The distinctive silhouette of Jean Nouvel’s 53W53 tower – which is soon to be the new residence and home studio for Anna Hu’s eponymous jewellery brand – is already inspiring the New York-based jeweller.
Hu has just unveiled the Sky Tower Jadeite necklace in titanium, which translates the tower’s structural core into a geometric pattern of triangles which curve around the neck. ‘Titanium not only interprets the shiny exterior of the building, but also provides more flexibility in terms of coloring,’ explains Hu. ‘We can anodise titanium and get interesting colours – for example, the green colour shows off the beautiful imperial jadeite in the center.’
The resilient nature of titanium presented a host of challenges; as it can’t be soldered, stone setting proved laborious: ‘The casting of it would require industrial capability due to the extremely high fusion temperature. The prototype has to be done by CAD (computer aided design), before it is cast in titanium. I’m very grateful to have this exceptional French atelier who works with me and is capable of making this happen.’
The necklace links Western art with Eastern culture, pairing the contemporary lines of the core with the exceptional imperial jadeite at its centre. ‘It is the ultimate Chinese culture representation with its auspicious animal carving,’ says Hu. Despite its size, wearability is at the epicentre of her design, and the jadeite pendant can be detached and worn as a brooch. Like the necklace itself, its shape – which references the shields of the ancient Chinese Royal Army and the symbolic protection they offered – is rife in cultural references.
Comfort is also a key factor in the wearing of the necklace: ‘I work with my atelier to make sure the necklace is light enough on the neck,’ adds Hu. ‘The curves of the necklace must meet the organic lines from neck to shoulder of the wearer so that it can be worn comfortably. Functionality and aesthetics can harmoniously co-exist.’
INFORMATION
-
The Living Places experiment: how can architecture foster future wellbeing?Research initiative Living Places Copenhagen tests ideas around internal comfort and sustainable architecture standards to push the envelope on how contemporary homes and cities can be designed with wellness at their heart
-
Turin’s Museo Egizio gets an OMA makeover for its bicentenaryThe Gallery of the Kings at Turin’s Museo Egizio has been inaugurated after being remodelled by OMA, in collaboration with Andrea Tabocchini Architecture
-
Calico Wallpaper founders Nick and Rachel Cope set up studio and home in Upstate New YorkHaving put down firm roots in the Upper Hudson Valley since the pandemic, the Calico Wallpaper duo is developing new collections inspired by this bucolic setting
-
Art takes London: Tiffany & Co, Damien Hirst and artists take over Selfridges' windowsFour British contemporary artists celebrate Tiffany & Co's pioneering history with a series of storied window displays
-
Late summer jewels: what to wear at Golden HourLate summer signals a jewellery style-shift. These independent designers have got it covered
-
All smiles: How a grillz jewellery making class in London became an international hitWhat started as a passion project quickly exploded in popularity. We get the story behind the grillz-making workshop at Cockpit London
-
Emerging jewellery designers to get to knowThese independent, new and emerging jewellery designers and brands from New York to Paris are firmly on our radar
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal piecesA host of jewellers give us a peek at the jewellery which brings them joy and solace
-
Playing it cool: pearls are having a momentWe've been deep-diving into boutiques around the world to find the very best calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. It seems jewellers have been busy rethinking pearls, with contemporary (and often affordable) results
-
Eternity rings for the modern coupleEternity rings, whether sleekly minimalist or sprinkled in diamonds, can be a chic and contemporary love token
-
Alternative engagement rings with an edgeAs the sales of engagement rings sky-rocket during lockdown, enjoy our off-kilter curation of edgy and unconventional engagement rings
