There’s hidden meanings pinned to Lin Cheung’s carved brooches

‘It’s an intended as a throwaway remark’ says British jeweller and lecturer Lin Cheung of ‘It’s a Jewellery Thing’ – the name of her latest exhibition at east London’s Gallery SO. Cheung is known for her reinterpretation of traditional jewellery forms, such as lockets and pearl necklaces, and her Delayed Reactions, a series of carved brooches presented as part of her latest exhibition, is particularly on point.
‘The series reflects the mixed emotions I feel about current affairs,’ Cheung explains of the brooches. She has modelled the pieces on political statement pins – those ubiquitous plastic badges seen attached to backpacks or lapels to convey political or cultural messages.
They are imagined in a series of eclectic and unexpected semi-precious materials and stones, including marble, howlite (which is often dyed to resemble turqouise), rock crystal and pink opal. A rose quartz brooch is named Rose Tinted. A rock crystal design, which resembles a circle of smashed glass, is titled Troubled Times.
Cheung also uses fabricated materials including Corian and howlite, and stripes of glittery nail varnish to play with viewer perception. This trickery is the jeweller’s way of commenting on today’s political climate.
Elsewhere, a Lapis lazuli brooch, with a sad smiley face formed from gold stars, is her comment on Britain’s referendum.
The carved stone brooches, Cheung says, presented a slow, unpredictable way of working – in direct contrast, of course, to the throwaway pin badges which they reflect. They naturally muted palette of her chosen materials, in direct contrast to the typical graphic design of slogan pins, also held a particular attraction.
'Delayed Reactions - Rose Tinted' brooch in carved rose quartz and 18ct gold, by Lin Cheung
'Delayed Reactions - Nail Your Colours – Green, White, Violet' brooch in rock crystal, nail varnish and 18ct gold
'Delayed Reactions - Troubled Times' brooch in rock crystal and 18ct yellow gold, by Lin Cheung
'Delayed Reactions - Evasive' two-sided brooch in Belgian black marble, howlite and 14ct gold, by Lin Cheung
'Delayed Reactions - Slightly Sad' brooch in lapis lazuli and 18ct gold, by Lin Cheung
'Delayed Reactions - Crystal Clear' brooch in rock crystal and 18ct gold, by Lin Cheung
INFORMATION
’Lin Cheung: It’s a Jewellery Thing’ is on view until 25 March. For more information, visit the Gallery SO website and the Lin Cheung website
ADDRESS
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Gallery SO
92 Brick Lane
London E1 6RL
Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.
-
Daniel Arsham’s new monograph collates the works of the auto-obsessed American artist
‘Arsham Motorsport’ is two volumes of inspiration, process and work, charting artist Daniel Arsham’s oeuvre inspired by the icons and forms of the automotive industry
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Hollywood Forever's new ‘vertical mausoleum’ is the tallest in the US
The Gower Mausoleum is not only an innovative solution for housing the deceased in a crowded urban centre; it is also reframing the way that we view cemeteries
By Anna Solomon Published
-
Teenage Engineering celebrate ten years of the Pocket Operator synth series with £49 model
TE’s cult series of pocketable synths, beat machines, sequencers and samplers celebrates its tenth decade with a new microsite and competition
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Edinburgh Art Festival 2023: from bog dancing to binge drinking
What to see at Edinburgh Art Festival 2023, championing women and queer artists, whether exploring Scottish bogland on film or casting hedonism in ceramic
By Amah-Rose Abrams Published
-
Last chance to see: Devon Turnbull’s ‘HiFi Listening Room Dream No. 1’ at Lisson Gallery, London
Devon Turnbull/OJAS’ handmade sound system matches minimalist aesthetics with a profound audiophonic experience – he tells us more
By Jorinde Croese Published
-
Hospital Rooms and Hauser & Wirth unite for a sensorial London exhibition and auction
Hospital Rooms and Hauser & Wirth are working together to raise money for arts and mental health charities
By Hannah Silver Published
-
‘These Americans’: Will Vogt documents the USA’s rich at play
Will Vogt’s photo book ‘These Americans’ is a deep dive into a world of privilege and excess, spanning 1969 to 1996
By Sophie Gladstone Published
-
Brian Eno extends his ambient realms with these environment-altering sculptures
Brian Eno exhibits his new light box sculptures in London, alongside a unique speaker and iconic works by the late American light artist Dan Flavin
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Asim Waqif creates dense bamboo display at the Hayward in London
The Bagri Foundation Commission, Asim Waqif’s वेणु [Venu], opens at the Hayward Gallery in London
By Cleo Roberts-Komireddi Published
-
Forrest Myers is off the wall at Catskill Art Space this summer
Forrest ‘Frosty’ Myers makes his mark at Catskill Art Space, NY, celebrating 50 years of his monumental Manhattan installation, The Wall
By Pei-Ru Keh Published
-
Jim McDowell, aka ‘the Black Potter’, on the fire behind his face jugs
A former coal miner, Jim McDowell defied the odds to set up his workshop and keep a historic form of American pottery alive
By Aruna D’Souza Published