Taking flight on the old Orasay site, Dove is Jackson Boxer’s relaunch of his Notting Hill restaurant. The chef announced on Instagram last December that Orasay’s speciality of British seafood had become economically unviable; now, Dove will serve what Boxer calls ‘the things that I want to cook and eat right now.’
The mood: pale and interesting
Orasay’s interiors were only five years old, so Boxer is going for more of a refresh than a full refurb. Eagle-eyed regulars, however, may spot that the Rose Uniacke conical lampshades have been replaced with glass pendants for more of a bistro look. Otherwise, expect the same delicate palate of hand-dyed linens, reclaimed antique French oak and lime-washed walls that echo both the simplicity of the cooking and the quality of raw materials that end up on the plate.
The food: Boxer packs a punch
The emphasis on seafood has been replaced with a focus on the best British ingredients, brightened up with whatever happens to be at its best in Europe, too. That means a mini lasagne of deep-fried Taleggio cheese and Wiltshire truffle to snack on while deciding between the likes of roast chicken with fennel and blood orange or lemon and ricotta dumplings with lobster cream and lime leaf. Flavours are bold but, given the locale, prices are not.
Dove is located at 31 Kensington Park Rd, London W11 2EU; dove.london
Need more inspiration? See our reviews of the best new London restaurants
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