Café Monico — London, UK

In an age where historic London landmarks habitually make way for contemporary upgrades, Café Monico is a refreshing amalgamation of the city’s old and new. Inspired by the first Café Monico, which was established in 1877 and was also located in the heart of Theatreland, on London’s Shaftsbury Avenue, the 2016 incarnation is true to the original and the latest offering from the relentless Soho House group.
Collaborating with chef Rowley Leigh — of Le Cafe Anglais fame — the restaurant is a clear step away from the group’s recent expansions of its relaxed Chicken Shop brand and an altogether more sophisticated affair, reminiscent of its more classic venues, like Dean Street Townhouse. Here, French-Italian flavours are brought to the fore in dishes such as mackerel vin blanc, pastas, and Leigh’s signature parmesan custard with anchovy toast, all presented on a menu that also features lighter bites like salumi and multiple variations of the egg.
It’s all served up in a noteworthy room conceptualised by Soho House’s in-house design team who have paired green leather banquettes with oak panelled walls and reclaimed timber herringbone parquet for a classic European brasserie feel. A mezzanine level offers the illusion of a sunken bar and treats diners to a theatrical view of staff artfully concocting tipples like the ‘Café Monico Cobbler’, a mixture of Hendricks gin, rinquinquin and dubonnet. Under the antique glass and brass chandelier — sourced from Amsterdam — and on this particular stretch in the capital, the dramatics couldn’t be more apt.
ADDRESS
39-45 Shaftesbury Avenue
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
In Wales, Michelin-starred Gorse celebrates the country’s abundant larder
Gorse is the first Michelin-starred restaurant in Cardiff, putting Welsh cuisine on the map. We speak with chef and founder Tom Waters about the importance of keeping culinary traditions alive
By Tianna Williams
-
Ludmilla Balkis’ organic, earthy ceramics embody the Basque countryside
The sculptor-ceramicist presents a series inspired by and created from found natural objects in a New York exhibition
By Anna Solomon
-
At this secret NYC hangout, the drinks are strong and the vibes are stronger
For People's bar, Workstead serves up a good time
By Anna Fixsen
-
One Club Row is London’s answer to the Lower East Side
Located at the site of the former hotspot Les Trois Garçons, One Club Row brings back noughties glamour with 19th-century interiors, gourmet bites, and jazz nights
By Ben McCormack
-
Marylebone restaurant Nina turns up the volume on Italian dining
At Nina, don’t expect a view of the Amalfi Coast. Do expect pasta, leopard print and industrial chic
By Sofia de la Cruz
-
Wallpaper* checks in at Treehouse Hotel Manchester: you may not want to leaf
Treehouse Hotel Manchester offers a nature-infused biophilic sanctuary amidst the city’s ever-growing architectural canopy
By Imogen Green
-
Dining at Pyrá feels like a Mediterranean kiss on both cheeks
Designed by House of Dré, this Lonsdale Road addition dishes up an enticing fusion of Greek and Spanish cooking
By Sofia de la Cruz
-
London restaurant Tatar Bunar puts Ukrainian heritage front and centre
Family recipes and contemporary design merge at this new east London restaurant by Ukrainian restaurateurs Anna Andriienko and Alex Cooper
By Ben McCormack
-
Corner Corner may be London's most unique entertainment destination yet
The newly-opened venue combines food, jazz and—yes—urban farming beneath one sprawling roof
By Sofia de la Cruz
-
For a taste of Greece, head to this playful new restaurant in London’s Chelsea
Pachamama Group’s latest venture, Bottarga, dishes up taverna flavours in an edgy bistro-style setting
By Sofia de la Cruz
-
A buzzy Korean pop-up becomes a permanent fixture in East London
Chef Joo Won has turned his Calong pop-up permanent in the arty enclave of Stoke Newington
By Ben McCormack