Behind the Set: John Lobb A/W 2015
Watch as Paula Gerbase's debut collection as artistic director for the luxury footwear brand steps into life
For her first collection as artistic director of John Lobb, Paula Gerbase sought to retrace its founder’s journey from the Cornish moorlands of his father's farm, to his future as a bespoke London boot maker that still holds his Royal Warrant. Lobb may have made that pilgrimage in 1851, carried solely by his handmade boots, but for A/W 2015 Gerbase teamed up with set designer Shona Heath and Laura Holmes Production to recollect his steps.
Housed within Old Sessions House - an expired London town hall that is soon to become a member’s club - the team set about recreating the scenery, colours and textures of Lobb’s physical expedition. Film footage shot between the St James's flagship store and Cornwall was projected onto four large screens, ingeniously camouflaged by faux sandstone slab backing. The venue’s grand curved windows further served to replicate the journey’s changing light, with Gerbase’s debut collection coming to rest on moss-covered Dartmoor undergrowth.
The 1205 designer chose the venue for both its classic architectural features and the stripped-back quality of its raw, peeling foundations that alluded to the journey that Gerbase had taken herself, refocusing on the house's handmade DNA. Smarter still was the foyer’s sandy granules, which instantly made visitor's conscious of their own footsteps.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
-
ICON 4x4 goes EV, giving their classic Bronco-based restomod an electric twist
The EV Bronco is ICON 4x4’s first foray into electrifying its range of bespoke vintage off-roaders and SUVs
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
‘Dressed to Impress’ captures the vivid world of everyday fashion in the 1950s and 1960s
A new photography book from The Anonymous Project showcases its subjects when they’re dressed for best, posing for events and celebrations unknown
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrast
The Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
By Jack Moss Published