Ikoyi | Wallpaper

(Image credit: Thea Lovstad)

last updated 19 October 2022

West African cuisine is having its moment in London, thanks to Ikoyi at St James’s Market. Named after a cosmopolitan neighbourhood in Lagos, the restaurant’s vibrant, eclectic menu includes wild Nigerian tiger prawn with Banga bisque; lamb rib with asun relish; and jollof rice with smoked bone marrow. Subtle new Nordic references abound – the caviar is marinated in roasted kelp oil, and dishware is by Danish ceramicists KH Würtz – reflecting head chef and co-owner Jeremy Chan’s previous stint at Noma.

Local firm Studio Ashby has populated the street-level space with bespoke elm tables, modernist seating, earthenware pendant lights, and an ochre banquette, while striking black-and-white terrazzo underfoot. The result is an intimate, contemporary space, best admired from the six-seat bar while sipping an African-inflected cocktail designed by Max and Noel Venning, the brains behind London drinking den, Three Sheets.

Best admired from the six-seat bar while sipping an African-inflected cocktail designed

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1 St James’s Market

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Thea Lovstad

TF Chan is a former editor of Wallpaper* (2020-23), where he was responsible for the monthly print magazine, planning, commissioning, editing and writing long-lead content across all pillars. He also played a leading role in multi-channel editorial franchises, such as Wallpaper’s annual Design Awards, Guest Editor takeovers and Next Generation series. He aims to create world-class, visually-driven content while championing diversity, international representation and social impact. TF joined Wallpaper* as an intern in January 2013, and served as its commissioning editor from 2017-20, winning a 30 under 30 New Talent Award from the Professional Publishers’ Association. Born and raised in Hong Kong, he holds an undergraduate degree in history from Princeton University.

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