New gold dream: we’re drawn to yellow gold’s powerful primal light

The enticing appeal of yellow gold captivates us as strongly as it did our ancestors 

Split picture of models in gold jewellery
Left, ‘Reef’ ring in 18ct Siam gold and diamonds, £1,750, by Patcharavipa. ‘Helicoid’ earring in 24ct gold plate, £275 per pair, by Olivia Barthe Jewellery. Top, £590, by Jil Sander. Right, earrings in papier-mâché and resin, commission only, by Hélène de Sant Lager. ‘Eye’ gold vermeil blue cabochon bracelet, £239, by Sonia Petroff. Dress, £2,980, by Valentino. Roll-neck, £250; trousers, price on request, by Acne Studios. Shoes, €595, by Pierre Hardy. Photography: Camille Summers-Valli. Watches & Jewellery Director: Caragh McKay. Fashion: Jason Hughes
(Image credit: Camille Summers-Valli)
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While watch and jewellery designers tended to embrace the warm, coppery tones of rose gold in the last decade, the primal power of yellow gold has risen once again. In ancient times, this gleaming earth-born metal was thought to possess mystical powers, with ancient cultures believing it to emit the energy-giving power of the sun.

Bauhaus colour theory, too, recognises the enduring allure of yellow chroma – for Kandinsky, who associated shapes with musical notes, yellow, with its bright nature, was both a middle C on a trumpet and a sharp, uncompromising triangle in form.

For jewellers such as Annelise Michelson, thick loops of golden metal pack a powerful sartorial punch when plaited into a bold cuff, while Misho’s huge pear-drop loop earrings offer a glinting fragility, showcasing a more delicate side to the metal’s tough nature.

Paris sculptor Hélène de Saint Lager, meanwhile, synthetically heightens the textural quality of gold in its raw state by way of her signature papier-mâché and resin alchemy. It's the dawning of a shining new era.

Gold Jewellery

Estruscan-style gold cuffs, £30,600 each, by Van Cleef & Arpels. ‘Carla’ clip (top right) in 18ct Siam gold plate, £150; ‘Sara’ clip (centre left) in 18ct Siam gold plate, with fancy vivid blue diamonds, £420, both by Patcharavipa. ‘L’esprit du Lion’ earrings in 18ct gold, beryls and diamonds, price on request, by Chanel Fine Jewellery. Watches & Jewellery Director: Caragh McKay. Fashion: Jason Hughes

(Image credit: Camille Summers-Valli)

Gold Jewellery

Heritage 1970s pendant in gold (top left), £22,100, by Van Cleef & Arpels. ‘Delilah’ necklace in 18ct gold and diamonds (top right), £63,400, by Boucheron. 18ct gold earrings, circa 1970s, £4,950, by Ilias Lalaounis, from Hancocks. ‘Nougat’ ring in gold, £6,100, by Dior Joaillerie. Watches & Jewellery Director: Caragh McKay. Fashion: Jason Hughes

(Image credit: Camille Summers-Valli)

Gold Jewellery

Left, clockwise from bottom left, ‘Butterfly’ ring in 18ct Siam gold and diamonds, £1,500; ‘Reef’ ring in 18ct Siam gold and diamonds, £1,750; both by Patcharavipa. 18ct gold bracelet, circa 1970, £8,750, by Wolfers, from Hancocks. ‘Dynamic’ bracelet in 24ct gold-plated silver, €290, by Olivia Barthe Jewellery. ‘The Acrobat’ golden armpiece, £250, by Bjørg. ‘Dash’ rings in 18ct gold, from £675 each; 18ct gold band, from £980, both by Sian Evans Jewellery. Top, £250; cardigan (worn underneath), £375, both by Pringle of Scotland. Right, ‘Cyclops’ ring in 18ct gold with peridot, £10,500; ‘Eye’ ring in 18ct gold with orange spinel, £15,900 for set of two, both by Cora Sheibani. Watches & Jewellery Director: Caragh McKay. Fashion: Jason Hughes. As originally featured in the May 2019 issue of Precious Index

(Image credit: Camille Summers-Valli)
Hannah Silver

Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels. 

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