There’s hidden meanings pinned to Lin Cheung’s carved brooches
‘It’s an intended as a throwaway remark’ says British jeweller and lecturer Lin Cheung of ‘It’s a Jewellery Thing’ – the name of her latest exhibition at east London’s Gallery SO. Cheung is known for her reinterpretation of traditional jewellery forms, such as lockets and pearl necklaces, and her Delayed Reactions, a series of carved brooches presented as part of her latest exhibition, is particularly on point.
‘The series reflects the mixed emotions I feel about current affairs,’ Cheung explains of the brooches. She has modelled the pieces on political statement pins – those ubiquitous plastic badges seen attached to backpacks or lapels to convey political or cultural messages.
They are imagined in a series of eclectic and unexpected semi-precious materials and stones, including marble, howlite (which is often dyed to resemble turqouise), rock crystal and pink opal. A rose quartz brooch is named Rose Tinted. A rock crystal design, which resembles a circle of smashed glass, is titled Troubled Times.
Cheung also uses fabricated materials including Corian and howlite, and stripes of glittery nail varnish to play with viewer perception. This trickery is the jeweller’s way of commenting on today’s political climate.
Elsewhere, a Lapis lazuli brooch, with a sad smiley face formed from gold stars, is her comment on Britain’s referendum.
The carved stone brooches, Cheung says, presented a slow, unpredictable way of working – in direct contrast, of course, to the throwaway pin badges which they reflect. They naturally muted palette of her chosen materials, in direct contrast to the typical graphic design of slogan pins, also held a particular attraction.
'Delayed Reactions - Rose Tinted' brooch in carved rose quartz and 18ct gold, by Lin Cheung
'Delayed Reactions - Nail Your Colours – Green, White, Violet' brooch in rock crystal, nail varnish and 18ct gold
'Delayed Reactions - Troubled Times' brooch in rock crystal and 18ct yellow gold, by Lin Cheung
'Delayed Reactions - Evasive' two-sided brooch in Belgian black marble, howlite and 14ct gold, by Lin Cheung
'Delayed Reactions - Slightly Sad' brooch in lapis lazuli and 18ct gold, by Lin Cheung
'Delayed Reactions - Crystal Clear' brooch in rock crystal and 18ct gold, by Lin Cheung
INFORMATION
’Lin Cheung: It’s a Jewellery Thing’ is on view until 25 March. For more information, visit the Gallery SO website and the Lin Cheung website
ADDRESS
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Gallery SO
92 Brick Lane
London E1 6RL
Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys travelling, visiting artists' studios and viewing exhibitions around the world, and has interviewed artists and designers including Maggi Hambling, William Kentridge, Jonathan Anderson, Chantal Joffe, Lubaina Himid, Tilda Swinton and Mickalene Thomas.
-
Remembering Frank Gehry, a titan of architecture and a brilliant human beingLong-time Wallpaper* contributor Michael Webb reflects on the legacy of the Los Angeles architect, who died today at age 96
-
Lexus finally confirms the name of its all-electric LFA Concept supercarStill designated a design study, the Lexus LFA Concept should be the successor to the most unlikely of all 20th-century supercars
-
King of cashmere Brunello Cucinelli on his new biographical docu-drama: ‘This is my testimony’Directed by Cinema Paradiso’s Giuseppe Tornatore, ‘Brunello: the Gracious Visionary’ premiered in cinematic fashion at Rome’s Cinecittà studios last night, charting the meteoric rise of the deep-thinking Italian designer
-
Out of office: The Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekThe rain is falling, the nights are closing in, and it’s still a bit too early to get excited for Christmas, but this week, the Wallpaper* team brought warmth to the gloom with cosy interiors, good books, and a Hebridean dram
-
Out of office: The Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekThis week, the Wallpaper* editors curated a diverse mix of experiences, from meeting diamond entrepreneurs and exploring perfume exhibitions to indulging in the the spectacle of a Middle Eastern Christmas
-
Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekA week in the life of the Wallpaper* team was filled with exquisite jewellery, spellbinding art, and lots (and lots) of good food
-
Edinburgh Art Festival 2023: from bog dancing to binge drinkingWhat to see at Edinburgh Art Festival 2023, championing women and queer artists, whether exploring Scottish bogland on film or casting hedonism in ceramic
-
Last chance to see: Devon Turnbull’s ‘HiFi Listening Room Dream No. 1’ at Lisson Gallery, LondonDevon Turnbull/OJAS’ handmade sound system matches minimalist aesthetics with a profound audiophonic experience – he tells us more
-
Hospital Rooms and Hauser & Wirth unite for a sensorial London exhibition and auctionHospital Rooms and Hauser & Wirth are working together to raise money for arts and mental health charities
-
‘These Americans’: Will Vogt documents the USA’s rich at playWill Vogt’s photo book ‘These Americans’ is a deep dive into a world of privilege and excess, spanning 1969 to 1996
-
Brian Eno extends his ambient realms with these environment-altering sculpturesBrian Eno exhibits his new light box sculptures in London, alongside a unique speaker and iconic works by the late American light artist Dan Flavin