London-based jewellery designer Jessie Thomas brings a chic modernity to traditional silhouettes with pieces that celebrate quirks, from unexpected stone settings to delectable clusters of diamonds.
Her new collection encompasses undulating forms of gold and diamonds, designed to be worn in new ways, whether resting on the collarbone or coiling their way up the ear.
‘This collection is an extension of various stylistic elements found in previous pieces,’ Thomas tells us. ‘Whereas before I’d use a single row of stones in an organic shape, now the stones are multiplied and the shapes stronger and more abstract. Pieces are larger than before, but I’ve tried to maintain a feel of simplicity and timelessness – nothing that could be perceived as too trend-led but which still hopefully feels modern. I’m still working with sculptural forms, developed in this collection with the ear cuffs, which curve up and around the ear.’
In these new pieces, jewellery has been supersized, with shapes drawn in larger proportions and chains reassuringly heavyweight. ‘There are fewer layering pieces,’ adds Thomas. ‘I liked the idea that one cuff or one necklace would be the showpiece. I’ve also used a lot more white gold. I think if you’re working with large diamonds, it’s the best metal to show them off. I love yellow gold but sometimes it can distract from the stone when you don't want it to. Other than that, the big focus is on using multiple diamonds in one piece and on one surface. I didn’t want it to look too traditional or flashy, so for some pieces my setter pin set the stones flush into the metal, where I think they look like droplets of water.’
This new direction prompted a rethink in the engineering of the jewels, with hidden hinging and unseen clasps not distracting from the fluid loops of precious metal.
‘Bigger pieces also need to anchor properly, I’m not a fan of jewellery that looks good but then is a pain to wear. Rings need to be comfortable, and earrings need to feel light and wearable, whilst also sitting well.’
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