Cartier creates a series of vitrines telling the tale of the Tank watch

A vitrine celebrating the first ever Cartier 'Tank' watch, launched in 1917
A vitrine celebrating the first ever Cartier 'Tank' watch, launched in 1917. It was inspired by the design of the armoured First World War tank.
(Image credit: Tim Griffiths for Cartier)

Cartier always does things, well, Cartier style, and it's a style we most definitely like. Take the brand's show-stopping window display at this year's SIHH watch fair in Geneva: made up of a series of exquisitely designed miniature box rooms, it retold the history of one of the world's best-loved watch designs - the Cartier Tank - in a most compelling way indeed.

Complete with mini lighting rigs and carefully chosen props, these diminutive Cartier set designs were so beautifully realised that when we heard some of them were coming to a venue near us, we just had to ask for an exclusive view. And last week we got our chance as Cartier brought the exhibition to London for the worldwide launch of the Tank Anglaise at the Orangery in Kensington, London.

The Tank watch, created in 1917 at the height of the Great War, makes for a perfect visual retelling. It was one of the first major wristwatch designs - as avant garde as they come for a world more used to pocket watches. Even more intriguing is the fact that its shape is actually derived from an armoured tank: inspired by a top-view sketch of the war machine, Louis Cartier mirrored its utilitarian form and clean, definite lines to produce his little machine for the wrist.

The prototype was presented to an American commander as a thank-you gift, just after the war ended. Subsequent models, such as the Tank Folle, Tank Cintrée, Tank Chinoise, are too numerous to mention, as are aficionados of the watch, who have included Gary Cooper, Ingrid Bergman, Alain Delon and Andy Warhol. Needless to say, its cross-century appeal nods to its credentials as a timeless twentieth-century design.

The new addition to the line - the Tank Anglaise - represents Cartier's strong presence in London since the second World War, and makes up a triumvirate of city-inspired Tanks, including 1980's New York-homage, the Tank Américaine, and the 1996 Tank Française, celebrating the brand's Paris home.

This paper pagoda installation celebrates 1922’s 'Tank' Chinoise design

This paper pagoda installation celebrates 1922’s 'Tank' Chinoise design

(Image credit: Tim Griffiths for Cartier)

Tank à Guichets ‘jumping hour’ wristwatch, 1928.

Tank à Guichets ‘jumping hour’ wristwatch, 1928.

(Image credit: N Welsh. Collection Cartier © Cartier)

By 1928, jumping hour ‘dial-less’ designs - where the hour and minutes are displayed in tiny apertures on a solid base - nodded to a pervading Bauhaus sensibility.

By 1928, jumping hour ‘dial-less’ designs - where the hour and minutes are displayed in tiny apertures on a solid base - nodded to a pervading Bauhaus sensibility.

(Image credit: Tim Griffiths for Cartier)

A 1935 sketch for a 'Tank Cintrée' wristwatch, created for Princess Mdivani, wife of Louis Van Allen.

A 1935 sketch for a 'Tank Cintrée' wristwatch, created for Princess Mdivani, wife of Louis Van Allen. Cartier New York Archives 

(Image credit: © Cartier)

Cartier designed the Basculante reversible sliding Tank watch, with pivoting dial, in the 1930s.

Cartier designed the Basculante reversible sliding Tank watch, with pivoting dial, in the 1930s. 

(Image credit: Tim Griffiths for Cartier)

Stained and polished reversible Basculante Tank watch from 1936.

Stained and polished reversible Basculante Tank watch from 1936.

(Image credit: N Welsh. Collection Cartier © Cartier)

Gary Cooper wears his Tank Basculante in 1940.

Gary Cooper wears his Tank Basculante in 1940. 

(Image credit: Courtesy of Maria Cooper Janis © Rue des Archives/RDA)

By 1944, the Cartier Tank was the preferred accessory with male film stars of the Golden Age of Hollywood.

By 1944, the Cartier Tank was the preferred accessory with male film stars of the Golden Age of Hollywood.

(Image credit: Tim Griffiths for Cartier)

Tank Oblique wristwatch, 1963.

Tank Oblique wristwatch, 1963.

(Image credit: N Welsh. Collection Cartier © Cartier)

Ingrid Bergman wearing her Tank in Los Angeles, 1967. Courtesy of the Estate of Ingrid Bergman Bill Ray.

Ingrid Bergman wearing her Tank in Los Angeles, 1967. 

(Image credit: Courtesy of the Estate of Ingrid Bergman Bill Ray. © Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images)

While filming 'Un Flic', Alain Delon realised he shared the same passion for the Tank Arrondie watch as the director, Jean-Pierre Melville. 1972.

While filming 'Un Flic', Alain Delon realised he shared the same passion for the Tank Arrondie watch as the director, Jean-Pierre Melville. 1972. 

(Image credit: Courtesy of Alain Delon © Studio Canal/Collection Sunset Boulevard)

1977’s Tank Must de Cartier wristwatch reflected the colour-focused designs of the time.

1977’s Tank Must de Cartier wristwatch reflected the colour-focused designs of the time.

(Image credit: Tim Griffiths for Cartier)

1977 Tank Must de Cartier wristwatch with satined and polished vermilion case and polished vermilion brancards

1977 Tank Must de Cartier wristwatch with satined and polished vermilion case and polished vermilion brancards

(Image credit: press)

The Tank Américaine was launched in the 1980s, as a homage to Cartier’s links with New York.

The Tank Américaine was launched in the 1980s, as a homage to Cartier’s links with New York.

(Image credit: Tim Griffiths for Cartier)

In 2009, the Tank Americaine Flying Tourbillon gains the Geneva Seal – the highest accolade for technical excellence in the Swiss watch industry.

In 2009, the Tank Americaine Flying Tourbillon gains the Geneva Seal – the highest accolade for technical excellence in the Swiss watch industry. 

(Image credit: Tim Griffiths for Cartier)

This month the Tank Anglaise, the latest incarnation of the legendary Cartier watch, is launched, celebrating the brand’s long links with London.

This month the Tank Anglaise, the latest incarnation of the legendary Cartier watch, is launched, celebrating the brand’s long links with London. 

(Image credit: Tim Griffiths for Cartier)

Tank Américaine, 1993 model.

Tank Américaine, 1993 model.

(Image credit: N Welsh. Collection Cartier © Cartier)

A 1994 sketch of the Tank watch by couturier Jean-Charles de Castelbajac.

A 1994 sketch of the Tank watch by couturier Jean-Charles de Castelbajac.

(Image credit: © JC de Castelbajac, 2011, ProLitteris, Zurich)

The Tank Française, a celebration of Cartier’s home city of Paris, was launched in 1996.

The Tank Française, a celebration of Cartier’s home city of Paris, was launched in 1996.

(Image credit: Tim Griffiths for Cartier)

A Tank Française model from the 1990s.

A Tank Française model from the 1990s.

(Image credit: N Welsh. Collection Cartier © Cartier)

The 2012 Cartier Tank Anglaise in yellow gold

The 2012 Cartier Tank Anglaise in yellow gold

(Image credit: N Welsh. Collection Cartier © Cartier)