Matt Abergel has always loved chicken. The Vancouverite skateboarder-turned ‘anti-cool’ co-founder of Yardbird (Hong Kong’s hottest chicken joint) has an almost spiritual connection with the humble bird, stemming from his early years. ‘Roasted Cornish hens by my Bubby (Yiddish for grandmother), braised by my Safta (Hebrew for grandmother), fried at the St Louis Hotel, rotisseried at Swiss Chalet, in nugget form by you-know-who,’ he’s a chef obsessed. A new cookbook published by Phaidon documents Abergel’s rise to cross-continental finger-lickin’ fame, and treats us to behind-the-scenes workings, recipes and charcoal cookery tricks.
The tome is a sensory joy. Complete with functional, graphic depictions of butchery, alongside elegant food photography of Yardbird’s modern classics, and notes from the ‘under-designed’ restaurant interiors, we discover hidden depths to the Yakitori cookery technique Abergel specialises in.
Skewering, from Chicken and Charcoal, published by Phaidon
Synonymous with skewered chicken, Yakitori is a surprisingly delicate Japanese barbeque style that allows the chef much more precision that other popular methods. And Abergel is a stickler for detail, even down to the bespoke, square bamboo skewers known as kaku kushi, chosen for their stability on the grill. They lance locally sourced, triple-yellow chicken ventricles, gizzards, hearts and livers, seasoned with salted olive oil and garlic sake, then dunked in sesame, miso and pine nut sauce, mired with umami. Seared Yellowtail salad refreshes with zingy yuzu skin, while fluffy milk bread soaks up multiple Yoichi Highballs.
The equally flavourful graphic identity is the work of longtime Yardbird collaborator (and fellow skateboard enthusiast) Evan Hecox. His understated, tattoo-like sketches and diagrams are imbued with youth-cultural motifs, and his collages of Hong Kong help to make Chicken and Charcoal more than just a recipe book, but a snapshot of a culinary moment, that defies cultures, backgrounds and tastes. We challenge you not to be delighted.
INFORMATION
Chicken and Charcoal, by Matt Abergel. For more information, visit the Phaidon website
ADDRESS
Yardbird
154-158 Wing Lok Street
Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
-
10 books culture editor Hannah Silver recommends this winterLacking inspiration over what to read next? Wallpaper* culture editor, Hannah Silver, shares her favourite books
-
Midtown Manhattan restaurant Ánimo! takes its cues from Mexican morning ritualsDesigner Jordana Maisie creates a minimalistic yet referential setting for Ánimo!
-
First look: Leica Cine Play 1 brings premium style and tech to the world of home cinemaLeica compresses its meticulous optic know-how into the ultra-compact Cine Play 1 4K projector
-
'Moroseta Kitchen' is a new recipe book offering a glimpse into the Puglian countryside'Moroseta Kitchen - A Window Into The Puglian Countryside' by Giorgia Eugenia Goggi is based on the essence of eating in Italy, rooted in farm to table seasonal recipes
-
Elle Fanning and Sofia Coppola unite on a Japanese craft gin inspired by the seasonsElle Fanning and Sofia Coppola collaborate on a campaign for The House of Suntory’s Roku Gin – a seasonal blend inspired by Japan’s floral botanicals
-
30 years of Nobu: chef Nobu Matsuhisa on the trials and tribulations of a culinary empireNobu celebrates 30 years of its revolutionary Japanese and Peruvian cuisine. We speak with co-founder and chef Nobuyuki ‘Nobu’ Matsuhisa on setbacks, special guests and his love for painting
-
Kioku is a spectacular new Japanese restaurant at The OWO, LondonAt The OWO’s Kioku by Endo, James Bond vibes meet Japanese dining and spectacular London views
-
‘Bethlehem’ is a new recipe book celebrating Palestinian food‘Bethlehem: A Celebration of Palestinian Food’ is a recipe book by Fadi Kattan that celebrates culinary tradition and explores untold stories
-
Spectacular spirits for the season of entertainingOur spirits writer Neil Ridley looks back at some of the year’s most spectacular spirits releases – spanning whisky, cognac, rum and tequila – as thoughts turn to gifting and celebrating
-
Ardray whisky reinterprets Scottish traditions with a Japanese approachArdray whisky is the result of an exciting and groundbreaking collaboration between Scottish and Japanese whisky makers that presents new perspectives on a long-lasting tradition
-
Humo, a new Mayfair restaurant, revolutionises wood-fired cookingMayfair restaurant Humo experiments with different types of wood to create unique and delicious flavours
