West Hollywood restaurant Somni is as comforting as it is whimsical

Tucked away in a hidden garden setting on bucolic Nemo Street in West Hollywood, not far from a busy stretch of Santa Monica Boulevard, chef Aitor Zabala has opened an updated version of his beloved Somni. Formerly located in the SLS Hotel on LaCienega, the intimate restaurant earned two Michelin stars for its Catalan-inspired tasting menus, before closing during the pandemic.

Wallpaper* dines at Somni

The mood: artful dining dream sequence

With Mediterranean and Basque roots, Somni 2.0 is a design ‘dream come true’ (the name translates to ‘dream’ in Catalan.) Architect and designer Juli Capella Samper, from Barcelona’s studio Capella Garcia Arquitectura, didn’t want to compete with the restaurant’s first incarnation but rather with a ‘dream of domesticity and eating at home’. The entrance certainly feels like you are entering the patio walkway of a private residence, with the chef waiting in the kitchen to cook up his dream meal. Guests enter onto an enchanting outdoor garden walkway and patio under sycamore trees, next to an indoor curved 14-seat tasting table bar.

Fans of the first Somni will recognise the bull head sculpture by Spanish artist Okuda San Miguel with bright, primary colours that punch up the otherwise serene neutral tones of the main space. For private dining, a side room holding a wine cellar can be booked for up to six. The façade of the house feels more like a small art gallery, where guests are greeted by an illuminated yellow giraffe sculpture leading to tiles that nod to Gaudí and modernist Barcelona. The patio terrace expands this domestic micro-universe with small cane cubicles and sculptural floating clouds above and a fountain inspired by pieces by the Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida.

The food: whimsical Iberian flavours

Chef Aitor Zabala, who has cooked at El Bullí and Saam for José Andrés’ The Bazaar, is half Catalan and half Basque and flexes his traditional culinary roots through 20-plus exquisite bites with an avant-garde and whimsical twist that includes plenty of delicate edible flowers as toppings and dish décor. Zabala likes to play with textures, flavours, and custom artisan ceramic plating while keeping the flavours recognisable and comforting.

The surreal dining experience begins in the garden with finger food such as a crispy and ethereal Parmesan feather and thinly sliced Jamón Ibérico, before you sit down inside at the chef’s counter for larger plates such as dashi with caviar shaped like a fish, mussels in escabeche emulsion, and beets enshrouded in rose petals. Expect a few signature dishes from the old space, such as a beef tartare-filled shiso tempura puff. Several beverage pairing options are available, including a strong selection of wines from Spain and California. You will end your night in the garden, under the trees, for coffee and ‘sweet little things’.

Somni is located at 9045 Nemo St, West Hollywood, CA 90069, United States; somnirestaurant.com

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