Phénix Eatery & Bar — Shanghai, China

Dinning room of Phénix Eatery & Bar
(Image credit: Phénix Eatery & Bar - Shanghai)

Opened almost a decade ago, The PuLi Hotel was Shanghai’s first urban resort. Located close to Nanjing road - the city’s main shopping drag - the property is today, among a multitude of luxury accommodation brands that have set up in the dynamic metropolis over the past ten years. That, along with the arrival of a host of international celebrity chefs including Jean Georges and Jason Atherton, means competition to stand out in the culinary crowd is at an all time high.

In answer to dwindling diners, the hotel’s once staid restaurant, Jing’An, has now been given a much-needed refresh by Australian firm Layan - the property’s original designers - that has transformed the dark, dated interiors into a sleek destination. Now called Phénix, the eatery has been divided into two dining rooms, split in the middle by a bar area, which smartly creates a sense of arrival. Taking inspiration from the nearby former French settlement, the design firm has included low-key references to the Art Deco period in Paris, with the understated use of materials such as mother of pearl and rose gold which - lining the rattan covered tables - adds a sense of glamour while staying close to the hotel’s Asian heritage. A ‘cabinet de curiosite’ meanwhile, showcases an eclectic collection of objects that add a touch of eccentricity to the polished space.

The newly devised menu by chef Michael Wilson is modern French. Expect to find comforting classics from roast and confit of duck to steak frites, with the odd Mitteleuropean dish thrown in for good measure. We suggest the expertly presented heirloom tomatoes to start, followed by the whole baby turbot meunière, which coated with seaweed butter and local spices, is once again a subtle reminder of the hotel’s Asian roots.

Property’s original designers - that has transformed the dark, dated interiors into a sleek destination

(Image credit: Phénix Eatery & Bar -Shanghai)

Use of materials such as mother of pearl and rose gold

(Image credit: Phénix Eatery & Bar -Shanghai)

Now called Phénix, the eatery has been divided into two dining rooms, split in the middle by a bar area, which smartly creates a sense of arrival

(Image credit: Phénix Eatery & Bar -Shanghai)

INFORMATION
Website

ADDRESS

1 Changde Rd
Jing'an

VIEW GOOGLE MAPS

Lauren Ho is the Travel Director of Wallpaper*,  roaming the globe, writing extensively about luxury travel, architecture and design for both the magazine and the website. Lauren serves as the European Academy Chair for the World's 50 Best Hotels.

Read more
alila shanghai
China’s Alila Shanghai hotel is a stylish hub of idle tranquillity
chez fifi new york restaurant review
An Upper East Side townhouse is transformed into a chic French bistro
Melbourne Place hotel
Wallpaper* checks in at Melbourne Place: ‘an alchemy of colour, texture and personality’
margaux restaurant paris review
The warmth and comfort of Paris restaurant Margaux: ‘It’s like feasting at grandma’s’
jm cafe white pagoda temple beijing
Enjoy heritage views and contemporary brews at a new Beijing café
Piraña restaurant interiors with moody lighting and warm wood details
London’s Piraña restaurant combines Japanese-Peruvian fusion with lavishly moody surrounds
Latest in Restaurants
the lavery london restaurant review
At The Lavery, Anglo-Italian cooking caters to London’s design obsessive
bar etoile los angeles restaurant
At Bar Etoile, Scandi-chic meets leisurely Los Angeles
calong london restaurant
A buzzy Korean pop-up becomes a permanent fixture in East London
alba london restaurant
New London restaurant Alba is a sun-soaked affair
bar siesta los angeles
At Bar Siesta in Los Angeles, meals linger and moods perk up
the view restaurant lounge new york
New York’s only revolving restaurant is back in action
Latest in Feature
black and white image of kitchen
‘La Cocina’: the kitchen is a chaotic melting pot of contemporary culture in Alonso Ruizpalacios’ new film
lean lui guide to hong kong
A local’s guide to Hong Kong, by photographer Lean Lui
people at watch show
What can we expect from Watches and Wonders 2025?
Perfume Genius Glory album artwork
Inside the visual universe of Perfume Genius
art works
Don’t miss these five artists at Art Basel Hong Kong
best hotels hong kong
Where to stay in Hong Kong