Fine dining is plant-powered at this intimate east London restaurant

In the interminably long Old Street, where a chaotic mix of period terraces vies for attention against glitzy tech towers, Plates cuts through the noise like a breath of fresh air. The restaurant, the enterprise of siblings Kirk (an alumnus of The French Laundry and Restaurant Sat Bains) and Keeley Haworth, excels in reimagining the possibilities of plant-based fine dining through technical innovation and a passion for flavour. Plates stands as a much-needed green escape for the palate.

The mood: cocooning beauty

Plates’ intimate 25-cover dining room offers a tactile, earthy atmosphere. Designed in collaboration with east London-based Design & That, the interiors echo the restaurant’s plant-based philosophy with materials and craftsmanship that are as sustainable as they are beautiful. Lighting is soft, colours muted, and textures natural – only pigments found in nature adorn the space. ‘From the outset, we prioritised working with local craftspeople, using environmentally-friendly materials, and repurposing where possible,’ says Emma Shone-Sanders, designer and founder of the studio.

‘A focal point is the hand-crafted bar surrounding the open kitchen, made from repurposed felled London trees by Bristol-based furniture makers Mythology. It allows guests to experience an immersive chef’s counter, where they can witness Kirk at work and appreciate the artistry that defines the Plates menu,’ she adds. Reclaimed stone in tables, a recycled linen curtain by local makers Hackney Upholstery Studio, and natural plaster by Clayworks with elements like buckwheat and hemp add a tactile depth to the whole of the interior.

Subtle artistic flourishes include a dried seaweed installation, which nods to the plant kingdom’s versatility and beauty, and designer Colin Chetwood’s handmade aluminium flower-shaped lights, casting a warm, botanical glow. In summer, an additional 14 seats on the outdoor terrace bring the Plates experience into the open air.

The food: nature on a plate

Chef Kirk Haworth’s seven-course tasting menu celebrates fruits, vegetables, and plants in their most innovative forms. Each plate champions whole, organic produce sourced from trusted local suppliers while delivering richness in texture and complexity in flavour. Inspired by his journey to manage Lyme disease after his 2016 diagnosis, Haworth’s menu incorporates the healing power of plant-based ingredients that have been integral to his recovery.

Start with slow-cooked leeks, served in a velvety chestnut cream and heightened by jalapeño and gooseberry dressing with frozen verjus – a dish that plays with your senses. The house-laminated sourdough bread that follows, paired with whipped cashew butter, fermented redcurrants, and winter spices, is as addictive as it is satisfying. The mains are equally imaginative. Black bean mole, served with barbecued maitake mushrooms, kimchi, aioli, and puffed rice, is a medley of smoky, spicy, and crunchy elements. Meanwhile, the mung and urad bean lasagna layers of earthy, umami-rich beans with cucumber, celeriac, and a miso and chive sauce are artistry on a plate.

Look forward to the dessert, which breaks free from the typical plant-based reliance on fruit sorbets. Chef Haworth proposes three flawless creations, with the raw cacao gateaux as the crowning jewel. Served with sour cherry, coconut blossom ice cream, African pepper, and toasted macadamia nuts.

Plates is located at 320 Old St, London EC1V 9DR, UK; plates-london.com

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