Book: A Shell Eye On England

The last Shell Guide to the counties of England, Wales and the west of Scotland was published 25 years ago, but these slim, sometimes rather dotty books remain easily the best, most engaging and most nearly comprehensive guides to the country we have, despite a very crowded field. First launched in 1934, at a time when car ownership was finally becoming affordable to the massed middle classes, they were an early example of enlightened commercial sponsorship, encouraging drivers to explore England's highways and byways (and to refuel at Shell petrol stations in the process).
But their real success, and their occasionally eccentric character, was thanks to two artists: the architectural critic (and poet-laureate to be) John Betjeman, who commissioned his posh chums to write the early volumes; and the painter John Piper, who took over as general editor after Betjeman's resignation in 1967.
The Shell guides were Betjeman's idea in the first place, and it's interesting to see how his influence on the gloriously imaginative early guides to Cornwall, Wiltshire and Dorset was gradually supplanted by the more sensible - and more commercial - influence of John Piper in later editions. In the end, no doubt thanks to their balancing interests (Piper's especially in atmospheric black-and-white photography), the guides reached their final form: quirky, entertaining, hugely informative and often passionately written guides to almost every village and town and city in England and Wales.
They're most often compared to Pevsner's architectural guides to Britain, but while Pevsner's methodical approach meant that, in the end, his guides were more comprehensive (the Shell guides never got round to Yorkshire, Lancashire or the eastern half of Scotland, for example), his narrow architectural focus means that the Pevsner guides are less broadly useful, and the dryness of their text makes them far less enjoyable to read. Pictorially, too, the Shell guides are far superior.
A Shell Guide On England, the new book by sometime Wallpaper* contributor David Heathcote, offers an excellent and thoroughly researched overview of the history and development of the Shell guides, from their early days right through to the last volume, Nottinghamshire, which saw the light of day as recently as 1984. It's an engaging read in its own right, and though the text is uncomfortably small and densely packed, and the editing could be a little sharper, I'd recommend it to everyone who has caught the (extremely addictive) Shell guide-collecting bug, as well as anyone who wants to discover more about these most appealing of all tourist guides to the British Isles.
Inside the book: Front cover of Cornwall Shell County Guide, 1934
Avenue of trees on an A-road by Maurice Beck, Devon County Guide, 1935, pp.16–17
Title page of his Oxon, 1938, by John Piper, with an image of a scarecrow that acts as a surreal self portrait of the author
Derbyshire, 1935, p.53
Waterfall at High Force, Teesdale (title pages), County Durham, 1980
Waterfall at High Force, Teesdale (title pages), County Durham, 1980
‘These Men Use Shell: Farmers', John Armstrong, 1939 - incorporating a portrait of Jack Beddington, 'who was by all accounts very suave in real life,' says David Heathcote
Burton-on-Trent, Staffordshire, 1978, pp.70–1
‘At the chairmaker's', Bucks, 1937, p.43
Left: Frontispiece, The Lighthouse, Newlyn (1893) by Stanhope Forbes,
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Right: Cornwall title page with Osbert Lancaster cartoon
Cover image, Hampshire, 1937
Image 163, Murray's Buckinghamshire Guide, 1948, p.111
Betjeman, An Oxford University Chest, OUP 1979 reprint, p.30
Ramsgate and St Leonard's, double-page montage,Kent, 1935
-
This Kvadrat tote bag brings together two design luminaries, Raf Simons and Peter Saville
The Kvadrat/Raf Simons tote arrives in Peter Saville’s ‘Technicolour Fleck’ material, and is a symbolic gesture of the pair’s enduring personal relationship and long-running collaboration with the Danish textile house
By Jack Moss Published
-
Where next for Salone del Mobile? Maria Porro on the future of the world’s biggest furniture fair
Ahead of Salone del Mobile 2025 in Milan, we sit down with its president to talk design, data and forging the event’s future in a fast-changing world
By Hugo Macdonald Published
-
‘Fashion & Interiors: A Gendered Affair’ at MoMu unpacks the hierarchy of the home
The Antwerp exhibition interrogates the relationship between fashion, interiors and gender through the concept of ‘gesamtkunstwerk’, a complete work of art. Curator Romy Cockx gives Wallpaper* a tour
By Dal Chodha Published
-
‘Días’ by Spanish photographer Pia Riverola captures a world of many wonders
Pia Riverola presents her new book ‘Días’, a tonal collage of days spent travelling
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
Poetic travel photography books to collect now
Get lost inside our pick of the best new travel photography books – pages to evoke instant wanderlust.
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
Three Belmond destinations celebrated in pictures at Photo London 2024
At Photo London 2024, Belmond presents new ‘As Seen By’ books, as photographers Coco Capitán, Letizia Le Flur and Rosie Marks capture unique images of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, and hotels in Amalfi and Cape Town
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
Assouline’s new Mexico City book to inspire your trip
‘Mexico City’ by Aleph Molinar and Anfisa Vrube is a journey through the cultural landscape, Aztec history, cuisine, architecture and community
By Tianna Williams Published
-
‘Tokyo Jazz Joints’ captures the vanishing world of Japanese jazz kissa culture
New book ‘Tokyo Jazz Joints’ uncovers the ephemeral beauty of Japan's ‘jazz kissa’ – bars and coffee houses devoted to the vinyl or CD experience
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
Sam Youkilis’ ‘Somewhere’ is an ode to the beauty of everyday life across cultures
Photographer Sam Youkilis unveils new book ‘Somewhere 2017 – 2023’, the world as seen through his iPhone camera
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
Cesare Cunaccia's ‘Dolce Vita’ book captures Italy’s infinite passion for life
Experience the dolce vita lifestyle through Assouline’s newly published title
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
‘Hotel Kitsch’ uncovers the whimsical world of adults-only fantasy getaways
‘Hotel Kitsch’ is an A-to-Z guide to sleazy and hopelessly romantic American vacations
By Sofia de la Cruz Published