Isabel Bonner’s Brutalist jewellery gets graphic
Isabel Bonner is inspired by Brutalist architecture and modernist design for simple jewellery which stands out

‘There is an abundance of jewellery already out there, so for me it always has to be a little more than just an earring,’ says Isabel Bonner on the pieces she creates, which could be jewellery or objet d’art in their own right. From bases in London and her native New York, Bonner has sought to encapsulate the sculptural modernity which fascinates her in her eponymous jewellery line.
Her pieces combine traditional metals such as sterling silver with more unexpected materials such as exotic and petrified woods from furniture off-cuts, which become statement earrings. In other jewels, she lets simple forms do the talking, with pearl earrings, studs and hoops all redrawn in bold Brutalist-inspired lines. For her latest campaign, she has got personal, inviting friends and family to model her pieces which are a love letter to those close to her.
‘The three-part rings from the first collection which incorporate different types of wood were actually quite difficult to figure out technically and required a lot of troubleshooting,’ she says. ‘Originally I wanted to use horn, but it is difficult to source sustainable, ethical horn that comes in large enough pieces. So the material choice evolved from there. I still wanted something that felt soft, natural, almost gooey, to sit against the cold, highly polished silver.’ The limited edition and one-of-a-kind pieces were created with a heavy press, the wood carved by hand using saws and grinders.
‘Collection II plays with the idea of negative space, balance and bold simplicity,’ Bonner says of her Brutalist-inspired jewels. ‘For example, the pairing of a boxy shape with the softness of a pearl is intended to feel both minimalist and entirely feminine. From the outset, the collection was designed to be wearable and easily integrate into different peoples' wardrobes.’ Bonner describes her aesthetic as refined, elegant and clean. ‘It's a kind of simple strength and straightforwardness. I want my woman to convey that relaxed, chic feeling that comes from feeling strong and comfortable, not overly done up or fussed over.’
INFORMATION
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys travelling, visiting artists' studios and viewing exhibitions around the world, and has interviewed artists and designers including Maggi Hambling, William Kentridge, Jonathan Anderson, Chantal Joffe, Lubaina Himid, Tilda Swinton and Mickalene Thomas.
-
Dr. Macrene has the secret to looking younger, no needles required
The Find is a beauty dispatch revealing the names, brands and treatments circulating quietly among industry insiders. In this first edition, we speak to the New York dermatologist transforming the skin of the city's most famous faces.
-
The latest portable light from Bocci is a luminous marvel
Bocci debuts the 118p – a portable lamp with feather-like impressions that are actually 'stretch marks' formed during the glass-making process
-
Peek inside Uchronia’s celadon green suite at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park
The Paris-based studio teamed up with Pantone to transform a suite at the storied hotel into an aquatic dreamscape. Here’s how to check in