a clutch which keeps hold of essential travel necessities using individual pouches and pockets - all upholstered in caviar grey ostrich leather. Or, keep your jewels safe en-route with the 'Jewellery Pouch' seen above. Buckle up.
Writer: Katie Meston
Raw materials
14 December
We’re going nuts over G-Star Raw’s latest Earth Colours collection- a line of jeans naturally dyed with tones derived from olives, rosemary, plants and nutshells. The innovative brand have teamed up with ethical textile leaders Archroma, who manufacture dyes made from 70 to 100% raw materials. How’s that for au naturel?
Writer: Jason Hughes
Snug fit
13 December
Birkenstock has found a way to bring fireside warmth to feet while staying fashion forward. For the winter season, its 'Arizona' sandal comes with double straps underpinned by a snug layer of soft cowhide. Whether you're holiday bound or hibernating at home, it's the best way to keep your feet toasty yet tasteful this season.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
As originally featured in the December 2017 issue of Wallpaper* (W*225)
Hammer time
12 December
Three years ago, Bao Bao Issey Miyake launched its 'Distortion' range, which comprised clutch bags ornamented with tessellating triangular appliqué. In a bid to update the line, the brand has embarked on a space odyssey. The 'Distortion 2' is a clutch-cum-objet d'art, inspired my meteorites and formed from modular mirrored triangles, finished with tsuchime, a Japanese hand-hammering technique that produces a dimpled effect.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
As originally featured in the December 2017 issue of Wallpaper* (W*225)
Take the floor
11 December
The festive season calls for sublime suiting, which is why there’s no better time to step into Richard James’ newly revamped boutique on Clifford Street in London. The tailor has expanded its Mayfair space, and its three floors, their design conceived by long term collaborator Philip Oakley, feature an eye catching neon artwork by Danny Moony, mid-century furniture pieces reupholstered with suiting fabrics and futuristic mirrored changing rooms. Up on the second floor, the boutique even boasts a lounge and bar. A new suit and a sip of something sweet- what better way to get into the festive spirit?
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Flying high
10 December
There’s no better time to invest in a pair of 1937 Ray-Ban Aviators. Not only does this sunglasses silhouette celebrate its 80th anniversary this year, but the classic shape is also a sublime way to cover those tired eyes of the festive season. The pilot-centric shape boasts drop-shaped lenses, nose pads and temple tips in mother of pearl accents, and this limited edition frame will leave you flying high for years to come.
Photography: Aylin Bayhan. Writer: Laura Hawkins
Hit or knit
9 December
Here at Wallpaper* we’re big fans of timeless design. Imagine our jubilation, then, at Milan label Dondup’s latest ‘Iconic’ collection - a seasonless and genderless capsule of forever pieces. With winter drawing in, we’ll be snuggling up in this petrol blue oversized knit, a piece of essential kit for the festive season and beyond. The 20 piece ‘Iconic’ collection is available to purchase from Dondup’s Via della Spiga experimental space and online.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Loyal friends
8 December
December marks the fifth birthday of German leather specialists Tsatsas. To commemorate this special celebration, founders Esther Schulze-Tsatsas and Dimitrios Tsatsas have launched a project titled ‘Constant Companions’, which explores individual’s relationships with particular objects that become significant within their day-to-day lives. 'We often meet people who over a period of time have found a constant companion in a Tsatsas product’, the founders say. In light of this revelation, Tsatsas has asked a selection of international friends to share insight into how their products assimilate into their lives. Collated and documented in a publication, the project is also exhibited at the brand's Frankfurt-based studio until 22 December, where furniture and product designer Michael Anastassiades’ Xela bag - a trusty companion since 2013 - is seen photographed slouched on a stack of chairs at his London studio.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Closet confidential
7 December
Fashion director Christine Centenera and designer Josh Goot have launched Wardrobe, a luxury direct-to-consumer fashion concept. ‘We wanted to build a luxury label with a simplicity and honesty, that felt right for the times,’ says Goot. The concept is built around a ‘wardrobe’ of timeless, beautifully considered and curated separates that blend streetwear with tailoring – think a fine-gauge crew neck sweater, tailored trousers, a perfectly proportioned hoodie. In-keeping with their own personal style, many of the monochrome pieces have a unisex feel: ‘Our joint favourite is the coat,’ says Centenera. ‘I accidentally tried the men's coat sample in the first fitting in Naples and loved it so much we decided to make the women's block the same.’
The DTC model means pieces are offered without the retail mark-up, but it is an investment - $1500 will buy you four pieces, $3000 eight pieces. Intentionally positioned as the opposite of fast fashion and made in limited runs, the duo hope to combat ‘the relentless production and consumption cycle that is endemic to the fashion industry.’
Writer: Tilly Macalister-Smith
Animal instinct
6 December
In September, Paul Surridge debuted his first collection as creative director of Roberto Cavalli. The S/S 2018 offering viewed the glamorous animal print-loving Cavalli woman through a modern lens, and featured zebra stripe trench coats, crocodile skin trousers and a smattering of sultry dresses, paired with modern and practical pointed slippers. Now, with the launch of a 12 piece capsule collection, debuting at the brand’s Sloane Street boutique in London and online, Cavalli customers can earn their spring stripes early, and pick up a selection of key pieces from Surridge’s debut. No more running in heels.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Carte blanche
5 December
Maison Margiela’s democratic approach to staff dressing is exemplified by the requirements of all employees of its atelier to wear ‘blouse blanche’. These white lab coats, traditionally worn by couturiers, are the main inspiration behind the brand’s latest collaboration with Mackintosh. The result is a lab coat-centric coat silhouette, crafted using Mackintosh’s signature rubberised fabric, and featuring Margiela trademarks: white horn buttons, brushed steel eyelets and four signature stitches on its back. A wardrobe essential whether you’re amassing your S/S 2018 wardrobe, or aiming to sneak unseen into the avant garde Paris-based label’s atelier.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Make it rain
4 December
Continuing their collaboration for Spring 2018, Marni and Stutterheim’s new capsule collection is made up of 6 eye-catching raincoats. Paying tribute to the classic Marni overcoat, the Stutterheim raincoat silhouette has been updated with a cocoon shape. Coated in colourful graphic prints, the collaboration arrives just in time for those rainy December days.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Party pieces
3 December
We’ve always had eyes for sleek interpretations of party wear. Imagine our festive cheer then, on learning of Victoria Beckham’s latest Tuxedo collection – a capsule of eight party-inspired pieces which includes a sleek, cleanly tailored trouser suit. Of course, no holiday look comes complete without a little shimmer. We’ll be sporting our tuxedo with the Dorothy, a fifties-inspired heel dipped in glitter. The Tuxedo collection is available exclusively at Victoria Beckham, 36 Dover Street, London, and online.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Petal power
2 December
Minimally designed accessories have certainly enjoyed a prolonged moment in the sun. Proving that restrained does not mean boring is Linjer, a Florence-based accessory label that pays homage to the Norwegian heritage of its founders in its aesthetic. Built upon clean lines and fine raw materials, Linjer’s elegant array of vegetable-tanned leather goods and pared back watches for men and women flies the flag for elegant functionality, perfect for everyday life. For its latest creation, the Tulip bag, the label was inspired by the bloom, to create the undulating body of a handbag. Made from Italian leather and featuring splices of bright colour and natural linen, the bag is as spacious as it is impactful – an ideal combination all over the world.
Writer: Pei-Ru Keh
Birthday suit
1 December
Mongolia-born knitwear maestro Oyuna Tserendorj has celebrated her label’s fifteenth birthday with a plethora of creative festivities in conjunction with one of our most treasured Berlin boutiques Andreas Murkudis. Tserendorj, who founded the cashmere label in 2002 with her husband David Bernasconi, has created a celebratory capsule collection for the boutique, which encompasses a series of limited edition pieces that pay homage to Oyuna’s archive. This collection is presented alongside an installation at one of Murkurdis’ exhibition spaces, which features a series of photographs and projections by Joe Harper, celebrating the artisans of Tserendori’s home country and the detailed craftsmanship involved in creating Oyuna's designs.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Special forces
30 November
Superga’s vulcanized rubber plimsolls became standard issue for members of the Italian Army in the late 1970s. Andrea Rosso – founder of the restyled vintage military clothing line Myar – is well versed in the annals of army clothing, and remembers wearing his first pair of 2570s aged six. Rosso has just released a capsule of two styles made in collaboration with Superga inspired by MYAR’s S/S 2018 Re-Camouflage collection. Both the high and low-top are crafted from compact cotton canvas with a high-shine extended rubber sole, available in four camo colours.
Writer: Dal Chodha
Artistic license
29 November
The Lady Dior bag has had many reincarnations since its birth in 1995, and with its strong identity it still doesn’t cease to maintain a timeless charm. The bag was a favourite of the late Princess Diana, whose stylish image popped up on many a designer’s moodboard for S/S 2018. The idiosyncratic objet, which comes complete with metal charms and signature ‘cannage’ motif, has now been transformed by ten British and American artists in ‘Dior Lady Art #2’ the second iteration of its limited edition series. For his design, multi-media artist Jack Pierson has created black and white drawings, which swirl and spin across the body of the bag, resulting in a vortex of patterns and shapes. The arch of each handle is highlighted with electric orange zigzag shapes, which hark back to the American artist’s famed sculptural and photographic work with commercial signage and lettering.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
On your bike!
28 November
On 20 December, we bid adieu to the legendary Parisian concept store, Colette. Going out in style rather than sadness, the mother-daughter team behind the store, Colette Roussaux and Sarah Andelman, have organised a series of pop-ups to inhabit the first floor of the Rue Saint Honoré space. Following the likes of Chanel, Balenciaga and Sacai - the final and most extensive brand collaboration yet is with Saint Laurent. And the variety is wide and vast. Everything from a leopard-embossed Arkaic Concept skate deck and a vintage Polaroid camera, to lighters that read ‘Smoking Forever’, a reference to the eminent Le Smoking tuxedo designed by Yves Saint Laurent in 1966. But truly, you can't get more Parisian than the monochrome Saint Laurent Vespa. As Christmas is on the horizon, here’s the perfect gift inspiration – after all, nothing screams festivity like this accompanying Ruby for Saint Laurent glossy black and fully crystal-embellished motorcycle helmet.
Writer: Katie Meston
Spinning a yarn
27 November
Parisian brother-sister duo Grégory and Laëtitia Mizele are making crochet luxe with their namesake label Mizele. Their signature collection of bags take inspiration from their Tunisian heritage and textile craftsmanship. The chic double handled ‘Muzelle’ and ‘Muze’ bags in ‘Série 1’, come complete with a versatile shoulder strap, and take over twenty hours of construction. The intricately crafted bags are finished with fine leather accents and can be customised with monogrammed initials. They’ll make for a coveted Christmas gift come rain or shine.
Writer: Andrew Wasserstein
Hit the white
26 November
Scoring flying colours on Thursday was central London’s celebration of White Milano- a trade show and one of Italy’s largest fashion events, which celebrates renowned and burgeoning fashion brands as part of men’s and women’s fashion week each season. As part of the event, hosted by the Italian Trade Agency, a plethora of fashion brands, from London’s recent Woolmark Prize winners Cottweiler to whimsical Italian label Vivetta, created a series of white garments for an eye-catching installation. We’re particularly green with envy for Paula Cademartori’s white ‘Alex’ bag, a cleaner take on the designer’s kaleidoscopic aesthetic. Event produced by Karla Otto Special Projects
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Architectural endeavour
25 November
After two years in the making, London-based accessories designer Charlotte Olympia has unveiled her latest limited edition mini collection, created and crafted in collaboration with Zaha Hadid Design. The author of the popular ‘Kitty’ flats and the late architecture visionaire first met in 2015, and Olympia and Hadid’s team have since worked meticulously on an outcome that would reflect both signature aesthetics. Two pieces have come out from their creative dialog - a platform wedge shoe and a clutch bag, tied together by the use of Perspex fluid forms, rose gold metal accents, and sculptural spliced packaging. The limited edition is now available at Charlotte Olympia stores and online.
Writer: Ema Janackova
Alphabet pretty
24 November
British bag designer Sophie Hulme just got personal with the opening of a pop-up boutique to launch her brand's new monogram service. Situated in the iconic London shopping promenade, Burlington Arcade, the in-store only service allows shoppers to choose from three bespoke techniques to create a unique design personalised with their initials. Hulme has developed an artisanal alphabet made from stacked saddle leather to adorn ten handbag styles across eight colourways. The boutique also offers hand-painting by acclaimed sign writer, Mark MacDonald, in a lexicon of original fonts designed for the label by John Morgan’s renowned London graphic studio. Leather embossing in gold-foil or simply pressed blind, tops off the standout service.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Tickled pink
23 November
Dover Street Market was a first season supporter of Molly Goddard’s feminine tulle creations. Now, the British designer has given the store’s Haymarket location a playful takeover, co-designed by Molly’s mother and set designer Sarah Edwards. The otherworldly installation has been positioned amongst the vast cavities of the Grade II listed building, filling it from floor to ceiling with sculptures wrapped in bubblegum pink and papery recycled materials. These have been intermingled with Goddard’s frothy, floral print and check creations. ‘Industrial-type packaging is always a great source of inspiration for our sets and installations’, Edwards says, an aesthetic evident in the brand’s previous installation at The Comme des Garçons Trading Museum in Paris, one imagined using pink plastic wrapping. The fanciful installation uses scale to interact with the viewer and entice them into Molly’s whimsical world. ‘The use of height adds an element of fun,’ Edwards adds. Now all we want to do is dress up and play!
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
London calling
22 November
We’ve been part of Aeyde’s boot camp since the Berlin-based brand launched in 2015. Now, the label’s founders, Luisa Krogmann and Constantin Langholz-Baikousis, have lent their urban inclination to London, with a pop up store at Pippa Store in Notting Hill. In celebration of its chic temporary outpost, Aeyde have debuted the ‘London Edition’ a limited edition version of its square toed ‘Liam’ boot, available in a deep maroon port croc colour way. With only fifty styles available, we’ll be pounding the pavements to pick up a pair.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Wrap artist
21 November
Scottish brand Begg & Co have been swathing customers in scarves, wraps and stoles since 1866. Now, the label’s enveloping pieces have taken a more artistic lean, in collaboration with Michael Wall. The South London-based artist has bought the abstract, colourful sweeps he applies to large-scale canvases, with two limited edition blankets, available exclusively in 10 pieces each at London's Fenwick of Bond Street. We’ll be cloaking ourselves in this soft-pink style as those winter nights draw in.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Stitch craft
20 November
Woolrich’s collections celebrate the brand’s rich American outdoor heritage. Now the label has adopted a more urban inclination, collaborating with the New York designer and founder of Bags in Progress, Chiharu Hayashi, on a capsule collection crafted from textured plaids. Following previous collaborations such as the Woolrich x OVO blanket, this capsule collection is part of the Woolrich Wool Project, and includes reversible tote bags, a converted clutch bag and other winter necessities. This tote style is crafted with the finest archival wool from the brand’s renowned Woolen Mill. A reversible shape, with a detachable strap, it's a true wooly wonder.
Writer: Katie Meston
Like it or lump (and bump) it
17 November
In May, we took a behind the scenes look at the awe-inspiring exhibition ‘Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between’, held at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in New York. The expansive show featured pieces from the Japanese label's revolutionary S/S 1997 ‘Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body’ collection, where the idealised female body of the nineties was distorted by garments featuring padded protrusions and swellings. Imagine our delight then, that Artcurial’s latest three part sale ‘Fall Fashion Arts’, taking place on 20 November, features pieces from the label's renowned collection, as part of the French auction house's Japanese fashion section. The lumpy details in Lot 323 and 363 – a skirt and top in red Vichy and black stretch – subvert the idealised feminine notions of domestic garb and the concept of the little black dress. They make for high drama, whether in a museum exhibition space, or in your wardrobe.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Thick Skiim
16 November
French Sixties cinema classics such as La Piscine and Le Mepris formed the basis behind the debut collection of leather womenswear brand SKIIM. The label offers modern classics such as high-waist trousers, ruffled blouses and outerwear essentials, all made using ethically sourced leather and suede.
For autumn, we have our eye on the Karla, a robust patent leather trench coat that brings a seductive Helmut Newton polaroid to mind.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Snow go
15 November
Tommy Hilfiger takes to the slopes this winter in collaboration with ski brand, Rossignol. The capsule collection of men’s winter apparel includes padded ski jackets, streamline zip-through cardigans and ski pants, alongside technical equipment such as skis, boots and poles, including an ergonomic helmet with goggles. All items seamlessly blend the signature logos of both brands, sharing a graphic red, white and blue colour palette. It’s the ideal attire for hitting that black run.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Into the deep
14 November
For the first instalment of its female artist series, Australian brand Her Line has teamed up with illustrator Petra Börner, on a series of limited edition prints, gifted to customers who make an online purchase. Swedish-born Börner has created three exclusive seaside-inspired illustrations for the label. ‘I love the sea and swimming,’ she says. ‘Having grown up spending summers by the rocky landscapes of the Swedish West coast, I am not fazed by cool waters.’ These landscapes acted as the inspiration behind Börner’s linear illustrations, like this reclining swimsuit-clad woman whose hair billows in the wind. Time for a dip?
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
On a roll
13 November
With holiday season approaching, we’re on the case of luxury luggage label Rimowa’s collaboration with Fendi. The German house is the first brand on the LVMH roster to collaborate with the Italian luxury label, and the sublime result of the partnership is a sleek aluminium cabin case, finished with a brushed effect ‘FF’ logo, and a black and yellow web belt. The collaboration blends the greatest characteristics of each brand; think Rimowa’s manoueverable multi wheel system and two TSA locks, and Fendi’s black Cuoio Romano leather handles and customisable placard. How’s that for hot-wheels?
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Hands on
10 November
Richard Boyle, the 3rd Earl of Burlington, completed London's Chiswick House in 1729. The neo-Palladian villa was inspired by the work of architect Andrea Palladio, whose most lauded creations are located within Venice, also the birthplace of the Italian luxury house Bottega Veneta. It’s a fit as sublime as the leather used in the brand’s famed 'Intrecciato' weave then, that today, the label held its exhibition ‘The Hand of the Artisan’ at the renowned 18th-century villa. The immersive exhibition, which spanned the regal rooms of Chiswick House, also charted Bottega Veneta's history. In the 'Cabat Room', artisans from Montebello demonstrated how to create the brand’s luxurious leather designs. A mirrored installation in the 'Knot Room' celebrated the brand’s signature twisted clutch creations, from an archive box clutch created from weaved silver to another embellished with glimmering beaded beetles. In the 'Jewellery Room', skilled craftsman articulated how the brand’s zirconia stones were set and faceted for added sparkle. The exhibition marked the first time Chiswick House has welcomed a brand to take over its space. Like Bottega Veneta's glittering necklaces, it’s a jewel in the villa’s history.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Leading light
9 November
From industrial designer to accessories whiz, Meb Rure, the Turkey-born founder of bag brand Mlouye offers designs that are objets in their own right. Elegant and easy, the sculptural creations hark back to Rure's technical background-some are inspired by Japanese origami and others by the sharp linear aesthetic of the Art Deco movement. We love this lantern-shaped bag. Crafted from Italian calf leather and suede, it comes with a choice of both a long and a short strap, also making it a leading light in easy going design.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Vitrine queen
8 November
In 1961, a young Leïla Menchari was plucked from the École des Beaux-Arts to work in the window display department of Hermès. By 1978, she had taken charge of the house’s Paris windows, a role she kept until 2013. The 13 vitrines of the flagship at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré were her stage, including the corner spot with its enormous double-aspect windows (pictured is a window from summer 1981, entitled La Vague de Marbre). With the help of artists, sculptors, painters, weavers, stonemasons and glassblowers, she drew her dreams and produced scenes, each one more fantastical than the last. Hermès’s artistic director Pierre-Alexis Dumas credits Menchari with being one of the world’s greatest storytellers, and her long career is celebrated this month in a new book Leïla Menchari, The Queen of Enchantment, published by Actes Sud and Hermès, and an exhibition at the Grand Palais in Paris. 'Hermès à Tire-d’Aile, Les Mondes de Leïla Menchari' runs from today until 3 December.
Writer: Nick Vinson
As originally featured in the November 2017 issue of Wallpaper* (W*224)
Family ties
7 November
Modern Moscow brings us Paul & Yakov. Brothers Yury and Petr Polyakov, who growing up acquired their skills in the family’s outerwear business, founded the brand this year after finishing an education in journalism and economics. The vast Russian landscapes and the work of environmental artists Nils-Udo and Andy Goldsworthy formed the inspiration for the A/W 2017 collection, which offers casual ready-to-wear in muted autumn tones and military detailed outerwear that will get you through the coldest Russian winters.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Catwalk king
6 November
‘I chose my vantage point long ago and stayed there,’ says renowned photographer Chris Moore in a ‘Note from Chris’, part of the preface to his latest book. Catwalking is a chronologically ordered visual history of the catwalk images that Moore has captured for the last 60 years, in the greatest fashion cities across the world. From shots of John Galliano’s Central Saint Martins graduation show to Alexander McQueen’s final catwalk spectacle, over 500 photographs are ordered into decades and interspersed with explanatory essays by Wallpaper* contributor Alexander Fury. We’re particularly taken with this image from Hussein Chalayan’s S/S 2000 show at Sadler’s Wells, featured as part of 'The Millennium Bug' chapter from 2000-2009. The collection included an encasing plastic dress, which was manipulated to reveal frothy layers of a petticoat, using a remote control held by a young boy on stage. Catwalking, $75, published by Laurence King
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Making moves
5 November
‘It’s not a fashion film, it’s not a historical film, says Jason Basmajian, chief creative officer of Cerruti 1881, of the brand’s celebratory fiftieth anniversary film. Part dance performance, part biography, the film features interviews between Basmajian and the brand’s charismatic founder Nino Cerruti, spliced with scenes of a dancer twisting his way across the pavements that line the Seine in Paris. For Anima, directed by Karim Zeriahen, Basmajian was inspired by Wayne McGregor’s recent production Tree of Codes, and Travis Clausen-Knight, a principal from the choreographer’s company, spins through the streets in a fluid wool Cerruti overcoat, waistcoat and collar pin. ‘He really broke down the boundaries of menswear,’ Basmajian told us of Cerruti’s founder at the film’s premier, held at the Serpentine Sackler Gallery in London. ‘The way he talks about fashion and style is so relevant today.’
Writer: Laura Hawkins
High five
4 November
One of the favourite go-to places of hip Parisians is a little hidden store in number 14, Rue Debelleyme. Indicated only with a sign reading ‘Études’, it is a well-kept Marais secret and the perfect place to shop for unisex clothing, photography and art books, and rare vintage fanzines. Études- the brainchild of Aurélien Arbet and Jérémie Egry was born 5 years ago when the duo decided to bring together their passion for art and publishing and their sense of aesthetics. ‘It was an ambitious project from the beginning, starting a brand bringing together both fashion, art and books’, says Egry. ‘So far, we’ve launched 13 fashion collections, published 19 books and worked with artists we admire’. To celebrate Études’ first 5 years, Aurélien and Jérémie have launched a new photography book. ‘It’s a compilation of analog pictures taken between 2012 and 2017 by different authors, their identity purposefully concealed so that the attention goes exclusively to the details of each shot. It’s all about fragments, urban landscapes, the everyday in short. Which is what inspires us.’ Joyeux anniversaire, Études.
Writer: Marta Represa
Stocking fillers
3 November
For those contemplating where they’ll be picking up their Christmas shopping this year, look no further than Harrods in London, where Dolce & Gabbana have embarked on a truly Italian festive takeover of the store, running until 28 December. Up on the fourth floor, the brand have erected a teeming street market, its striped stalls and fruit boxes brimming with accessories, baked goods, London-themed treats and Sicily-inspired Smeg appliances. A painter will even be on hand in store to customise accessories for that special someone. The icing on the Christmas cake? A giant Harrods Christmas Tree, designed by Dolce & Gabbana, which sits outside the store’s entrance on Hans Crescent. You'll find us searching for presents under it.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
A,B,C as easy as 1,2,3
2 November
As part of its A-Z of Denim series, London-based brand Mih Jeans has gathered a selection of women from across the globe to customise their favourite pieces with words and slogans. Norwegian stylist Annabel Rosendahl, has chosen to use orange stitching in a delicate font to embroider a pair of jeans around the waistband and a white t-shirt across the right breast. The orange compliments the pale blue wash of the denim and stays true to the brand's 70’s inspired aesthetic.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Prize above
1 November
Last week, the nominations for the Fashion Awards 2017 were announced- an event which is hosted live at London’s Royal Albert Hall. Now, the British Fashion Council and Swarovski have announced that those taking home a trophy on 4 December will be honoured with a design by John Pawson. An architectural designer well versed in fashion- Pawson has created flagships for Calvin Klein and Christopher Kane (two brands nominated for this year’s awards), Pawson has created a sleek crystal cylinder, measuring 240mm in height and 60mm in width, which encloses a lacquer thread running through its centre. When viewed from above, a convex lens magnifies the thread. Each trophy was handcrafted from crystal by Swarovski’s master cutters at the brand's headquarters in Wattens, Austria. We too want to take one home.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Access all areas
31 October
It’s been a busy year for Proenza Schouler. In July, the New York-based label showed its inaugural show in Paris as part of the Haute Couture schedule, and now its founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have announced the launch of PSWL- a secondary and more accessible clothing line. PSWL is an extension of the brand’s ready-to-wear offering and features basic wardrobe stapes including denim, sweatshirts and casual outerwear. For Proenza Schouler’s A/W 2017 farewell show in New York, the brand created a spliced version of its logo. Typography is a touchpoint for PSWL too. The collection’s pieces are branded with a white cotton label printed with a black logo. They sound just our type. PSWL launches in stores and online on Monday 6 November.
Writer: Laura Hawkins.
Shooting hoops
30 October
In celebration of the launch of its Resort 2018 collection, Valentino is calling all the shots with a series of gymnasium-inspired global pop-up shops, in spaces from Tokyo to London. In its augural Tokyo location, the Rome-based brand have created a high energy set up, one with concrete walls, punch-bags, basketballs and yoga mats, branded with the label’s new serif ‘VLTN’ logo. The pop-up store’s interior nods to the sporty aesthetic of Valentino's newly launched silk tracksuits, paired to point-scoring perfection with exclusive studded high tops, branded with ‘Tokyo’ logo sock details. The pop-up space is open until 19 November, at QC CUBE, 4-21-8 Jingumae Shibuya-ku Tokyo.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Hands free
27 October
Last year, we marvelled at the designs of Atelier YUL, the accessories label catering to creatives who need to transport unusually shaped materials, like technical drawings or photography proofs, from their office to home. The brand’s founder, a New York-based architect named Cece, has honed functional and sleek designs like the paired back ‘Folio’ or ‘Tube’, and now Atelier YUL have gone hands free, introducing the new Sac à Dos backpack silhouette. Crafted from pebbled leather, and handmade in Canada, the design features peek-a-boo bungee straps which can transport drawings, small tripods or even a yoga mat. ‘We were striving to create something that was pared-down and essential, but with a special feature to give the bag a functionality that went above and beyond your typical backpack,’ Cece explains of the camping rucksack-inspired designs. Just like the coiled drawings which Atelier YUL aim to protect, the bag is a symbol of a brand on a roll.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Flying high
26 October
Prada takes to the skies with the launch of two new travel trolleys. The first is a four-wheeled model that celebrates two classic brand materials – Saffiano leather and gabardine. Meanwhile, the second trolley comes with two wheels and takes inspiration from the iconic nylon Prada rucksack with a soft body, expandable storage space and internal compartments. Designed to meet the demands of frequent flyers, the trolleys fit comfortably within the cabin and come with bag tracking technology making them the perfect flight companion. Time to check in.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Solid as a croc
25 October
Mathias Augustyniak and Michael Amzalag’s M/M (Paris) is one of the city's most recognisable creative communication agencies. The duo has worked for almost three decades with the likes of Yohji Yamamoto, Nicolas Ghesquière, Björk and, lately, JW Anderson and Loewe. Yet their most recent collaboration - launched last night in the French capital - is with Lacoste. ‘Redesigning the Lacoste logo is pretty much lunacy, considering it’s one of the best ones ever’, says Mathias. ‘So we basically just mimicked it through the alphabet. The l-a-c-o-s-t-e letters take the shape of a crocodile!’ The pair then worked with the brand’s creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptista on a capsule collection made up of its classics, viewed through a street wear lens. There are sweat-shirts, tracksuits, T-shirts, a poncho… and of course tennis apparel and the seminal polo shirt. ‘What we love about Felipe is his way of taking something that already exists and giving it a twist,’ Mathias explains. ‘It’s much cleverer than just doing something completely out-there.’
Writer: Marta Represa
On the hunt
24 October
Besides an uncommon longevity, there is, at first glance, little commonality between Reebok and Huntsman – one is a sports shoe maker since 1895, and the other a Savile Row stalwart, established in 1849. But it’s a dogged obsession with the perfect fit that explains why they make such perfect collaborators.
Their partnership – due to be unveiled in February – is a prototype men’s suit for American football player and Reebok brand ambassador Brandin Cooks, made by Huntsman from Reebok’s new Flexweave. Designed by the Boston-based Reebok Innovation Collective for Reebok’s next generation of footwear, the material features what James Woolard, brand director of Reebok Running describes as a special, open figure-8 construction that interlocks fibres to create a light, durable and stable fabric – the very same qualities so prized in bespoke tailoring.
As Campbell Carey, Huntsman’s head cutter and creative director, points out, Reebok wanted to put Flexweave to the ultimate test in tailoring and fit. ‘If Flexweave can stand up to the standards of Savile Row, then I can imagine it would make a pretty good pair of trainers too!’
Writer: Daven Wu
Zero to hero
23 October
Over the last two decades, Maria Cornejo has pioneered a design-centric approach to fashion with her love of amorphous cuts, sumptuous fabrics and graphic prints. To commemorate such longevity, the designer has released her inaugural tome, which charts the evolution of her brand Zero with sketches, polaroids, runway images and other such mementos for an intimate peek into her design process. In addition to new photographs shot by Cornejo’s husband, Mark Borthwick, Maria Cornejo: Zero is also accompanied by a limited edition, 12-piece capsule collection for Barneys (the label’s first stockist), fittingly centred around Cornejo’s ‘Book’ print, first seen in her A/W 2011 collection.
Writer: Pei-Ru Keh
Puppet master
20 October
Phoebe English has imagined her fashion week presentations as pottery classes and domestic laundry spaces, and now the London-based designer has delved into the narrative of museum setups, holding a retrospective show at the Victoria & Albert Museum, as part of its Fashion in Motion series. For her S/S 2018 women’s presentation, English created miniature versions of the pieces in her collection, presented on puppets created by Judith Hope. For Fashion in Motion, English played puppet master once more, making tiny versions of pieces in her archive, clothed on puppets which were moved by models positioned around the museum’s resplendent Raphael Gallery. ‘We thought it would be a good idea to make a miniature archive,’ English said backstage. ‘These are things that we can store and keep, a nice memento.’
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Staple diet
19 October
After over a decade living and working in London as a strategy consultant, Turin-born Luca Faloni grew tired of returning home in pursuit of quality wardrobe staples. ‘In Italian cities, you know the neighbourhoods that sell good sweaters and shirts at a reasonable price. In London, the same stores just don't exist,’ he says. Determined to make a change, three years ago Faloni launched his eponymous luxury menswear label, specialising in brushed cotton and linen shirts and shorts, leather accessories and cashmere. And while the brand celebrates artisanal quality, it keeps ahead of the curve with surprisingly affordable pricing, which it maintains by skipping the wholesale-to-retailer supply chain and selling directly through its own website. ‘We focus on staples, and have a small selection of products that we know are timeless and will always sell,’ says Faloni. ‘It’s better to develop your designs one by one, rather than launching ten things at once and doing them all wrong.’ Tomorrow sees the brand open a pop-up store, dubbed In The Hood, in London’s Notting Hill. Until 11 November.
Fashion: Jason Hughes Writer: Laura Hawkins
As originally featured in the November 2017 issue of Wallpaper* (W*220)
Moore’s more
18 October
It’s been 15 years since Lisa Bush co-founded the boutique Mona Moore in Montreal, Canada. The retail outpost – renowned for its well-curated array of pieces, from Molly Goddard’s frothy tulle creations to Lemaire’s clean silhouettes, relocated to Venice, California, in 2009, and occupied spaces on Abbot Kinney Boulevard and Main Street. Now, Moore has found a new permanent home on Lincoln Boulevard. The untreated floor of its eclectic space is lined with colourful rugs and comfy furnishings, and boasts rails of eye-catching clothing. The most illuminating feature? A neon tube light sculpture, bearing the boutique’s renowned moniker.
Courtesy of Mona Moore. Writer: Laura Hawkins
Power of two
17 October
A new book, by SHOWstudio editor-at-large Lou Stoppard, celebrates the most dynamic duos in the fashion industry. Championing the power of two, Fashion Together offers insight into the creative approaches of duos including couturiers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, Gareth Pugh and the filmmaker Ruth Hogben and Thom Browne and milliner Stephen Jones. Take partners in life and work Rick Owens and Michèle Lamy, who met in 1990 and married in 2006, and collaborate together on Owens’ furniture and fur collections. ‘We complement each other,’ Owens tells Stoppard. ‘I’m about arriving at the destination from point A to point B with the straightest line. And Michèle is about enjoying the journey.’ Their section in the book – one filled with figurative illustrations by Benoit Barnay, personal mementos and process shots, is one we made a beeline for.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Fashion Together, £55, published by Rizzoli. Pictured artwork by Benoit Barnay
Show me the Monet
16 October
Claude Monet’s Water Lilies (1916) may be on display at the National Museum of Western Art in Tokyo, but now art aficionados can admire the piece at their own arm's length. The impressionist masterpiece is one of the new artworks featured in the second wave of Louis Vuitton and Jeff Koons’ Masters series, which sees a range of canonical art pieces printed upon its signature bag shapes. The second incarnation includes Gaugin’s Delightful Land (1892), Manet’s Luncheon on the Grass (1863), and Turner’s Ancient Rome (1839). It’s a project which echoes Koons’ Gazing Ball series, which saw 35 of the world’s most famous artworks in history reprinted in oil on canvas. They each featured a mirrored metal orb- encouraging viewers to gain a glimpse of their own reflection while admiring the said piece. Reflecting on his own affinity for Water Lilies, Koons calls the piece ‘one of the most beautiful, sensual images of nature. It is an image that plays between appearing concrete and at the same time breaks down becoming completely ephemeral’. Just like Koons, we’ve got our art set on it. ‘Narima' daybed, £46,750.00, by Francis Sultana
Interiors: Benjamin Kempton. Writer: Laura Hawkins
Good deed
15 October
In celebration of its 20th anniversary, Theory has launched ‘Good Wool’, a sustainable collection for both men and women that offers a selection of casual suits and knitted separates. The collection is made using natural fibers sourced at a family run farm, and features hang tags made of recycled paper. It is the next step in the brand’s commitment to increasing its sustainable output. Good things come to those who wait, and Theory has plenty more on the horizon.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Quilt trip
14 October
With fine art no longer confined to being exhibited solely on walls, even fashion accessories have become respected canvases. One particular specimen that is especially poignant is the handbag label MZ Wallace’s union with American artist Kerry James Marshall. In honour of the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago’s 50th anniversary, the New York-based company has partnered with Marshall, who lives and works in Chicago, to cover its signature Metro Tote with his painting Untitled (Painter), one of his pieces in the museum’s collection. The painting’s colour has not only been reproduced on the bag’s quilted surface to a tee, the crop of the image also powerfully conveys the complexities of identity and race that Marshall’s work is known for. All the proceeds from the bag, which is now available to purchase in limited edition, will be donated to the museum in support of its educational programmes.
Writer: Pei-Ru Keh
Window of opportunity
13 October
Lanvin has collaborated with the Institute of Contemporary Arts and renowned graphic artist, Scott King on a six-part stained-glass window installation, Nightmare (2017), on view at its men’s store on London’s Savile Row. Visitors can admire the caricatures of a dubious maiden, stuck between the affections of two lovers who offer contrasting lives – the stark option between globalism and isolationism Lucas Ossendrijver, creative director of Lanvin Homme, was inspired by the everyday for A/W 2017. Similarly, the installation subtly nods to a topic on many a mind – the UK’s impending divorce from the European Union. Nightmare, Scott King, 2017, courtesy of the artist and Herald St, London. Curated by the Institute of Contemporary Arts
Writer: Katie Meston
Strong winds
11 October
Last October, Harvey Nichols in London launched Northwind – a collaboration with Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF), which celebrated the aesthetics of the modern Scandinavian male. Now in a bid to boost the connections between art and fashion, CIFF and Code Art Fair director Kristian W Andersen has moved Northwind further afield to Los Angeles for its second iteration- one which honours the writer and curator Neville Wakefield. Wakefield, the artistic director of the recently launched contemporary art exhibition Desert X, which takes place in Coachella Valley, has had a career that spans the realms of fashion, art and design. He has served as the senior curatorial advisor for MoMA PS1, designed limited-edition luggage for Rimowa and commissioned skate decks for Supreme. Wakefield has also been working on the relaunch label of Rudi Gernreich – the experimental and avant-garde brand which gained renown during the sixties. The relaunch is set for completion next year – a milestone which will be honoured tomorrow at Northwind’s private reception at the Chateau Marmont.
Pictured, Leon Bing in Rudi Gernreich Dress, by Dennis Hopper (1966). © Dennis Hopper, Courtesy of The Hopper Art Trust.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Magic touch
10 October
This season sees Italian tailoring maestro Caruso introduce a capsule travel collection of sartorial separates. Using the brand’s unique ‘Houdini’ fabric, named after the famous illusionist, the pieces perform the impossible by being completely crease and stain resistant. Inspired by global travellers, the relaxed collection of softly tailored jackets and trousers offer the perfect long-haul uniform, and are available to buy exclusively at Fenwick of Bond Street.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Animal instinct
9 October
Cat-eye glasses just took on new meaning with a rebirth of eyewear by Cartier, the iconic panther brand. It’s the result of a surprising partnership between two of the world’s biggest luxury groups, Kering (via its division Kering Eyewear) and Richemont, who own Cartier. The partners unveiled their first joint collection in Paris this week. Modern and luxurious, the 115 models come in a range of shapes and materials (including solid gold), and feature classic Cartier codes: gold panthers and screw heads, a calfskin flap, the signature C.
Kering Eyewear is not yet three-years-old, but it boasts an impressive portfolio, and CEO Roberto Vedovotto says the top-notch team has a combined 900 years of experience in eyewear. He first approached Richemont a year and a half ago because, he explains, ‘I didn’t want to do just another eyewear company, there were already too many, and they were all under the same business model: licensing. My passion is luxury, fashion, and I wanted to do a luxury company in the eyewear industry.’
He saw unrealised potential in Cartier, which had ‘unparalleled’ DNA but considered eyewear a secondary activity. Richemont’s then-CEO, Richard Lepeu, was friendly with Kering CEO Francois-Henri Pinault, so the two parties readily agreed on a strategic partnership, with Richemont acquiring 30 percent of Kering Eyewear. The line is made in Cartier’s French manufacturing facility, with two collections a year rather than one. Could this pave the way for more partnerships? Vedovotto would not say, only noting that ‘The culture and values of the two groups are very similar. We get along very well.’
Writer: Amy Serafin
Photo shop
6 October
Last November, we celebrated the opening of Connolly's new Mayfair home. To mark the brand’s re-launch last year, Chris Killip’s black and white photographs of the Isle of Man graced the walls of its Clifford Street location. It was Killip who captured images of Connolly’s Wimbledon factory in the early nineties. Now, in celebration of Frieze Art Fair, the store is playing host to an exhibition of works by the surrealist and avant-garde German photographer Heinz Hajek-Halke. Twelve of the photographer’s most renowned works will be on display until February 2018. What better backdrop for picking up a Connolly wardrobe classic? Die Ahnengalerie (The Gallery of Ancestors), c 1965. Image: © Heinz Hajek-Halke / Michael Ruetz, Courtesy Augusta Edwards Fine Art
A place in the sun
5 October
It's been 80 years since Thomas A Hill, the grandson of Sunspel’s founder moved his family owned factory – one specialising in high quality basics, crafted from the highest quality cotton- to a new home in Long Eaton. Now a new exhibition at the brand’s Chiltern Street flagship in London celebrates this milestone. The space has been dotted with pieces, artefacts and memorabilia that highlight the history of the Sunspel, one famed for creating some of the earliest versions of the cotton t-shirt, bringing the boxer short to the UK, and clothing Daniel Craig in exquisite polo shirts in Casino Royale. To mark the milestone, Sunspel ha also released a ‘1937’ capsule collection, which takes inspiration from the the brand’s archive. Pieces include women’s underwear with a scalloped hem, and a men’s Henley t-shirt with mother of pearl buttons, both finished with a label boasting an archival Sunspel logo of sunshine breaking through the clouds.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Material world
4 October
We’ve got eyes for neubau,the Austrian-eyewear label producing sustainable frames created from a material termed natural PX. Whether you’re searching for square frames in red brick or circular styles in matte black, neubau’s opticals are created using an eco friendly polymer, made from oil extracted from the castor plant- a renewable and sustainable natural resource. We’ll take a pair in every style
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Eye of the tiger
3 October
At Kenzo, creative directors Humberto Leon & Carol Lim have made leaps and bounds at re-connecting Mr Takada’s brand with the youth of today. It’s why they’ve become more comfortable than ever before looking back at his history: case in point, the ‘Collection Memento’ of tweaked re-editions they are showing on the women’s calendar. How better to educate a new generation to his world than to invite them inside it, as the duo have done in a new 120sqm boutique in the Marais district of Paris, designed by Italian architect Fabrizio Casiraghi.
Imagined as a store-cum-gallery, the project is pegged as a unique Kenzo destination, where fans and passers-by can shop the label’s current collections as well as one-of-a-kind vintage pieces, and experience happenings like the end-of-summer carnival (replete with Dance Dance Revolution machines, balloon dogs, and portrait cartoonist) that fêted its opening last Saturday. 'I referenced the sports hall of my high school for the lino floors,’ says Casiraghi, ‘and the walls are a particular aquamarine blue, straight from the Kenzo archive.’
Contrasting the subtle wrapped wooden veneers and a mustard yellow curtain wall (hiding fitting rooms), the space features Kenzo’s iconic tiger head tufted in multicolour tapestry by French artist Olivier Colombard and windows decked out in neon lights. ‘It’s young and urban but sophisticated, like Kenzo,’ he continued. If it’s lively opening was any indication then watch this space: the store is soon to host more lively Parisian shenanigans for a limited time only.
Writer: Dan Thawley
Hands free
29 September
At Wallpaper* we’re getting our kicks over Nike’s newly dropped HyperAdapt 1.0 trainer. The brand has created the first self-lacing shoe, designed using EARL – electro adapting reacting lacing – technology. Spearheaded by Nike VP for innovation design and special projects Tinker Hatfield, the trainer has a performance focus, designed to alleviate the issue of athletes running in shoes that are too small. ‘So many athletes have worn shoes that are too tight for too long,’ Hatfield says. ‘Their feet become deformed and damaged. These adaptable shoes will not only provide comfort and the perfect fit, but they will actually relax your feet, allow your toes to spread, and encourage them to be healthier.’ The HyperAdapt 1.0 encourages a symbiotic relationship between the shoe and the foot, a formula achieved through the use of a mini-computer, a series of sensors and a lighting system within the shoe, which signals when its laces should be tightened. Hatfield, a former architect and athlete is adept at creating scaled down technology. ‘As an architect you learn how to handle complex processes, but ultimately the biggest thing you learn is catering to people, and what they might want,’ he says. Time to get in step.
Modern love
28 September
To coincide with the landmark exhibition, ‘Items: Is Fashion Modern?’ at MoMA – one which analyses 300 fashion garments for their universal impact on society – MoMA Design Store has collaborated with some of the brands featured on a limited edition line of products. The collection, which will be available during the length of the exhibition, includes a custom Breton shirt from Armor-Lux, Swatch watch designs featuring the museum’s logo and a seamless knit shirt by Cauliflower Issey Miyake. ‘Items: Is Fashion Modern?' opens on 1 October.
Writer: Pei-Ru Keh
Poetry in motion
27 September
Copenhagen-based brand Mr Larkin is a concept created by US-born designer Casey Blond, based on a character whose narrative she weaves into the collections. For Blond’s latest offering, Mr Larkin visits a female artist’s studio and muses on how the idea of the muse has progressed. This narrative, along with the writing of 19th-century poet Christina Rossetti, has inspired the muse embroideries in the A/W 2017 collection, which feature playful continuous stitches depicting the different faces of the modern woman.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
American jean
26 September
Just a few weeks after denim label Frame opened a new flagship in New York’s Soho, the brand has opened an additional American outpost in San Francisco. The living room-inspired interior has minimalist timber accents and marble and mirrored furnishings, plus a grid-like wall of shelving in the brand’s signature shade.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Take a bite
25 September
Formed in 2015, sustainable brand Bite is made up of a collective of designers and forward-thinkers from Stockholm, New York, and London – its collections are crafted and ethically produced in the latter. For Bite’s latest offering, the team has translated menswear volumes into flattering cocoon silhouettes in a dusty colour palette, using innovative materials such as milk and corn cotton fiber fabrics. Now that’s something we’d like to sink our teeth into.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Earthly delights
22 September
Angela Missoni’s countryside home in Brunello, near Missoni’s headquarters in Surimago, is surrounded by a garden designed by the Italian landscape architect Pietro Porcinai. It’s a flourishing fit then, that for her 20th anniversary at the creative helm of the brand her parents founded in 1958, Missoni has created a capsule collection of sweaters and vests embroidered with the natural motifs that inspire her. The collection's varsity style pieces are punctuated with daisies and garlands of leaves. What better birthday blooms?
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Reef encounter
21 September
The designer and couturier Deborah Milner, has for the first time released a collection under her own label, presented earlier this week at Showstudio in London. Milner, who previously worked as a consultant to the late Alexander McQueen, was inspired by life-cycles of coral reefs. She has created a sculptural haute couture collection that evokes their undulations, exemplified with delicate details like pencil drawings of dead corals onto organza. The collection has been created with naturally sourced materials and processes, using natural dyes and environmentally conscious embellishments. For Milner, having a sustainable output and a master hand over her creations is of great importance. Now that’s what we call green-fingered.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Going for gold
20 September
Golden Goose Deluxe Brand forges forward with the opening of not one but two new boutiques this month – the first close to the brand’s headquarters in Venice, Italy, and the other in Los Angeles (pictured). We’re particularly taken with the latter, which features a windowless cement façade adorned with the brand’s star insignia. Inside, stair-like spirals of Carrara white marble display footwear, while garments are suspended from the ceiling. At the centre of the store, an unexpected marble and glass cube acts as a private dressing room.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Heeling power
Los Angeles denim brand Mother is making great new strides on its first foray into footwear, stepping in line with Minnetonka. Founded in Minnesota in 1946, Minnetonka is known for its luxurious suede and fringed moccasins. Available in four limited-edition styles, the new collection is embellished with colourful supernova embroidery inspired by the seventies. We can’t help but put our best foot forward in tan laced ankle boots.
Writer: Laura Hawkins.
In the market for
18 September
Over the weekend, in celebration of London Fashion Week, Dover Street Market London unveiled a series of eye-catching designer installations. During Wallpaper’s tour of the Haymarket space, we spotted a number of gems, like LVMH Prize winner Marine Serre’s domestic corner set, featuring neon moon print wallpaper and a potted plant fresh from the market, still wrapped in a plastic bag; or London label Roberts Wood’s ethereal installation of transparent cutaway panelling. For those keen to catch a glimpse, the installations are on display until the end of the month.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Sketch show
17 September
For those in town for London Fashion Week, the Broadwick Street #Drawfashion exhibition is a must-see. Launched by the London College of Fashion three years ago, the #Drawfashion competition celebrates the work of the UK’s most illuminating illustrators. We’re particularly drawn to the work of Melissa Eakin, whose figurative illustrations have a distorting and surrealist slant. The pop-up exhibition is open until the evening of 19 September, and well worth a look-see.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Social network
15 September
Donald Robertson has released a monograph with Maison Assouline – a tome which showcases the artist and illustrator’s work from the last four years. Famed for his energetic and colourful aesthetic, Robertson has in recent years become the go-to-artist for all fashion related matters. Also known as ’the Andy Warhol of Instagram’, his tall and elongated figures commonly take form with rough paint strokes and coloured tape, working to a minimal and abstracted aesthetic that often has a satirical edge. In Donald, The Book, Robertson says, ‘I like a good joke. I love to laugh at myself and anybody who takes themselves too seriously.’ While Warhol’s fans and muses had The Factory, today @drawbertson’s devotees (all 191,000 of them), follow his creative and humorous pursuits on Instagram.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Talking shop
14 September
What better time than New York Fashion Week to celebrate the redesign of Max Mara’s flagship on Manhattan’s Madison Avenue? The Italian label opened the boutique in 1994, and in celebration of its retail heritage, the brand has worked with Duccio Grassi Architects on a redesign that reclaimed the markings of the original bricks and walls. Ceppo stone makes a statement at the entrance; the boutique’s interiors feature brass and stone walls, and a geometric oak and marble floor. A bespoke tubular brass chandelier tops off the sleek store design. What a homecoming.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
A wooly welcome
13 September
With its 'Wooly Friends' installation at its flagship boutique in London, Marni is bringing the vibrant colours of Colombia to Mount Street. The brand has a longstanding partnership with the craftsmen of the country, and this year’s outcome of its relationship is a limited edition collection of hand-made wool and metal animals, inspired by Colombia's traditional knitwear. Currently on display for animal loving customers at Marni’s London outpost, the creations are also available to buy, and make for the chicest household pets.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
1, 2, 3, APC
12 September
In celebration of its 30th anniversary, APC presents the tome Transmission – a window into the mind of the brand’s founder Jean Touitou, and a visual history of the renowned Parisian label. Published by Phaidon, the book is divided into three parts, and features an archival montage of visual and written ephemera. The book also features a curated selection of images created with key collaborators, including Collier Schorr and Alasdair McLellan. As Touitou says, Transmission encapsulates a ‘catalogue raisonné’.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
American dream
11 September
With New York Fashion Week in full swing, what better time to spotlight the flourishing fashion scene of other American cities? Take Boston, which boasts a recently opened art deco-inspired Saint Laurent store. The Parisian label’s 24th boutique in the US features walls in black and white marble, leather and chrome benches, and a nickel plated brass display counter. We can’t wait to take a tour.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Tome coming
8 September
The designer and anthophile Dries Van Noten, celebrated his 100th catwalk show in March this year. With almost 35 years in the industry, a wealth of designs and a pattern and fabric-focused attention to fashion, the Belgian designer has released a two-volume tome, published by Lannoo, to document his story. Each show, from his S/S 2017 menswear spectacle, featuring a a set constructed from a wall of large industrial lights, to his S/S 2015’s women’s show, boasting a 48-metre long carpet artwork by artist Alexandra Kehayoglou, has been analysed through texts by Tim Blanks and Susannah Frankel. The book due, for publication on October 1, follows the June release of Reiner Holzemer’s biopic Dries. What better ways to celebrate such a milestone?
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Sole traders
7 September
Tomas Maier has been preoccupied with numbers. Not only does the US-based brand turn 20 this year, but it has also singled out the year 1968, as an era of great design. Maier has collaborated with sports behemoth Puma on a reissue of its Roma trainer, created that same year. The style, released in a limited-edition range of 200 pairs, features Maier’s signature debossed palm tree, no surprise, considering its founder splits his time between New York and Palm Beach.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Photo shop
6 September
With New York Fashion Week kicking off today, there’s a tumult of talent making waves on and off the catwalks. Vivienne Westwood, Andreas Kronthaler and longtime collaborator Juergen Teller have transformed Vivienne Westwood’s Manhattan flagship store into an exhibition space celebrating the trio’s decade old creative partnership. The vast array of curated images ranges from campaign shots to magazine editorials, portraits to art projects. The exhibition is on display over two floors of the majestic French Beaux-Arts building until the end of October.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Two faced
5 September
The American outdoor giant The North Face was established in 1968, yet it has only recently made its way into the closets of urbane explorers the world over since partnering with Junya Watanabe in 2013. Its latest collaboration with the Japanese label Sacai debuted yesterday at Dover Street Market in London. Designer Chitose Abe has applied her signature hybrid aesthetic to the brand’s iconic Mountain Jacket and Nuptse style, splicing them together with MA-1 military shapes. It is an allegiance between form and function. Abe says: ‘I had known about their water protection technology but I was surprised to learn about The North Face’s moisture management and warming technologies. Our samples were sent back and continuously tested to make sure that they offered complete water protection. This is an encounter between silhouette and technology.’
Writer: Dal Chodha
Gender theory
4 September
Serena Rees knows a thing or two about seduction. The founder of Agent Provocateur, who launched the renowned lingerie brand in 1994 (and sold a decade ago), has created a brand synonymous with glamorous and overt allure. Now, with the launch of her new lingerie and streetwear line Les Boys Les Girls, Rees has taken a more pared-back approach to attraction. The 100-piece debut adopts a gender fluid and democratic aesthetic, one inspired by the mindset of the entrepreneur's children and their friends. Providing real sparkle at Wallpaper* HQ is the brand’s range of glittering Lurex separates, paired insouciantly with casual hooded zip-ups.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Storm chaser
1 September
London-based luggage brand Troubadour create handcrafted bags and accessories that blend tradition with the demands of today. Pushing the possibilities of design forward for the rainy months ahead, the label has produced the limited edition Dryline Leather Rucksack - a completely waterproof leather bag. With its sleek, minimal appearance and waterproof properties, the silhouette is the perfect hands-free city to country companion.
Writer: Jason Hughes
The now factor
31 August
Launching in September, ‘Fashion Now’ is an ease-fuelled in-room wardrobe service born from the exclusive partnership between London’s Regent Street staple Hotel Café Royal, and online clothing powerhouse Matchesfashion.com. Originally conceived with the purpose of curbing panic buying in case of a lost suitcase, the service allows hotel residents to select curated pieces, ranging from active-wear to formal clothing, that will be delivered to their room upon their arrival. The service also offers the possibility to consult with an expert stylist, and gives the suite guests of the Hotel private access to the retailer’s flagship store in Marylebone. This innovative service encapsulates the essence of travelling, its hazards and the excitement of discovering something new. It’s also the perfect service for catering to a spontaneous and unquenchable wardrobe refresh.
Writer: Sofia Dotta
Clear view
30 August
Visitors to Jermyn Street in London’s menswear hub St James’s will notice the new store and atelier of spectacles brand Cubitts. The design, envisaged by Studio DRAW, is a homage to traditional British craftsmanship. It features a hand painted glass façade, bespoke consultation desks created by the furniture maker Max Woodall, and, in a nod to the mathematical persuasion of former resident Isaac Newton, the tiled floor sports a bold geometric pattern. Now that's a design that adds up.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Sticking point
29 August
Whether you’re keen to personalise your nylon Prada backpack or any other accessory of your choice, the brand’s most upcoming ‘My Character’ pop up at Harrods in London has the answer. We’ll be getting stuck into the space’s ‘My Sticker’ offering, featuring patches crafted from Saffiano leather, that can be repositioned at will. For when the sun goes down on summer, we’ll be opting for this palm-tree topped interpretation, paired with a ‘W’ keyring, naturally.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Pull the cord
25 August
Omar Varts, CEO of Swedish label The Cords & Co, is on a mission to reinvent corduroy clothing. The Cords & Co, the unisex brand which launches today, features a cacophony of corduroy pieces, from wide legged trousers, to hoodies, bringing a new level of texture to timeless silhouettes. The brand are embarking upon 6 global flagship openings, from Los Angeles to Stockholm, New York to Paris, so wherever you are based, prepare for the pieces to strike the perfect wardrobe chord.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Winter warmers
24 August
Canada Goose has the winter months all wrapped up with the launch of its debut knitwear collection. Bringing its purpose-driven design in crafting function-first apparel to merino wool garments, the collection strategically weaves different stitch patterns to regulate body temperature and increase comfort, warmth and breathability. The garments are available in three different knit weights to tackle even the coldest of climates.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Agile working
23 August
Activewear brand No Ka’Oi’s garments attest to both performance and style. Approaching its designs from a graphic perspective, segmented shapes come together to form an armour of colour down the body, as seen here in this combination of autumnal tones. The brand has worked with Italian embroidery group Rilievi to ensure the highest level of craft and construction, creating designs that are both alluring, graceful and performance ready.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
In good shape
22 August
Earlier this year, we delighted in the S/S 2017 designs of LA-based accessories label Building Block. The brand’s creations, masterminded by sisters Kimberly and Nancy Wu, featured smooth leather finishes resembling 3D renderings. Building Block’s recent A/W 2017 offering, with its look book art directed by Ania et Lucie, is also on top form. With autumn approaching, we’re gravitating to these deep red designs, imagined in cheeky pouch shapes or sturdy box-shaped shoulder bags.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Paper stock
21 August
Turning the concept of a throwaway item into a treasured keepsake, Acne Studios has launched its Baker ‘paper’ bag, alongside its men’s A/W 2017 collection. Constructed from cotton and leather, the new style comes in two designs, one in a beige palette, the other featuring a facial motif based on the brand’s renowned magazine Acne Paper.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Driving seat
18 August
Italian luxury leather specialist Tod’s has released a new range of sneakers for summer. The all-white collection comes with the brands iconic Gommino pebble motif running along the soles and back tongue. A top stitched black line and zig-zag cut stripe add a graphic go-faster side detail.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Let it slide
17 August
Giving us the slip up for A/W 2017 is New York-based shoe label Gray Matters. Founded by Silvia Avanzi in 2016, the brand has an arresting architectural persuasion, and is one that naturally caught our eye. Of particular appeal is Gray Matters’ offering of Italy-crafted slip on mules. Our must-have pairs, lensed here by Charlie Schuck, with set design by Natasha Felker, come with folded origami-inspired details or with a delicate cut out upper that dives towards the toes.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Good form
16 August
The modern man’s wardrobe is getting an update courtesy of newly launched online retailers Form&Thread. Shunning the traditional fashion season cycle in favour of timeless classics, everyday menswear essentials come fuss free in functional fabrics. Coming out on top form? This class Breton-striped long sleeve tee, crafted in a weighty cotton jersey.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Glass act
15 August
Italian eyewear specialist Safilo has set its sights on bringing cutting edge innovation to its history of impeccable craftsmanship. Oxydo, its atelier eyewear label, comprises frames created using state of the art 3D printing. The brand’s experimental artisans have collaborated with the New York-based artist Francis Bitonti on a pair of gold-lensed sunglasses framed with a 3D-printed carved black mono-panel. The distinctive design acts as a symbol of an optical label looking forward into the future.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Magic circles
14 August
The ‘Mùn’, a box bag, perfectly constructed in the round, is the product of a collaborative project between Bertoni 1949 and the Hangar Design Group. The structured silhouette merges the Italian bag label’s architectural aesthetic with the Hangar Design Group’s staple black and white colour persuasion. Made from a patchwork of leather and alligator skin, the bag features a precious wooden handle, allowing the spellbinding design to come full circle.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Looking forward
11 August
We set our sights on eyewear label Ace & Tate’s store design in November 2016, when the Dutch brand opened its first New Tendency-designed Berlin flagship. Now the label has opened its second optical outpost in Charlottenburg, collaborating with local artist Guillaume Kashima on the store’s interior. The space features a cubism-inspired painting in Kashima’s figurative style, which extends over a wall of the store. It also boasts a neon light installation – a signature feature throughout Ace & Tate boutiques. We can’t wait for a closer look.
Writer: Laura Hawkins.
Mobile marvels
10 August
As part of our Artist’s Palate series in our September issue Style Special, we asked footwear aficionado Manolo Blahnik to reveal the culinary secrets behind his bread and butter pudding. With the issue out now, what better time to look at the inspiration behind Blahnik’s current collection? The shoemaker looked to the mobile sculptures of Alexander Calder for A/W 2017. The shapes of his delicately balanced creations are replicated in dot and grid patterns on elegant ankle-strap sandals. Their perfect accompaniment? A large slice of pudding.
Writer: Laura Hawkins.
London calling
9 August
Sisters Nicky and Simone Zimmermann, who founded their renowned womenswear label in Sydney in the early 1990s, always felt an affinity for the city of London. It’s a connection they have strengthened with the opening of the brand’s first European flagship in Mayfair. The two-storey space, designed by Australian architect, Don McQualter – a longtime collaborator of Zimmermann – is the 24th store in its global portfolio. The boutique’s steel staircase, which brings to mind the curving forms of Richard Serra’s sculptures, works in juxtaposition to the intricately detailed pieces on display, and is equally eye catching whether ascending to the upper floor, or heading down (under).
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Meeting of minds
8 August
‘We’re not compatible at all’, smiles Valérie Vanermen when asked about the allocation of duties she shares with Marie Libeert, the childhood friend with whom she founded the year-old Belgian accessories brand Marvais. Opting to design everything together rather than choosing the classic creative/business divide, Vanermen and Libeert combine their experience in interior design and marketing, respectively, to design high-quality bags that are a stirring combination of bold shapes and low-key colours.
Marvais’ A/W 2017 collection is made of vegetable tanned leathers which are kept as matte as possible, and comprises of four boxy styles in five poetically defined colours such as Vineyard Wine and Ombre Blue. With a bi-colour imprint that turns suede straps and linings into a trademark, Marvais shows an evident knack for conceiving recognisable yet versatile bags with a sound sensibility for construction.
Writer: Siska Lyssens
Going for gold
7 August
Giving us the Midas touch this season, is Brooks Brothers ‘Golden Fleece’ collection. The offering blends casual silhouettes with luxurious fabrications, and striking gold is this tan suede bomber jacket. The style is inspired by an archive seventies design by the American label.
Writer: Laura Hawkins.
A fine art
4 August
‘The Art Deco period unfolded at the same time as Argentina’s golden years, when Buenos Aires, dubbed Latin America’s Paris, became a metropolis favoured by an unprecedented cultural fervour. It brought universal exposure to the city for the first time ever,’ says Alexandra de Royere, the CEO and creative director of the Buenos Aires-based sustainable bag label Solantu. The geometric clasp details and shades encompassed in the label’s luxurious latest range of caiman skin bags, take inspiration from the period. Each clasp - handcrafted by North Argentinian artisans from precious stones- is unique. ‘The combination of art and luxury came naturally. It is a language shared by our brand’s founder Silvia Gold’, de Royere adds. 'What interests us above all is reinterpreting this exciting period in a contemporary way.’
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Natural instinct
3 August
Eszter Áron, designer of Hungarian brand Áeron, aspires to create clothes that reinvent traditional tailoring techniques from her native Hungary. Using premium materials, like Japanese leather, her sculptural designs play oversized shapes against tailored forms, which are enhanced by refined details such as a bow tie on a classic white shirt. The A/W17 collection continues to pursue this aesthetic, centring the designs around a natural and crisp colour palette of white, black and browns, with textural flourishes of velvet and tweed.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Dance off
2 August
Herschel Supply Co celebrates the vibrant buzz of 1980s New York street culture with a collection that embraces the work of iconic pop artist Keith Haring. Consisting of apparel, headwear and accessories, emblazoned with Haring’s signature graffiti dancing man characters, the collection marks the first Herschel Supply Apparel offering. Design director Jon Warren explains, ‘Haring truly represented that period in New York’s history, and was a pioneer in making street art accessible to a wider audience, which we found really inspiring.’
Writer: Jason Hughes.
Science project
1 August
This summer, when strolling through the heart of Mykonos’ Chora, holidaymakers should keep an eye out for Alchemist boutique. Featuring sharp geometric lines, and white marble volumes scattered across the space like an ancient ruin, the store forms a transition between the original space and its surroundings. Designed by the Athens-based Kois Associated Architects, Alchemist offers a carefully chosen selection of minimalistic garments for both men and women.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Achilles heel
31 July
Handmade in Greece, Valia Gabriel’s eponymous summer-ready sandal label is inspired by the simplicity and minimalism of Grecian sculpture. Crafted from Italian leather, and imagined in earthy colours, the styles offer a contemporary take on signature Grecian sandals. We’ll be stepping into this crossover ankle strap design – the ideal footwear accompaniment for not just a Hellenic, but also any global adventure.
Writer: Juliet Dyer
Tulle box
28 July
In January this year, artist Benjamin Shine delighted the audience at Maison Margiela’s Artisanal S/S 2017 show in Paris, collaborating with creative director John Galliano on a coat overlaid with tulle, and crafted into the shape of an ethereal face. Now, the British artist has worked with the New York retail behemoth Bergdorf Goodman on a series of window installations featuring floating facial silhouettes, each crafted from a single length of brightly coloured tulle. The intricate detail of the designs, and the meticulous pace used to craft them, subvert the immediate gratification of the selfie in today’s digital age. On display until 3 August, they also bring a whimsical element to window shopping.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
A modernist approach
27 July
Using traditional Scottish and French techniques that have been tweaked to suit contemporary design, founders of Studio La Fetiche, April Critchon and Orely Forestier, have created a collection of wardrobe staples influenced by the experimental language of modernism. Strong geometric prints feature throughout the brand's latest collection, on pieces that have been tailored to fit a contemporary aesthetic. Appropriately, the collection has been photographed in Le Corbusier’s Villa Savoye, the iconic concrete building built by the pioneer of design between 1928 and 1931. The location also reflects the architectural inspiration behind the collection. Note the design of the building’s ribbon windows, which are evoked in the curved red print of a navy sweater. Courtesy of Fondation Le Corbusier, Maison La Roche, Paris
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Double vision
26 July
The iconoclastic spirit of the multi-hyphenate creative Virgil Abloh and his label Off-White hits a new high with a collaboration with the socially conscious eyewear company, Warby Parker. Both founded to challenge industry norms, the two entities have teamed up on a capsule collection of sunglasses, now available while stocks last. Striking a clever balance between conceptual fashion and being simply tongue-in-cheek, the range is comprised of three angular frames, – each a different riff on Abloh’s notion of a pair of classic black sunglasses. Architectural with a cinematic hint of the surreal, the trio are beautifully made from chunky acetate and boast exaggerated proportions, zero base curve lenses and blue anti-reflective coatings on the inner lenses for that extra oomph. ‘I welcomed the idea of bringing a unique concept to life, one shape extended and compressed to express a different emotion in eyewear,’ he says, ‘I’m honoured to work with such a progressive company like Warby Parker, who was able to help me realise my vision.’
Writer: Pei-Ru Keh
Cocktail hour
25 July
For the functional clasp details in her latest ‘Catch’ collection, London-based accessories designer Sophie Hulme was inspired by the utensils of mixologists. The elegant bronze-set and gold-plated clasps of her new minimalist bag designs nod to cocktail mixers. We think the rich leather fabrications and happy hour-worthy details of her latest offering are the perfect blend. Time for a tipple?
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Shirt shapers
24 July
After studying architecture in Germany and Japan, the founder of Kasius, Kasia Kucharska worked as an interiors architect for various fashion brands. It was at this time the designer realised she wanted to shift her focus to the human silhouette. Following a study in fashion design and a year of development, Kasius' first collection features 4 limited edition styles. The shapes and characteristics of the designs are inspired by the classic men’s shirt and adapted for the female body.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Sole mates
23 July
For the sleek renovated interior of Bartoli’s footwear boutique in Italy’s Forte dei Marmi, architect Roberto Lazzeroni, looked to a range of timeless furnishings and fixtures. The ground floor 180 sq m space, features terrazzo and oak-aged flooring, a resplendent Calacatta Oro marble wall and furnishings in American walnut and ebony oak. For those seeking comfort during their shopping trip, Lazzeroni also designed a curving drop armchair and sofa, finished with neutral upholstery, and peppered the store with furniture he designed for Ceccotti Collezioni – including a double stacked ‘Fagiolo’ table and high legged ‘Lampo’ lamp.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Shell raiser
22 July
An appreciation for workmanship and a love for travel formed the base of Emm Kuo, an accessories brand founded by New York-based Emmaline Kuo Ranzman. The clutches in the ‘Evening’ collection are all handmade in an eco-friendly studio in the Philippines where artisans work with natural materials such as mother-of-pearl and Paua shells that are indigenous to the region. Often it is the patterns of the wood and shells that direct the design, resulting in a collection of bags that are all unique.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
A good egg
21 July
Maureen Doherty launched the cerebral clothing label egg after a brief sabbatical from the high hokum of Paris fashion in 1994: ‘egg is for people who do not feel comfortable wearing fashion and like clothes that last for years,’ she says. Doherty’s slow retail philosophy has never changed and the label has become principal outfitter to a diverse group of women and men who have grown out of the seasonal spin. Today marks the opening of its first pop-up store selling pieces from the last five years. The look made up of artisanal fabrics and utilitarian, unfussy shapes is the new punk – beyond fashion but not anti it. The egg pop up archive sale in London runs from 21 July – 5 August at 121 Sydney Street.
Writer: Dal Chodha
Specs appeal
20 July
In the Four Score feature in our March ‘Style Special’ issue, we celebrated the timeless aesthetic of the Amsterdam-based brand Salle Privée. No surprise then that we’ve got eyes for the brand’s debut sunglasses collection. Continuing the label's philosophy for reimagining menswear wardrobe staples, the modernist collection consists of eight seasonless frames. Designed by Patrick Munsters, the range includes shapes and colour-ways synonymous with classic men’s style.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Raising the bar
19 July
Wallpaper’s very own esteemed contributor and fashion connoisseur Alexander Fury has written the very first catwalk overview of the legendary French fashion house Christian Dior. Published by Thames & Hudson, Dior Catwalk features over 180 collections and marks the development of the fashion brand from 1947 to the present day. Inside the tome, Fury has dissected each collection from one creative director to the next, approaching the inspirations, garments and the spectacle of the show itself. Looks from John Galliano’s S/S 1999 ready-to-wear show particularly caught our eye, a collection inspired by the multi-disciplinary abstract artist Sonia Delaunay. Her mastery of colour and geometry inspired the graphic prints in the collection, the artist connection exemplifying the forward-thinking nature of the fashion brand, renowned for its creation of the revolutionary Bar silhouette 70 years ago. Photography: Aylin Bayhan
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Good sport
18 July
Nike rarely does anything in halves, and so for its new New York headquarters, the sporting giant didn’t hesitate to transform a six-floor, 150,000 square foot space into a home it can truly be proud of. Housing design, communications, brand, leadership and sales teams, Nike’s NYHQ is a fully functional articulation of the brand’s philosophy, conceived by its Workplace Design + Connectivity team and Studios Architecture.
Open plan and flexible workspaces provide a variety of settings to support concentration and collaboration. Desks, which can be used both seated and standing, were custom designed by Mash Studios and Nike’s in-house team. There are plenty of special features referencing the Nike universe, be it the 4,000 square foot indoor basketball court with seating for 400 that will host local leagues, high school teams and community partners, a library jointly curated by Nike NY and Phaidon, or the custom-designed food truck doling out on-the-go food and refreshments.
Specially commissioned artwork, such as illustrations by Micah Belamarich, digital art by More and More and foam tiles featuring basketball and running iconography designed by the studio, We Should Do It All, peppers all the spaces in between. Everything is literally topped off by the outdoor roof deck and its giant swoosh made from succulents, which happens to be even visible from the Empire State Building.
Writer: Pei-Ru Keh
Fashion on film
17 July
‘Fashion is such an empty word,’ says Dries Van Noten in Dries, the new feature length documentary film. Directed by Reiner Holzemer, the German filmmaker behind William Eggleston: Photographer and Magnum Photos: The Changing of a Myth, the film explores Noten’s approach to four fashion collections, documenting his creative process from his Antwerp office and in the splendid gardens of his sprawling home, and celebrates his enduring fascination with naturalism, prints and colour. For the film, Holzemer followed the Belgian designer for a full year, and this narrative is interspersed with snippets of Noten musing on film footage of his past runway shows, and considering his now signature aesthetic, one bursting with exuberant patterns and prismatic touches. The documentary also features commentary about Noten’s lasting career (the designer began his career in 1986 as a famed member of the Antwerp Six) from a host of fashion critics and figures, including Iris Apfel and Suzy Menkes.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Line of sight
16 July
When contemplating the design of In-sight concept store in Miami, Mallorca-based architects OHLAB looked to the boutique’s binocular logo for inspiration. The interior of the downtown space features 24 timber panels, edged with white Corian, each one evoking two interlaced circles inspired by the curving form of binoculars. Noted in these images of the space, lensed by Patricia Parinejad, the panels evoke an elongated optical illusion effect, also cleverly creating sections of storage space for the boutique’s range of multi-brand clothing and accessories.
Writer: Laura Hawkins.
In the fold
14 July
In our March ‘Style Special’ issue, we mused on the sublimity of Issey Miyake’s Pleats Please line, an innovative collection founded in 1989, which features wrinkle-free pleated clothing, created by feeding fabric through a heated press. Imagine our glee then, that Selfridges in London has opened ‘The World of Issey Miyake’ a new instore boutique on its second floor. The 47 square metre space features not only Pleats Please, but both Bao Bao and the Japanese’s label’s mainline collection, culminating in over 180 kaleidoscopic clothing options for the new season.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Wool worth
13 July
Womenswear label Le Kilt (left) and menswear designer Matthew Miller (right) have been crowned the winners of the 2017/18 International Woolmark Prize for the British Isles. Fighting off competition from designers including Liam Hodges and Roberts Wood, for his winning entry, Miller created a tailored wool double-breasted tuxedo, layered with a raincoat with a 100% Merino removable lining. Le Kilt designer Samantha McCoach opted for a look crafted from embroidered wool denim, topped with a beret. For their regional win, both designers gain a financial contribution of AU$70,000, and for the next six months will develop their Merino wool capsule collections, which will be showcased as entries as part of the worldwide Woolmark final.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Chinatown
12 July
A gritty, humid alley in the backstreets of Chinatown served as the perfect backdrop for Raf Simons to present his S/S 2018 collection – the brand’s second showing in the designer’s recently adopted home of New York, and our most anticipated show of the city's men’s fashion week. Simons’ collection was a rebelliously charged mash-up of Eastern and Western influences, with dystopian futuristic overtones.
Tailored, yet oversized round-shouldered jackets were mixed with loose-fitting, knee-length shorts and layered with slashed, chunky jumpers, sarong-style wrap skirts and long-line tunics. A series of exaggerated, cocoon-shaped coats, shown in wool, shiny leather and raincoat variants, brought an especially dramatic allure. Amping up the collection’s anarchistic pastiche effect was its embrace of different fabrics, which ranged from refined Prince of Wales plaids to colourful printed silks.
The work of Peter Saville, whom Simons’ called on to help redesign the Calvin Klein logo, and who he collaborated with on a range of now iconic printed parkas in 2003, also brought an added graphic appeal. Prints created from the renowned logos, imagery and photo negatives that Saville designed for New Order and Joy Division rippled through the pieces for a vibrant, yet almost nostalgic effect.
Writer: Pei-Ru Keh
Dream designs
11 July
Like all good ideas, the inspiration for Bike (BK) Bayer’s bag label 324 New York, came in the middle of the night. Her morning epiphany- one that came at 3:24am- occurred after the designer noticed a pile of neglected handbags at the bottom of her wardrobe, encouraging her to make one which can evolve. 324 New York works with an Istanbul atelier to produce leather bags that promote versatility, and are able to transform from one design into another with the use of an array of different add-ons. The modular designs are made using both Turkish and Italian leather and are available in a variety of muted colours that adhere to the laidback and modern aesthetic of the brand.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Pack a punch
10 July
A collaboration between Golden Goose Deluxe Brand and multi-faceted artist Omar Hassan makes for a colourful collection of T-shirts and trainers. The ex-boxer, whose solo show Do Ut Des is currently on display in the Chiesetta della Misericordia as part of the Venice Biennale, creates his paintings by repeatedly punching the canvas with his boxing gloves dipped in paint. On invitation by the Italian shoe brand, Hassan took his technique beyond the canvas for this selection of one-of-a-kind pieces that pack a colourful punch, covered in an abstract array of paint splashes.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Soft landing
7 July
Mongolian designer Mandkhai Jargalsaikhan, of the eponymous knitwear brand, focuses on challenging perceptions of cashmere. There’s more than meets the eye concerning the vibrant maroon and mustard shades of the A/W17 collection. ‘At our lab we are constantly improving and testing new colours,’ she says. ‘The maroon is a colour that we developed a while back. At the time we were looking at old rugs that a lot of people used in their home interior during Soviet times.’ The cashmere used is sourced from free roaming goats, which develop fine and soft fibers during harsh winters. During the spring months each coat is combed out by nomadic herders, producing a textile that is more resistant to unraveling and pilling. Underpinned with complete control of the supply chain, Mandkhai educates consumers to make a more informed choice about the quality of cashmere they buy.
Writer: Katie Meston
Square route
6 July
Adidas has teamed up with Danish textile manufacturer Kvadrat to re-imagine its iconic Stan Smith sneakers. Appearing in Kvadrats’s ‘Squares’ fabric by Danish designer Vibeke Rohland, multiple coloured dots set out in a grid formation give the sneakers an optical overhaul.
Writer: Jason Hughes
In the frame
5 July
Swiss eyewear label Viu has added to its impressive roster of 23 flagship stores with a new boutique in Copenhagen – its first in Scandinavia. We’ve got eyes for not only its sleek and monochrome store design, but also the group exhibition that has been held within the space to celebrate its launch. The show features the work of five Scandinavian artists – Freya Dalsjø, Albert Grøndahl, Lea Guldditte Hestelund, Amalie Adrian, and Gro Sarauw. The pieces, multidisciplinary in their curation, include video performances of the ballet dancer Amalie Adrian and a sculpture like installation created from a stack of trench-coats by the fashion designer Freya Dalsjø. The inaugural exhibition is a symbol of exemplary craftsmanship that extends from Viu’s optical aesthetic, it’s boutique design and its dedication to the diverse Scandinavian art scene.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Estilo español
4 July
Spanish design house Loewe has teamed-up with Ibiza’s renowned boutique Paula’s, to create an exclusive collection. Famed for being one of the founders of true bohemian Balearic style, Paula’s nature-inspired designs have motivated Loewe’s creative director Jonathan Anderson from a young age, who visited the island on trips as a child. Working together, the two have found a middle ground that combines the laidback style of Paula’s with Loewe’s luxurious take on functional modern clothing. Paula’s co-founder Armin Heinemann, shared archived designs and prints with Loewe’s design team, creating the capsule collection that combines both aesthetics. Look-out for some of Loewe’s classic designs, such as the Puzzle Bag and T Pouch that have been given an island touch with colourful graphic prints. The collection is currently sold at a pop-up shop situated in Ibiza’s MACE (Museum of Contemporary Art), alongside an exhibition that showcases Paula’s designs from the 1980’s.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Keeping house
3 July
Welcome to Maison Chloé, a Haussman-style building in the 8th arrondissement devoted to the history of the Parisian brand. The cultural space will offer a permanent retrospective, focusing on the work of the house’s founder Gaby Aghion and the eight design directors who succeeded her, to a year-round programme of temporary exhibitions and events. Titled ‘Femininities – Guy Bourdin’, Maison Chloé’s first exhibition celebrates a longstanding collaboration with the influential French photographer. Through images that have never before been seen as well as archive designs, from today, visitors will get a rare glimpse in the history of the free-spirited brand, a heritage that is on view until 3 September.
Pictured: Guy Bourdin, Paris Vogue 1971. Chloé autumn-winter 1971 collection. © The Guy Bourdin Estate, 2017. Courtesy of A + C
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Twinkle toes
30 June
As far as celebrity auctions go, Havaianas latest philanthropic endeavor – in aid of Women For Women International – is worth placing your bids on. The pieces, inspired by the ubiquitous Havaianas flip-flops, will be auctioned off with all proceeds going to the charity, which supports marginalised female survivors of war. Having been given carte blanche, the designer's results are anything but ordinary – from Naomi Campbell’s platform stilettos to Stephen Jones's flip flop-inspired hat. Our money’s on Simone Rocha’s customisation, pictured, brimming with her signature delicate pearls.
Writer: Katie Meston
Showroom stopper
29 June
Italian label Dondup has worked with Sybarite on the sleek design of its new Rome showroom. ‘Sybarite’s approach has been to strip everything back with authenticity, from the design of the space to the materials chosen,’ the interior architect’s explain. The space, imagined in four fundamental materials – corten, brushed brass, oxidised steel and raw steel – features modular and fluid furnishings. ‘Everything is flexible and interchangeable in the design, you can choose to mix and match a combination of rails, tables, mirrors’ they add. We’re drawn to Sybarite’s early sketch of the space, which nods to its organic blue, red and reddish brown colour scheme, one that in its final stages has been populated with velvet panelled seats, and distressed wood and mesh furniture panels. The kit will be rolled out throughout Dondup’s showrooms and global stores, spaces which are sure to act as rooms with a view.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Framing in
28 June
In recent years, fashion illustration has certainly proved itself as an independent art form. Enhanced by platforms such as social media, illustrators have been able to carve strong identities for themselves as artists. The Fashion Illustration Gallery was founded in 2007 as a method to promote this style of art work, and to sell original prints made by artists who have worked as fashion illustrators. Following the successful opening of its art fair, FIGAF now returns this Friday 30 June to The Shop at Blue Bird in London's Chelsea. The three-day event will host a series of talks alongside an exhibition and sale of the artworks. We’re particularly drawn to the work of Monique Baumann. Her collage style combines found imagery with loose pen marks and rough cut-outs, creating distinctive compositions that play with the full space of the frame.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Ghost writer
27 June
Stone Island’s new ‘Ghost’ range takes the concept of camouflage to the next level, with an entirely monochromatic capsule collection of apparel. Even the iconic Stone Island badge has been reinterpreted in special mono-colour versions to disappear within the garment. A newly developed fabric technology has been applied to make lightweight jackets and sweatshirts entirely waterproof and breathable.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Word play
26 June
For Fendi’s A/W 2017 men’s collection, Silvia Venturini Fendi was inspired by motivational words spearheaded by Ernest Hemingway. The designer created her own Fendi-isms, positive lexicons to live by, like ‘Love’, ‘Yes’ and ‘Fantastic’, which featured as bold slogans in the collection. Now a Fendi pop-up has come to Dover Street Market in London, a store whose own ‘DSM’ initials spur notions of positive individualism and creativity. It features pieces emblazoned with the Fendi vocabulary, words which are also replicated in bright colours on perspex bricks across the space. It’s one we’ve had our eyes on from the word go.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Talking scents
23 June
Last night, at Spencer House in London, Calvin Klein celebrated the launch of its newest fragrance ‘Obsessed’. The scent, composed of aromatic and oriental notes for women, and conceived in woody, amber notes for men, is a reinvention of the house’s renowned ‘Obsession’ fragrance, that was released in 1985. It was immortalised by Kate Moss in 1993, in an advertising campaign shot by her then-boyfriend Mario Sorrenti. The immersive event boasted never before seen imagery of Moss, featured on American-style billboards in the house’s gardens. Our sense of direction took us inside towards a classical sculpture, surrounded by contrasting mirrored podiums, and showing off the curving glass bottles of the new fragrance. The composition, conceived by Raf Simons for Calvin Klein and produced by Kennedy, evoked one timeless artwork surrounded by a classic of the future.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Works of art
22 June
Zero + Maria Cornejo has partnered with artist and friend of the brand Elliott Puckette, to create custom fabrics and styles for Pre Fall 2017. Puckette’s delicate paintings feature fluid linear shapes that capture a true sense of energy and movement. They work to complement the simple and elegant designs of Zero + Maria Cornejo’s collection. The bold prints embody loose tailored pieces and speckle across leather shoes. ‘For this collection, it felt like a natural fit to work with Elliott on two silk prints and a custom jacquard,’ says Maria Cornejo. ‘This collaboration was very much born out of our friendship and my deep admiration for her. For me, it was the perfect marriage of both our crafts.’
Pictured, Blodeuwedd, by Elliott Puckette, 2014. Courtesy of the artist and Paul Kasmin Gallery.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Flock factor
21 June
From Jeff Koons’ magenta balloon animals to Elsa Schiaparelli’s creation of shocking pink, we’ve always had a soft spot for creatives that work in bright hues. No surprise then, that we’ve been bowled over by Giuseppe Zanotti's 'Backstage’ capsule collection, featuring shoe designs crafted using innovative fuchsia flocking. Lucky for us, the Italian designer has released an exclusive preview of the collection, which features a striking curved sandal and high-top sneaker, which are both flocked by hand. Similar to airbrushing, each shoe is expertly sprayed to create a bold singular patina, before being left for several days to dry.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
On the map
20 June
‘Working for a company like Bulgari is an illustrator’s dream, especially when asked to interpret something as fun as Roman holidays,’ says the illustrator Lotta Nieminen of her collaboration with the Italian jewellery and luxury house. The Roman label recruited Nieminen to create a modern map of its home city, and her design – one awash with graphic figurative depictions – has been printed onto the house’s signature Shelley scarf in green and orange variations. ‘By Piazza Venezia, you’ll spot a woman reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn driving around on her scooter. There’s also a little scene from the Fellini film 8 1/2 hidden in one of the maps. I like including little details that people might spot if they look at the illustration long enough,’ Nieminen says. The pieces are available to buy at Bulgari’s ‘Vacanze Romane’ pop-up at Selfridge’s London, and we can’t wait to take a closer look.
Writer: Laura Hawkins.
Hot wheels
19 June
For the first time in the history of Colette, a brand will take over the renowned Paris store’s first floor. The installation, developed by Balenciaga, features the work of Norwegian-German artist Yngve Holen and will link the shop windows and upstairs space. Until 25 June, video screens in the window will take customers on a global shopping trip to several cities across the world. The trip further continues on the shop floor where Holen’s dissected Porsche Panamera is exhibited. A plus for all joy riders, to top the experience, a specially developed ‘car interior’ scent will be diffused.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Craft work
16 June
‘We believe in honouring traditional craftsmanship, but create designs for the contemporary man,’ explains Swedish-born Mattis Oppermann of the leather goods label he started with his brother Niklas. ‘The clean, fuss-free aesthetic of our pieces is inspired by the contemporary urban landscape of London and Scandinavia’. Named Carl Friedrik in tribute to the sibling's German grandfather, the label’s briefcases, wallets and folios are assembled in Naples and Florence from vegetable-tanned leather, supplied by the renowned tannery Artigiano del Cuoio. This time-consuming organic tanning method ensures the hide stands the test of time and takes on a rich, seasoned patina with age. The resulting understated yet elegant collection quietly nods to the brothers’ Nordic heritage and love of modernist architecture.
Writer: Shane C Kurup
Rise and shine
15 June
This year sees the 30th anniversary of Italian footwear brand Rucoline, founded by husband and wife Marco Santucci and Daniela Penchini. Renowned for creating sports shoes with sophistication, Rucoline devised the 200 model, the first high-heeled trainer, in 1992. Its original design, conceived by Penchini, features a tactile upper in mesh lace, inspired by the colourful crocheted shoes that Santucci had bought and collected in the mid-1980s while living in the Caribbean town of Boca Chica in the Dominican Republic. To celebrate three triumphant decades, Rucoline has launched a new version of the 200, called the Ellie, which features a gently inclining heel, as well as a new wedge-heeled sneaker, the R-Evolve Fenzy, to represent the brand's ascent.
As originally featured in the July 2017 issue of Wallpaper* (W*220). Writer: Laura Hawkins.
Tropical twist
14 June
Bringing new meaning to the term concrete jungle, recently launched bag brand Montunas has brought the rich colours of Costa Rican nature to practical, city-friendly tote bags. The inspirations behind the designs bridge both Costa Rica and London, the homes of the women behind the brand – Elke Ruge and her daughters Amanda and Elena Hawila. They have lined each of their designs with a print representing the misty rainforests of their beloved tropical abode.
Writer: Lune Kuipers.
Going under
13 June
For the launch of Sunspel’s debut women’s underwear collection, creative director Pascale Pinxt tapped her yoga teacher to model its pieces – imagined in neutral tones of white, light nude, black and grey melange. Comprised of soft and everyday shapes, the pieces draw on the label’s rich archive of comfortable fabrics, like superfine, stretch and cellular cotton. Whether stationary or mid-stretch, Sunspel’s motivational model sports them with natural finesse.
Cult status
12 June
We’re taking comfort in London-based denim label Mih’s latest ‘Cult Jean’. The style blends a vintage-inspired straight leg silhouette – one often created using stiff fabric, with ease-fuelled stretch denim. Using pioneering denim technology, Mih’s ‘straight stretch’ stretches vertically instead of horizontally through the warp of the fabric, ensuring the wearer finds easy movement in a style so often associated with rigidity.
Writer: Laura Hawkins.
Wool power
9 June
We love a performance-focused wardrobe piece, so imagine our elation then, when we were treated to a sneak preview of Woolrich’s S/S 2018 menswear collection, ahead of its Milan presentation next week. The collection not only shows off Woolrich’s second footwear collection- which features trainers with luxurious panels and outdoorsy hiking boot eyelets- it also emphasises its range of spring outerwear, imagined in neutral shades with splashes of yellow and Klein blue.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Nice packet
8 June
Grayson Perry’s new exhibition The Most Popular Art Exhibition Ever! opens today at London’s Serpentine Gallery. Featuring vases, woodcuts and tapestries, the exhibition has been sponsored by British label Mulberry – little wonder, as creative director Johnny Coca admires Perry’s fusion of traditional craftsmanship with modern themes. Lucky then that Perry considers handbags as sculptures, and has designed two bespoke versions of the house’s new Amberley bag. Turning up Wallpaper's heat is this sunshine yellow version in calf leather, featuring interchangeable leather and chain handles.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Surf’s up
7 June
Eco-footwear company Veja has teamed up with the Surfrider Foundation to create a unique sneaker aimed at increasing awareness of ocean pollution. Veja, founded by best friends Francois-Ghislain Morillon and Sébastein Kopp, is dedicated to producing footwear that is 100 per cent transparent in its production process. Its ‘Veja Wata’ sneaker is made from recycled cotton and wild rubber from the Amazon and affirms the brand’s passion for no wastage and its support of the Brazilian community where they are made.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Take the lead
6 June
When naming its label, London-based bag brand Danse Lente looked to the French language for inspiration – its name translates to ‘slow dance’. The label’s debut collection of architecture-inspired pieces reflects a similarly methodic approach to design. We’re making our own moves on this rectangular shoulder bag, crafted in vibrant red calfskin, and with a lengthening strap that can be secured with graphic keyhole like fastenings.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Tool around
5 June
Taking the time to savour the beauty of everyday objects has been the founding principle behind Postalco, the Tokyo-based stationery and accessory line – and 2012 Wallpaper* Handmade collaborator – founded by product designer Mike Abelson. This same thinking dictates the spirit of Tool Roots, an installation Abelson has designed for the windows of Ginza Maison Hermès, which is on view until mid-July. Inspired by three fundamental shapes (the stick, rope and bowl) that combine to form the tools we use on a regular basis, the installation vibrantly presents how objects influence and evolve from each other.
Using the primary colours red, blue and yellow to denote each of the three tropes and a fascinating collection of daily objects and tools, Abelson has created a family tree of sorts, showing how things like brushes, tableware and kitchen tools are connected. Within this matrix, Hermès' own creations, ranging from leather goods, ceramics and scarves, to fragrance, home and fashion accessories, find their place, filling 16 small windows of their own.
Writer: Pei-Ru Keh
Worth one’s salt
2 June
In our May issue, we fell for Greek label Zeus + Dione’s spin on the classic white shirt. Now we’re backing Dimitra Kolotoura and Mareva Grabowski’s collaboration with Salty Bag, on a hands-free beach bag, crafted from surplus silk cuttings and decommissioned sails. The resulting ‘Elani’ and ‘Mini Elani’ styles blend artisanal craftsmanship with sustainable luxury, and are perfect for Hellenic adventures, whether out at sea or on land.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Animal charm
1 June
Holland & Holland’s Stella Tennant and Isabella Cawdor are both drawn to the work of artist and illustrator Hugo Guinness. So much so, that they’ve collaborated with him on an enchanting range of woodland animal and insect print t-shirts, produced in a rustic irregular cotton yarn. We’re feeling a real animal magnetism to these hedgehog and bird illustration t-shirts, available from the brand's flagship Bruton Street store from Monday 5 June. They make perfect outfit elevators whatever neck of the woods you are from.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Hands on
31 May
We’re known sticklers for attention to detail, so when we saw the distinctive illustrated prints in Alexa Chung’s debut collection, we were keen to get our hands on them. For the launch of her anonymous label Alexachung, the model, editor and TV personality has collaborated with her friend and designer Charles Jeffrey Loverboy on a selection of Cheongsam-inspired dresses and skirts. Illustrated with a print which features severed hands and bearded men smoking pipes, they highlight the British eccentricity and humour that Chung has become renowned for.
Writer: Laura Hawkins.
Use your core
30 May
We’re fans of reinvented classics, and Craig Green’s new Core Collection sees the designer delving deeper into the modern man’s wardrobe with a range of subtly reimagined menswear staples. Produced in hard-wearing fabrics from Italian mills, workwear inspired garments like parkas with popper detailed pockets, feature alongside shirts with unusual hood details and string fastenings. The collection inspires those more inclined to a classic wardrobe to experiment with Green’s more subversive style signatures. Alongside reworked archive styles, a newly developed slimmer and more formal cut silhouette also makes its debut.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Feeling sheepish
26 May
For A/W 2017, Max Mara have come over all sheepish, with a capsule collection created using denim wool. The Italian brand have collaborated with The Woolmark Company, purveyors of the finest Australian merino wool to create elegant pieces, including a fluid tunic, wide legged trousers and a fitted jacket, created using a luxurious and wrinkle-free version of dark indigo denim. ‘We’ve worked to the idea of relaxed luxury. The pieces are impeccable because they have been made from Woolmark wool,’ explains Laura Lusuardi, who joined the house in 1964 and has been Max Mara global fashion director since 1978. The brand celebrated the launch of its capsule collection at an event last night in its Old Bond Street boutique in London. 'It’s a way to take something that is supposed to be informal, and to give it a sartorial twist,’ she adds.
The wool denim took six months to develop with Woolmark, and it is remarkably lightweight in construction, allowing for a flowing drape in silhouettes, unseen in traditional cotton denim. ‘Wool is still one of the most versatile fibres,’ explains Fabrizio Servente, the global strategy advisor for The Woolmark Company. ‘We are proud to work with Max Mara because they have a passion for quality. Our mission is to educate the customer about the quality of wool.’ Mission accomplished.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Sailing away
25 May
Given Herno’s history in producing high quality and technologically smart outerwear, it makes sense that Russell Coutts, CEO of the America’s Cup, has chosen Herno Laminar to be the Official Licensee for the 35th edition of the sailing competition. In collaboration with GORE, Herno has produced a range of sportswear that is ready to face the toughest of conditions. We’d be wrapping up in this ultralight gilet. Breathable, windproof and waterproof, it is a triple threat to treacherous conditions. Padded in Herno’s alternative to down, the gilet has a spinal elastic knit feature on the back that further attests to the brand’s intelligent attitude towards design. The 35th America’s Cup kicks off on 27 May.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Blades of glory
24 May
The newest addition to Valentino’s elegant selection of beautiful bags is the Loveblade, an enamelled metal minaudière. Despite its miniature size, the bag has big secrets: its top features a lipstick holder, and tucked inside, a double-sided mirror. We’ve got our eyes on the colourways in black and silver and white and gold, both embellished with the Rome-based brand’s signature studs.
Writer: Angelina Puschkarski
Hide and seek
23 May
Woolrich’s first wool mill may have been located in Pennsylvania, but for its S/S 2017 inspiration, the brand looked a little further afield to Eden, Utah. A region brimming with fishing spots and terrain fit for mountain biking, it’s a destination we’re keen to explore. Should we ever need to seek a hide out there, we’ll be concealing ourselves in Woolrich’s A-line cape, finished in a painterly camouflage print and made in lightweight windproof nylon. We’ll blend in with the rusty tones of the Utah landscape in no time.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Sole mate
22 May
With the addition of new prints and finishing touches such as choosing the colour of the sole, adding your initials, charms or your lucky number, Prada has expanded its Made to Order Décolleté collection. The project gives customers the choice to design their own shoes by choosing from eighteen different styles, eight heel heights and a range of prints and materials. The service, available at Harrods in London, also goes beyond footwear design. It offers customers the opportunity to decorate the accompanying shoe box with either one of the latest Prada prints or a band embellished with a metal plaque.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Building blocks
19 May
Obsessed with the concept of personalisation, accessories label Anya Hindmarch has introduced the most sophisticated concept of pick and mix to its offering. 'Build a Bag' allows customers to customise their own new Bucket Bag style, available in tumbled leather or luxurious natural python. From mink smiley face bag charms, to colourful leather handles, which building blocks will you pick?
Writer: Laura Hawkins.
Logo mania
18 May
Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s creative director's range of artistic references never fails to surprise us. For the launch of the brand’s first capsule collection for Mr Porter, we’re taken in by the illusion of this trompe-l’oeil effect sporty three piece. Seen in Gucci’s S/S 2017 women’s collection, this retro inspired wallpaper print, reproduced across a drawstring bag and zip-up tracksuit, has been created in an exclusive colour way for the site.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
On the ball
17 May
In our March 2017 Style Special (W*216), we got in step with weaving artisans Impagliando, and their oversized woven loafer. Inspired by Fratelli Rossetti’s ‘Brera’ style, the piece formed part of the Italian footwear label’s ‘New Artisans’ project, and was shown in its via Montenapoleone store during last year’s Salone del Mobile. This month, Fratelli Rossetti has taken its project stateside, creating a New York Special Edition men’s sneaker to mark the move, complete with stitching inspired by sports accessories. The brand has collaborated with Leather Head Sports, filling the windows of its Madison Avenue store with balls of different sporting varieties, from basketballs to Leather Head Sports’ first football.
Writer: Jason Hughes
French connection
16 May
Celebrating his love for weekends spent in Marseille and at the seaside, Simon Porte Jacquemus, has launched a new book. Titled Marseille Je T’aime, the book was presented during the city's OpenMyMed Festival, for which the designer also worked on series of exhibitions and a fashion show. The book features the work of 15 photographers and artists, including Ruth van Beek and Willi Dorner, who upon invitation by Jacquemus created work inspired by their vision of the festival’s host city.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Basket case
15 May
For her collaboration with Italian plastic furniture specialists Kartell, accessories designer Paula Cademartori used rubber for the first time. ‘The difference between leather, which I use mainly, and materials like rubber is that it is more manageable and you can physically sense its structure. With rubber, the whole design process is based on virtual 3D design, which I was completely new to.’ We’re holding out for the hand details of Cademartori's ‘Parati’ handbag, crafted from batch dyed techno polymer thermoplastic, in bold summer hues. ‘I am already looking into other interesting materials to work with in the future,’ she adds.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Stripe club
12 May
Piero Righetto and Maria Elena Ghisolfi- founders of activewear label Sàpopa- pay close attention to material composition. Producing its pieces from a unique fabric manufactured in the Veneto region of Italy, this woven material aids blood circulation. We’re making moves on these graphic detail leggings, their go faster stripes pushing us even closer to the finish line.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Made to measure
11 May
LA lifestyle brand 69 US has amped up its credentials even further with its latest customisation service. Now, using a combination of digital 3D and VR printing, customers can personalise their garments with whatever image they desire. Take our May 2017 issue newstand cover (W*218), which has since been printed by the brand.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Mono tone
10 May
As a counterpart to the classic black bag, this season designers are envisaging their offerings in a variety of grey hues. From top to bottom, bag, £1,210, by Tod’s. Bag, £895, by Anya Hindmarch. Bag, price on request, by Fontana Milano 1915.
Fashion: Lune Kuipers. As originally featured in the May 2017 issue of Wallpaper* (W*218)
Catching air
9 May
We’re hung up on an installation of suspended airbags at West Hollywood concept store H Lorenzo. The installation introduces the South Korean designer Kanghyuk Choi, whose work was also featured in W* 214’s Graduate Directory. KANGHYUK’s Collection 1 sees 34 dismantled air bags hung on meat market hooks, suspended alongside transparent garments, created from the same material.
Writer: Lune Kuipers. Courtesy of KANGHYUK x MACHINE-A / SHOWstudio x H. Lorenzo collaboration, in partnership with D /ARK / CONCEPT
Feels like home
8 May
Tucked below a spectrum of pastel-hued houses in Notting Hill, Talitha’s first retail space in London is all about home comforts. Inspired by vibrant bedrooms and living spaces, Kim Hersov and Shon Randhawa, co-founders of the eclectic holiday wear label, worked with interior designer Hubert Zandberg on a store populated with homeware and gifts. From patterned cushions to weaved side tables, each piece is also available to purchase. We can’t wait to play house.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Face value
5 May
Swiss artist couple Pascale Wiedemann and Daniel Mettler have found a way to brighten up our Friday. Lo and behold their vibrant sweatshirts that feature abstracted faces inspired by traditional wooden masks. Hand-sewn and varying in both colour and form the faces will certainly turn any frown upside down.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Fine lines
4 May
For the launch of its new online platform, white-shirt label In-grid applied the same paired back precision of its product to its web design. Created by Each London, its tiled website design features zooming roll over panels that highlight the fluidity and finesse of its shirting , from a V-neck shirt dress with an architectural circular cut out, to its XL sized shirt with a hidden pocket in its seam, crafted using Pin Point cotton, woven in Northern England.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
In the bag
3 May
Making its debut on the Burberry February 2017 catwalk and celebrated in the seasonal campaign, the DK88 bag is named after the brands signature gabardine fabric, and the collection comes in an assortment of styles and sizes. We’re particularly green with envy for this Top Handle style, with an oversize lock and in painterly khaki.
Writer: Jason Hughes
The artful shopper
2 May
With a reverence for tradition and a passion for reinvention, one man brought the world to Victorian London. In 1875, Arthur Lasenby Liberty opened his first shop on Regent Street, cramming it with a dazzling array of oriental objects and curios that had Oscar Wilde, William Morris, Dante Gabriel Rossetti and Whistler queuing to get in. Liberty has been the ultimate destination for the aesthetically curious ever since. This spring the spotlight is on interiors with The Home of the Artistic Shopper, a series of creative events running until June. As well as the unveiling of the Liberty London Home collection, the fourth floor will host Loewe’s THIS IS HOME installation directly from Salone de Mobile. Alongside creative director Jonathan Anderson’s artisanal objects, fifth generation master carver Simon Cartwright will be making wooden mice in the store.
Writer: Dal Chodha
Black box
28 April
The sharp lines and dark look of the latest Saint Laurent minaudière were unmistakably inspired by the house’s signature tuxedo jacket. Made of black mirrored Plexiglass, the Tuxedo Box comes in two styles, offering a finish of either gold or black hardware.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Prize winner
27 April
Designed in 1964 by the Italian graphic artist Francesco Saroglia, the logo of the Woolmark Company is made up of a triangular series of interweaving graphic strands. A nod to its commitment to wool production, Woolmark have turned to the Australian-born, Los Angeles-based multidisciplinary artist Jonathan Zawada to create its trophy for the regional and final events of the 2017/18 International Woolmark Prize. ‘I wanted to reference the overall form of the Woolmark icon as well as its sense of motion and the way it captures the sense of weaving without being too overt,’ Zawada explains of the twisting design, created from sustainable marine debris bakelite which glimmers like marble. Now that’s wool worth.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Weave around
26 April
Inspired by the uniforms used in the Japanese martial arts of judo and kendo, Stockholm-based footwear brand Eytys has updated its signature ‘Mother’ sneaker in woven Sashiko fabric. We're weaving around this unisex style in nautical washed navy.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Small prints
25 April
Even if you do blink, you won’t miss the print saturated window at Bergdorf Goodman – currently installed with the fantastical fruit of La Double J’s newly christened Piccola children’s line. The collection, featuring vibrant vintage printed girl's dresses, has popped up on the retail mecca’s well-heeled third floor, and follows a recent collaboration with the Milanese label Larusmiani. Fans will also be able to peruse La Double J’s table top collection – a line of Italian made plates and linens, cheekily named Housewives.
Writer: Pei-Ru Keh
Fruitful finishes
24 April
Salvatore Ferragamo’s new 'Orange Fiber' capsule collection is created using fabric developed from citrus fruits. The material was developed by Adriana Santanocito and Enrica Arena, two Italian students who began piloting plants in Sicily, and transforming citrus by-products into textiles. Most mouthwatering in the collection is this springtime high waisted skirt, created from Orange Fiber and detailed with abstract Sicilian details, from floating loads to flowers, designed by the architect and designer Mario Trimarchi.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Think inside the box
21 April
Taking inspiration from antique luggage and treasure chests Alexander McQueen’s latest introduction, the 'Box Bag', features shiny metal hardware, from punched metal eyelets to pyramid-like lock clasps. Thanks to its detachable chunky chain straps, its design can be seamlessly transported from day to night.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Drawing attention
20 April
In April 1970, When Japanese designer Kenzo Takada presented his first collection in Paris, his easy ready-to-wear aesthetic, comprised of kimono shapes, colourful prints and ethnic influences, set the world of conservative French couture alight. Documenting this Parisian fashion scene with his glamorous illustrations was Antonio Lopez, who arrived in Paris from New York in 1969, partying with the beach blonde model Donna Jordan and holidaying with Karl Lagerfeld in St Tropez. Kenzo’s Carol Lim and Humberto Leon were invited to visit Lopez’s archive and have reimagined his drawings and photographs in its S/S 2017 women's collection. Making a splash are a series of pencil skirts and drawstring detail tops, which take inspiration from frothy bathing snapshots captured by Lopez.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
First steps
19 April
Fabrizio Viti, shoe director at Louis Vuitton for the last 13 years, launches his own footwear collection this season. bringing a touch of the French fashion house's futurism to his debut range. 'That rawness comes from the work I am doing under Nicolas Ghesquière,' says Viti of his S/S17 showcase, which sports contrasting features, like chunky rubber-look heels and whimsical daisy-chain details. 'I chose to go in a more feminine direction, inspired by 1960s TV shows and films,' he adds. 'I have lots of posters of actresses from that decade in my apartment. That's why I showed my first collection there. It's where the mood, the process and the inspiration are.' Cage boots (left) £980, pumps (right) £630
As originally featured in the April 2017 issue of Wallpaper* (W*217). Photography: Benjamin Schmuck. Writer: Laura Hawkins
Slim pickings
18 April
Handmade in Paris, Lucas de Staël’s weightless, ultra-slim leather glasses are not only bespoke but truly different. When the designer launched his brand in 2012, he set his workshop up in an old printing factory located in Paris 19th arrondissement with the vision to ‘create a lab, a genuine hub for creation and production'. Experimenting with materials, de Staël works with jewellers and artists to develop unique processes and frames: ‘each artisan works with tools he has developed and spends hours crafting a piece, like a jeweller’, he explains.
Blending traditional craftsmanship with research and development, de Staël selects the best French cow leather and vegetal dyes. In collaboration with Mayaro, a Parisian concept store dedicated to contemporary craftsmanship, de Staël has designed ultra-slim 2.6mm bicoloured leather frames with a Norwegian leather interior finish. The designs can be personalised to one’s wish. Pick your colours! Photography: Philippe Lacombe
Writer: Clara Le Fort
Smells like team spirit
13 April
Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte and Coach’s Stuart Vevers have teamed up to create a limited edition capsule collection. A lovechild of the two American brands, it combines the Mulleavy sisters’ romantic aesthetic with Vevers’ addiction to leather. Sweatshirts and tote bags display archive Coach advertisements labeled with the playful slogan ‘This is a Coach Bag’, and the collection is available from today exclusively with Selfridges.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Take it or weave it
12 April
Gabriela Luna and Corina del Pinal established their craftmanship-focused label Luna del Pinal after a trip to Guatemala. The London-based designers who have worked for Gareth Pugh, Christopher Kane, and JW Anderson between them, travelled to Xela to learn the art of backstrap weave, where they fell in love with the beauty of artisanal craft. The brand’s latest collection features high-waisted paper-bag trousers and shirts with grainy striped details and raw edges, sustainably handmade by local artists and craftspeople living in Northern Guatemala.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Paula goes pop
11 April
Open until 16 April, Paula Cademartori’s first pop-up boutique in Milan has been designed by Ferruccio Laviani. The star-patterned carpets and candy-floss pink curtains of the space evoke Cademartori’s colourful and effervescent approach to accessory design, while tubular metal screens and floating shelves house bold limited edition pieces that have been created in celebration of the opening.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Here comes the sun
10 April
A shared passion for fine materials and immaculate craftsmanship has brought together Sunspel and London based eyewear brand Cubitts. The outcome of the collaboration is an exclusive collection of three different classic sunglass designs. Each pair comes with a leather case, a small screwdriver and an illustrated cleaning cloth featuring the work of artist Lucy Dalzell.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Under the hammer
7 April
Andreas Murkudis opened his first eponymous Berlin-based store in 2003, and to coincide with the launch of its new online platform, Murkudis is auctioning 99 pieces from his rare fashion archive, a collection amassed over four decades. Part of the first of four auctions, we’re keen to get our hands on these long A/W 2007 Raf Simons leather gloves, going under the hammer under April 30 alongside artefacts including nineties Helmut Lang show invitations and the third 1988 issue of Comme des Garçons' SIX magazine.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Patch up
6 April
After working on displays for Selfridges, Hostem and Dover Street Market Victoria Andrejeva’s art has now brought her to Hong Kong. Known for her crossover between art and fashion, the founder of Cherevichkiotvichki has worked on a larger than life-size curvy female body sculpture made out of the fabric offcuts from her latest collection. Just like the brand’s clothing, each swatch of the patchwork skin has been dyed in a natural way and hand stitched together. The installation was unveiled during Hong Kong’s Art Basel fair and will be on display at the concept store INK until the end of the month.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Burberry’s Milan moment
5 April
As part of its February 2017 collection, Burberry designed a series of made- to-order couture capes, inspired by the work of British artist Henry Moore. The capes, exquisite in their design, and crafted in delicate materials formed part of Burberry’s ‘Henry Moore: Inspiration & Process’ exhibition at London’s Makers House, and now they are travelling the world in its ‘The Cape Reimagined’ exhibition. Having already made a stop in Seoul, see them in the midst of Salone del Mobile 2017, where the capes are on display at Burberry’s Via Montenapoleone Milan store until Sunday.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Good jeans
4 April
Over a decade ago, Acne Studios’ Jonny Johansson gifted 100 pairs of raw denim jeans to his friends and family. Then a creative collective, working across advertising and graphic design, the limited line marked Acne Studios’ first foray into fashion design. This week marks the relaunch of the Swedish label’s denim line, with a permanent collection of new jean styles for men and women- loose, straight and skinny. ‘Denim is how the brand started and our roots will always be in it,’ Johansson explains. ‘I wanted to purify it and elevate it, reconsidering denim, editing the range and refreshing the pieces. It was important to me that we looked at every single design detail from the beginning, and so I wanted to give the resulting collection a new name – Blå Konst'. Meaning ‘blue art’ in Swedish, the new styles have been captured in a minimalist campaign lensed by Collier Schorr, with dark denim jackets and baggy jeans evoking the codes of American utility wear.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Piece by piece
3 April
In celebration of its tenth anniversary, COS has created a jigsaw-inspired ten piece capsule collection. Emphasising its prowess in pattern-cutting, the garments in COS’ celebratory collection have been pieced together like puzzles, the shape of one piece, be it a kimono-inspired women’s coat or a men’s technical jacket, deciding the other. Cottons and technical polyester make the cut, imagined in COS’ signature neutral colour palette.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Frame of mind
31 March
Italian optical specialist Safilo have announced the winners of its first talent competition, ‘A Forward Vision for Eyewear Heritage’, which offers mentorship to budding optical specialists around the world. We’ve got our eye on Francesco Lazzaro, one of the two winners of the Product School award, selected for the technical artistry he used to create his folding sunglass design, which features elegant circular lenses and forest green frames.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Performance piece
30 March
For its S/S 2017 menswear collection, Fendi collaborated with the British artist John Booth, on a selection of illustrations including abstract faces, cartoonish flowers and colourful ‘F’ logos. To mark Fendi’s new menswear space in Harrods, the brand have teamed up once more with Booth, who has created colourful illustrations for its Basil Street windows, as part of a live performance. For the next four days Booth can also be found personalising unique pieces in store, ranging from keyrings to pochettes.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
See the light
29 March
The window display of Delpozo’s London flagship store on Sloane Street has been brought to life by the flowing sculptural work of installation artist Soo Sunny Park, one of the inspirations behind the brand's S/S 2017 collection. Her 'Unwoven Light' series explores light's infinite potential in a three-dimensional form. Iridescent Plexiglas plates are interwoven to create an organic shape which meanders in a serpent-like movement, reflecting light in a playful manner. Delpozo’s creative director Josep Font echoes the otherworldly nature of Park’s work through his use of metallic decoration and sheer fabrics. The artwork will be available to see at the flagship store until mid-May.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Two good projects
28 March
A two-way collaboration with British design duo Faye and Erica Toogood marks the first of a series of collaborations hosted by FEIT. Tull Price, the brain behind the brand, invited the founders of TOOGOOD to transform the FEIT New York flagship store. The result is a hay bale-inspired display featuring soft and sculptural shapes made of TOOGOOD’s fabrics. In exchange FEIT designed the limited edition Artist Shoe, a capsule collection for TOOGOOD’s Collection 006. Reflecting both brands’ respect for nature, the practical lace-up shoes and boots are handmade from natural artist’s canvas and vegetable-tanned black leather.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Vision-Airs
27 March
This weeks sees Nike celebrate the 30th birthday of its Air Max sneaker. To mark the special occasion NikeLab have collaborated with visionaries from the world of architecture, design, style and art to reimagine the iconic shoe. Fashion designer Riccardo Tisci has reworked the classic Air Max 97 as a graphic mid-top boot in black leather with contrast white tread. The new incarnation taps into Tisci's street style background, alongside his interests in basketball and skateboarding.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Specs appeal
24 March
Launching today, independent eyewear brand Ollie Quinn’s debut range is made up of 50 sunglass and optical styles, each named after an individual who has been integral to the realisation of the label. We’ve got our eyes on the ‘Campbell’, a round-framed style in coastal hues, and the tortoiseshell ‘Felicity,’ crafted in an elegant cat-eye shape.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Optical illusion
23 March
Since its re-launch last year, Warehouse has continued to establish itself as a key and innovative player on the British high street. Inspired by 70s Halston and 60s Op art, Emma Cook’s second collection as design director, has a psychedelic twist. Insouciant wrap dresses are imagined in tangerine orange, while other asymmetric styles feature swirling optical prints. Note the leather bum bag that sits on the waist as a relaxed yet elegant accessory for the city.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Steaming ahead
22 March
Reiss and Steamline continue their luggage collaboration for S/S 2017 with the addition of two new cases. The ‘Picton’ travel set consists of a carry-on suitcase and vanity case, both of which are handcrafted and come in natural linen, and small enough to carry on or stow away for ease of travel. The suitcase boasts buckled black leather straps and comes with a neat clear plastic jacket for protection, while the vanity case has metal latches and a detachable cow leather shoulder strap.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Fiorucci goes pop
21 March
With a pop-up shop in Selfridges, Fiorucci is giving London a preview of what’s to come when it opens its first flagship store in over 20 years in London’s Soho. ‘With a first execution at Selfridges, we wanted to follow Fiorucci’s path into effrontery, by hijacking a museum space into a shopping area,’ explain French design studio Bonsoir Paris who concepted the space. It features cherubs and crumbling ancient pillars, juxtaposed against bubblegum pink fixtures. ‘Transforming iconic symbols from the past into displays was our way to confront two distinct universes that represent the brand's history and its new direction. It is a tongue-in-cheek way to express Fiorucci’s heritage.’
Writer: Lune Kuipers
On the money
20 March
In January, Italian menswear label Billionaire put a gold helicopter on its A/W 2017 catwalk, and its newly relaunched space in Harrods, London is equally ostentatious. Designed by the Milan-based CLS architects, the space strikes gold with coin details that gleam from its walls, floor and light fixtures.. The 140 square metre space maintains even more Wall Street vigour with dark brushed stucco walls and leather upholstered mahogany furnishings, housing pieces in luxurious snakeskin, sequin and velvet.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Power of two
17 March
British menswear designer Lou Dalton has collaborated with Jaeger for a second time on a function focused collection, inspired by the modern adventurer. Bomber jackets, windbreakers, sweaters and t-shirts have been created from high-performance fabrics, including stretch nylon and fine gauge technical merino, curated by Dalton and Jaeger’s head of menswear James Jee.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
In the pink
16 March
Marco De Vincenzo has created costumes for Alfredo Arias’ new theatrical comedy, Madame Pink. Currently showing at the Teatro Argentina in Rome, the unusual drama blends film noir with Broadway, a soundtrack inspired by seventies and eighties America and even a talking pink dog. ‘I got carried away by the plot and let the script evoke images in my mind,’ Vincenzo explains of the eccentric melodrama. ‘When working with a theatrical costume and an actor, there is a continuous exchange of energy – even stronger than the relationship between ourselves and what we wear every day in real life.’ In tune with his own imaginative aesthetic, expect wildly cascading ruffles, intricately detailed leathers, ombre suiting and cartoonish furs.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Rain man
15 March
Scandinavian creativity comes together in a collaboration between Swedish outerwear brand Stutterheim and Danish designer Henrik Vibskov. The designer, known for his use of bold colors and patterns, has created two exclusive graphic patterns that brighten up Stutterheim’s classic raincoat.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
In the frame
14 March
Consisting of sunglasses and optical frames, Fendi launches its first men’s eyewear collection for S/S 2017 . The collection plays with classic shapes from square to round retro-inspired styles, with distinct details such as stitch lines in metal and coloured stripes playfully racing around edges. Highlights include the ‘Urban’ range that blends metal and acetate in a geometric frame and the ‘Qbic’ made from molded leather.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Ride the wave
13 March
‘The project came about over Instagram,’ explains the LA-based artist Alex Israel of his new collaboration with swimwear brand Vilebrequin. ‘I was editing my teen surf movie, SPF 18 at the time, and remembered that we had dressed one of the film’s young actors in Vilebrequin shorts, so the brand was already part of my vocabulary.’ Israel’s playful swim short design features the crest of a wave, repeated in a colourful tile print, finished with a deep blue drawstring tie. 'I used a wave graphic as the basis for my pattern,' he adds. 'One that I had originally drawn in homage to Hokusai and Ken Price for an animated dream sequence in the movie.' Surf’s up!
Writer: Laura Hawkins
All rise
10 March
A new book surveying 50 of London’s brightest designers is published by Phaidon this month. The hefty London Uprising scours the studios of Jonathan Anderson, Simone Rocha, Duro Olowu, Christopher Kane et al, unpicking what lead to the rebirth of London’s fashion scene in the early noughts. The project is the brainchild of Lebanese-born Tania Fares – who co-founded the BFC Fashion Trust in 2013 – and Sarah Mower BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent. ‘I spent two years researching books and couldn’t find anything that talked about the amazing talents working in London right now,’ Fares says. ‘I wanted to create a record of this moment for us to look at in years to come.’
Writer: Dal Chodha
The one
9 March
With her online boutique launching today, swimwear designer Alexandra Miro creates minimal swimwear designs that are both elegant and alluring. On the quest to create the perfect one piece, Miro’s creations come in a variety of shapes, featuring low sweeping backs, cut out waists and plunging necklines. With a background in lingerie, Miro tested her debut designs on a variety of body types, and each one is finished with detailing that flatters the body, like narrowing white trimming, sweeping backs and carefully placed silver embellishments.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
New legacy
8 March
For spring, Vans has teamed up with Stockholm-based menswear brand, Our Legacy to create a capsule collection of footwear and apparel. The iconic Vans’ skate shoe gets a makeover in bold orange nylon with a think rubber upper, while classic hoodies and sweatshirts come oversized with subtle graphic prints.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Family affair
7 March
Italian based Asciari Milano is a small family company run by mother Martha and her two children Pietro and Federica. Up until 3 years ago all three were in different professions when they decided to change careers and create something together. All made in-house in the Sicily based ateliers, the understated luxury garments are made using the finest materials from Loro Piana cashmeres to Fox Brothers wool.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Tuscan leather
6 March
Luxurious leather label Il Bisonte was founded in the early 1970’s, and its unlined and slouchy designs created in Tuscan vacchetta leather, have outlived fleeting trends. Now the label has recruited the renowned designer Emma Hill as consultant creative director, on a timeless eight-piece capsule collection. In autumnal shades and with metallic flourishes, the designs also feature distinctive clasped pockets, inspired by the aprons worn by artisans in Il Bisonte’s workshops.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
French fling
3 March
Maria Grazia Chiuri may be showing her second ready-to-wear collection for Christian Dior today, but to mark the launch of her S/S 2017 debut, the house is hosting pop-up shops at a variety of its concept stores, from Dubai to Japan, stocking her most standout designs. At its 44 Avenue Montaigne flagship in Paris, the pop-up boasts a ‘Should love last’ neon artwork by Tracey Emin, in her characteristic handwriting.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Soft touch
2 March
Munich-based label Allude brings elegant silhouettes and unconventional finishes to the world of cashmere. Chunky knitted sweaters, eyelet hoodies and wafer-thin scarves are just some of the items in the S/S 2017 collection that play with texture and density. The ingenuity of these structures is emphasised through a minimal colour palette of navy, white and beige.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Plastic fantastic
1 March
Always at the cutting edge of fabric development and garment construction, CP Company has launched its ‘P.Lastic’ collection. The new line of jackets are made from stretchable nylon jersey, welded together with micro thermo taping and entirely eliminating the use of needle and thread. The technology has been employed in the purest and most simple fashion possible, letting the technology guide the final form of the jackets, so that they appear devoid of surplus details and focus on function.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Good jeans
28 February
Last November Mih launched its first online custom denim service, and following this bespoke project, the brand has collaborated with four creative women who have each designed a made-to-order pre-customized garment. Argentina-born New York-based artist Conie Vallese has created an embroidery floral motif, with two blooms poking from the neck of a spherical vase. ‘I was intrigued to see how my art could be interpreted into a medium like denim, she says. ‘The idea of being able to translate my art into something personal like jeans, which I wear every day, was exciting.’
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Founding figure
27 February
First designed in 1958, Delvaux’s Brilliant bag features a horseshoe shaped buckle that resembles the letter ‘D’. Now the Brussels-based brand has added further focus to its illustrious leather heritage, merging abstract alphabet letters with numbers. Its chic signature silhouette has been imagined in green vinyl and embellished with the figure '1829', Delvaux’s founding year. Emphasising its excellence in innovative fabrications and not just leather, the colours in the date motif were created using an micro-injection machine, typically used in the design of performance wear.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Rock and whirl
24 February
Jess Morris and Tim Watkins, co-founders of vintage-inspired brand Rockins have gained attention for their rock and roll worthy denim and elegant bias-cut scarves. With patterns designed by Watkins himself, also an illustrator who worked with the band Gorillaz, this delicate feather detail scarf is perfect for any peacocks.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Straight laced
23 February
Eytys’ grown-up sibling of its signature platform trainer is an elegant laced dress shoe. Made in fine Polido leather the shoe comes in three styles with a glossy finish: black, chestnut and the rebellious MX which carries riveted reinforcements. Finished with a handmade leather-welted sole, the shoe is a tasteful alternative for those looking for something different.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Slow and steady
22 February
Slowear open their second London store this week, situated on London’s bustling Marylebone High Street. The space boasts a bookshelf that runs the entire length of the store, and custom designed furniture in burnished brass and glass, inspired by Jean Prouvé and Charlotte Perriand. It also features Italian and Scandinavian designed vintage items from the forties and fifties. The store will stock all of the Slowear’s specialist brands: Incotex for trousers, Zanone for knitwear, Montedoro for outerwear and accessories and Glanshirt for shirts.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Wendel in the wind
21 February
This month marks the launch of artist and textile designer Olivia Wendel’s debut scarf collection. Wendel, known for her collaborations with Proenza Schouler and Suno, created a collection that explores movement and the freedom of existing without societal expectations.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Beams of brilliance
20 February
Launched in 1976 in Harajuku, Tokyo, department store Beams propelled the district into style destination status. This week, Rizzoli helps celebrate the brand’s stratospheric rise to success with a photo book that charts its history. Interviews with collaborators including Sofia Coppola and Sacai’s Chitose Abe, feature in the tome, alongside an advertisement by the illustrator Hiroshi Nagai, who reimagined the Japanese store in a poolside American setting. A capsule collection with Goodhood store in London also serves to honour Beams’ singular eye for style.
Writer: Sophie Bew
Super women
17 February
Tatiana Kovylina, model, mother and founder of London's newest luxury activewear label Silou, doesn't believe in super foods or dictatorial fitness regimes. Instead, she believes in 'moving for living and not the other way around'. Each piece in her debut S/S 2017 collection breathes life into this ethos, through comfortable, quality fabrics that are structurally panelled to flatter any body shape. In a clever twist, each piece is named after a powerful woman ('from grandmothers to goddesses'). Pair the 'Fonda' leotard with a slouchy 'Gaia' sweatshirt and some high waisted 'Gisele' leggings, and you've got yourself the superwoman costume of today.
Writer: Elly Parsons
Window-shopping
16 February
London-based Greek-born designer Fotis Evans has had a long relationship with Hermès ever since the French luxury house headhunted him to create the window displays for its New York flagship store aged just 25. Some years later he’s back for a follow up act, and Evan’s new sculptural installations are once again turning heads on Madison Avenue.
‘The idea was to depict an architectural and design world, fed through the historical feed of the creative universe that is archived online today,’ Evans explains. To achieve this he has reimagined dadaist and surrealist techniques, such as bulletism and collage, through a series of furniture pieces, made using aged and stained materials or cut-out architectural volumes of bricks, concrete, brass beams, rusted steel, travertine, and blackened iron.
‘I have always worked with the idea of deconstructing already existing sets or objects and reimagining them in my own contemporary universe,’ says Evans. ‘Throughout the history of Hermès a lot of design details are transferred from one metier to another, like the equestrian references of saddle straps across all its products. So I decided to place the world of Hermès in a world of collage.’
Writer: Henrietta Thompson
Back to square one
15 February
Sergio Rossi have looked back to the square lined shoe designs in its archive for its S/S 2017 collection. Reinterpreting silhouettes first created in the nineties, the collection includes part-moccasin part-slipper flats that boast every day slip-on appeal, finished in geometric stripes and with striking metal hardware.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
The whole picture
14 February
The longstanding collaboration between Margaret Howell and photographer Alasdair McLellan is being celebrated in an exhibition coinciding with London Fashion Week. Shot in locations around Britain, the images on display from 17 February to 19 March at the brand’s Wigmore Street location were carefully chosen by the photographer himself, and will include a selection of previously unseen images.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
La dolce vita
13 February
Italian menswear label Caruso has released the last instalment of its Good Italian short film series. In The Good Italian III: The Magic of Naples Giancarlo Giannini reprises his role as the Prince of Soragna in order to help his friend, the Italian tenor Vittorio Grigólo, learn how to sing a perfect version of O Paese d'o Sole. Filled with beautiful shots of Neapolitan scenery, and even more beautiful shots of exquisite Italian tailoring, this film is sure to make viewers everywhere feel like living La Dolce Vita.
Writer: Mary Cleary
Field appeal
10 February
Born and bred in Budapest, womenswear label ÀERON impressed last season with its unfinished hems, chunky knits and elegantly minimal tailoring. This week, founder Eszter Áron and CEO Vivien Laszloffy launch their S/S 2017 collection, which has been considerably snipped, tightened and pulled taught. Expect boxy, colour-blocked leather jackets paired with wide pinstripe slacks, and duo-tone suede slippers which peep out from underneath wide, asymmetric skirts. Alongside this renewed structural focus, Aeron has maintained its signature emphasis on material comfort and playful sensuality.
Writer: Elly Parsons
Earn your stripes
9 February
In 1948, Ottavio Missoni not only ran in the Olympic Games, but also designed lightweight knitted tracksuits for the Italian team. A label associated with sportswear since its inception, Missoni has now collaborated with My Theresa on a range of yoga-inspired activewear designed by Angela Missoni, daughter of founders Ottavio and Rosita, and the label’s current creative director. Created in its signature chevron stripe, the pieces were shot inside Rosita’s Sumirago villa, a home bursting with archive Missoni fabrics and furnishings.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Feather light
8 February
Canada Goose provides the ultimate cover-ups for cold climates, but for S/S 2017 the label has explored new terrains, seamlessly bridging the gap between snow-capped mountains and sprawling city streets. Its new collection of functional feather-light pieces includes lightweight quilted sweaters and hoodies in super soft fabrics, while four new down-filled jackets merge apparel with tailoring.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Here comes the sun
7 February
The launch of its first collection of sunglasses only seemed like the logical next step for the summer brand Vilebrequin. Partnering with German lens manufacturer Carl Zeiss, the 24-piece collection contains a broad selection of shapes, from the classic aviator to racing influenced metal frames, each to match a different type of holiday.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Raw talent
6 February
Last year, G Star Raw celebrated the 20th anniversary of its revolutionary Elwood jean, the world’s first 3D-denim design. In his new role as head of imagination at the Amsterdam-based label, Pharrell Williams has recast the style in 25 distinctive prints. Launching today at Dover Street Market, the patterns include stripes, checks and tartans.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Bucket list
3 February
Ally Capellino has collaborated with Studio Nicholson on a relaxed bucket bag crafted from supple Spanish hide. Designed in elegant navy, the unlined finish of the Piero design emphasises the luxurious suede reverse of its leather, and is finished with the subtly embossed initials of both labels.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Up and Adam
2 February
New York-based designer Adam Lippes has branched out into menswear with a debut capsule collection for matchesfashion.com. Updating the modern man’s wardrobe in 16 easy pieces, shirting comes in crisp cotton with a longer tunic version adding an unexpected twist, while classic crew neck jumpers come in super fine merino wool. Chinos and board shorts, both icons of American off-duty dressing complete the look.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Talking shop
1 February
Former B Store directors Matthew Murphy and Kirk Beattie founded the London-based boutique Other / shop in 2012. Famed for launching brands including Craig Green, Roksanda and Lemaire, Murphy and Beattie are celebrating their 15th year working together, and relocating from Kingly to Berwick Street. Boasting exclusives with Studio Nicholson and Stephan Schneider, the new location also stocks its eponymous Other label, produced through small manufacturers using British mills.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Photo opportunity
31 January
In her distinctive portrayal of femininity, the American photographer Francesca Woodman captured images of nude women with blurred proportions and obscured faces. Inspired by Woodman’s thoughtful compositions, Eudon Choi’s S/S 2017 collection considers notions of femininity using deconstructed silhouettes that tie, ruche and flare, and abstract prints that echo Woodman’s own wardrobe.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Giuseppe from the block
30 January
Longtime admirers of each other’s work and style, Jennifer Lopez and Giuseppe Zanotti have worked together on a new capsule footwear collection. Evoking the signature styles of the Italian shoe designer, the pieces come in a modern palette of cool greys and warm taupes, and have just the right amount of sparkle.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Screen time
27 January
On display at Joyce Gallery in Paris until 31 January, 'Kuki de Salvertes: Life in Fashion' chronicles the career highs of the esteemed co-founder of the PR agency Totem Fashion. Renowned for launching the careers of designers including Raf Simons, Haider Ackermann and Walter Van Beirendonck, the exhibition features snapshots of Salvertes’ personal memories, with runway shows played on a series of television screens, and collections of photographs collaged onto mood boards.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Gloves up
26 January
French brand Aristide breathe new life into traditional leather glove designs. The playful yet elegant creations maintain the right balance between eccentricity and class, re-working traditional shapes with the addition of detailing such as red nails, pop-art lips and large bows.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Keep on running
25 January
NikeLab and Stone Island have teamed up to create a unique version of the ‘Sock Dart’ sneaker. Seamlessly moulding form and function, the mid-cut sneaker is the result of new fabric developments by Stone Island and Nike’s footwear know-how and design expertise. The outcome is a high shine elasticated silicone print upper that adds both structure and protection making the sneaker the perfect step between track and the street.
Writer: Jason Hughes
Dutch master
24 January
Form and colour play a central role in Marni’s latest collaboration with Ruth van Beek. The Dutch artist primarily works in collage form, drawing from her ever-evolving personal archive of photographic material. The illustrations created for this women’s mini-collection brighten up poplin shirts, anoraks and the brand’s signature PVC shopping bag.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Sporting lines
23 January
Streamlined shapes and nineties-inspired slogan details make-up Paco Rabanne’s new BODYLINE collection. Its racer-backed and cropped styles have also been reimagined in energetic Greek blue, a more summer-inspired take on sportswear.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Flying the flag
20 January
In celebration of its 40th birthday, MCM has teamed up with Christopher Raeburn to create a collection that redefines travel for modern nomads. Graphic prints embody classic silhouettes and use a fresh colour palette inspired by the Bavarian flag, honouring Munich, the motherland of MCM.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Perugia-based perfection
19 January
From her peaceful studio in Perugia, Italian designer Sara Lanzi offsets pieces crafted in exquisitely rough textures, against more feminine flourishes, from pleated nipped-in waists, to transparent lace. Lanzi’s scalloped finishes are also evoked in her newly created curved timber installation space at Dover Street Market in London.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
In the round
18 January
Vanessa Seward has enlisted the artist and musician Jason Glasser to hand-paint prismatic details onto her concentrically circled wicker bags. The pop art-inspired arcs of colour bring a fanciful flourish to the weaved basket designs.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Mongolian marvel
17 January
Founded in 1918, luxurious knitwear label Le Kasha once provided cashmere to haute-couture houses like Lanvin and Jean Patou. Mali Marciano, the brand’s current creative director, focuses on beautiful garments for travel in her modern interpretation of the house. Her slip-on pumps and sweaters are crafted from cashmere fibre, sourced from the Alashan and Arbus regions of Inner Mongolia.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Slim sophistication
16 January
This month marks the launch of Havaianas new Origine Slim espadrille. Especially designed for women, the slimmer style has a lower cut and comes with an elegant detachable ribbon in a matching colour.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Korean handcraft
13 January
Yuul Yie, the Korean designer who collaborated with Rejina Pyo on her range of sculptural and eyelet detail footwear, handcrafts her made to order shoe designs over a process of ten days. Yie’s own imaginative creations feature colour blocked heels and pearl and metal hardware, a modern detail she has translated into her debut collection of handbags.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Spanish surrealism
12 January
Loewe already has an accessories collection with the textile designer John Allen under its belt, and now the Spanish brand has collaborated with the Madrid-based photographer Ouka Leele. His Hairdresser series features black and white photographs over-painted with colourful watercolours, and these surreal portrayals feature on Loewe’s bag designs, and are also on display at its Madrid store.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Outer limits
11 January
Woolrich has turned to the aesthetics of the Arctic for its debut footwear range. Inspired by the garments of intrepid outdoor explorers, the Hiker Boot boasts a sturdy carrarmato sole created by mountain footwear specialist Vibram, and is perfect for adventuring in the city or on tougher terrain.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Double celebration
10 January
In honour of the brand’s 50th anniversary and the 15th anniversary of its creative director Tomas Maier, Bottega Veneta has launched a limited edition collection of women’s sunglasses called BV15. Highlighting the house’s iconic intrecciato weave, each pair features a hand-woven motif, and are finished in three different luxurious metals.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Material girl
9 January
Opening today at Selfridges, its Material World initiative honours eight young designers whose innovative designs are both ethical and stylish. Scottish designer, Samantha McCoach’s Le Kilt brand uses 100% British wool made by age-old Scottish techniques, to create traditional designs with a modern twist.
Writer: Rosanna Bruce
Perfect knit
6 January
London-based knitwear designer Helen Lawrence has collaborated with the renowned boutique Browns on her debut capsule menswear collection. Lauded for her layered and textured pieces, she has created nine jumpers, imagined in earthy tones and with retro stripes. The designs feature unusual cut-outs, and were all produced in the United Kingdom.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Dry spell
5 January
With the launch of its first range of accessories, Swedish outerwear brand Stutterheim will protect both you and your laptop from the rain this season. The collection, which includes a backpack and carry-all tote are all crafted in the brand’s signature rubberized cotton and come in a traditional black and navy colourway.
Writer: Lune Kuipers
Think piece
3 January
Frankfurt based leather specialist TSATSAS has reinterpreted its signature monochromatic accessories in intricately panelled gray and navy leather. The precisely cut contrasting panels emphasise the label’s interest in the interplay of individual shapes, with the one-off designs revealing instead of concealing the cuts used to create the handcrafted pieces.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Pillow talk
4 January
Bedtime just got bolder thanks to design-led sleep brand Simba’s new range of screen-printed mattresses. Created in collaboration with four contemporary artists, the limited edition collection features technicolour graphics by print extraordinaire Camille Walala and the reclining female figurations of the painter Natasha Law.
Writer: Jason Hughes
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Olfactory Art Keller: the New York gallery exhibiting the smell of vintage perfume, blossoming lilacs and last night’s shameOlfactory Art Keller is a Manhattan-based gallery space dedicated to exhibiting scent as art. Founder Dr Andreas Keller speaks with Lara Johnson-Wheeler about the project, which doesn’t shy away from the ‘unpleasant’
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Explore a barn conversion with a difference on the Isle of WightGianni Botsford Architects' barn conversion transforms two old farm buildings into an atmospheric residence and artistic retreat, The Old Byre
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Audi launches AUDI, a China-only sub-brand, with a handsome new EV conceptThe AUDI E previews a new range of China-specific electric vehicles from the German carmaker’s new local sub-brand
