Reflecting on the 'Savage Beauty' exhibition at London’s V&A, the London jeweller and long-term Alexander McQueen collaborator tells us about his thinking behind the updated 'Quill' collection and a possible new fashion collaboration...
Wallpaper*: How do you feel, as a jeweller, about the part you have played in the success of 'Savage Beauty'?
Shaun Leane: There’s a sadness that the exhibition has ended, as it's such a large part of my history, but what remains is an overwhelming gratitude and pride. 'Savage Beauty' allowed me to revisit my work with Lee [Alexander McQueen] and remember the wonderful journey we travelled on together. Each piece I created was a landmark in my career and our friendship.
Tell us about how McQueen’s 'Overlook' A/W 1999–2000 collection inspired your 'Quill' series, which you designed especially for the exhibition.
The 'Quill' collection came about after I selected pieces from my archive for 'Savage Beauty'. Just doing that inspired us – my studio and me – to make a collection in honour of the works we created with Lee. I kept coming back to the coiled corset from the 'Overlook' because I liked the structure of the repetition of fine lines which created an overwhelming, almost armour-like, piece of body adornment; as though the delicate detailing was creating an overall strength.
The new additions to 'Quill' have a more sultry, night-time feel…
'Savage Beauty' rejuvenated a great feeling in us to revisit those early days and, for autumn, add an evening sophistication to this collection. The warm colour of rose gold, which has been pavé set with black spinel, adds glamour.
When you worked with McQueen, the materials that you used as a jeweller were cleverly intertwined with his overall design vision.
Working with Lee gave me a platform where I could think about other materials such as feathers, pheasant claws, porcupine quills and bone. Lee took me out of my comfort zone of working with just gold and precious stones and made me believe if you have a skill to craft you can apply it to any medium and you can create the beautiful.
Any other fashion collaborations we should know about?
Actually, we are in talks with a designer, but it would not be in the same way as I worked with McQueen. We have evolved as a house and our approach to our collaborations is to create a unique experience with each partner, so it would be very interesting to see the body of works we might create today.
'[Alexander McQueen] took me out of my comfort zone of working with just gold and precious stones and made me believe if you have a skill to craft you can apply it to any medium and you can create the beautiful,' explains Leane
''Savage Beauty' rejuvenated a great feeling in us to revisit those early days and, for autumn, add an evening sophistication to this collection,' he says. Pictured: rose gold 'Quill' crossover ring with black spinel
'The 'Quill' collection came about after I selected pieces from my archive for 'Savage Beauty'. Just doing that inspired us – my studio and me – to make a collection in honour of the works we created with Lee.' Pictured: rose gold 'Quill' ring with black spinel
Alexander McQueen designs continue to inspire the jeweller.
Rose gold and black spinel 'Quill' earrings
-
A revamped Edinburgh apartment combines Californian-style modernism with modern craftArcher + Braun have transformed an apartment in a historic house with finely tuned contemporary additions and sympathetic attention to detail
-
Formafantasma’s biodiversity-boosting installation in a Perrier Jouët vineyard is cross-pollination at its bestFormafantasma and Perrier Jouët unveil the first project in their ‘Cohabitare’ initiative, ‘not only a work of art but also a contribution to the ecosystem’
-
Gingerbread City: architects sculpt London out of the season's favourite treatUntil December 29 in Chelsea, see London brought to life in a seasonal-appropriate medium by leading architects and designers
-
Art takes London: Tiffany & Co, Damien Hirst and artists take over Selfridges' windowsFour British contemporary artists celebrate Tiffany & Co's pioneering history with a series of storied window displays
-
Late summer jewels: what to wear at Golden HourLate summer signals a jewellery style-shift. These independent designers have got it covered
-
All smiles: How a grillz jewellery making class in London became an international hitWhat started as a passion project quickly exploded in popularity. We get the story behind the grillz-making workshop at Cockpit London
-
Emerging jewellery designers to get to knowThese independent, new and emerging jewellery designers and brands from New York to Paris are firmly on our radar
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal piecesA host of jewellers give us a peek at the jewellery which brings them joy and solace
-
Playing it cool: pearls are having a momentWe've been deep-diving into boutiques around the world to find the very best calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. It seems jewellers have been busy rethinking pearls, with contemporary (and often affordable) results
-
Eternity rings for the modern coupleEternity rings, whether sleekly minimalist or sprinkled in diamonds, can be a chic and contemporary love token
-
Alternative engagement rings with an edgeAs the sales of engagement rings sky-rocket during lockdown, enjoy our off-kilter curation of edgy and unconventional engagement rings
