In New York, four days after opening, a playful new restaurant has SoHo abuzz

The Corner Store is a New York restaurant that knows how to have a good time. The first launch in 13 years from Catch Hospitality, whose steakhouses and seafood restaurants can be found from Miami to Los Angeles, the new dining space occupying the old Dos Caminos spot in SoHo, has – in less than a week – become one of the city's hottest openings.

Designed by the Rockwell Group, the interiors take inspiration from old-school New York dining rooms. The candy-striped corner booths, velvet banquettes, and vintage NYC photography designed to please both the TikTok crowd and those feeling the time-gone tingle of nostalgia.

Walk through the 13-seater bar space (heaving on our arrival) to enter one of three dining rooms – including a lush outdoor patio for the summer months. However, it's the lamp-lit curved booths that flank the main dining room that really put you in the mix.

The inventive menu is the work of culinary director Michael Vignola and executive chef Paul Castro (formerly of Catch New York and Nobu) and the remit is simple – NYC classics with a playful twist.

To start, choose cheesy pepperoni pizza rolls, drizzled with a choice of ranch dressing or honey. Dip tortilla chips in an oozy take on spinach and artichoke dip or knock back Dirty Martini oysters, dressed in vodka.

Even the Caesar salad has been given the New York treatment, topped with crumbled everything bagels and croutons constructed from cream cheese.

Leaning into what Catch does best, the entrées are steak-focused – although Lobster frites and grilled branzino offer pescatarian alternatives. Steak frites comes ‘disco’, an elevated rendition of the classic diner-style disco fries, with Allen Brothers skirt steak and hand-cut, triple-blanched French fries drizzled with au poivre and peppercorn aioli. Wagyu French dip with house-baked bread, prime rib, au jus, horseradish, and a dill pickle is a must.

For dessert, a firm favourite is the Samoa cookie sundae. Inspired by classic Girl Scout cookies – coconutty little delights – it's a fun and indulgent pud designed to make you smile. Immune to its charms? An elevated take on the McDonald’s apple pie is a similarly jolly affair.

At the bar, martinis are king. A tableside martini menu boasts classic offerings and the more outlandish tomato or sour cream, served – naturally – with a side of crisps.

The Corner Store knows its audience: New Yorkers looking for impeccable ambience, good food and a story to tell. On lesser menus, nostalgia and quirk are delivered at the expense of quality – not here. With care and ingenuity, the Catch team have recognised that great food doesn't have to be boring. Book while you can.

The Corner Store, 475 West Broadway, New York, NY 100012