London in the 21st century is the restaurant capital of the world. British chefs vie with the most famous names on the international food scene to secure the primest sites for their new ventures. Here you can find almost any cuisine on the planet, often made with seasonal British ingredients, whether organic meats, sustainably caught fish and regeneratively farmed veg, but the food is only half the story: chefs collaborate with designers to ensure that the surroundings look every bit as enticing as what’s coming out of the kitchen.
Each month, we visit some of the city's buzziest openings to discover the most exciting new menu items and locations across the capital.
February 2025 restaurant openings
Applebee’s
First a fishmonger then a restaurant, Applebee’s has been a fixture of Borough Market since the turn of the century. Now, Jack Applebee, son of founders Joy and Graham, is marking the restaurant’s 25th anniversary by reopening after re-designing the space and revamping the menu.
Describe the mood: Is this Borough or Brixham? Designers A-nrd (recently behind Santiago Lastra’s Fonda) have given shape to a sourcing process that emphasises seasonality and sustainability. Diners see their seafood displayed on a fresh fish counter before being whisked onto a live-fire grill in an open kitchen.
What to order: Dover sole dry-aged in a Himalayan pink-salt chamber to ensure the perfect crispy skin is the star dish, but the fish and chips (made from whatever fish is freshest that day) are equally as impressive.
Why we love it: A family-run business future-proofed for the next quarter of a century.
Applebee’s re-opens on February 13 and is available to book now. It is located at 5 Stoney Street, SE1 9AA; applebeesfish.com
La Môme London
La Môme Cannes
A sun-kissed import from the south of France, where a trio of La Mômes is scattered around Cannes and Monte Carlo. This London satellite arrives at The Berkeley hotel on Knightsbridge which, with its rooftop pool and supercar-clogged forecourt, is the UK’s closest equivalent to Monaco.
The mood: The razzle-dazzle of the Cannes Film Festival and Monte Carlo Rally wrapped up in one fabulous dining room and terrace.
What to order: Franco-Italian dishes such as Black Angus tagliata with truffle and rocket.
Why we love it: A restaurant that is as glamorous as the hotel itself.
La Môme opens on February 7 and is available to book now. It is located at Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL; the-berkeley.co.uk
Shakara
Former Akoko executive chef Ayo Adeyemi is teaming up with MasterChef: The Professionals’ semi-finalist Victor Okunowo to create the menus at this new Marylebone bar and dining room, which is a stylish addition to London’s ever-impressive high-end West African dining scene.
Describe the mood: Red Deer architects are behind some of London’s most distinctive and Instagrammable restaurant interiors such as Lina Stores. Here they have given a contemporary gloss to a West African aesthetic, with modern art supplied by top Lagos gallery Red Door and DJs spinning Afrobeats.
What to order: Native blue lobster with red pepper bisque and tagliatelle embodies Okunowo’s approach of applying West African technique and spicing to top-notch British produce.
Why we love it: More proof that African fine dining is one of London’s coolest cuisines.
Shakara is on soft launch until February 13 and is available to book now. It is located at 66 Baker Street, W1D 7DJ; shakaraldn.com
January 2025 restaurant openings
Don’t Tell Dad
Don’t Tell Dad
Bakery by day, restaurant by night, Don’t Tell Dad is somewhere for Queen’s Park locals to shout about. Pop in for a hazelnut brown butter croissant after a yoga class on Lonsdale Road, then return in the evening for indulgent recipes from former Noble Rot chef Luke Frankie.
The mood: Curated interiors meet creative cooking.
What to order: Oxtail crumpets with a dripping crumb are the ultimate teatime treat.
Why we love it: A neighbourhood restaurant that deserves London-wide fame.
Don’t Tell Dad opens on January 17, but is now available to book. It is located at 10-14 Lonsdale Road, NW6 6RD; donttelldad.co.uk
Read our full restaurant review of Don't Tell Dad
Dove
Former Orasay restaurant
Jackson Boxer announced in December that he was replacing Orasay with Dove. The new restaurant, he says, will serve ‘the things that I want to cook and eat right now.’ There will be less focus on the finest British seafood but the same dedication to sourcing the best native ingredients.
The mood: A Notting Hill restaurant aimed at locals not tourists, Dove practically coos with quiet luxury.
What to order: A mini lasagne of deep-fried Taleggio cheese and Wiltshire truffle is a snack that should be served by the dozen.
Why we love it: Whatever Jackson Boxer wants to eat is what we want to eat.
Dove is open and available to book now. It is located at 1 Kensington Park Road, W11 2EU; orasay.london
Read our full restaurant review of Dove
Himi
Quality casual Japanese dining arrives in Carnaby courtesy of husband-and-wife chefs Tamas Naszai and Tomoko Hasegawa. The couple met while working at Tokimeite in Mayfair before opening their restaurant Roji, serving formal omakase-style tasting menus. Here at Himi, they have taken inspiration from izakayas, the Japanese equivalent of a food-focused pub found throughout Tokyo and Osaka.
Describe the mood: The chef couple have repurposed the interiors of the Greek restaurant Ino with a subtle Japanese aesthetic, emphasising the site’s natural woods and light while keeping the intimate atmosphere of the chef’s counter and tiny, 13-seat dining room.
What to order: Japanese classics of sushi, sashimi, tempura and robata are given creatively contemporary updates: try the hay-smoked fatty tuna handroll. A set lunch menu for around £30 offers a more affordable entry than the à la carte.
Why we love it: An informal alternative to high-end Roji, with the same excellent food.
Himi opens on January 31 and is available to book now. It is located at 4 Newburgh Street, London, W1F 7RF; himi.uk
December 2024 restaurant openings
Row on 5
Row on 5
Jason Atherton completes his quartet of 2024 launches with the flagship restaurant intended to cement his legacy as one of the definitive British chefs of the 21st century. His right-hand man here is Spencer Metzger, former Ritz head chef who won two Michelin stars at Dubai sibling Row on 45 within six months of opening.
The mood: The restaurant channels the bespoke Savile Row theme in everything from high-spec interiors to personal service, with the food delivered by the chefs who made it in an open kitchen within the intimate 28-cover dining room.
What to order: The only choice is between two 15-course tasting menus: one involving meat and seafood, the other vegetarian dishes, and both based on best-of-British ingredients.
Why we love it: A perfectly tailored fit for fans of fan dining.
Row on 5 is open and available to book now (bookings are released one month in advance). It is located at 5 Savile Row, W1S 3PB; rowon5london.com
Read our full review of Row on 5
Osteria Del Mare
Osteria Del Mare
A sibling to Mayfair and Soho Italians Bocconcino, this time on the Strand. A daily selection of fresh fish will be presented on a seafood display before being cooked in an open kitchen by chef Matteo Massafra, who has worked at Six Senses Ibiza and Café Dior.
The mood: The Tuscan coastline around Forte dei Marmi transplanted to a bank conversion in London’s West End, with a moneyed smart set to match.
What to order: Anything involving fish, obviously – octopus in red wine sauce is set to be the signature dish – but pizza is also a good shout.
Why we love it: Good-value glamour a short walk from Covent Garden.
Osteria del Mare is open and available to book now. It is located at 366 Strand, WC2R 0JF, bocconcinorestaurant.co.uk
Read our full review of Osteria Del Mare
Babbo
Babbo
The favourite Italian restaurant of Premier League footballers has shut up shop in Mayfair and moved across town to St John’s Wood. It’s not time for pipe and slippers yet, though: cocktails in the swish bar are just one of Babbo’s many attractions.
The mood: Babbo’s different spaces fit different times of day, from breakfast on the heated terrace to lunchtime pizzette in the lounge and smart dinners in the dining room.
What to order: The cooking is classic all the way (salmon tartare, veal Milanese) but who could resist a slow-cooked lasagne?
Why we love it: Smart all-day drinking and dining without the faff of going into town.
Babbo is open and available to book now. It is located at 29-31 St John's Wood High Street, NW8 7NH, babborestaurant.co.uk
How we choose the new restaurants to recommend
At Wallpaper*, design is always at the forefront. Our top picks for new restaurants all feature thoughtfully curated interiors that elevate the dining experience. And of course, the food must be exceptional too. We’re drawn to inventive menus that both surprise and delight. Each restaurant we’ve recommended has been personally visited by one of our editors. With the privilege of dining at some of the world’s most renowned spots, you can trust our firsthand experience. When we say something’s worth your time, you can be sure it is.
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First a fishmonger then a restaurant, how Applebee’s became a Borough Market stapleIn line with the London seafood restaurant’s 25th anniversary, Applebee’s is reopening with a new menu and a new look courtesy of design studio A-nrd
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