Stay at Nujuma, a forward-facing sanctuary in the Red Sea region

A little under a decade into an ambitious master plan to transform itself from a rarely visited destination into a tourism hotspot, it's impossible not to be in awe at the sheer pace of development in Saudi Arabia.

Known as Saudi Vision 2030, the programme – part of which is to revamp the country socially and culturally – is well underway with a number of so-called giga-projects that are taking tourism to the next level and enticing some of the world’s biggest hotel brands to eagerly sign up. The $62.2 billion development of Riyadh’s historic Diriyah – known as the birthplace of Saudi Arabia – for example, has just launched Bab Samhan, a Luxury Collection Hotel that, housed within a series of low-lying brick buildings, mirrors the architecture of the ancient city.

Elsewhere, The Red Sea, AMAALA, and Thuwal are three destinations that are part of the Red Sea megaproject along Saudi Arabia’s untouched 124-mile west coast. Spanning 28,000 square kilometres and an archipelago of over 90 uninhabited offshore islands, the goal is to open 50 hotels and over 1,000 residential properties by 2030. Already completed, phase one has seen the arrival of an international airport alongside 16 resorts across three islands and two in-land sites. The Red Sea destination itself currently has five hotels open for business, including the recently launched Nujuma, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve.

Tour Nujuma, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

Perched on one of Ummahat’s 22 islands, the resort – a short 30-minute speedboat ride from the mainland – could, at first glance, be mistaken for one in the Maldives, its overwater villas extending into the calm turquoise sea from a circular jetty that is anchored to the main island.

On arrival though, there is an understated sense of place. For starters, the island itself is fringed by rich mangroves that provide a spectacle of wildlife - from sea birds and marine invertebrates, to the endangered halavi guitarfish – right from the resort. Further afield, the archipelago is surrounded by the world’s fourth-largest barrier reef, teeming with colourful sea life including 165 endemic fish.

A programme of diving or snorkelling expeditions, guided mangrove walks, and talks are hosted by Sean the resident naturalist, who has been described by staff members as their local Steve Irwin. When not in the wild examining the island’s flora and fauna, he can be found in the Conservation House, where there is a resident historian and cultural expert, who can answer all your questions about Saudi Arabia, alongside a display of local art, fashion pieces and objects that showcase the country’s craftsmanship.

The resort itself is a beauty to look at, its design – the work of British firm Foster + Partners – featuring clean lines, sandy hues and graceful curves that blend seamlessly into its desert and coastal environment. Each of the 63 villas and the cluster of public spaces on the main island are housed in a sweep of dome-like pods, their curved exteriors, which are bound by textural rope, inspired by the rounded shape of a closed mussel shell. Inside, ribbed arched ceilings serve as a dramatic framework for a layout that includes a spacious living room and dining area, a walk-in mini-bar as well as a bedroom that has been smartly designed to feature amenities, such as the freestanding bath, the wardrobes and the built-in seating to cocoon the central bed, which looks out onto a sprawling terrace, private pool and the azure seas beyond.

Muted tones and tactile natural materials such as timber and stone are embellished with details that highlight Saudi Arabia’s cultural heritage. This includes cushions covered in local textiles, handwoven rugs inspired by Bedouin patterns, a bench that references antique camel saddles, and wood side tables carved with Arabic motifs.

When not sunning yourself on your private terrace, Neyrah Spa takes relaxation to the next level, with its lap pool, hydro facilities and a menu of holistic treatments including guided breath workshops, sound healing therapy, and blissful massages –using AlUla-soured Moringa oil – to the gentle sound of the waves crashing outside.

Elsewhere, Nujuma unfolds to include the all-day dining restaurant, Sita which, like the bazaars it was inspired by, is housed beneath a soaring open-air latticed timber dome that provides both shade and a cool breeze for a Levantine menu of dishes like freshly prepared hummus and warm flatbread that comes straight from the central clay oven.

Sunset is best experienced from Maia, where astrology-focused drinks such as Gemini – a citrus mocktail named after the constellation which can be seen from Riyadh all year round – are made tableside. The perfect precursor to dinner at Tabrah, a seafood restaurant with a Spanish fleck that nods to the generations of fishermen from the Umluj region. If you’re lucky, a romantic table for two can be set just outside on the beach, where come nightfall, a celestial display of stars begins to emerge, aptly illustrating the resort’s name, which means ‘stars’ in Arabic.

Nujuma, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve is located at Red Sea، Ummahat Islands 2-3 48501, Saudi Arabia; ritzcarlton.com