Sharp churn: why butter is becoming more than just a support act

Butter is having its moment again. Chefs and artisan dairies are churning out tangy, tasty slow butter that is no mere sandwich spread, but rather the main event.
There are two distinct strands to this big fat revival. The first is ‘cultured’, ‘fermented’ or ‘European’ butter; the other is the rise of the flavoured butter as a signature accompaniment to the bread on your table. Seaweed, urchin, anchovy: intense umami is the recurring theme in many additions, but it’s not the only way. This summer, Jean-Yves Bordier, France’s most esteemed butter maker, sold a seasonal raspberry butter from his Brittany dairy.
But in New York, where restaurants are spearheading the new era of ‘cultured’ butter (going back to the natural bacteria with which pre-industrial butter was made), many purists believe nothing more than salt should be allowed to interfere with the sweet, sharp taste of the real thing.
As originally featured in the October 2015 issue of Wallpaper* (*199)
INFORMATION
For more information, visit Jean-Yves Bordier’s website
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Patek Philippe brings 15 new timepieces to Watches and Wonders 2025
The Swiss manufacturer showcases its intricate complications and elegant designs at the annual trade show with a suite of new models
By Anna Solomon Published
-
Watches & Wonders 2025: preview Richemont’s latest innovations, on show at the Geneva watch fair
Discover eight enticing timepieces from the luxury group, showcased this week at the Geneva fair
By Simon Mills Published
-
Masters of midcentury modern design and their creations spotlighted in new book
‘Mid-Century Modern Designers’ is a new book from Phaidon celebrating those who shaped the period and their notable creations, from furniture to objects
By Tianna Williams Published