Chef Christopher Haatuft conjures up a gastronomic picture of Norway for our Scandinavian retreat

 Atelier Oslo's Cabin
We visited Atelier Oslo's Cabin at Norderhov, Norway, to shoot an entertaining story for our December issue (W* 189), nestled in Krokskogen forest.
(Image credit: Benjamin Kempton)

or our December entertaining story ’Norse Power’, we hightailed it to Hønefoss for a celebration of Norway’s culinary renaissance. At an Atelier Oslo-designed cabin in Norderhov - its interiors styled by Wallpaper* veterans Benjamin Kempton and Melina Keays - we enlisted Bergen chef Christopher Haatuft to conjure up a gastronomic picture of this Scandinavian nation.

After stints at many restaurants worldwide, including Blue Hill at Stone Barns and Per Se in New York, Haatuft has now settled back in his hometown at the restaurant Lysverket, where he’s revolutionised traditional Norwegian cuisine and pioneered a new incarnation some call ’Neo-Fjordic’. Using his expertise procuring the freshest ingredients, Haatuft tracked down the sea urchins for our shoot from northern Norway master diver Roderick Sloan. Haatuft married this local ingredient with a smoked-milk pudding and nasturtium purée to form a deliciously modern dish.

Among all the truly impressive gestures were some age-old Norweigian specialties, like pinnekjøtt (cured lamb ribs), which he designed with Wallpaper*-sanctioned clean glazing and adorned with a traditional garnish of rutabaga purée. From the fishing district of Lofoten he sourced aged salt cod, cured for more than two years, and prepared it three ways. Even the ice cream was impressive, its milk and cream taken from the same breed of cow and paired with Scandinavian brown-cheese caramel.

Haatuft’s passion for Norway’s culinary life continues to resonate in his new project, a dinner party series called ’Friends of Lysverket’. The events invite industry professionals, from historians to designers, to fully experience Lysvertket’s authentic Noweigian food culture. Haatuft takes guests to regional restaurants, leads them on foraging expeditions from mountain to the sea and cooks the ingredients for them afterwards. Lysvertket takes fine hospitality to a unique new level and puts Bergen on the international foodie map.

Bergen chef Christopher Haatuft

Bergen chef Christopher Haatuft, pictured here putting the finishing touches on his smoked wild salmon canapé, was enlisted to conjure up a gastronomic picture of the Scandinavian nation.

(Image credit: Benjamin Kempton)

Cow ice cream

Left: a picture perfect serving of single cow ice cream with cheese caramel and apple is ready to be shot. Right: Haatuft puts us in his shoes as he sautées mushrooms against the striking backdrop of the surrounding forest.

(Image credit: Christopher Haatuft)

The ingredients

The ingredients to create an inviting table display are laid out in preparation.

(Image credit: Benjamin Kempton)

Haatuft's canapés

Although each dish had its own legs to stand on, all hands were on deck to prepare Haatuft's canapés.

(Image credit: Benjamin Kempton)

Haatuft melts suga

Haatuft melts sugar and butter to make his delectable brown cheese caramel. 

(Image credit: Benjamin Kempton)

Oyster tartare

From top: cured lamb draped over juniper branch, smoked wild salmon and reindeer and oyster tartare.

(Image credit: Benjamin Kempton)

Norse Power

Our December issue's entertaining story, 'Norse Power', was masterminded by Wallpaper* veterans Benjamin Kempton and Melina Keays, with an exquisite menu by Haatuft.

(Image credit: Ester Grass Vergara)

Norweigian specialties

A spread from the story features age-old Norweigian specialties, like pinnekjøtt (cured lamb ribs), which he designed with Wallpaper*-sanctioned clean glazing and adorned with a traditional garnish of rutabaga purée.

(Image credit: Ester Grass Vergara)

Haatuft

After stints at many restaurants worldwide, including Alinea in Chicago and Le Chateaubriand in Paris, Haatuft has now settled back in his hometown at the restaurant Lysverket (pictured). 

(Image credit: Line Thit Klein)

Norwegian cuisine

At the Bergen locale, Haatuft has revolutionised traditional Norwegian cuisine and pioneered a new incarnation some call 'Neo-Fjordic'. 

(Image credit: Line Thit Klein)
TOPICS

Sujata Burman is a writer and editor based in London, specialising in design and culture. She was Digital Design Editor at Wallpaper* before moving to her current role of Head of Content at London Design Festival and London Design Biennale where she is expanding the content offering of the showcases. Over the past decade, Sujata has written for global design and culture publications, and has been a speaker, moderator and judge for institutions and brands including RIBA, D&AD, Design Museum and Design Miami/. In 2019, she co-authored her first book, An Opinionated Guide to London Architecture, published by Hoxton Mini Press, which was driven by her aim to make the fields of design and architecture accessible to wider audiences. 

Read more
we are ona
Is this the future of fine dining? Culinary creative studio We Are Ona offers food for thought
artfarm manuela new york restaurant
New York restaurant Manuela masters the art of contemporary dining
food sculpture
Surreal suppers: the artists playing with their food
 Furu
‘Close to solitude, but with a neighbour’: Furu’s cabins in the woods are a tranquil escape
Finlandia Hall Bistro by Fyra with moody interiors
Finlandia Hall bistro blends culinary indulgence with reborn modernism
Wallpaper picks of the week
Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors' picks of the week
Latest in Food & Drink
Irish whiskey Bushmills' distillery
The potted history of Irish whiskey, and the best examples to drink now
Brasserie Emil Paris
Where fashion editors eat and drink during Paris Fashion Week
Moët x PW Limited Edition
Pharrell Williams and Moët & Chandon reimagine birthday celebrations
Neil Ridley
How to be a crisp sommelier: Neil Ridley on ‘bringing fun back into food and drink’
Harrison Ford wearing a kilt
Raider of the lost cask: Harrison Ford dons a kilt for new collaboration with Glenmorangie whisky
Courtesy Glenfiddich x Aston Martin Formula One collaboration: car at distillery
Glenfiddich 1959 honours a new partnership with Aston Martin Formula One Team
Latest in Feature
lean lui guide to hong kong
A local’s guide to Hong Kong, by photographer Lean Lui
Perfume Genius Glory album artwork
Inside the visual universe of Perfume Genius
art works
Don’t miss these five artists at Art Basel Hong Kong
best hotels hong kong
Where to stay in Hong Kong
jewellery
Bold colours and tactile textures: inside Bottega Veneta's second fine jewellery drop
waiheke island new zealand guide
Waiheke Island is a must-visit for oenophiles and aesthetes alike