Ceramics and synthetic stones infiltrate the fine jewellery realm
Fine jewellery has taken a cue from the watch world by introducing high-tech manufactured materials alongside traditional precious metals and gemstones. The idea isn't novel: hard-wearing ceramics have been used to strengthen watch cases for decades now, with Apple recently blending ceramic powder into gold for the Apple Watch edition. But jewellers are creating a new luxury code by employing ceramic as a glossy foil to white diamonds, or turning to man-made stones set in natural golds for accessible, wearable jewels.
Milanese jewellery house Pomellato uses synthetic rubies and sapphires in hues of cadmium, orange or magenta for the Rouge Passion collection. Backed by mother of pearl, the cabochons have a creamy lustre and are set on bold cocktail rings, drop studs and pendant necklaces in 9 carat rose gold. These playful jewels have seen a strong response - the line is now one of Pomellato's bestsellers. CEO Andrea Morante points out, 'Using synthetic stones is pretty daring - no brand that is over 100-years-old could do that. But Pomellato's founder Pino Rabolini said that jewellery has to be something for every day.'
Older maisons are also experimenting. Earlier this year Chanel released the Cosmique de Chanel collection as a contemporary take on one of the house's most enduring motifs, the comet. This time, brilliant-cut diamond stars shoot across polished monochrome ceramics on chunky rings, pendant necklaces and earrings - a graphic update in tune with Chanel's philosophy of mixing high and low. Boucheron's relaunched Quatre White Edition collection of rings and earrings stacks layers of white ceramic between bands of yellow, white and pink golds and pavé diamonds. The company spent two years developing Hyceramic: more malleable than other ceramics, this sculptable alloy has been cut by hand into a textured band that resembles the cobblestones lining the Place Vendôme in Paris. A high-tech tribute to the home of fine jewellery, where synthetics have clearly found their own unique niche.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
An Indian mud house - and more, on Sketch Design Studio's natural material wonders
Sketch Design Studio in Rajasthan, India does wonders with the simplest ingredients
By Vaishnavi Nayel Talawadekar Published
-
Experience this Singapore apartment’s Zen-like qualities and cocooning urban haven
Welcome to Singapore apartment The Rasidence, a spacious, Zen-like interior by Right Angle Studio
By Daven Wu Published
-
The Park: step inside Jeremy King's mid-century diner
One of several 2024 openings from restauranteur, Jeremy King, food critic Ben McCormack books in at The Park
By Ben McCormack Published
-
What happens when a Chanel watch becomes a sound machine?
Meet the Chanel Première Sound – an adaptable necklace with a watch and removable earphones
By Caragh McKay Published
-
Chanel shows its sporting colours with a bold high jewellery collection
Chanel's high jewellery collection is inspired by its founder’s athletic aesthetic
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Boucheron’s ‘Quatre’ collection multiplies into a series of eye-catching fine jewellery numbers
Boucheron marks the 20th anniversary of the ‘Quatre’ collection in style
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Chaumet, Cartier and Chanel up their high jewellery watch game for 2024
In 2024's high jewellery watch designs, performance tech and centuries-old techniques combine to brilliant effect
By Caragh McKay Published
-
Skeletonised watches are making a dazzling return in 2024
Skeletonised watches return, once again opening up their dials, letting us enjoy mechanical watchmaking at its intricate finest
By Thor Svaboe Published
-
Dark watches show it’s time to embrace an inky palette
Discover new dark watches from brands including Audemars Piguet, Omega, Chanel and Tudor
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Year in review: top 10 watch and jewellery stories of 2023, as picked by Wallpaper’s Hannah Silver
Silver’s top 10 watch and jewellery stories of 2023 span cool horological collaborations, sculptural forms, and cutlery as bracelets
By Hannah Silver Published
-
The odd couple: Chanel and Pomellato play with asymmetry in jewellery
Two jewellery houses, Chanel and Pomellato, take a new turn, toying with asymmetry to create organically opulent pieces
By Caragh McKay Published